LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF 
CALIFORNIA 

SAN  DIEGO 


PIANOS 


LEAD  THE   WORLD! 

OVER  15,000 
IN   USE. 


FREEBORN  C.  SMITH,    SUCCESSOR  TO    WM.  B.  BRADBURY. 


The  peculiar  charm  of  th 
nlment,  owing  to  its  svmpatlu 
VST"  From  personal  acqua 
fullest  confidence  of  the  publ 
they  give  entire  satisfaction. 
Mrs.  R.  B.  Hayes,  Wash. 
Mrs.  U.  S.  Grant,  Wash. 
Bish.  M.  Simpson,  Phila. 
"     E.  R.  Ames,  Balto. 
"     Jesse  T.  Peck,  Syra- 
cuse. 
"     Wm.L.  Harris,  N.Y. 
City. 
"  Gilbert  Haven,  Atlanta 
"    R.  S.  Foster,  Boston. 
"    J.  W.  Wiley,  Cin.,  O. 
"    S.  M.  Merrill.  Chicago 
"    E.S.Janes,  N.Y.  City 

s  Piano  is  its  adaptation  to  the 
tic,  mellow,  yet  nth  anil  powe 
ntance  with  this  firm,  we  can  i 
c.    We  are  using  the  Bradbur 

Rv.  G.  W.  Whitney,  TXD. 
Rv.  J.  H.  Vincent,  T).D. 
Rev.  O.  H.  Tifiany.  Wash. 
St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  N.  Y. 
Dr.  James  Cummins,  Conn. 
Rv.  W.  M.  Punshon,  Lond. 
Rv.  J.  M.Waldcn,  Chicago. 
Rv.  R.  M.  Hatfield.Cinn.O. 
Ex.     Gov.    Wm.    Claflin, 
Newton. 
Dr.  J.  M.  Reid,  N.  Y. 
Dr.  C.  N.  Sims,  Bait..  Md. 
Dr.  H.  B.  Ridgaway,  N.  Y. 

human  voice  as  an  accompa- 
rful  singing  tones, 
ulorse  them  as  worthy  of  the 
y  Pianos  in  our  families,  and 

Philip  Philips,  N.Y.N. 
Rtv.  Alf.  Cookman  N  Y. 
Rev.  J.  E.  Cookman,  N.  Y. 
W  G.  Fischer.  Phila..  Pa, 
Chief  Justice  Bradley.  TJ. 
S.  Court,  Washington. 
Rev.  A.  J.  Kynett,  D  D. 
Rev.  Daniel  Curry.  D.  D. 
Rev.  Thomas  Guard. 
Rev.  L.  Hitchcock.  Cinn. 
Rev.  J.  S.  luskip,  N.  Y. 

Chap.  M'Cabe,  Chicago. 

Dr.  J.  F.  Hurst,  President,  Drew  Seminary. 


NEW  YORK,  July  4, 1878. 
FREEBORN  GARRETSOX  SMITH,  MANUFACTURER  OP  THE  BRADBURY  PIANO  : 

Dear  Bro.: — Our  South  American  cousins  have  a  passion  for  music.  The 
lady  teachers  whom  I  have  just  sent  to  Peru  and  Chili,  and  others  who  are  soon 
to  follow,  are  thoroughly  competent  teachers  of  music,  aud  they  wish  me  to  send 
them  three  of  your  Bradbury  Pianos,  as  they  prefer  them  to  any  other  pianos 
made.  So  please  select  and"  forward,  and  send  bills,  and  they  will  remit  you 
gold  drafts. 

Please  select,  also,  one  of  yonr  fine  new  scale  npriehts,  and  send  it  to  my 
good  wife  in  California,  as  Mrs.  Taylor  prefersthe  sweet -toned  Bradbury  to  any 
other  piano.  I  will  simply  add.  that  wherever  I  have  traversed  this  great  coun- 
try of  ours,  and  in  some  other  lands  of  son?,  the  good  old  Bradbury  takes  the 
palm,  and  I  can  heartily  recommend  it  to  all  who  wish  a  splendid  instrument. 
Sincerely  yours,  WM.  TAYLOR. 


BHADBUEY  PIANOS. 


tin-  latter  grateful  to  the  performer.  It  preserves  Us  pitch  ami  tune  in  a  remarkable  man- 
ner, am!  altogether  is  one  of  the  best  instruments  that  we  have  seen.  It  has  more  than 
fulfilled  the  promise  of  Mr.  I Smith  when  he  sold  it  to  us,  at  his  office  in  New  York.  We 
heartily  commend  his  announcements  to  such  of  our  readers  as  are  proposing  to  purchase 
a  piuuo. ' 

Dr.  T.  BsW FIT  TALMAGE  :  "Friend  Smith  is  a  Methodist,  but  his  pianos  are  all  ortho- 
dox •  you  ought  to  hear  mine  talk  and  sing,  it  is  adapted  to  morning  prayers  or  the  gay- 
est parties.'1 

BISHOP  AMES  says:  "My  Bradbury  Piano  is  found,  after  severe  test  and  trial,  to  be 
equal  to  all  you  promised,  and  is  in  all  respects,  in  richness  of  tone  and  singing  qualities, 
everything  that  couid  be  desired.  jours  truly, 

Baltimore,  ild.,  Jan..  1874.  E.  R.  AMES. ' 


**£ J«*t  Barijf  &&! .  IL  *.:. 


Dr.  E.  O.  HAVEN  says  :  "  My  Bradbury  Piano  continues  to  grow  better  every  day,  and 
my>elf  and  family  more  and  more  in  love  with  it.  It  is  the  pet  of  our  Household." 

BISHOP  SIMPSON  says:  "After  a  trial  in  his  family  for  years,  for  beauty  of  finish  and, 
•wurkmanship  and  for  splendid  quality  of  tone,  our  Bradbury  Piano  cannot  be  equaled.  * 

The  best  manufactured  ;  warranted  for  six  years.  Pianos  to  let,  and  rent  applied  if 
purchased  ;  monthly  installments  received  for  the  same.  Old  pianos  taken  in  exchange; 
cash  mid  for  the  same.  Second-hand  pianos  at  great  bargains,  from  $50  to  $200.  Pianos 
tuned  and  repaired 

Organs  and  Melodeons  to  Clergymen,  Sabbath-schools  and  Churches,  supplied  at  a  liberal 
discount. 

Send  for  illustrated  price  list.    When  we  will  say  something  to  please  you. 


FREEBORN  GARRETSON  SMITH, 


,ate  Supt.  for  and  successor  to  WM.  B.  BRADBURY,  No.  14  E.  14th  Street,  bet.  Broadway 
ud  (>lk  Avenue,  JJ.  Y.       factory,  comer  Raymond  and  WUloughby  Sts.,  Brooklyn. 


L:it 


OUR 


BY 


WILLIAM  TAYLOR, 

Author  of  "  SEVEN  YEARS  STREET  PREACHING  IN  SAN  FRANCISCO, 
"CHRISTIAN  ADVENTURES  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA,"  "FOUR 
YEARS  CAMPAIGN  IN  INDIA,"  Etc.,  Etc. 


NEW  YORK : 
NELSON    AND    PHILLIPS. 

LONDON : 

HODDER  AND  STOUGIITON. 

1879. 


COPYRIGHT 

1878 
Br  WILLIAM  TAYLOB. 


New  York:  J.  J.  Little  &  Co.,  Printers, 
10  to  20  Astor  Place. 


INTRODUCTION. 


THE  two  Grand  Divisions  of  the  New  World, 
discovered  contemporaneously,  their  histories 
parallel  in  time,  peopled  by  races  derived  from 
a  common  stock,  having  a  family  surname  in 
common,  and  linked  by  a  band  of  Nature's  own 
making,  may  be  regarded  as  Sister  Continents. 

Their  respective  populations  are  kindred — 
cousins  each  to  the  other,  in  the  great  Race 
Family  that  is  spread  abroad  over  the  globe. 

I  have  just  returned  from  a  friendly  visit 
among  these  South  American  Cousins  of  ours, 
and  have  recorded  in  the  following  pages  what 
I  have  learned  about  them,  and  about  their 
great  country.  The  drapery  of  my  illustrative 
facts,  incidents,  and  pictures  of  real  life  will  be 
purely  English,  and  not  Spanish ;  so  you  may 
read  audibly  for  the  entertainment  of  your 
friends  without  fear  of  stumbling  on  foreign 

words. 

3 


CONTENTS. 


I. — MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMERICA 7 

II. — BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.  .  38 

III. — OUR  ANCIENT  INC  A  COUSINS GO 

IV.— CALLAO— LIMA 89 

V. — MOLLENDO 106 

VL— ARICA  AND  TACNA 116 

VII.— IQUIQUE 138 

VIII. — PA  BELLON  DE  PICA 158 

IX. — HUANILLOS 169 

X. — ANTOFAGASTA,  BOLIVIA 174 

XL — THE  LONE  STAR  REPUBLIC 183 

XIL— CALDERA 195 

XIIL— COPIAPO 200 

XIV.— COQUIMBO 204 

XV.— VALPARAISO 209 

XVI.  —  TALCAHUANA 226 

XVII.— CONCEPCION 234 

5 


6  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

XVIII.— MY  CHILIAN  RAILROAD  TOUR 248 

XIX. — CONVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHO- 
LIC   2GS 

XX. — POOR  OLD  SAN  SEBASTIAN 282 

XXL — OUR  GERMAN  COUSINS 292 

XXII. — VALPARAISO    SEAMEN'S    EVANGELICAL 

SOCIETY 298 

XXIII. — GLIMPSES  OF  MY  HOMEWARD  VOYAGE.  . .  309 


OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 


i. 

MY   VOYAGE   TO   SOUTH   AMERICA, 

the  16th  of  October,  1877,  I  bought 
for  myself  and  for  Bro.  T ,  a  fellow-minis- 
ter, a  through  ticket  from  New  York  to  Callao, 
Peru,  and  embarked  on  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam- 
ship Company's  steamer,  the  Acapulco,  bound 
for  Aspinwall. 

I  did  not  wish  our  friends  to  come  to  see  us 
off,  and  they  didn't  come.  I  always  prefer  to 
come  in  and  go  out  as  quietly  as  possible ;  in- 
deed, coming  and  going  all  the  time,  as  I  have 
been  doing  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century, 
my  friends  could  not  anticipate  my  changes. 

On  the  eve  of  one  of  my  departures  from 
London  to  Australia,  a  gentleman  said :  "  Mr. 
Taylor,  what  is  your  address  now  ?  " 

7 


OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

"  I  am  sojourning  on  the  globe,  at  present, 
but  don't  know  how  soon  I  shall  be  leaving." 

I  remember  many  occasions,  however,  in 
lands  remote,  where  my  friends  did  as  St. 
Paul's  friends  were  wont  to  do — accompany 
me  to  the  ship,  "and  sorrowed  most  of  all  that 
they  should  see  my  face  no  more." 

About  fifteen  years  ago,  after  a  successful 
soul-saving  campaign  in  Tasmania,  I  preached 
in  Launceston,  on  the  eve  of  my  departure,  to 
a  crowded  house,  at  6  A.M.  The  whole  con- 
gregation, including  some  hundreds  of  persons 
who  had  recently  received  the  Saviour,  accom- 
panied me  to  the  ship.  They  stood  on  the 
shore,  and  sang  hymns,  and  waved  adieus  till  I 
passed  from  view. 

Once,  on  leaving  Sydney,  Australia,  some  of 
my  friends  chartered  a  steamer,  and  out  through 
that  most  commodious  and  beautiful  harbor  in 
the  world,  escorted  the  ship  on  which  I  was 
passenger,  singing  hymns  and  cheering  vocifer- 
ously. The  leader  of  that  loving  company  was 
a  Crown  Prosecutor,  and  a  nephew  of  the  Duke 
of  Wellington.  I  fully  appreciated  the  kind- 
ness of  my  friends,  but  hid  away  from  the  gaze 
of  men  as  soon  as  I  could. 

Well,  there  was  nothing  of  that  sort  when 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEKICA.       9 

Bro.  T and  I  bade  adieu  to  our  native 

laud,  last  October. 

Indeed,  for  reasons  satisfactory  to  ourselves, 
we  embarked  as  steerage  passengers.  Patrick 
said  to  the  Judge,  "  I  have  thirteen  reasons  to 
assign  for  my  father's  non-appearance  in  court. 
The  first  reason  is  that  he  has  been  dead  for 
three  weeks."  "  The  second  reason  is  " — "  That 
one  is  sufficient,"  interrupted  the  Judge.  So,  for 
our  appearance  in  the  steerage,  one  reason  may 
suffice.  By  helping  to  send  missionaries  to  my 
work  in  India,  for  the  last  two  years,  together 
with  heavy  traveling  and  family  expenses,  my 
funds  were  so  far  spent  that  I  was  obliged  to 
go  third-class  to  see  my  cousins,  or  not  go  at 
all ;  paying,  as  I  do,  my  traveling  expenses  out 
of  my  own  pocket,  and  not  out  of  the  pockets 
of  my  friends.  A  first-class  ticket  from  New 
York  to  Callao  costs  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  dollars  in  gold,  a  third-class  ticket,  one 
hundred  dollars.  I  believed,  too,  that  my  dig- 
nity would  keep  for  eighteen  days  in  the  steer- 
age. I  have  made  over  sixty  sea- voyages  first- 
class,  at  the  cost  of  enough  of  my  hard-earned 
dollars  to  give  my  sons  a  university  education 
and  keep  me  comfortably  the  rest  of  my  life. 
I  thus  quietly  maintained  the  appearance,  as 


10  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

well  as  the  real  dignity  of  a  gentleman,  and 
never  begrudged  a  dollar  of  it,  except  in  a  few 
voyages  with  the  "Peninsula  and  Oriental  S. 
S.  Company,"  when  they  included  enormous 
bills  for  "  wine  and  spirits  "  in  the  cost  of  pas- 
sage-tickets. On  one  voyage,  my  ticket  from 
Suez,  in  Egypt,  to  Melbourne,  Australia,  cost 
me  six  hundred  dollars.  Later,  I  paid  six 
hundred  dollars  for  a  ticket  from  London  to 
Sydney. 

I  said  to  the  agent,  "You  charge  me  more 
than  one  hundred  dollars  extra  on  a  single 
voyage  for  l  drinks,'  when  I  don't  drink  a  drop, 
either  of  wine  or  spirits." 

He  replied,  "  All  pay  alike ;  wine  and  spirits 
are  furnished  for  all  the  passengers,  and  they 
can  drink,  or  not,  as  they  like."  I  didn't  "  like 
it,  but  I  had  to  lump  it,"  and  pay  the  bill. 

Men  of  fortune,  and  business  men  who  are 
making  money,  ought,  by  sea  and  land,  to 
travel  first-class,  not  only  for  the  sake  of  their 
own  respectability,  but  to  support  the  carrying 
companies  who  provide  such  grand  facilities 
for  the  traveling  public  and  for  the  commerce 
of  the  world. 

But  the  men  and  women  who  cannot  afford, 
from,  their  own  funds,  to  travel  first-class,  should 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMERICA.  11 

be  humble  enough,  without  any  feeling  of  dis- 
grace, for  it  is  not  disgraceful,  to  travel  third- 
class,  unless  they  prefer  to  play  "  would,  if  I 
could,"  and  go  second. 

I  can't  say  that  I  took  naturally  to  the  steer- 
age. I  mingled  with  the  crowd  "aft,"  till 
the  ship  "got  under  way,"  and  then  quietly 
advanced  to  the  forward  part  of  the  vessel, 
where  we  get  the  first  snuff  of  the  pure  breezes, 
and  escape  all  the  accumulated  odors  of  the 
ship  which  make  the  first-class  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen so  sick. 

Now,  as  the  bell  rings  for  our  departure, 
let  us  review  the  situation.  See  that  Irish 
girl  hanging  round  the  neck  of  her  lover, 
weeping  vociferously.  He  tears  himself  away, 
and  hurries  off  the  ship.  She  rushes  through 
the  crowd  in  pursuit  of  him,  screaming  aloud 
in  broken  sobs  and  cries.  An  officer  of  the 
ship  arrests  her  on  the  gangway  and  fetches 
her  back.  Poor  young  woman !  she  seems 
quite  inconsolable. 

Here  are  two  blooming  brides  with  their 
bridegrooms.  One  pair  of  them  emigrating 
to  California,  the  other  are  on  a  bridal  tour 
to  visit  kindred  in  Virginia  City,  Nevada,  by 
the  "  Robin-Hood-Barn  "  route. 


12  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

See  the  beautiful  woman  in  that  group 
She  seems  in  appearance  to  be  on  the  sunny 
side  of  thirty;  she  is  the  mother  of  thirteen 
children,  and,  with  her  kind  husband,  and 
loving  sons  and  daughters,  all  smiling  and 
happy,  she  is  returning  to  California — a  Por- 
tuguese family  just  from  a  visit  to  their  "  fa- 
derland." 

What  sort  of  a  shattered,  tattered  family 
group  is  that?  An  old  Irishman  and  his 
wife.  The  poor  old  bag  of  bones  sitting  be- 
side them  is  all  that  remains  of  their  elder 
brother,  who  sold  all  his  possessions  to  raise 
money  for  the  passage  of  the  lot  of  them  to 
California,  where  they  hope  to  pick  up  gold 
in  the  streets.  Poor  old  souls,  I  do  pity 
them  in  my  heart.  If  the  Blessed  Virgin  un- 
dertakes to  provide  for  that  lot  in  California, 
she  will  not  have  much  time  to  spare  for 
her  poor  children  away  back  on  the  Emerald 
Isle. 

Let  us  speak  to  this  sick  woman  lying  on 
the  deck.  The  pretty  little  girl  by  her  side 
is  her  daughter.  They  have  set  out  to  meet 
husband  and  father  in  San  Francisco.  She 
is  an  intelligent  lady,  and  was  for  years  a 
New  England  "  school-inarm."  She  is  unable 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEKICA.  13 

to  walk,  but  her  spirit  will  sustain  her  infirm- 
ity, and  she  will,  by  the  will  of  God,  recover 
her  heaitn,  and  join  her  husband.  We  have 
here  a  crowd  of  representatives  of  many  na- 
tionalities, but  all  seem  cheerful ;  and  we  find 
the  forward  deck  an  enjoyable  place,  free  and 
easy  as  a  pic-nic  party. 

There  goes  the  gong.  Ho  for  John  China- 
man, "  his  rattle ! "  "  Supper,  supper,  ladies 
and  gentlemen,"  shouts  the  colored  caterer 
for  the  company.  We  all  march  to  the  music, 
and  gather  round  our  "common  board" — it 
is  a  long  "  board  "  about  three  feet  wide ;  our 
board  is  suspended  by  ropes  from  the  beams 
of  the  upper  deck.  'Tis  said  that  people  can 
eat  more  standing  erect  than  in  a  sitting  pos- 
ture, so  we  stand  shoulder  to  shoulder  along 
both  sides  of  the  board.  Each  eater  finds 
before  him  a  tin  cup  and  an  iron  spoon.  A 
great  boiler  of  tea  is  passed  round,  all  sweet- 
ened and  ready  for  use,  and  the  cups  are 
filled.  This,  with  a  huge  panful  of  excellent 
"ship  bread,"  makes  up  the  supper  supply. 
"Our  board"  is  then  run  up  to  the  ceiling, 
and  sleeping-bunks  are  extemporized  in  all  the 
available  space  between  decks.  The  ladies 
have  a  large  forward  cabin  for  their  own  ex- 


14  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

elusive   use,  and   not   the   slightest   intrusion 

'  O 

allowed.  Having  some  blankets  of  our  own, 

Bro.  T and  I  prefer  a  spread  on  the  upper 

deck,  so  we  commit  ourselves  to  the  care  of 
our  gracious  Father,  and  sleep  sweetly  in  the 
light  of  the  stars. 

There,  with  rising  swell,  cadence,  and  clatter, 
goes  John's  rattle  again. 

"  Breakfast  gentlemen,  breakfast."  So  with 
a  rush  we  all  gather  again  "  round  the  board." 
Tin  plates,  knives  and  forks,  and  the  familiar 
tin  cup.  A  great  boiler  of  good  sweetened 
coffee  is  passed  round,  and  our  cups  are  filled ; 
hard  tack,  butter,  boiled  potatoes,  and  tough 
"  junk  "  make  up  a  very  digestible  breakfast. 
In  all  my  voyages  my  only  real  trouble  at  sea 
has  been  from  indigestion. 

Breakfast  at  9  A.M.  ;  dinner  extending  through 
an  hour  from  5  to  6  P.M.,  with  half  a  dozen 
courses  of  not  very  digestible  food.  Such 
varieties  don't  suit  me.  A  simpler  fare  is 
better,  somewhere  between  this  custom  of 
courses,  and  that  of  an  eccentric  English  gen- 
tleman who  invited  his  minister  to  dine  with 
him,  and  set  before  him  half  a  dozen  courses 
of  rabbits,  dressed  up  in  so  many  different 
ways,  somewhat  after  the  "  firstly,"  "  secondly," 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMERICA.  15 

and  "  thirdly  "  fashion  in  which  the  Gospel  had 
been  served  to  him.  At  the  close  the  minister 
returned  thanks  thus : 

11  Kabbits  hot,  and  rabbits  cold, 
Kabbits  young,  and  rabbits  old, 
Babbits  tender,  and  rabbits  tough, 
Thanks  to  Providence  we've  had  rabbits  enough." 

Sabbath  morning,  bright  and  lovely.  I'll 
get  out  a  hundred  copies  of  Bro.  Hasting's  ad- 
mirable little  papers,  and  distribute  them  to 
the  ship's  company  "  fore  and  aft."  So  I  go 
through  with  a  call  familiar  in  the  streets  at 
home,  but  surprising  at  sea — "  Morning  papers ! 
morning  papers  !  Hastings'  illustrated !  " 

"  How  were  the  papers  received  ? " 

"  With  a  smile,  and  a '  thank  you  sir. ' ' '  Some 
of  the  first-class  passengers  exclaimed  in  sur- 
prise :  "  Halloo,  here  comes  a  new  passenger." 
"  Where  did  he  come  from  ? "  "  He  seems  to 
have  just  dropped  down  from  heaven." 

At  10  A.M.  we  have  the  dress  parade  of  all 
the  sailors  and  servants  in  their  Sunday 
clothes,  for  inspection  by  the  captain,  and  at 
11  A.M.  we  repair  to  the  saloon  for  "Divine 
Service." 

An  officer,  after  the  style  of  a  "hop,  skip, 


16  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSESTS. 

and  a  jump,"  gets  over  the  lessons  and  prayers 
of  the  Episcopal  service,  and  a  padre,  of 
medium  calibre,  discharges  his  ecclesiastical 
cannon ;  and  we  respond  to  John's  gong,  and 
do  ample  justice  to  the  "duff,"  but  the  old 
junk  was  rather  too  tough  for  my  teeth. 

Ninth  day  out,  "  land  ho  !  "  See,  in  the  twi- 
light of  morning,  the  dense  foliage  of  the  Isth- 
mus of  Darien ;  the  soft  fleecy  clouds  drink 
in  and  reflect  golden  rays  from  the  Orient ;  the 
dolphins  sport  around  us ;  we  are  nearing  our 
first  port  of  debarkation.  Here  we  are  in 
"  Colon  " — the  Spanish  name  for  Columbus. 
Poor  old  Christopher,  how  he  has  been  stripped 
of  his  laurels  !  even  this  little  town,  on  a  remote 
bog  of  the  Carribbean  Sea,  is  not  allowed 
longer  to  bear  his  name,  but  must  be  called 
"Aspinwall." 

The  last  French  Empress  sent  to  this  town, 
as  a  present,  a  grand  bronze  statue  of  Colum- 
bus, which  extends  a  protecting  arm  around 
the  beautiful  but  timidly  crouching  statue  of 
an  Indian  princess.  It  should  be  put  upon  a 
much  larger  and  more  substantial  pedestal 
than  the  one  on  which  it  now  stands. 

This  town  has  grown  considerably  since  I 
saw  it  twenty-one  years  ago. 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEEICA.  17 

Our  ship's  company  are  bestirring  them- 
selves for  departure.  "Rail  train  leaves  for 
Panama  at  3  P.M." 

Our  Portuguese  family  have  been  patient 
and  cheerful  all  the  way.  Our  old  Irish 
woman  has  been  sea-sick,  and  "  reaching  "  hid- 
eously at  all  hours,  and  the  two  poor  old  men 
have  never  been  known  to  smile  since  we  em- 
barked, but  their  place  at  the  "board"  has  never 
been  vacant.  They  mean  business.  The  Irish 
girl  who  would  not  be  consoled  on  parting 
with  her  lover,  has  been  flirting  with  the 
young  men  all  the  way.  Our  sick  "  school 
mann  "  is  convalescent. 

"Bro.  T ,  if  you'll  stay  <  with  the  stuff,' 

I'll  take  a  hundred  copies  of  'Hasting's 
Illustrated,'  and  make  a  pastoral  tour  in  the 
town.  Yonder  is  a  colored  cousin  of  ours, 
with  his  truck,  waiting  for  an  honest  job ;  I'll 
begin  with  him." 

"  Good  morning,  sir." 

"  Good  morning,  Captain." 

"  Can  you  read  English  ? " 

"Oyes,sah." 

"Let  me  hear  you  read  a  little  from  this 
paper."  He  reads  readily,  and  I  give  him  the 
paper  to  keep. 


18  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

"  Where  did  you  learn  to  read  ? " 

"  In  Jamaica,  sah." 

"  In  what  part  of  Jamaica  did  you  live  ? " 

"  In  Kingston,  sah." 

"  To  what  church  did  you  belong  in  Kings- 
ton?" 

"  Coke's  Chapel,  sah ;  de  Wesleyan  Church, 
sah." 

"I  have  preached  in  Coke's  Chapel  many 
times." 

"  Oh,  dear  sah,  we  glad  to  see  you  here.  If 
you  are  come  to  hunt  for  de  place  where  you 
are  needed  de  most,  den  you  has  found  de  field 
you  are  huntin'." 

Now  a  crowd  of  hungry  fellows  gather  round, 
saying,  "  Give  me  a  paper,"  "  Please,  sir,  give  me 
a  paper." 

"  Can  you  all  read  ? " 

"  Oh,  yes,  sah ;  but  we  don't  get  many  books 
nor  papers  to  read  here,  sah.  No  minister  to 
speak  to  us,  nor  to  care  for  us.  Won't  you 
stop  and  be  our  minister  ? " 

"  No,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  I  am  obliged  to  pro- 
ceed on  my  journey  to  Peru  this  afternoon." 

"  We  are  very  sorry.  Can't  you  send  us  a 
good  minister,  to  look  after  us  ? " 

"  If  I  send  you  one,  can  you  support  him  ? " 


MY  VOYAGE  TO   SOUTH  AMERICA.  19 

"  Yes ;  we'll  divide  with  him  what  we  get, 
and  lie  no  lack  any  good  thing." 

"  Very  well ;  I  will  keep  you  in  mind,  and 
perhaps  the  Lord  may  bring  me  to  a  man  who 
will  be  willing  to  come  to  live  and  labor  with 
you." 

So  I  proceed  from  street  to  street. 

"  Well,  did  you  get  rid  of  all  your  papers  ? " 

"  Oh,  yes,  indeed,  and  could  have  disposed  of 
a  hundred  more,  if  I  had  had  them.  Many 
called  across  the  street  and  from  the  second- 
story  windows  of  their  dwellings,  begging  for 
papers;  and  many  want  to  know  when  a 
preacher  can  be  sent  to  Colon.  The  most  of 
the  people  of  this  town  are  from  the  West 
India  Islands,  especially  from  Jamaica,  that 
being  the  nearest.  All  whom  I  met  profess  to 
be  religious,  having  been  connected  with  the 
various  mission  churches  of  their  native  land. 
Very  few  of  them,  I  apprehend,  have  much 
spiritual  life  left,  but  they  remember  the  days  of 
old,  and  deplore  their  utter  lack  of  pastoral  care." 

I  visited  a  poor  old  woman,  who  was  very 
sick,  and  said  to  her,  "  Have  you  been  long  ill  ? " 

"  Yes,  minister ;  I  have  been  sick  long  time." 

"  Does  the  blessed  Jesus  abide  with  you,  and 
give  you  light  and  comfort  ? " 


20  OUK  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

"Yes,  minister,  I  pray  to  God  every  day; 
but  my  friends  all  gone,  and  I  feel  very  lone- 
some." I  prayed  for  the  forlorn  soul,  and  gave 
her  financial  relief. 

Train  whistling  for  departure.  "  All  aboard 
for  Panama ! "  Passengers,  loaded  with  ba- 
nanas, get  to  their  places,  and  now  for  an 
excursion  of  nearly  fifty  miles  through  a  dense 
jungle  of  tropical  verdure.  As  we  sweep  along 
the  track,  we  see  small  fields  cleared,  some  for 
the  pasturage  of  cattle — we  see  herds  of  them 
feeding  in  them  now — others,  for  the  cultiva- 
tion of  vegetables  and  fruits,  especially  bananas, 
which  supply  our  New  York  markets.  We 
pass  a  number  of  villages  swarming  with  our 
sable  cousins,  living  in  apparent  poverty,  but 
cleanly  clad,  except  the  little  urchins  who  have 
never  yet  had  a  thread  of  clothing,  and  all 
smiling  with  contentment. 

As  our  train  rolls  through  these  forests,  I 
think  of  my  homeward  passage  from  California, 
twenty-one  years  ago.  My  own  dear  wife  and 
children  were  with  me  then.  This  was  the 
first  railroad  my  boys  had  seen. 

When  we  slowly  moved  from  the  station  at 
Panama,  my  dear  little  Charlie  exclaimed,  "  Pa, 
where  are  the  horses  ? " 


MY  VOYAGE  TO   SOUTH  AMEEICA.  21 

Coming  to  a  curve,  I  showed  him  the  engine, 
saying,  "  There's  the  horse,  Charlie,  see  how  he 
snorts." 

He  gazed  in  great  astonishment,  and  shouted, 
"  Where  did  they  get  him  ? " 

My  precious  boy  has  long  since  gone  to  the 
countiy  where  horses  are  not  needed. 

Here  we  come  into  the  railway  station  of 
Panama,  sweeping  past  files  of  Colombia's  sol- 
diers, muskets  in  hand  for  our  protection.  We, 
indeed,  need  no  such  defense,  but  they  are  ful- 
filling a  promise  of  their  government  made  to 
the  railroad  company  a  quarter  of  a  century 
ago,  to  prevent  the  possible  recurrence  of  mob 
violence,  by  which  a  few  passengers  then  were 
badly  battered. 

Here  we  are  mid  the  noise  and  confusion  of 
another  embarkation.  The  tug  is  waiting  to 
convey  passengers  and  their  luggage  to  the 
steamship  Bolivia,  in  which  we  are  to  proceed 
fifteen  hundred  miles  to  Callao.  The  Bolivia 
is  one  of  the  ships  of  the  Pacific  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company. 

"  The  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  ? " 

No ;  "  The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany." 

What  Company  is  that  ? 


22  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAX  COUSINS. 

The  most  powerful  organization  of  its  kind 
in  the  world,  except,  possibly,  the  Peninsula 
and  Oriental  Company  may  be  equal  to  it. 
The  fleet  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Com- 
pany contains  nineteen  steamships,  with  an 
aggregate  registry  of  57,122  tons.  They  have 
many  magnificent  ships,  two  of  which,  the 
City  of  Peking,  and  the  City  of  ToMo,  have 
each  a  registry  of  5,080  tons. 

The  fleet  of  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation 
Company  consists  of  forty-seven  steamships, 
with  an  aggregate  registry  of  114,285  tons. 
Ten  of  their  ships  exceed  2,000  tons  each ;  seven 
exceed  3,000,  and  six  exceed  4,000  tons  each, 
the  largest  reaching  a  tonnage  of  4,666.  The 
ships  of  this  Company  do  the  principal  trans- 
portation of  this  coast,  from  Panama  to  Pata- 
gonia. Their  largest  ships  clear  from  Callao 
and  from  Liverpool.  They  take,  every  fort- 
night, freight  and  passengers  from  the  prin- 
cipal ports  on  the  west  coast,  pass  through 
the  Straits  of  Magellan,  touch  at  Montevideo, 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  Bahia,  Pernambuco,  Lisbon, 
and  Bordeaux,  and  proceed  thence  to  Liver- 
pool. 

A  few  years  ago  the  Chile  government 
launched  a  line  of  twelve  powerful  steam- 


MY   VOYAGE  TO   SOUTH   AMERICA.  23 

ships,  in  competition  for  the  immense  trade 
of  this  coast.  Both  companies  sunk  a  large 
amount  of  money  in  the  race,  and  finally  came 
to  an  agreement  that  the  two  lines  should 
employ  the  same  agents,  and  have  the  same 
rate  of  charges;  the  accounts  and  proceeds 
of  each  to  be  kept  separate. 

The  ships  of  both  of  these  lines  are  usually 
loaded  to  their  utmost  capacity. 

But  when  did  this  great  Pacific  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company  spring  up  ? 

Well,  as  early  as  1844,  William  Wheel- 
right,  an  enterprising  American  residing  in 
Valparaiso,  laid  the  foundation  of  it.  Having 
matured  his  plans,  and  arranged  with  all  the 
Republics  of  the  west  coast  for  their  execu- 
tion, he  went  to  New  York  to  secure  the 
requisite  capital  and  co-operation,  but  our  men 
of  means  gave  him  the  cold  shoulder.  He 
turned  away  from  his  own  country  in  disap- 
pointment and  went  to  England,  and  there 
succeeded,  by  small  shares,  in  raising  the 
funds,  and  the  "Pacific  Steam  Navigation 
Company  "  was  organized  as  the  result. 

Well,  here  we  are  still  in  the  railway 
station  at  Panama,  trying  to  get  our  portman- 
teaus from  the  luggage  car.  Nobody  in  this 


24  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

latitude  seeins  to  be  in  any  hurry  to   push 
business. 

We  can  cany  everything  we've  got  in  our 
own  hands,  but  here  are  two  strong  fellows 
waiting  for  a  job,  so  well  give  them  a  chance. 
*  "  Where  did  you  come  from  ? " 

"From  Jamaica,  sah." 

"  How  long  have  you  been  here  ? " 

"About  twenty  years,  sah." 

"  Have-  you  made  your  fortune  yet  ? " 

"Make  a  livin',  sah.  Times  very  dull  here 
now,  sah.  Fortune  out  ob  de  question,  sah." 

"What  church  did  you  attend  in  Jamaica?" 

"De  Wesley  an  Church,  sah." 

"  What  religious  services  do  you  have  here  ? " 

"  None  at  all,  sah,  except  de  Roman  Catolic, 
and  we  don't  take  no  stock  in  dat  concern, 
sah.  We  had  a  minister  here  some  years  ago, 
but  de  white  people  want  to  read  de  prars, 
sah,  and  de  colored  people  want  to  sing,  sah, 
and  de  two  parties  couldn't  agree,  sah,  so  de 
preacher  he  done  gone  away,  sah." 

"  Can  you  colored  people  raise  sufficient  funds 
among  yourselves  to  support  a  minister  if  you 
had  one?" 

"  Oh  yes,  sah,  if  we  had  a  good  minister  who 
would  be  kind  to  us,  he  get  support  plenty. 


MY   VOYAGE  TO   SOUTH  AMERICA.  25 

We  have  in  Panama,  and  in  the  neighborhood 
round  about  the  city,  at  least  one  thousand 
Jamaicans,  and  none  of  dem  don't  follow  de 
Catolic  religion." 

"  Can  your  people  get  a  suitable  place  for 
meetings  if  a  minister  should  be  sent  ? " 

O 

"  Yes,  sah,  quick  if  de  minister  come." 

They  don't  take  to  reading  prayers  readily. 
At  a  railroad  opening  celebration  in  the  West, 
a  preacher  read  an  eloquent  prayer  which  he 
had  composed  for  the  occasion ;  at  the  close 
Sambo  exclaimed,  "Dah,  dat  de  fust  time  de 
Lord  was  ever  written  to  on  de  important  sub- 
ject of  railroads." 

Poor  perishing  sheep  in  the  wilderness !  can 
no  man  be  found  who  will  come  and  care  for 
their  souls  ? 

But  would  not  a  minister  take  Panama 
fever,  and  die  there  ? 

Possibly,  but  the  risk  of  life  for  him  would 
not  be  greater  than  that  of  hundreds  of  Euro- 
peans and  Americans  who  reside  there,  and 
who  appear  to  be  as  healthy  as  the  people  of 
New  York.  The  United  States  Consul  of 
Aspinwall,  Vice-Consul,  and  their  families,  who 
have  been  there  over  five  years,  have  had 
no  serious  illness.  Dr.  Long,  our  Consul  at 


26  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

Panama,  has  been  there,  I  think  he  told  me 
over  thirty  years,  and  he  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  vigorous,  healthy  old  age.  I  saw  scores 
of  resident  Europeans  and  Americans  there, 
merchants  and  others,  whose  appearance  is 
as  healthful  as  that  of  persons  in  any  other 
country.  Strong  drink,  and  the  lustful  ex- 
cesses to  which  it  leads,  should  answer  for 
three-fourths  of  the  mortality  which  has  given 
fame  to  Panama. 

"Yes,"  replied  Bro.  T ,  "when  I  crossed 

this  Isthmus  before  the  railroad  was  built,  I 
and  another  teetotaler,  acting  upon  the  ad- 
vice of  good,  pious  friends  in  New  York,  pro- 
vided ourselves  each  with  a  bottle  of  brandy. 
We  carefully  selected  the  brand  specially  re- 
commended as  an  antidote  to  the  malaria  of  the 
Isthmus.  We  uncorked,  and  commenced  to 
take  the  medicine  as  soon  as  we  landed  in  Colon, 
and  before  the  boatmen  had  rowed  us  up 
the  Chagres  River,  we  emptied  our  bottles, 
and  had  to  get  a  fresh  supply.  It  made  both 
of  us  sick,  and  it  was  a  wonder  that  we  did 
not  die,  as  many  of  our  fellow-passengers  did, 
as  I  believe,  from  the  effects  of  brandy  and  ex- 
cess in  eating  fresh  tropical  fruits,  to  the  use 
of  which  they  had  never  been  accustomed." 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      27 

"  All  aboard  for  the  JBofovia.*  We  reacted 
our  ship  far  down  in  the  Panama  Bay,  after 
miles  of  tug-steaming. 

The  Bolivia  is  a  staunch  iron  ship  of  1,925 
tons  register.  She  has  three  decks,  with  lofty 
space  between.  The  hurricane  deck  is  covered 
with  canvas  awnings  fore  and  aft. 

We  third-class  folks  find  our  bunks  ready 
for  us  on  the  forward  part  of  the  main  deck, 
where  we  can  enjoy  the  full  sweep  of  the 
breezes,  so  refreshing  in  tropical  heat. 

The  first-class  ladies  and  gentlemen  have 
their  saloon  and  cabins  on  "  the  upper  deck." 

The  regular  hour  for  dinner  is  past,  so  we  go 
to  the  cook  and  get  a  good  broiled  steak  pre- 
pared to  order.  We  like  our  sleeping  accommo- 
dations better  here  than  in  the  Acapulco.  All 
the  passengers  of  our  class  have  left  us,  except 
a  German  watchmaker  from  La  Pass,  Bolivia, 
He  knows  enough  of  English  to  give  us  much 
valuable  information  about  the  interior  of  this 
great  country. 

Here,  in  our  new  quarters,  we  have  no 
"board"  around  which  to  "gather."  Each 
passenger  is  provided  with  a  tin  cup,  soup-pan, 
and  spoon.  At  6  A.M.,  Cousin  Cholo  appears 
with  a  pot  of  hot  coffee  and  a  box  of  hard-tack, 


28  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

both  of  superior  quality.  At  10  A.M.,  the  same 
rotund,  thick-set  young  Indian  presents  himself 
with  a  great  pot  of  beef-soup,  potatoes,  and 
"  tack ; "  and  at  6  P.M.,  he  reappears  with  tack 
and  tea.  This  is  the  regular  daily  fare ;  but 
each  passenger  is  allowed  to  make  a  special 
arrangement  with  the  cook  and  the  baker,  to 
suit  his  own  taste. 

Bro.  T and  I  could  have  gotten  on  well 

with  the  bill  of  fare  named,  but  we  paid  the 
cook  five  dollars  for  a  daily  dinner  for  eight 
days;  roast  beef,  and  a  variety  of  vegetables 
piled  together  in  one  course  on  a  large  deep 
plate. 

Sabbath,  the  2  7th,  the  eleventh  day  out  from 
New  York,  as  the  sun  is  sinking  below  the 
horizon  of  the  great  waters  of  the  west,  we 
enter  the  mouth  of  the  Guayas  River.  Here 
it  is  about  twenty  miles  wide ;  eighty  miles  up- 
stream, opposite  the  City  of  Guayaquil,  it  is 
about  a  mile  in  width  at  high  tide. 

Among  our  passengers  are  Mr.  Mero,  Mr. 
Warburton,  and  an  old  Texian  California  miner, 
whom  we  call  "  Texas,"  and  several  other  Cali- 
fornians  who  have  "seen  better  days."  Mr. 
Mero,  a  Canadian,  resides  in  Concepcion,  Chile. 
He  is  a  railroad  engineer,  and  has  been  to  Cali- 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEEICA.  29 

forma  seeking  a  more  congenial  home  for  him- 
self and  his  Chileno  wife  and  children.  Un- 
able to  find  a  hole  in  our  Golden  State  in  which 
to  dig,  and  having  spent  money  enough  in 
prospecting  to  buy  a  western  farm,  he  is  going 
back  to  seek  success  and  contentment  in  his 
old  business  in  Chile. 

Mr.  Warburton  is  an  Englishman,  by  trade  a 
founder,  who  has  been  employed  in  many  of 
the  great  foundries  of  the  United  States  for 
years,  always  getting  good  wages ;  but  he  is  a 
"  rolling  stone  "  that  gathers  no  moss. 

"  Texas  "  is  the  comical  yarn-spinner  for  the 
company.  As  we  ascend  this  beautiful  river, 
he  walks  the  hurricane  deck,  sniffs  the  air,  and 
gets  off  squibs  about  the  fever-breeding  region 
we  are  entering.  "O,  Jupiter,"  he  exclaims, 
"  did  you  ever  smell  the  like  of  that  since  the 
day  you  were  bom !  I  tell  you  what  it  is, 
friends,  if  you  take  a  few  more  sniffs  of  that 
sort,  you  may  just  as  well  close  up  your  ac- 
counts and  prepare  to  leave." 

Light  ahead — the  City  of  Guayaquil.  What 
an  extraordinary  light ;  brighter  and  brighter ! 
It  must  be  an  illuminated  house,  but  at  this 
distance  it  presents  the  appearance  of  a  great 
sheet  of  flame,  reflecting  what  appears  like  a 


30  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

stream  of  fire  far  along  the  surface  of  the  placid 
waters.  Nearer  still,  we  see  the  illumination 
of  one  great  building,  much  after  the  fashion 
of  the  Hindus.  Now  we  hear  the  music — a 
full  band  and  drum. 

Monday  morning.  "What  sort  of  an  enter- 
tainment was  that  last  night  in  the  city  ? " 

"It  was  an  anniversary  celebration  of  St. 
Simon's  day ;  a  grand  fandango — the  dancers 
danced  all  night." 

Yes ;  I  heard  them  every  time  I  awoke,  till 
the  dawn  of  the  morning — a  pious  Sunday 
night's  exercise  in  honor  of  St.  Simon.  What 
Simon  was  that  ?  Simon  Peter,  Simon  the 
Pharisee,  Simon  the  Leper,  Simon  Magus,  Simon 
the  Tanner,  or  some  modern  saint  of  that  name  ? 
Nobody  seems  to  know  or  care  so  much  about 
the  dead  saint,  as  for  the  living  sinners  who 

7  O 

grace  the  occasion  with  their  presence. 

Now  for  the  ship's  music;  the  instruments 
are  four  "  steam  winches  "  working  all  at  once. 
Here  we  see  one  turning  out  a  lot  of  freight 

O  O 

from  New  York — large  quantities  of  lard,  bacon, 
crushed  sugar,  etc.,  and  there  goes  a  veritable 
cabinet  organ.  But  what  strikes  the  stranger 
is  the  shipment  of  more  than  two  hundred  tons 
of  fruits  for  the  Callao  markets — pineapples, 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      31 

limes,  lemons,  oranges,  mangoes,  plantains,  and 
bananas  by  the  cord.  The  after  half  of  the 
main  deck  is  piled  to  the  joists,  leaving  but  a 
narrow  path  on  each  side  next  to  the  officer's 
cabins.  The  upper  deck  is  packed  in  the  same 
way,  leaving  the  first-class  passengers  barely 
space  enough  for  ingress  and  egress. 

Halloo !  they  are  taking  down  our  bunks — 
what  does  this  mean  ? 

"All  the  third  class  passengers  must  gather 
up  their  luggage,  and  go  to  the  after  part  of 
the  hurricane  deck."  So  all  are  busy  collect- 
ing their  luggage,  and  preparing  for  an  exodus 
to  a  higher  region. 

O  C5 

"Why  do  they  want  to  clear  us  off  this 
deck — we  are  getting  on  well  here  ?  " 

"They  want  space  for  two  hundred  bul- 
locks, to  be  taken  aboard  at  Payta."  So  we 
"  vamoose  the  ranch "  to  make  room  for  the 
steers. 

Well,  here  we  are  in  our  new  quarters,  cov- 
ered with  canvas  duck ;  good,  better,  best ; 
high  above  the  fruit  barricade  that  shuts  in  our 
unfortunate  first-class  fellow-passengers,  the 
best  ventilation  in  the  ship,  and  the  whole 
length  of  the  hurricane  deck  as  a  promenade ; 
but  we  have  an  immense  accession  to  our  num- 


32  OTJK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

bers.  After  twenty -four  hours'  steaming,  our 
anchor  drops  in  the  roadstead  of  Payta. 

What  a  bleak  coast;  not  a  shrub,  not  a 
blade  of  grass  to  be  seen,  not  even  a  stalk  of 
cactus,  that  takes  root  in  a  rock  and  lives  on 
the  wind. 

Introduced  to  Mr.  Foulks,  an  American  gen- 
tleman, who  has  lived  four  years  in  the  Piura 
Valley,  twenty  miles  distant.  The  city  of 
Piura  is  a  hundred  miles  inland.  Twenty  miles 
of  the  distance  traversed  by  a  railroad.  It  is  a 
beautiful  city,  celebrated  for  its  mineral  springs 
— a  resort  of  health-seekers  from  all  parts  of 
Europe.  Mr.  Foulks  has  come  to  receive  his 
wife  and  two  little  sons,  who  came  with  us 
from  New  York  —  a  happy  meeting.  Mrs. 
Foulks  is  a  member  of  the  Dutch  Reformed 
Church,  and  will,  I  hope,  let  her  light  shine  in 
the  dark  vales  of  Piura.  Mr.  Foulks  says  the 
valleys  of  Piura  are  as  fruitful  as  the  garden 
of  Eden,  both  in  the  variety  and  quality  of 
their  productions. 

Here  come  the  bullocks  from  Mr.  Foulks' 
"garden  of  Eden." 

The  lighters  for  conveying  freight  to  and 
from  the  ship  are  simply  rafts  of  "  balsa 
wood"  logs,  said  to  be  buoyant  as  cork.  I 


MY  VOYAGE  TO  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      33 

have  just  counted  seventy  huge  beef  cattle  on 
a  single  raft,  surrounded  by  a  railing,  a  real 
"  corral."  The  cattle  are  tied  each  by  a  rope 
to  the  railing.  Now  we  shall  see  the  process  of 
slinging  them  from  the  raft  to  the  deck  of  the 
ship.  I  suppose  they  will  belt  them,  and  hoist 
them  up,  as  I  used  to  see  it  done  in  San  Francisco. 

See  cousin  Cholo  adjusting  the  noose  of  the 
great  "sling-rope"  round  the  horns  of  that 
bullock  yonder.  Up,  up,  in  a  moment  the 
huge  beast  is  suspended  by  his  horns  in  mid 
air.  Up  he  comes,  his  eyes  rolling  in  terror. 
He  is  lowered,  and  laid  down  on  the  deck; 
instantly  he  springs  to  his  feet,  but  another 
member  of  the  Cholo  family  holds  to  the 
leading  rope  around  his  horns,  while  another 
seizes  him  by  the  tail,  and  what  with  pulling 
and  pushing,  and  cracking  the  joints  of  the 
poor  beast's  tail,  he  is  tied  securely  in  his 
place. 

I  am  surprised  at  the  gentleness  of  these 
cattle.  There's  a  Cholo  walking  upon  the  backs 
of  a  pack  of  them  on  the  raft. 

"Yes,"  replies  the   first  mate,  "they  seem 

gentle  enough  now,  but  if  you  had  gone  into 

the  corral   where    they   were    'lassoed,'   you 

would  have  seen  them  in  another  mood.     I 

2* 


34  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

went  one  day  to  get  a  dozen  choice  bullocks 
for  the  ship.  The  owner  told  me  to  go  in  and 
make  my  own  selection ;  so  I  walked  in.  They 
made  a  furious  charge,  and  if  I  had  not  suc- 
ceeded in  leaping  the  fence  they  would  have 
gored  me  to  death." 

On  they  come,  each  one  suddenly  "pulled 
up,"  and  passing  through  the  same  experience 
of  surprise  and  terror  in  the  ascent,  and  of 
manifest  relief  when  they  feel  themselves 
standing  again  on  their  legs.  Two  hundred 
and  two  beef  cattle  are  thus  stowed  away  as 
closely  as  they  can  stand. 

While  we  are  watching  this  scene,  the  new 
passengers  from  Payta  have  "squatted"  on 
every  foot  of  vacant  space  on  the  after  part 
of  the  hurricane  deck.  Happily  our  sleep- 
ing space  was  covered  by  our  blankets  and 
portmanteaus,  and  our  claim  has  not  been 
"  jumped ; "  but  since  the  days  of  Noah,  who 
ever  saw  the  like  of  this  scene  ?  I  have  trav- 
eled with  crowds  of  Mohammedan  pilgrims  in 
the  Mediterranean,  but  they  had  left  their  live- 
stock at  home.  Only  behold  how  our  cousins 
travel.  Each  family  has  its  small  premises  on 
the  deck.  The  bed  is  usually  in  the  centre, 
surrounded  by  boxes,  bundles  and  bags,  on 


MY  VOYAGE  TO   SOUTH  AMERICA.  35 

and  around  which  are  the  parents,  children, 
servants,  dogs,  poultry,  and  pets  of  every  kind. 

Next  me  on  the  "  larboard "  side  is  a  huge 
chest.  The  owner  sleeps  on  it,  and,  close  to 
my  pillow,  he  has  a  cock  and  a  few  hens,  to 
wake  me  early  in  the  morning.  Close  to  our 
feet  are  two  well-dressed  Chinamen. 

Nearly  opposite,  on  the  "  starboard "''  side,  is  a 
quiet,  seriously-disposed  peacock,  a  beautiful 
creature,  but  apparently  he  does  not  enjoy  sea 
life.  Next  to  him  is  poor  old  Briggs,  a  broken- 
down  cooper  from  a  condemned  whaling  ship. 
Mr.  B.,  as  might  be  supposed,  is  from  New 
Bedford,  but  has  been  on  this  coast  for  about 
thirty  years.  -His  Chileno  wife  and  grown-up 
children  reside  in  Talcahuana,  and  he  is  home- 
ward bound.  He  says  he  got  the  bishop  to 
marry  him,  and  paid  him  two  hundred  dollars 
for  the  job,  and  had,  as  usual  in  this  country, 
to  promise  to  be  a  good  Roman  Catholic.  He 
would  be  a  very  tall  man  if  he  would  stand 
erect,  but  what  with  hard  work,  and  hard 
drinking,  he  is  badly  bent.  He  is  greatly 
annoyed  by  a  game-cock  that  persistently 
mounts  his  chest  to  crow.  The  short  string 
that  holds  him  will  not  admit  of  his  reach- 
ing the  cooper's  bag  that  lies  across  the  end 


36  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSESTS. 

of  his  chest,  but  from  time  to  time  he  flies  up, 
and  by  the  aid  of  his  wings,  hangs  upon  the 
bag  by  one  leg,  and  crows  till  old  B.'s  hard 
words  fetch  him  down. 

Near  neighbor  to  Briggs  is  a  well-dressed, 
patient,  blind  cousin  of  ours.  He  seems  to 
be  a  brother  of  the  man  who  sleeps  upon  his 
big  box  next  to  me.  Over  my  head  hangs  a 
huge  gourd  perforated  with  air-holes  to  give 
ventilation  to  its  inhabitants — a  lot  of  very 
small  pet  birds.  A  few  feet  forward  of  us  is  a 
domesticated  "fly  up  the  creek,"  differing  a 
little  from  the  species  of  North  America.  He 
seems  to  view  the  situation  calmly.  Next  to 
the  water-fowl  is  a  huge  turkey-gobbler,  appar- 
ently as  much  at  home  as  if  in  a  barn-yard, 
and  quite  as  noisy  as  if  he  were  in  one.  Par- 
rots and  paroquets  keep  up  a  continual  chatter- 
ing. Monkeys  jump  about  and  give  variety 
to  the  scene.  Ducks  and  geese  sustain  their 
parts  of  the  music,  and  birds  of  nearly  every 
feather  contribute  their  notes  to  the  harmony. 

Down  yonder  we  see  a  lot  of  huge  lobsters 
fresh  from  the  sea,  and  on  that  great  ridge  of 
bananas  are  a  number  of  land  terrapins  crawl- 
ing about  for  bodily  exercise.  This  is  life 
among  our  country  cousins :  such  sights  and 


MY  VOYAGE  TO   SOUTH  AMEEICA.  37 

sounds  !  It  is  worth  a  voyage  from  New  York 
just  to  travel  a  week  thus  with  our  kin  in  their 
unrestrained  real  life,  as  they  have  it  at  home. 
On  Thursday,  the  3d  of  November,  we  woke 
up  at  anchor  in  Callao  harbor.  I  can  truly 
say,  as  it  regards  wholesonxj  fare,  and  improved 
condition  of  health,  it  was  the  best  voyage  of 
my  life. 


II. 


BIKD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEBICA. 

BEFOKE  we  enter  upon  the  details  of  real 
life  in  this  land,  let  us  ascend  to  the  summit 
of  Chimborazo,  a  full  view  of  which  we  had 
on  our  voyage  down  the  coast,  and,  like  Moses 
from  Pizgah,  take  one  grand  view  of  the  whole 
continent. 

A  minister  in  England,  of  my  acquaintance, 
once  made  a  visit  to  Ireland ;  lauding  at  Kings- 
town, near  the  city  of  Dublin,  he  heard, 
among  the  crowd  of  "jaunting  car"  drivers, 
one  fellow  shouting  in  a  stentorian  voice,  "Here, 
gentlemen,  is  the  poetical  horse  !  Here's  your 
chance  for  a  ride  after  the  poetical  horse  ! " 

The  minister,  struck  with  the  novelty  of 
such  a  ride,  soon  mounted  the  car  and  was 
on  his  way  toward  the  city,  quite  in  advance 
of  all  the  company;  but  soon  they  all  drove 
past  and  left  him  far  in  the  rear. 

The  minister,  with  some  show  of  disap- 

38 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      39 

pointment  and  impatience,  said  to  the  driver : 
"  Why  do  you  call  this  lazy  brute  a  poetical 
horse  ? " 

"Sure,  and  he  is.  May  it  plaze  your  riv- 
erence,  and  it's  yourself  that  can  see  that  he 
is  a  poetical  horse,  for  all  his  going  is  in  his 
imagination." 

Thus  we  shall  go  in  imagination  to  the  top 
of  Chiniborazo,  since  ascent  by  any  other  mode 
is  impossible,  and  view  the  land  where  our 
kindred  dwell. 

Here  we  are  at  an  elevation  of  21,420  feet 
above  the  roll  of  the  ocean;  here,  perpetual 
snow  has  resisted  through  the  a^es  the  melt- 

O  O 

ing  heat  of  a  tropical  sun ;  here,  by  telescopic 
mental  vision,  we  scan  the  outlines  of  one 
of  the  greatest  continents  of  the  globe,  and 
get  glimpses  of  its  vast  and  varied  resources 
and  populations.  This  stupendous  mountain, 
on  whose  sublime  height  we  stand,  is  lo- 
cated near  the  equator,  within  the  geograph- 
ical boundaries  of  the  Republic  of  Ecuador. 
We  stand  on  but  one  of  numerous  towering 
altitudes  of  the  Andes.  There  is  our  near 
neighbor,  "Antisana,"  rising  to  an  elevation 
of  19,137  feet,  and  her  twin  sister,  "Cotopaxi," 
18,880  feet  high.  This  twin  sister  got  into  a 


40  OUE  SOUTH  AMEKICAJf  COUSINS. 

dreadful  paroxysm  last  June,  and  belched  up 
through  her  awful  throat  countless  millions 
of  tons  of  ashes. 

A  merchant  residing  in  the  city  of  Quito 
told  me  that  in  that  city,  more  than  twenty 
miles  distant,  at  4  P.M.  of  that  dismal  day, 
the  clouds  of  ashes  so  darkened  the  heavens 
that  the  people  had  to  light  their  lamps. 

"Having  business  down  in  the  city,"  said 
he,  "I  carried  my  umbrella,  and  it  caught 
such  an  accumulation  of  ashes  that  I  had  to 
lower  and  shake  it,  precisely  as  in  a  heavy  fall 
of  snow.  This  continued  till  the  ground  was 
covered  with  ashes  four  inches  deep." 

The  twin  sister  had  just  cleared  her  throat ; 
then  with  an  awful  heaving,  she  discharged 
great  burning  bowlders,  followed  by  a  river 
of  lava  that  rushed  down  the  sides  of  the 
mountain  and  consumed  and  swept  away  a 
number  of  villages,  including  many  of  the 
best  cotton  manufactories  in  the  country.  To 
intensify  the  horrors  of  that  memorable  night, 
the  devil  of  revolution  broke  loose  in  the  city 
of  Quito,  and  the  ashes  were  reddened  with 
the  blood  of  many  of  our  unhappy  cousins.  As 
usual,  the  strife  was  between  the  "liberal"  and 
the  "  church  "  parties.  The  liberals  triumphed. 


BIED'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.      41 

Scanning  these  high  altitudes  south  west- 
wardly,  we  see  two  great  ranges  of  the  Andes 
extending  southwardly  through  the  continent 
from  Ecuador  to  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  They 
are  about  a  hundred  miles  distant  from  each 
other.  The  westerly  range  is  the  great  back- 
bone of  the  continent — a  huge  rampart  extend- 
ing from  the  equator  to  Patagonia,  about  four 
thousand  miles,  without  a  single  break  or 
pass.  The  rivers  of  the  west  coast  are,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  comparatively  small.  The 
vast  extent  of  countiy  between  these  two 
great  Cordilleras  is  covered  by  highland 
plains,  lakes,  detached  mountains  and  valleys. 
The  easterly  Andes  range,  though  one  con- 
tinuous chain,  vying  in  its  sublime  heights 
with  those  of  the  west,  has  a  number  of 
breaks  through  which  the  rivers,  fed  by  the 
heavy  rains  and  dissolving  snows  of  the  moun- 
tains, find  their  way  north,  east,  and  south  to 
the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

Far  to  the  northeast,  we  see  the  Orinoco, 
1,500  miles  in  length,  with  its  numerous  trib- 
utaries, trending  its  way  through  Venezuela 
to  the  sea. 

Away  to  the  southeast  we  see  the  great 
river  of  British  Guiana,  the  Essequibo.  Di- 


42  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

rectly  east  of  us  flows,  not  the  longest,  but  tlie 
largest  river  on  the  globe,  fed  by  more  than 
a  hundred  tributaries,  running  from  all  points 
of  the  compass.  The  Mississippi  is  about 
4,000  miles  in  length ;  the  Amazon  is  reputed 
to  be  3,600  miles  long,  but  I  have  not  seen 
the  man  who  had  measured  it.  More  accu- 
rate surveys  may  prove  it  to  be  much  longer 
than  it  is  now  supposed  to  be.  Far  down  to 
the  southeast  we  behold  a  stream  2,250  miles 
in  length,  which  is  150  miles  wide  at  its 
mouth — Rio  de  la  Plata,  the  River  of  Silver. 

Now  let  us  glance  at  the  Republic  of  Ecua- 
dor. It  extends  from  north  latitude  1°  50' 
to  south  latitude  40°  50',  and  from  70°  to  80° 
west  longitude.  It  comprises  an  area  of  248,- 
380  square  miles.  Its  population  is  officially 
set  down  at  1,308,000,  of  whom  one  half  are 
aboriginal  tribes.  I  will  have  you  under- 
stand from  the  beginning  that  I  have  not 
surveyed  these  countries  nor  counted  their 
inhabitants;  and  therefore  cannot  vouch  for 
minute  accuracy  beyond  an  exact  copy  of  offi- 
cial statistics,  which  may  be  relied  upon  as 
sufficiently  accurate  for  our  purpose. 

Our  Ecuadorean  cousins  are  reputed  to 
be  very  industrious.  They  cultivate  the  soil, 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.      43 

gather  indigenous  products  of  the  mountains, 
and  carry  on  various  industries,  especially  the 
manufacture  of  woolen  and  cotton  goods.  But 
owing  to  excessive  rains,  earthquakes,  volcanic 
eruptions,  and  political  revolutions,  their  coun- 
try is  often  devastated  and  its  inhabitants 
impoverished. 

Quito,  the  capital,  has  a  population  of 
fifty  thousand  souls.  They  carry  on  a  large 
inland  trade  with  their  neighbors  of  the 
United  States  of  Columbia, 

Guayaquil,  with  a  population  of  fifteen 
thousand,  on  the  banks  of  the  Guayas  River, 
eighty  miles  up  from  its  mouth,  is  the  prin- 
cipal port  of  Ecuador.  The  Guayas  is  the 
largest  river  of  the  west  coast,  but  is  navi- 
gable for  large  ships  only  about  a  hundred 
miles. 

Now  adjust  your  glass  and  scan  the  ever- 
green forests  of  Ecuador.  Away  on  those 
mountain  ridges  are  forests  of  the  cinchona 
tree,  the  tree  that  furnishes  Peruvian  bark, 
from  which  quinine  is  prepared.  I  have  read 
somewhere  that  its  medical  qualities  were 
first  manifested  in  the  cure  of  a  lady  of  note 
in  Lima,  whose  name  was  Cinchona;  hence 
this  foreign  name  of  the  tree,  and  the  asso- 


44  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

elation  of  Peru  with  its  bark.  One  of  its 
native  names  is  quine ;  hence,  quinine. 

Lower  down,  the  eye  rests  upon  the  deep- 
green  glossy  foliage  of  the  india-rubber  trees. 
They  are  tapped  like  the  sugar-maple,  and 
the  sap  is  boiled  down  to  its  proper  consist- 
ency. This  tree,  however,  differing  from  the 
sugar  tree,  bleeds  to  death  by  the  tapping  of 
one  season ;  and  but  few  of  these,  or  of  the 
cinchona,  are  planted  to  supply  the  waste 
caused  by  their  destruction. 

Upon  a  yet  lower  level  down  along  the 
lesser  hills  and  the  vales,  we  discover  culti- 
vated orchards  of  the  cocoanut,  and  the  cocoa- 
bean  trees,  both  of  similar  name,  but  entirely 
different  in  species. 

The  cocoa-bean  tree  is  somewhat  similar  to 
the  orange,  but  its  fruit  is  not  suspended  from 
the  small  branches,  as  is  the  case  with  oranges 
and  apples.  The  pods,  about  two  inches  in 
diameter,  and  about  six  in  length,  are  red 
when  ripe. 

These  pods  grow  out  of  the  trunk  of  the 
tree,  and  from  the  thicker  portion  of  the  large 
limbs.  The  beans  are  dried  and  exported  in 
sacks  to  Europe,  where  the  oil  is  expressed 
for  various  purposes,  and  of  the  oil-cake,  cho- 


BIKD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.      45 

colate  and  cocoa  are  manufactured  for  table 
use.  These  beans  pay  the  Ecuadorian  culti- 
vater  a  better  profit  than  any  other  product. 

In  the  valleys  are  plantations  of  sugar, 
coffee,  cotton,  tobacco,  a  great  variety  of  veg- 
etables, and  the  most  marvelous  growth  of 
tropical  fruits.  It  often  requires  two  men  to 
handle  a  bunch  of  plantains.  This  fruit  in 
appearance  is  very  much  like  the  banana, 
but  is  quite  a  different  kind  of  fruit,  being 
edible  only  when  baked  or  fried. 

The  mountain  slopes  and  ravines  of  Ecua- 
dor are  said  to  be  rich  in  minerals — gold,  sil- 
ver, quicksilver,  lead,  iron,  copper,  and  eme- 
ralds ;  but  these  mines  are  not  worked  as  yet 
with  any  considerable  profit. 

Ecuador  has  a  revenue  of  about  $2,000,000, 
and  a  public  debt  of  $3,500,000.  Her  im- 
ports to  Great  Britain  alone  for  1876  amounted 
to  $1,146,210,  and  her  corresponding  exports 
were  $1,222,585.  The  government  makes  lib- 
eral appropriations  for  public  instruction,  but 
I  am  told  that  much  time  is  taken  in  counting 
beads  and  repeating  "Ave  Marias,"  and  not 
much  solid,  useful  instruction  imparted.  Pass- 
ing the  northern  boundaries  of  Ecuador,  glance 
at  the  UNITED  STATES  OF  COLOMBIA,  a  group 


46  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSIXS. 

of  nine  States  covering  the  north-western  part 
of  the  continent,  together  with  Darien,  the 
Isthmus  connecting;  the  two  continents  of 

O 

America.  The  Kepublic  of  Colombia  extends 
from  0°  36'  to  12°  25'  north  latitude,  and  from 
69°  14'  to  83°  west  longitude,  comprising  an 
area  of  320,750  square  miles,  occupied  by  a 
population  numbering  2,851,858 :  more  than 
half  are  whites  and  half-castes.  Three  great 
ranges  of  the  Andes  traverse  this  Republic, 
the  easterly  being  the  largest,  with  a  series  of 
vast  table-lands  abounding  in  all  tropical  prod- 
ucts, as  also  in  some  of  those  of  the  temperate 
zone.  The  climate  is  asserted  to  be  salubrious 
and  healthful.  Most  of  our  Colombian  cous- 
ins reside  on  the  plateaus  included  in  an  ex- 
tensive cool  mountain  region.  The  inhabitants 
of  these  States  hold  a  high  rank  among  their 
South  American  neighbors  for  intelligence  and 
culture.  The  Panama  Star  and  Herald  is 
one  of  the  great  journals  of  this  newspaper 
age.  According  to  authentic  statistical  state- 
ments, this  Republic  appropriates  more  than 
a  million  of  dollars  annually  for  public  instruc- 
tion ;  it  supports  2,113  common  schools,  and  six- 
ty academies  and  colleges  for  higher  education. 
Religious  liberty,  too,  is  established  by  law. 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      47 

The  annual  revenue  of  these  States  is 
about  three  and  a  half  million  dollars ;  their 
national  debt,  ten  millions.  Bogota,  with  a 
population  of  40,000,  is  the  capital. 

We  next  glance  at  the  REPUBLIC  OF  VENE- 
ZUELA. It  covers  an  area  of  403,276  square 
miles,  and  contains  a  population  of  1,784,194. 
Her  annual  revenue  is  three  and  a  half  mill- 
ions; her  public  debt,  forty  millions.  For  a 
small  country,  her  exports  of  coffee,  cocoa,  sug- 
ar, tobacco,  indigo,  cinchona-bark,  dye-woods, 
hides,  tallow,  timber,  and  metallic  ores  are 
large.  Most  of  these  products  are  sent  to 
Great  Britain  and  Europe.  Her  annual  im- 
ports from  England  amount  to  over  three 
million  dollars.  I  recently  traveled  ^vith  a 
merchant  who  had  resided  ten  years  in  this 
Republic.  He  told  me  that  seven  revolutions 
had  taken  place  during  that  period,  each  revo- 
lution installing  a  new  President.  This  pro- 
tracted struggle  was  between  the  Church  and 
Liberal  parties.  The  Liberal  eventually  tri- 
umphed, and  drove  the  Jesuits  out  of  the 
country.  Since  their  exodus,  during  a  period 
of  seven  years,  the  country  has  enjoyed  peace 
and  prosperity.  God  bless  our  Venezuelan 
cousins ! 


48  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

Easterly  from  Venezuela,  we  see  British, 
Dutch,  and  French  Guiana. 

BRITISH  GUIANA  covers  an  area  of  85,000 
square  miles,  extending  from  8°  40'  to  0°  40' 
north  of  the  Equator,  and  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  200,000  souls,  of  whom  1,500  are 
English;  about  30,000  are  East  Indians  and 
10,000  Chinamen.  With  some  small  tribes 
of  Aborigines,  the  remainder  are  of  African 
descent. 

Georgetown,  in  the  Province  of  Demerara, 
and  New  Amsterdam,  in  the  Province  of  Ber- 
bice,  are  the  only  towns  of  any  note.  This 
is  a  country  of  extensive  unbroken  forests, 
but  the  lowlands  bordering  upon  the  Atlantic 
are  cultivated.  The  large  sugar  estates  are 
bounded  and  subdivided  by  canals  instead 
of  fences;  and  for  transporting  the  products 
of  the  fields  boats  are  used  instead  of  wagons. 
Causeways,  formed  by  the  soil  raised  in  dig- 
ging the  canals,  are  made  into  roads  for  pub- 
lic travel.  Here  mangoes,  plantains,  bananas, 
oranges,  cocoanuts,  and  other  tropical  fruits, 
and  a  great  variety  of  vegetables  abound. 

The  annual  exports  of  British  Guiana  to 
England,  consisting  principally  of  sugar  and 
rum,  amount  to  about  fourteen  millions  of  dol- 


BIED'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      49 

lars.  I  ever  cherish  a  grateful  remembrance 
of  the  kindness  of  my  cousins  during  my  so- 
journ in  British  Guiana  about  twelve  years 
ago,  and  of  the  happy  hundreds  of  them  who 
received  the  Savior  during  my  labors  among 
them. 

The  Essequibo,  a  large  navigable  river,  tra- 
verses the  whole  length  of  their  country. 

Now  adjust  your  lens  of  a  telescope  for  a 
horizontal  sweep  over  the  vast  EMPIEE  OF  BEA- 
ZIL.  Our  royal  cousin,  His  Majesty  Dom  Pe- 
dro, honored  our  Centennial  Exhibition  in 
Philadelphia  with  his  presence. 

This  great  country  was  discovered  by  Pedro 
Alvarez  Cabral,  a  Portuguese  navigator,  in  the 
year  A.  D.  1500. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  Guiana,  and  Venezuela;  on  the  west 
and  south-west  by  the  United  States  of  Co- 
lombia, Ecuador,  Peru,  Bolivia,  Paraguay,  and 
the  Argentine  Republic;  on  the  south  by 
Uraguay ;  and  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean.  It  extends  from  4°  30'  north  latitude, 
to  33°  45'  south,  and  from  34°  45'  to  72°  30' 
west  longitude.  This  vast  domain  stretches 
from  north  to  south  a  distance  of  two  thou- 
sand six  hundred  miles,  and  two  thousand  five 
3 


50  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

hundred  miles  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Andes, 
covering  an  area  of  3,288,000  square  miles. 
Many  Yankees  entertain  the  idea  that  we 
possess  the  largest  country  on  the  globe.  We 
do  not  say  that  our  people  are  not,  in  some  re- 
spects, the  most  extraordinary  people  on  the 
globe ;  but,  be  that  as  it  may,  here  are  some 
figures  to  be  considered. 

The  United  States  covers  an  area  of  3,026,094 
square  miles,  not  including  Alaska,  which  con- 
tains 1,539,706  square  miles,  and  a  fractional 
squatter's  claim  of  160  acres.  Hence,  the  do- 
main of  the  Empire  of  Brazil  is  261,906  square 
miles  larger  than  the  domain  of  the  United 
States  of  North  America. 

The  population  of  Brazil  is  put  down  at 
10,200,000— a  little  less  than  one-fourth  of 
the  population  of  the  United  States.  One  mill- 
ion and  a  half  of  these  were  slaves,  but,  by  a 
law  passed  on  September  28th,  1871,  providing 
for  gradual  emancipation,  their  bonds  have 
been  broken,  and  a  few  years  hence  there  will 
not  be  a  slave  in  the  realm.  Half  a  million 
are  Indians.  There  are  fifty  German  colo- 
nies, containing  40,000  Germans,  and  quite 
a  sprinkling  of  English  and  Scotch ;  but  the 
great  bulk  of  the  population  are  of  Portuguese 


BIED'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      51 

descent  and  mixed  blood.  The  Portuguese 
language  is  the  common  vernacular  of  the  peo- 
ple of  Brazil. 

The  army  consists  of  16,600  men,  enlisted 
voluntarily.  The  navy  includes  fifty-four  ves- 
sels; eleven  of  them  are  iron-clads,  and  sev- 
en are  monitors.  The  Empire  is  divided  into 
twenty  Provinces,  and  certain  territories.  It 
possesses  unequaled  facilities,  in  the  number 
and  size  of  its  rivers,  for  interior  navigation, 
and  has  about  2,000  miles  of  railroads  in  run- 
ning order. 

The  lowlands  abound  in  all  tropical  pro- 
ductions. The  table-lands,  at  the  elevation  of 
from  three  to  five  thousand  feet,  produce  plen- 
tifully of  the  temperate-zone  cereals  and  fruits. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Brazil  are  believed 
to  be  good,  but  have  not  yet  been  extensively 
explored. 

The  revenue  of  Brazil  for  1876  was  upward 
of  $58,000,000. 

In  common  with  other  countries,  great  and 
small,  she  has  a  heavy  national  debt,  amount- 
ing to  about  $300,000,000. 

Her  annual  imports  from  and  exports  to 
England  alone  amount  respectively  to  about 
$30,000,000. 


52  CUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

May  the  gracious  God  of  Nations  cause  His 
face  to  shine  on  Dom  Pedro  II.  and  on  his 
people !  Amen ! 

Now  pause  a  moment  to  contemplate  the 
spunky  little  REPUBLIC  OF  PARAGUAY.  It  is 
sandwiched  between  Brazil  and  the  Argentine 
Republic,  yet  it  has  an  interesting  history  of 
its  own.  It  was  under  the  dominion  of  the 
Jesuits  for  two  hundred  years.  Finally,  in 
1768,  the  people  rose  and  expelled  them  from 
their  borders.  Later,  in  1811,  they  broke  off 
the  Spanish  yoke,  and  became  an  independent 
nation. 

Their  territory  comprises  an  area  of  56,700 
square  miles,  occupied  by  300,000  people. 
Their  annual  government  revenue  amounts  to 
about  $600,000.  Our  Paraguayan  cousins  are 
entitled  to  our  confidence  and  love.  The  Lord 
bless  them ! 

Still  farther  on,  beyond  the  southern  boun- 
dary of  the  great  Brazilian  Empire,  is  the  little 
REPUBLIC  OF  URUGUAY.  A  river  bearing  its 
own  name  bounds  it  on  the  west,  with  the 
Rio  de  La  Plata  and  the  Atlantic  on  the  south 
and  east. 

Our  Uruguan  cousins  obtained  their  inde- 
pendence in  1825.  They  own  70,000  square 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEEICA.      63 

miles  of  land,  maintain  a  population  of  550,000, 
and  have  an  annual  revenue  of  six  and  a  half 
million  dollars.  England  sells  them  every 
year  about  $5,000,000  worth  of  her  manu- 
factures, and  buys  of  them  about  $4,000,000 
worth  of  their  products,  these  consisting  large- 
ly of  wool,  hides,  hams,  and  tallow. 

We  will  now  glance  at  the  vast  country 
of  our  Argentine  cousins,  numbering  about 
2,000,000.  Their  country,  the  ARGENTINE 
REPUBLIC,  extends  from  22°  to  41°  south  lati- 
tude, and  contains  838,600  square  miles.  Be- 
sides, they  claim  all  that  portion  of  Patagonia 
east  of  the  Andes,  adding  376,000  square  miles 
to  their  domain,  and  24,000  Indians  to  their 
population.  Buenos  Ayres  is  their  great  em- 
porium. Thirteen  lines  of  steamers  ply  be- 
tween that  city  and  Europe,  whence  an  im- 
mense immigration,  especially  from  Italy,  is 
continually  pouring  into  the  Republic.  Our 
cousins  there  are  an  enterprising  people,  and, 
besides  a  heavy  export  of  raw  materials  com- 
mon to  South  America,  they  export,  annually, 
in  wrought  and  unwrought  iron  to  the  val- 
ue of  $3,125,000;  woolen  manufactures,  over 
$2,000,000;  cotton  goods,  over  $4,500,000; 
apparel  and  haberdashery,  $1,400,000;  hard- 


54  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

ware  and  cutlery,  nearly  $1,000,000 ;  leather, 
saddlery,  and  harness,  over  $800,000.  They 
have  about  1,000  miles  of  railroads.  Well 
done,  ye  thrifty  Argentine  cousins. 

The  REPUBLIC  OF  CHILE  next  demands  our 
attention.  The  grandest  mountain  of  the  whole 
Andes  range  is  in  Chile,  the  Acancagua,  which 
rises  to  an  elevation  of  23,100  feet  above  the 
ocean.  Its  summit  would  be  a  better  stand- 
point for  our  present  view,  but  we  will  not  be 
at  the  trouble  to  change  our  base.  Chile  lies 
between  the  great  west  chain  of  the  Andes 
and  the  ocean,  a  well- watered,  fertile  country, 
about  one  hundred  miles  in  width.  As  Ar- 
gentina claims  all  of  Patagonia  east  of  the 
Andes,  so  Chile  claims  all  of  that  dreary  re- 
gion west  of  the  Andes. 

The  domain  of  Chile,  therefore,  extends  from 
Bolivia  to  Cape  Horn — from  latitude  20°  to 
50°  south,  a  stretch  of  2,200  miles.  Chile 
is  divided  .into  sixteen  Provinces,  and  has  a 
geographical  area  of  126,060  square  miles. 
According  to  the  statistical  pamphlet  they 
presented  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition  in  Phil- 
adelphia, their  population  reaches  2,319,266. 
The  annual  revenue  of  Chile  is  about  $16,- 
000,000;  her  national  debt,  about  $50,000,- 


BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.      55 

000.  Her  foreign  imports  for  1876  were  $35,- 
291,041.  Her  exports  to  foreign  countries  for 
the  same  year  were  $37,771,139.  She  has  in 
operation  865  miles  of  railway,  of  which  465 
miles  belong  to  the  government,  and  the  remain- 
ing 400  miles  to  private  companies.  So  says  my 
friend,  John  Slater,  Esq.,  and  he  is  one  of  the 
principal  builders  of  the  Chilean  railroads. 

Hereafter  I  shall  have  more  to  say  about 
our  Chilean  cousins  and  their  grand  country. 

We  will  now  give  a  passing  glance  at  the 
REPUBLIC  OF  PERU.  It  is  divided  into  nineteen 
Provinces,  covers  an  area  of  503,380  square 
miles,  extending  from  latitude  3°  to  22°  10' 
south,  and  contains  a  population  of  2,699,000, 
of  whom  1,365,000  are  males,  1,335,000  are 
females.  It  is  affirmed  by  those  who  have  made 
this  a  matter  of  observation  and  study  that  about 
two-thirds  of  the  people  of  Peru  are  Indians ;  of 
the  remaining  one -third  60,000  are  Chinese, 
17,000  Italians,  2,500  English,  3,000  Germans, 
2,200  French,  and  600  North  Americans. 

The  western  range  of  the  Andes  traverses 
the  Republic  of  Peru  through  its  entire  length 
of  1,300  miles,  about  sixty  miles  distant  from 
the  coast  and  parallel  with  it.  The  whole  re- 
gion looks  like  a  great  desert,  except  where  it 


56  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

is  crossed  by  the  little  rivers  from  the  moun- 
tains. With  sufficient  water  the  soil  is  won- 
derfully productive.  For  example,  the  Valley 
of  Chincama,  north  of  Lima,  exported  sugar 
last  year  to  the  value  of  14,400,000  hard  dol- 
lars. Some  single  estates  yield  eight  thou- 
sand dollars'  worth  of  sugar  per  day.  The 
climate  is  so  equable  that  they  can  cut  and 
crush  the  sugar-cane  during  every  month  in 
the  year.  These  estates  are  owned  princi- 
pally by  our  Peruvian  cousins,  and  worked 
by  Chinese  coolies. 

The  valley  in  which  these  estates  are  lo- 
cated is  connected  by  about  60  miles  of  rail- 
way with  the  port  of  Salaverry.  The  city  of 
Trujillo,  with  a  population  of  15,000,  is  six 
miles  inland  from  the  port.  Back  of  this  val- 
ley, near  the  mountains,  is  a  targe  deposit  of 
good  anthracite  coal.  The  mountain  valleys 
east,  and  much  of  the  country  of  Peru  lying 
between  the  great  Andes  ranges,  are  very  fer- 
tile in  all  tropical  cereals,  fruits,  and  vegeta- 
bles. Peru  is  rich  in  silver  and  copper  mines, 
but  her  great  source  of  available  wealth  is 
in  her  deposits  of  guano  and  saltpeter.  Her 
Henry  Meiggs's  railroads  are  the  greatest  won- 
ders of  the  world  in  railway  engineering. 


BIED'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  SOUTH  AMEKICA.      57 

Peru  lias  an  annual  revenue  of  about  $30,- 
000,000,  with  an  expenditure  exceeding  that 
sum,  and  a  burden  of  over  $200,000,000  of 
debt  to  carry.  Her  paper  currency  has  shrunk 
to  half  its  nominal  value.  The  great  trouble 
with  Peru  has  been  that  the  government  was  so 
rich  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  upper  class- 
es, instead  of  developing  the  resources  of  the 
country  by  personal  industry,  quartered  them- 
selves on  the  government,  and  demanded  a 
carte  blanche  on  the  public  treasury. 

"When  this  was  denied  them  by  the  party  in 
power,  the  next  thing  was  to  raise  a  revolu- 
tion, put  the  rulers  out,  and  put  themselves 
in.  Now  that  the  treasury  is  empty,  and  the 
national  credit  at  a  great  discount  in  the 
money  markets  of  the  world,  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  peace  will  prevail,  and  that  personal  in- 
dustry will  develop  a  principle  of  self-reliance, 
and  will  secure  adequate  means  of  subsistence 
for  our  upper-class  cousins.  I  believe  the 
country  will  recover  her  credit,  and  pros- 
per, and  be  all  the  wiser  for  her  hard  experi- 
ence. 

Peru  has  600  miles  of  railroads  in  operation, 
all,  except  two  short  bits  of  road,  owned  by  the 
government.  Altogether  they  have  drained 


58  OUE  SOUTII  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

the  exchequer  of  $135,000,000.  More  here- 
after about  this  interesting  country. 

We  must  descend  from  the  snowy  heights 
of  Chimborazo  before  we  freeze  to  death,  but 
ere  we  depart  we  must  pause  a  moment  to  see 
the  home  of  our  Bolivian  cousins. 

The  REPUBLIC  of  BOLIVIA  was  called  after 
its  Washington,  Simon  Bolivar.  It  extends 
from  9°  to  26°  15'  south  latitude,  and  contains 
500,870  square  miles  of  mountains  and  val- 
leys with  about  200  miles  of  coast  on  the  Pa- 
cific. Along  this  coast  line  she  has  four  ports, 
but  most  of  her  transportation  is  through 
Peruvian  ports.  Her  hardy  mountaineer  sons 
and  daughters  of  toil,  cousins  of  ours,  count 
up  to  the  number  of  two  millions. 

Her  exports  consist  largely  of  the  wool  of 
her  flocks  of  alapaca,  llama,  vicuna  and  sheep : 
also  of  cinchona-bark,  medical  herbs,  silver 
and  copper.  She  has  a  revenue  of  about  two 
and  three-quarter  minion  dollars,  with  a  debt  of 
ten  millions. 

Her  army  consists,  according  to  printed 
statements,  of  1,100  officers,  and  3,000  privates. 
Her  capital  and  largest  city  is  La  Paz,  with  a 
population  of  77,000. 

I  know  you  must   be  weary;  but   stay  a 


BIED"S-EYE  VIEW   OF   SOUTH  AMERICA.        59 

moment  while  I  give  you  one  or  two  grand 
summary  facts  to  ponder  at  your  leisure. 
These  South  American  nations  sum  up  a  total 
population  of  over  26,000,000.  Add  to  this 
the  populations  of  Central  America  and  Mexico, 
and  we  shall  find  the  grand  total  to  be  about 
38,000,000  of  the  Latin  and  mixed  races,  nearly 
all  speaking  one  common  language, — our  cous- 
ins and  next-door  neighbors.  Should  we  not 
love  them,  and  endeavor'  by  every  possible 
means  to  do  them  good  ? 


III. 

OUR   ANCIENT   INCA   COUSINS. 

THE  Empire  of  the  Incas  embraced  the 
country  now  occupied  by  Peru,  Bolivia,  and 
Ecuador.  Its  population  is  estimated  to  have 
been  about  12,000,000,  double  the  number  of 
people  now  residing  within  the  same  geograph- 
ical boundaries.  The  only  historic  records  of 
the  Incas  of  any  date  prior  to  the  Spanish  con- 
quest of  their  countiy  in  1550,  are  the  relics 
and  monuments  of  their  own  industry  and 
mechanical  skill,  still  found  among  the  ruins 
of  their  ancient  homes.  From  historic  data  of 
this  sort  many  volumes  have  been  written. 
Perhaps  the  best  work  on  the  subject  is  the 
very  elaborate  book  by  E.  George  Squier, 
M.A.,  F.S.A.,  published  by  the  Harper  Broth- 
ers. That  is  the  book  for  the  student  of 
this  ancient  extinct  empire ;  but  I  will  give 
a  few  extracts  from  it,  to  convey  some  gen- 
eral idea  of  its  construction  and  civilization. 

CO 


OUR  ANCIENT  ITSTCA  COUSINS.  61 

The  Inca  nation  proper  developed  in  the  An- 
des region,  from  Lake  Titicaca  to  Cusco,  their 
capital.  In  course  of  time  they  conquered  and 
absorbed  the  great  Chiniti  nation,  and  other 
tribes,  dwelling  in  the  valleys  and  plains  along 
the  Pacific  coast.  The  Chiinu  were  great  build- 
el's  of  adobe  palaces  and  towel's ;  the  Incas  were 
wonderfully  skilled  in  stone  masonry.  I  will 
give  but  a  few  descriptive  examples  from  the 
pen  of  Mr.  Squier.  About  10°  south  latitude, 
in  what  is  now  North  Peru,  in  a  beautiful  val- 
ley, six  miles  wide  and  fifteen  miles  long, 
watered  by  the  river  Moche,  is  the  ancient 
capital  of  our  old  cousin  Chimu.  "The  city 
now  consists  of  a  wilderness  of  walls,  forming 
great  inclosures,  each  containing  a  labyrinth 
of  ruined  dwelling  and  other  edifices.  On 

O 

one  side  of  the  city  is  a  heavy  wall,  several 
miles  of  which  are  still  standing.  From  this 
wall,  extending  inward  at  right  angles,  are 
other  walls  of  scarcely  inferior  elevation,  inclos- 
ing great  areas  which  have  never  been  built 
upon,  and  which  fall  off  in  low  terraces  care- 
fully cleared  of  stones,  each  with  its  aque- 
ducts for  irrigation."  These  were  doubtless 

O 

the  gardens  and  pleasure-grounds  of  our  old 
Chiinu  cousins.  Outside  the  wall  are  two  rect- 


62  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAK  COUSINS. 

angular  inclosures,  situated  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  apart,  each  containing  a  truncated  pyra- 
mid. The  first  of  these  inclosures  is  252  feet 
long  by  222  feet  wide.  The  remains  of  the 
wall  are  14  feet  high  and  6  feet  thick.  The 
pyramid  is  162  feet  square,  and  50  feet  in 
height.  It  is  built,  as  are  the  walls,  of  compact 
rubble,  or  tenacious  clay  mixed  with  broken 
stones  so  as  to  form  a  solid,  enduring  mass. 
This  appears  to  have  been  the  burying-place 
for  girls  from  five  to  fifteen  years  of  age.  The 
other  pyramid  is  240  feet  long  by  210  feet 
wide.  The  outer  walls  are  20  feet  high  and  8 
feet  thick,  with  an  inner  mound  172  feet  long 
by  152  feet  wide,  and  40  feet  high.  There  is 
in  this  city  a  reservoir  450  feet  long  by  195 
feet  in  width,  and  60  feet  deep,  with  terraced 
steps  of  clean-cut  stones  extending  down  to 
the  bottom.  Cousin  Chimu  built  another  pyr- 
amid in  this  neighborhood  called  the  Temple 
of  the  Sun,  which  was  over  800  feet  long,  470 
feet  wide,  covering  an  area  of  over  seven  acres. 
The  greatest  height  of  this  terraced  structure 
is  upward  of  200  feet.  It  is  built  of  huge 
adobes. 

The  Chimu  family  were  not  only  great  build- 
ers, but  skillful  workers  in  gold,  silver,  and  cop- 


OITE  ANCIENT  INCA  COUSINS.  63 

per,  especially  in  ornamental  imitations  of  fish, 
lizards,  snakes,  and  birds.  They  also  made 
agricultural  instruments  in  bronze,  together 
with  knives,  trowels,  etc.  They  excelled  in 
the  manufacture  of  pottery,  and  could  make  as 
fine  cotton  goods  as  are  woven  in  Manchester 
or  New  England  looms  of  to-day.  Mr.  Squier 
examined  a  piece  in  which  he  "  counted  62 
threads  of  warp  and  woof  to  the  inch.  The 
finest  Egyptian  mummy  cloth  has  but  44 
threads  to  the  inch." 

Mr.  Squier  gives  an  account  of  the  Mecca  of 
the  Chimu.  Here  are  a  few  illustrative  para- 
graphs : 

The  Ruins  of  Pachacamac^  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  Lurin,  are  situated  on  a  higli  bluff 
overlooking  the  sea,  twenty  miles  south  of  the 
city  of  Lima.  Pachacamac  was  the  chief  di- 
vinity of  our  ancient  Peruvian  cousins.  "  The 
name  signifies,  l  He  who  animates  the  universe ' 
— l  the  Creator  of  the  world.' r  A  chronicler 
of  Pizzaro,  named  Estete,  gives  the  following 
account  of  the  idol  bearing  this  great  name, 
and  of  the  place  he  occupied.  "  The  idol  was 
in  a  good  house,  well  painted  and  finished.  In 
one  room,  closely  shut,  very  dark  and  stinking, 
was  the  idol,  made  of  wood,  very  dirty,  which 


64  CUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

they  call  god,  who  creates  and  sustains  all 
things.  At  his  feet  were  some  offerings  of 
golden  ornaments.  He  is  held  in  such  high 
veneration,  that  none  except  his  priests  and 
servants,  whom  it  is  supposed  he  has  elected, 
may  enter  his  presence,  or  touch  .the  walls  of 
the  house.  He  is  held  throughout  the  country 
as  god,  and  to  this  idol  they  make  great  sacri- 
fices :  and  pilgrims  from  a  distance  of  nine 
hundred  miles  and  more  bring  offerings  of 
gold,  silver,  and  clothing.  These  they  give  to 
the  custodian,  who  enters  and  consults  the 
idol,  and  returns  with  his  answer.  All  the 
people  from  a  great  distance  who  come  every 
year  to  pay  tribute  to  this  temple  have  houses 
in  which  to  place  their  offerings." 

"This  town  of  Pachacainac,"  continues  Es- 
tete,  "  is  a  great  thing ;  alongside  of  the  temple 
is  a  house  on  a  hill,  well  built,  with  five  in- 
closures  or  walls,  which  the  Indians  say  is 
the  sun  " — probably  dedicated  to  sun  worship. 
"  There  are  also  in  the  town  nmny  other  large 
houses,  with  terraces  like  those  of  Spain.  It 
must  be  a  very  old  place,  for  there  are  numer- 
ous fallen  edifices.  It  has  been  surrounded  by 
a  wall,  although  now  most  of  it  is  fallen.  It 
has  large  gates  for  entering,  and  also  streets." 


OUR  ANCmNT  INCA  COUSINS.  65 


At  the  time  this  description  was  penned, 
the  Spaniards  took  away  from  this  temple  of 
Pachacamac  sixteen  hundred  and  eighty-seven 
pounds'  weight  of  gold,  and  sixteen  thousand 
ounces  of  silver.  The  great  body  of  the  treas- 
ure, amounting,  it  was  said,  to  twenty-five 
thousand  pounds'  weight  of  gold  and  silver, 
had  been  hid  somewhere  between  Lurin  and 
Lima.  The  following  incident  gives  some  idea 
of  the  wealth  of  this  temple,  before  it  was 
despoiled.  "A  pilot  of  Pizzaro  asked  for  the 
silver  nails  and  tacks  which  had  supported  the 
plates  of  silver,  bearing  the  sacred  name  of 
their  god,  on  the  walls  of  the  temple,  as  his 
share  of  the  spoils,  which  Pizzaro  granted,  as 
a  trifling  thing,  but  which  amounted  to  more 
than  thirty-two  thousand  ounces."  The  Incas 
had  long  before  conquered  and  taken  the  city 
and  people  of  Pachacamac,  but  instead  of  de- 
stroying and  superseding  their  temple  and 
worship,  they  simply  subsidized  it  by  building 
one  of  their  own  alongside  of  it. 

A  FAMILY  TOMB  of  our  old  cousins  in  the 
city  of  Pachacamac  was  opened,  and  thus  de- 
scribed by  Mr.  Squier:  "This  tomb,  walled 
with  adobes"  —  sun-dried  bricks  —  "was  four 
feet  square,  by  three  feet  deep,  and  contained 


G6  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

five  bodies :  one  of  a  man  of  middle  age ;  an- 
other of  a  full-grown  woman ;  a  third  of  a  girl 
of  about  fourteen  years ;  the  fourth  of  a  boy 
about  seven ;  and  the  fifth  an  infant."  The 
dear  little  cousin  "  was  placed  between  the  fa- 
ther and  the  mother ;  the  boy  was  by  the  side 
of  the  man ;  and  the  girl  was  by  the  side  of 
the  woman.  All  were  enveloped  in  a  braided 
network,  or  sack  of  rushes,  or  coarse  grass, 
bound  closely  around  the  bodies  by  cords  of 
the  same  material. 

"Under  the  outer  wrapper  of  braided  reeds 
around  the  man,  was  another  of  stout,  plain 
cotton  cloth,  fastened  with  a  variegated  cord 
of  llama  wool.  Next  came  the  envelope  of 
cotton  cloth  of  finer  texture,  which,  when  re- 
moved, disclosed  the  body  shrunken  and  dried 
hard,  of  the  color  of  mahogany,  but  well  pre- 
served. The  hair  was  long  and  slightly  red- 
dish, perhaps  from  the  effect  of  the  nitre  in 
the  soil.  Passing  around  the  neck,  and  care- 
fully folded  on  the  knees,  on  which  the  head 
rested,  was  a  net  of  the  twisted  fiber  of  the 
ajave,  a  plant  not  found  on  the  coast.  The 
threads  were  as  fine  as  the  finest  used  by  our 
fishermen,  and  the  meshes  were  neatly  knotted, 
precisely  after  the  fashion  of  to-day. 


CUE  ANCIENT  INCA  COUSINS.  67 

"Wrapped  up  in  a  cloth  beneath  his  feet 
were  some  fishing-lines  of  various  sizes,  and 
some  copper  hooks,  barbed  like  ours,  and  some 
copper  sinkers,"  so  it  is  evident  that  our  old 
cousin  was,  like  Simon  Peter,  a  fisherman. 

"  Under  each  armpit  was  a  roll  of  white  al- 
paca wool,  and  behind  the  calf  of  each  leg  a 
few  thick  short  ears  of  variegated  maize,  or 
Indian  corn.  A  small  thin  piece  of  copper 
had  been  placed  in  the  mouth,  corresponding 
perhaps  with  the  oblos  which  the  ancient 
Greeks  put  into  the  mouths  of  their  dead  as 
a  fee  for  Charon ;  and  suspended  by  a  thread 
around  the  neck  was  a  pair  of  bronze  tweez- 
ers, probably  for  plucking  out  the  beard. 

"  The  wife,  beneath  the  same  coarse  outer- 
wrapping  of  braided  reeds,  was  enveloped  in 
a  blanket  of  alpaca  wool,  finely  spun,  woven 
in  a  style  known  as  l  three-ply,'  in  two  colors — - 
a  soft  chestnut-brown  and  pure  white.  Be- 
low this  was  a  sheet  of  fine  cotton  cloth,  with 
sixty-two  threads  of  warp  and  woof  to  the 
inch. 

"  It  had  a  diamond-shaped  pattern,  formed 
by  very  elaborate  lines  of  ornament,  inside  of 
which,  or  in  the  spaces  themselves,  were  rep- 
resentations of  monkeys,  which  seemed  to  be 


68  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

following  each  other  as  up  and  clown  stairs. 
Beneath  this  was  a  rather  coarsely  woven,  but 
yet  soft  and  flexible  cotton  cloth,  twenty 
yards  or  more  in  length,  wrapped  in  many 
folds  around  the  body  of  the  woman,  which 
was  in  a  similar  condition,  as  regards  preser- 
vation, to  that  of  her  husband. 

"Her  long  hair  was  less  changed  by  the 
salts  of  the  soil  than  that  of  her  husband,  and 
was  black,  and  in  most  places  lustrous.  In 
one  hand  she  held  a  comb,  made  by  setting 
what  I  took  to  be  the  bony  parts — the 
rays  of  fishes'  fins — in  a  slip  of  the  hard 
woody  part  of  the  dwarf  palm-tree,  into  which 
they  were  not  only  tightly  cemented,  but 
firmly  bound. 

"  In  her  other  hand  were  the  remains  of  a 
fan  with  a  cane  handle,  from  the  upper  points 
of  which  radiated  the  faded  feathers  of  par- 
rots and  humming-birds.  Around  her  neck 
was  a  triple  necklace  of  shells,  dim  in  color 
and  exfoliating  layer  after  layer  when  exposed 
to  light  and  air.  Resting  between  her  body 
and  bent-up  knees  were  several  small  domestic 
implements,  among  them  an  ancient  spindle 
for  spinning  cotton,  half  covered  with  spun 
thread,  which  connected  with  a  mass  of  the 


OUR  ANCIENT   INCA   COUSINS.  69 

raw  cotton.  This  simple  spinning  apparatus 
consisted  of  a  section  of  the  stalk  of  the  qui- 
noa,  half  as  large  as  the  little  finger,  and 
eight  inches  long,  its  lower  end  fitted  through 
a  whirl-bob  of  stone  to  give  it  momentum 
when  set  in  motion  by  a  twirl  of  the  fore- 
finger and  thumb,  grasping  a  point  of  hard 
wood  stuck  in  the  upper  end  of  the  spindle. 
The  contrivance  is  precisely  the  same  as  that 
in  universal  use  by  the  Indian  women  of 
the  present  day.  One  of  the  most  inter- 
esting: articles  found  with  the  woman  was 

O 

a  kind  of  wallet,  composed  of  two  pieces  of 
thick  cotton  cloth  of  different  colors,  ten 
inches  long  by  five  broad,  the  lower  end  of 
each  terminating  in  a  fringe,  and  the  upper 
end  of  each  corner  in  a  long  braid,  the 
braids  of  both  being  again  braided  together. 
These  cloths  placed  together  were  carefully 
folded  up  and  tied  by  the  braids.  The  pocket 
contained  some  '  Lima  beans,'  a  few  pods  of 
cotton  gathered  before  maturity,  the  husks 
being  still  on,  some  fragments  of  an  ornament 
of  thin  silver,  and  two  little  thin  disks  of  the 
same  material,  three-tenths  of  an  inch  in  di- 
ameter, and  pierced  with  a  small  hole  near  its 
edge,  too  minute  for  ornament  apparently,  and 


70  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

possibly  used  as  a  coin;  also  tiny  beads  of 
chalcedony,  scarcely  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
diameter. 

"  The  body  of  the  girl  was  in  a  peculiar  posi- 
tion, having  been  seated  on  a  kind  of  work- 
box  of  braided  reeds,  with  a  cover  hinged  on 
one  side,  and  shutting  down  and  fastening  on 
the  other.  It  was  about  eighteen  inches  long, 
fourteen  wide,  ajjd  eight  deep,  and  contained 
a  greater  variety  of  articles  than  I  ever  found 
together  in  any  grave  of  the  aborigines. 
There  were  grouped  together  things  childish, 
and  things  showing  approach  to  maturity. 
There  were  rude  specimens  of  knitting,  with 
places  showing  where  stitches  had  been 
dropped;  mites  of  spindles  and  implements 
for  weaving,  and  braids  of  thread  of  irregular 
thickness,  kept  as  if  for  sake  of  contrast  with 
others  larger  and  nicely  wound  with  a  finer 
and  more  even  thread.  There  were  skeins  and 
spools  of  thread;  the  spools  being  composed 
of  two  splints  placed  across  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  the  thread  wound  in  and 
out  between  them.  There  were  strips  of 
cloth,  some  wide,  some  narrow,  and  some  of 
two  and  even  three  colors.  There  were  pouches 
plain  and  variegated,  of  different  sizes,  and 


OUK  AXCIEXT  IXCA   COUSIXS.  71 

all  woven  or  knit  without  a  seam.  There 
were  needles  of  bone  and  of  bronze ;  a  comb 
and  a  little  bronze  knife,  and  some  other  ar- 
ticles ;  a  fan,  smaller  than  that  of  the  mother, 
Was  also  stored  away  in  the  box.  There  were 
several  sections  of  the  hollow  bones  of  some 
bird,  carefully  stopped  by  a  wad  of  cotton, 
and  containing  pigments  of  various  colors. 
With  these  I  found  a  curious  contrivance 
made  of  the  finest  cotton,  evidently  used  as  a 
'  dob '  for  applying  the  colors  to  the  face. 

"  By  the  side  of  these  novel  cosmetic  boxes 
was  a  contrivance  for  rubbing  or  grinding  the 
pigments  to  the  requisite  fineness  for  use.  It 
was  a  small  oblong  stone,  with  a  cup-shaped 
hollow  on  the  upper  side,  in  which  fits  a  little 
round  stone  ball  answering  the  purpose  of  a 
pestle.  There  was  also  a  substitute  for  a 
mirror,  composed  of  a  piece  of  iron  pyrites, 
resembling  the  half  of  an  egg,  with  the  plain 
side  highly  polished.  Among  all  these  many 
curious  things  was  a  little  crushed  ornament 
of  gold,  evidently  intended  to  represent  a 
butterfly,  but  so  thin  and  delicate  that  it 
came  to  pieces  and  lost  its  form  when  we  at- 
tempted to  handle  it. 

"  There  was  also  a  netting  instrument  of  hard 


72  OUK  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

wood,  not  unlike  those  now  in  use  in  making 
nets. 

"  The  envelopes  of  the  girl  were  similar  to 
those  that  enshrouded  her  mother.  Her  hair 
was  braided  and  plaited  around  the  forehead, 
encircling  which,  also,  was  a  cincture  of  white 
cloth,  ornamented  with  little  silver  spangles ; 
a  thin  narrow  bracelet  of  the  same  metal  still 
hunsr  on  the  shrunken  arm,  and  between  her 

~  ' 

feet  was  the  dried  body  of  a  parrot,  doubtless 
her  pet  in  life,  brought  perhaps  from  the  dis- 
tant Amazonian  valleys. 

"There  was  nothing  of  special  interest  sur- 
rounding the  body  of  the  boy;  but  bound 
tightly  around  his  forehead  was  his  sling, 
finely  braided  with  cotton  threads."  The 
dear  little  fellow,  that  was  all  his  stock  in 
trade. 

"The  body  of  the  infant,  a  girl,  had  been 
imbedded  in  the  fleece  of  the  alpaca,  then 
wrapped  in  fine  cotton  cloth,  and  placed  in  a 
strongly  braided  sack  of  rushes,  with  handles 
or  loops  at  each  end  as  if  for  carrying  it. 
The  only  article  found  with  this  body  was  a 
sea-shell  containing  pebbles,  the  orifice  closed 
with  a  hard  pitch-like  substance."  That  was 
our  baby  cousin's  rattle. 


OUB  A1STCIEXT  INCA  COUSINS.  73 

"Besides  the  bodies  there  were  a  number 
of  utensils  and  other  articles  in  the  vault; 
among  them  half  a  dozen  earthen  jars,  pans 
and  pots  of  various  sizes  and  ordinary  form. 
One  or  two  were  still  incrusted  with  the  soot 
of  the  fires  over  which  they  had  been  used. 
Every  one  contained  something.  One  was 
filled  with  peanuts,  another  with  maize,  etc.; 
and  there  were  some  others  representing  the  re- 
ligious notions  of  the  occupants  of  the  tomb." 

ENCA   AECHTTECTUEE. 

Mr.  Squier,  speaking  of  the  Inca  architecture 
of  Cuzco,  the  capital  of  the  Inca  empire,  says : 

"Some  of  these  walls  are  massive  and  im- 
posing, composed  of  hard  and  heavy  stones. 
Those  sustaining  the  terrace  of  the  Palace  of 
the  Inca  Rocco,  in  the  street  of  Triunfo,  are  of 
a  compact,  fine-grained  sienite,  some  of  them 
wei^hingf  several  tons  each,  and  fitted  together 

O  O  '  O 

with  wonderful  precision. 

"  The  remains  of  the  palaces  and  temples  of 
Cuzco  enable  us,  with  the  aid  of  the  early  de- 
scriptions, to  make  out  with  tolerable  accuracy 
their  original  form  and  character. 

"As  a  rule,  they  were  built  around  a  court, 
4 


74  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

presenting  exteriorly  an  unbroken  wall,  having 
but  a  single  entrance,  and,  except  in  rare  in- 
stances, no  exterior  windows.  The  entrance  in 
all  cases  was  broad  and  lofty,  permitting  a 
horseman  to  ride  in  without  difficulty.  The 
lintel  was  always  a  heavy  slab  of  stone,  some- 
times carved,  as  well  as  the  jambs,  with 
figures,  those  of  serpents  predominating. 
These  entrances  were  closed  by  heavy  doors. 

"The  walls  of  these  structures,  as  well  as 
those  supporting  the  terraces,  inclined  slightly 
inward,  and  in  some  instances  are  narrowed 
somewhat  near  the  top.  Those  of  Cuzco  are 
all  of  cut  stone  of  brown  trachyte,  the  grain  of 
which  being  rough,  causes  greater  adhesion  be- 
tween the  blocks  than  would  be  effected  by 
the  use  of  other  kinds  of  stone. 

"The  stones  of  some  structures  range  in 
length  from  one  to  eight  feet,  and  in  thickness 
from  six  inches  to  two  feet.  They  are  laid  in 
regular  courses,  the  larger  stones  generally  at 
the  bottom,  each  course  diminishing  in  thick- 
ness toward  the  top  of  the  Avail,  thus  giving  a 
very  pleasant  effect  of  graduation.  The  joints 
are  all  of  a  precision  unknown  in  our  architec- 
ture, and  not  rivaled  in  the  remains  of  ancient 
art  that  had  fallen  under  my  notice  in  Europe. 


OUR  ANCIENT  INCA   COUSINS.  75 

The  statement  of  old  writers,  that  the  accu- 
racy with  which  the  stones  of  some  structures 
were  fitted  together  was  such  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  introduce  the  thinest  knife-blade  or 
finest  needle  between  them,  may  be  taken  as 
strictly  true.  The  world  has  nothing  to  show 
in  the  way  of  stone-cutting  to  surpass  the 
skill  and  accuracy  displayed  in  the  Inca  struc- 
tures of  Cuzco. 

"  In  the  buildings  I  am  describing  there  is 
absolutely  no  cement  of  any  kind,  nor  the  re- 
motest evidence  of  any  having  been  used. 
The  Inca  architects  depended,  with  rare  ex- 
ceptions, on  the  accuracy  of  their  stone  fitting 
without  cement  for  the  stability  of  their  works 
—works  which,  unless  disturbed  by  system- 
atic violence,  will  endure  until  the  Capitol  at 
Washington  has  sunk  into  decay,  and  Macau- 
lay's  New-Zealander  contemplates  the  ruins  of 
St.  Paul's  from  the  crumbling  arches  of  Lon- 
don Bridge. 

"Nearly  air*  the  rooms  of  an  Inca  house 
opened  from  the  court.  As  a  rule  these  had 
no  connection,  and  seem  to  have  been  dedicated 
each  to  a  special  purpose.  In  some  cases, 
nevertheless,  there  were  inner  chambers,  to  be 
reached  only  after  passing  through  a  number 


76  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSIXS. 

of  outer  ones.  These  were,  perhaps,  recesses 
sacred  to  domestic  or  religious  rites,  or  places 
of  refuge  for  the  timid  or  weak.  Many  of  the 
apartments  were  large.  Garcilasso  de  la  Vega 
describes  some  of  them,  of  which  the  remains 
exist  to  indicate  his  accuracy,  as  capable  of  re- 
ceiving sixty  horsemen  with  room  enough  to 
exercise  with  their  lances.  Three  sides  of  the 
great  central  square  were  occupied  by  as  many 
grand  public  edifices,  in  which  religious  and 
other  ceremonies  were  observed  in  bad  weather, 
each  of  which  had  the  capacity  to  receive 
several  thousand  people.  Some  of  them  in- 
deed are  two  hundred  paces  long,  and  from  fifty 
to  sixty  broad,  and  capable  of  holding  3,000 
people  each. 

"Prescott   and  others  have  fallen  into  the 
error  of   describing  all  the  buildings  of  the 

O  O 

ancient  Peruvians  as  of  only  a  single  story, 
low,  and  without  windows.  Now,  the  walls 
which  remain,  show  that  in  Cuzco  they  were 
from  thirty-five  to  forty  feet  high,  besides  the 
spring  of  the  roof.  They  were  perhaps  all  of 
a  single  story,  but  elsewhere  we  know  there 
were  edifices,  private  dwellings  as  well  as 
temples,  of  two  and  three  stories,  with  windows 
adequate  for  all  purposes  of  illuminating  their 


OUR  ANCIENT  INCA  COUSINS.  77 

interiors ;  regard  being  had  to  the  temperature 
of  the  country,  which  with  a  people  unac- 
quainted with  glass,  would  limit  the  number 
of  apertures  to  absolute  requirements." 

"The  second  Temple  of  the  Sun  in  Cuzco  is 
800  feet  long,  and  200  feet  broad."  Mr. 
Squier  measured  blocks  of  polished  porphyry, 
in  the  w^alls  of  an  Inca  fortress,  eighteen  feet 
long,  five  feet  broad,  and  four  feet  thick ;  and 
others,  twenty-one  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet 
broad,  and  five  feet  thick,  and  so  perfectly 
fitted  together  that  it  was  almost  impossible 
to  find  the  joints. 

Old  Cousin  Chinm,  Cousin  Inca,  and  all 
their  large  families,  like  the  Hindus,  had 
gods  innumerable.  There  were  three  princi- 
pal classes:  village  gods,  household  gods,  and 
personal  gods.  Padre  Arriaga  gives  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  the  fervid  character  of 
their  worship : 

"The  various  families  came  carrying  the 
dried  bodies  of  their  ancestors,  together  with 
those  taken  from  the  churches,  as  if  the  living 
and  the  dead  were  coming  to  judgment.  Also 
the  higher  and  lower  priests,  dressed  in  their 
robes  and  plumes,  with  the  offerings  for  the 
gods  in  pots,  jars,  and  vases,  with  copper  and 


78  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

silver  trumpets,  and  large  sea-shells,  on  which 
they  blow  to  convene  the  people,  who  came 
with  tambourines,  well  made,  hardly  a  woman 
being  without  one,  bringing  also  a  great  num- 
ber of  cunas,  a  kind  of  cradle  with  carved 
sides,  and  figure-head  of  some  animal  which 
was  an  object  of  worship." 

The  manner  of  converting  our  cousins  from 
the  error  of  their  ways  is  described  by  the 
same  Padre  in  an  account  of  his  first  visit  to 
the  northern  provinces  in  1618.  He  states 
that  he  "  confessed  6,794  persons ;  detected 
679  ministers  of  idolatry,  and  made  them  do 
penance."  He  enumerates  the  number  and 
variety  of  the  gods  he  destroyed,  making  alto- 
gether 5,676  objects  of  idolatrous  worship. 
Besides  all  this  he  adds  that  he  "chastised 
seventy-three  witches." 

What  a  great  revivalist  was  Padre  Arriaga ! 
According  to  the  historic  narrative,  the  Span- 
iards long  before  this  pious  raid  upon  our 
cousins,  had  killed  40,000  of  them  in  that  re- 
gion. I  suppose  the  natives  had  a  good  deal 
of  the  old  Adam  in  them,  and  were  rather 
hard  to  convert. 

"And  were  they  indeed  descendants  of 
Adam?" 


OUR  ANCIENT  INCA  COUSINS.  79 

It  is  written,  "Adam  begot  a  son  in  his  own 
likeness,"  and  so  the  family  likeness  passed 
down  through  the  generations.  The  ancient 
Incas  had,  and  their  progeny  of  to-day  have  all 
the  properties,  proportions,  and  features  of  the 
Adamic  family. 

"How  did  they  get  to  South  America?" 
Now,  instead  of  troubling  ourselves  with  du- 
bious second-hand  speculations  on  this  subject, 
let  us  accept  God's  foundation  facts  as  our 
data  in  the  premises,  and  draw  our  conclusions 
accordingly.  Read  the  record  of  man's  creation 
and  chartered  rights  to  this  planet,  embracing 
all  its  continents,  and  seas,  and  resources— 
"  And  God  said,  Let  us  make  man  in  our  image, 
after  our  likeness :  and  let  them  have  dominion 
over  the  fish  of  the  sea,  and  over  the  fowl  of  the 
air,  and  over  the  cattle,  and  over  all  the  earth, 
and  over  every  creeping  thing  that  creepeth 
upon  the  earth.  So  God  created  man  in  His 
own  image,  in  the  image  of  God  created  He 
him ;  male  and  female  created  He  them.  And 
God  blessed  them,  and  God  said  unto  them,  Be 
fruitful,  and  multiply,  and  replenish  the  earth, 
and  subdue  it :  and  have  dominion  over  the 
fish  of  the  sea,  and  over  the  fowl  of  the  air, 
and  over  every  living  thing  that  moveth  upon 


80  OTJE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

the  earth.  And  God  said,  Behold  I  have  given 
you  every  herb  bearing  seed,  which  is  upon 
the  face  of  all  the  earth,  and  every  tree,  in  the 
which  is  the  fruit  of  a  tree  yielding  seed :  to 
you  it  shall  be  for  meat.  And  to  every  beast 
of  the  earth,  and  to  every  fowl  of  the  air,  and 
to  every  thing  that  creepeth  upon  the  earth, 
wherein  there  is  life,  I  have  given  every  green 
herb  for  meat,  and  it  was  so.  And  God  saw 
every  thing  that  he  had  made,  and  behold  it 
was  very  good." — GEN.  i.  26-31. 

Every  fruitful  mountain  and  hill  is  a  monu- 
mental attestation  of  the  Divine  authority  of 
this  record.  Every  body  of  water,  whether 
flowing  in  rivers  or  swayed  in  ocean's  depths 
in  perpetual  ebb  and  flood  by  a  lunar  touch  of 
God,  and  the  millions  of  creatures  that  daily 
get  their  food  from  God,  attest  the  genuineness 
of  the  charter  it  contains.  Every  living  thing 
in  air,  earth,  or  sea  owes  its  existence  to  the  pri- 
mal provisions  and  continued  force  of  these  char- 
tered rights  of  Adam  and  his  posterity.  Imag- 
ine with  Darwin,  if  you  choose,  that  in  the  dusky 
ages  of  antiquity  some  enterprising  old  monkey 
doffed  his  tail  and  straightened  out  his  hind 

o 

legs,  and  a  female  of  the  same  tribe,  with  such 
an  illustrious  example  before  her  eyes,  went 


OUR  AXCIEXT  INCA   COUSINS.  81 

through  the  same  remarkable  transformation, 

O  ' 

and  the  pair  of  them  became  the  progenitors  of 
a  race  of  intellectual  bipeds.  But  if  this  trans- 
formation could  have  taken  place,  the  new- 
comers could  not  obtain  from  the  king  of  the 
country  even  a  squatter's  right  to  a  foot  of 
land,  nor  a  single  source  of  subsistence,  without 
a  change  of  this  grand  old  charter. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  Adam's  revolt  from 
God  has  occasioned  a  great  change  in  the  Di- 
vine administration  of  government  over  this 
world ;  but  the  fact  of  man's  continued  exist- 
ence in  it,  and  the  continuance  of  all  the  re- 
sources enumerated  so  specifically  in  our  bill 
of  chartered  rights,  go  to  demonstrate  beyond 
a  doubt :  1st,  that  God  has  not  abdicated  his 
government  over  this  colonial  outpost  of  His 
great  empire ;  2d,  that  He  has  not  ignored  this 
ancient  charter  of  human  rights ;  3d,  that,  per- 
verted as  we  are,  He  entertains  a  purpose  of 
love  and  mercy  concerning  us — at  least  com- 
mensurate with  His  great  outlay  of  natural  re- 
sources on  our  behalf.  True,  the  King  of  this 
world  in  His  moral  administration,  exercises 
His  right,  directly  or  by  any  agency  available, 
both  in  regard  to  individuals  and  nations,  to 
abase  or  to  exalt  whom  He  will ;  yet  this  grand 
4* 


82  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAX  COUSINS. 

charter  of  human  rights,  and  the  vital  resources 
it  includes,  remain  unchanged. 

But  "  how  did  the  Incas  get  across  the  great 
Pacific  Ocean  into  South  America "  ? 

Did  we  not  read  in  the  charter  that  man 
"  was  made  in  the  image  and  after  the  likeness 
of  God"?  Would  not  such  godlike  powers 
of  intellect  be  adequate  to  the  full  measure  of 
his  responsibility  ?  Did  not  God  give  the 
planet,  with  its  earth  and  seas,  to  him,  and  com- 
mand him  to  replenish  it  and  subdue  it  ? 
Would  God  give  and  order  without  also  fur- 
nishing every  resource  requisite  to  its  execu- 
tion ? 

This  is  the  fact  in  the  case.  Before  the  na- 
tions descending  from  Noah  sank  down  so 
deeply  into  the  slime-pits  of  lust  and  idolatry 
as  to  preclude  the  exercise  of  their  genius  and 
capacity  for  bold  adventure,  they  crossed  the 
waters  and  took  possession  of  every  part  of 
the  habitable  earth,  "to  replenish  and  sub- 
due" it,  according  to  the  commandment  of 
their  Creator.  Christopher  Columbus,  as  a  dis- 
coverer, was  as  one  born  out  of  due  time. 
Every  countiy  in  the  world  had  been  discov- 
ered and  colonized  long  before  he  was  born ; 
so  long  that  their  charts  and  log-books  had  all 


OUR  ANCIENT  INCA   COUSINS.  83 

been  lost — lost,  indeed,  before  history  began ; 
but  their  colonies,  still  remaining  to  this  day, 
demonstrate  the  maritime  skill  and  bold  ad- 
venture of  the  men  who  planted  them.  With 
the  model  of  Noah's  great  ship,  more  commodi- 
ous than  the  "Great  Eastern,"  why  should 
they  not  build  ships,  and  navigate  the  seas  in 
those  days? 

Though  the  decree,  as  a  part  of  the  penalty 
entailed  by  sin,  was  pronounced  upon  man, 
"  Dust  thou  art,  and  unto  dust  shalt  thou  re- 
turn," yet  his  body,  unmarred  by  the  effects  of 
abuse  and  hereditary  ills,  possessed  such  stam- 
ina and  vitality,  as  to  resist  the  wear  and  waste 
of  nearly  a  thousand  years.  So,  many  na- 
tions, under  the  teaching  of  God's  prophets, 
from  the  days  of  Noah  till  the  days  Job,  re- 
tained a  vast  amount  of  moral  stamina,  and 
acquired  such  knowledge  of  the  principles  of 
government,  science,  social  institutions,  and 
civilization  generally,  as  to  survive  the  storms 
of  centuries,  after  they  had  lost  the  knowledge 
of  God.  The  history  of  their  apostasy  is 
graphically  stated  by  St.  Paul — "  When  they 
knew  God,  they  glorified  Him  not  as  God, 
neither  were  thankful ;  but  became  vain  in 
their  imaginations,  and  their  foolish  heart 


84  OUR  SOUTH  AMEKICAN   COUSINS. 

was  darkened/  Professing  themselves  to  be 
wise,  they  became  fools,  and  changed  the 
glory  of  the  uncorruptible  God  into  an  image 
made  like  to  corruptible  man,  and  to  birds, 
and  four-footed  beasts,  and  creeping  things. 
Wherefore,  God  also  gave  them  up  to  unclean- 
ness  through  the  lusts  of  their  own  hearts,  to 
dishonor  their  own  bodies,  and  to  a  reprobate 
mind."  Such  elements  of  corruption  and  of 
disintegration  must  end  in  utter  debasement 
and  ruin ;  but  the  salt,  or  conserving  power  of 
the  few  men  who  fear  God  and  work  right- 
eousness in  every  nation,  and  of  a  few  sound 
principles  of  truth,  give  an  astonishing  vital 
cohesive  force  for  the  preservation  of  the  civil- 
ized nations  of  antiquity. 

The  facts  of  history,  such  as  the  perfection 
of  the  languages  spoken  by  heathen  nations, 
the  vestiges  of  ancient  science  and  architecture 
found  among  them,  go  to  prove  that  the  fur- 
ther we  trace  their  history  back  along  their  an- 
cestral lines  toward  Noah,  who  had  the  knowl- 
edge of  the  true  God,  the  greater  was  their 
power  of  genius  and  achievement ;  thence,  the 
further  down  the  stream  of  heathenism  they 
drift,  the  greater  their  demoralization  and  im- 
becility. 


OUR  ANCIENT  INCA   COUSINS.  85 

At  the  great  Centennial  in  Philadelphia, 
where  the  best  artistic  skill  of  civilized  hea- 
then nations  was  exhibited,  it  was  plainly  mani- 
fest that  in  the  manufacture  of  pottery,  and 
various  articles  in  bronze,  silver,  gold,  and 
ivory,  things  more  ornamental  than  useful,  and 
in  the  manufacture  of  silks,  etc.,  they  displayed 
great  imitative  skill;  but  as  for  remaining 
genius  to  invent  anything  new,  or  of  moral 
power  to  get  out  of  their  old  grooves,  there  was 
no  evidence  of  either ;  hence,  but  for  the  eman- 
cipating power  of  the  Gospel,  enfranchising  na- 
tions once  in  the  chains  of  barbarous  heathen- 
ism, there  would  not  to-day  be  a  steam-engine 
in  the  world,  nor  a  labor-saving  machine  of  any 
sort. 

Ancient  science,  art,  and  civilization  flour- 
ished most  in  the  great  centers  of  population. 
The  adventurers  who  struck  out  new  lines  of 
discovery,  and  opened  up  new  countries  for 
settlement,  would  have  but  a  very  limited 
knowledge  of  the  higher  education  of  their  own 
advanced  men,  and  their  children  born  in  remote 
regions  would  know  still  less,  but  they  could 
readily  retain  and  transmit  some  knowledge  of 
mechanical  arts.  Thus  the  pioneers  of  Asiatic 
emigration  to  North  America  stood  much  in 


86  CUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

the  same  relation  to  their  cultivated  Oriental 
contemporaries  as  our  own  Rocky  Mountain 
trappers  bear  to  the  cultivated  classes  of  the 
great  literary  centers  of  our  population.  The 
Asiatics  who  settled  Mexico  and  South  Amer- 
ica, evidently  came  from  civilized  circles  near 
to  the  centers  and  capitals  of  their  nations. 
They  brought  with  them  a  knowledge  of  civil 
government,  architecture,  and  various  useful 
arts,  and  yet  they  were  not  near  enough  to  the 
centers  of  education  to  secure  and  transplant 
into  the  New  World  the  knowledge  of  letters 

o 

and  of  the  sciences  then  known  in  the  civiliza- 
tions they  had  left  behind. 

The  architecture  of  the  Incas  is  simply  an 
importation  of  Asiatic  architecture,  the  mag- 
nificent ruins  of  which  are  seen  in  all  Asiatic 
countries  to-day. 

The  hardy  adventurers  who  penetrated  the 
forests  and  traversed  the  swamps  of  Europe, 
and  laid  the  foundations  of  its  empires,  had  no 
such  knowledge  of  mechanical  arts  and  of  civil- 
ization as  the  Incas.  They  were  debased  idola- 
ters and  barbarians ;  but  God's  messengers,  first 
from  Palestine  and  Asia  Minor,  came  to  them 
with  Gospel  tidings,  and  the  Inspired  Scrip- 
tures, revealing  to  them  the  Lord  Jesus,  the 


OTJR  ANCIENT  ESTCA   COUSINS.  87 

Divine  Emancipator  of  individual  men,  and  of 
nations;  and  though  their  reception  of  Him 
was  not  so  cordial  and  unanimous  as  it  should 
have  been,  yet  they  struck  for  liberty,  and,  to 
a  large  extent,  gained  it. 

Their  development  of  religious  and  intellec- 
tual freedom  was  imperiled,  and  almost  de- 
feated, by  a  great  apostasy  and  compromise 
with  heathenism ;  and  many  of  the  Christian 
nations  of  Europe  are  still  involved  in  heathen- 
ish complications. 

It  was  a  nation  possessing  this  mixed  or 
partial  Christianity  that  conquered  the  Incas. 
They  had  been  but  partially  recovered  from  a 
depth  of  barbarous  idolatry  that  the  Incas  had 
never  reached.  The  Incas,  to  be  sure,  spiritu- 
ally, were  equally  dark,  but  still  retained  much 
of  their  ancestral  civilization,  the  like  of  which 
the  European  heathens  had  never  possessed; 
but  the  light  of  God  had  shone  upon  the  Span- 
iard, and  hence,  compared  with  his  former  self, 
or  with  any  purely  heathen  people,  he  had  be- 
come a  man  of  might,  with  power  to  break 
down,  but  not  with  power  to  build  up ;  power 
to  destroy,  but  not  to  heal. 

The  Anglo-Saxons,  more  than  any  other 
people  of  the  modem  era,  have  acknowledged 


88  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

and  received  the  Lord  Jesus,  the  only  Saviour 
of  men.  They  willingly  promote  a  free  circu- 
lation of  His  Bible  at  home  and  abroad,  in  all 
lands.  In  proportion  as  they  have  identified 
themselves  with  Him,  and  His  purpose  and 
plan  of  bringing  back  all  the  apostate  nations, 
kindreds,  and  tongues  to  God,  He  has  identi- 
fied Himself  with  them.  He  has  given  into 
their  hands  more  than  half  of  the  territory  of 
the  globe,  together  with  the  command  of  all 
the  seas. 

What  an  ancient  king  said  to  his  son  is  true 
in  all  ages  of  individuals  and  of  nations — "  My 
son,  know  thou  the  God  of  thy  fathers,  and 
serve  Him  with  a  perfect  heart,  and  with  a 
willing  mind.  If  thou  seek  Him,  He  will  be 
found  of  thee,  but  if  thou  forsake  Him,  He  will 
cast  thee  off  forever." 


IV. 

CALLAO LIMA. 

CALLAO  is  the  port,  with  a  population  of 
about  30,000;  Lima,  the  capital,  contains  a 
population  of  1 20,000.  The  two  cities  are  seven 
miles  apart,  connected  by  two  railroads.  After 
a  delightful  voyage  of  eighteen  days  from  New 
York,  we  arrived  in  Callao,  November  3,  1877. 
AVe  land  on  a  splendid  concrete  mole,  984  by 
802  feet,  the  construction  of  which  is  reputed 
to  have  cost  the  French  Government  over 
$8,000,000. 

"What,  the  French?" 

Yes;  in  their  attempts  to  get  a  footing  in 
America  some  years  ago,  they  put  a  line  of 
steamers  on  this  coast,  and  built  these  substan- 
tial piers,  and  own  them  now,  though  their 
steamers  "hauled  off  "  long  ago.  The  work  was 
done  by  English  mechanics,  and  is  utilized  prin- 
cipally by  English  shipping.  Near  by,  on  the 
site  of  old  Callao,  a  fine  city,  destroyed  by  a 
tidal  wave  over  a  hundred  years  ago,  is  "  the 

89 


90  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

factory  "  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.,  with  all  the  great 
shops  and  machinery  required  by  such  a  com- 
pany, employing  four  hundred  men,  about  one 
hundred  of  whom  are  English  and  Scotch  me- 
chanics. 

Between  the  company's  works  and  the  city 
of  Callao  is  the  immense  fortress,  which  cost 
the  Spanish  Government  thirty  millions  of  dol- 
lars. It  is  now  used  in  part  as  a  barracks,  but 
more  as  a  custom-house  and  bonded  warehouse. 
We  put  up  at  the  Commercial  Hotel,  but 
were  soon  taken  in  charge  by  two  kind  gentle- 
men, and  conducted  to  comfortable  rooms  pro- 
vided for  us  in  Washington  Street.  Many  of 
the  streets  are  wide,  laid  smooth  and  solid 
with  "  Oroya  cement,"  and,  differing  from 
most  tropical  towns  I  have  seen,  they  are 
as  clean  as  they  can  be  swept  with  a  broom. 
Nothing  is  allowed  to  be  thrown  on  the  streets, 
not  so  much  as  an  envelope.  No  system  of 
sewerage,  but  scavenger  carts  daily  remove  all 
slops  and  nuisance  from  the  dwellings  of  our 
Callao  cousins.  How  strange  the  houses  ap- 
pear !  Whole  blocks  of  one  and  of  two  story 
buildings,  apparently  unfinished;  no  gables, 
but  all  flat  on  the  top,  covered  with  earth; 
some  simply  with  bamboo  splits.  The  build- 


CALLAO — LIMA.  91 

ings  have  a  substantial  appearance,  painted  in 
varied  bright  colors,  and  some  of  them  beau- 
tiful to  behold ;  but  a  large  proportion  of  them, 
both  here  and  in  Lima,  are  constructed  of 
"wattle  and  daub,"  or,  except  timber  to  sup- 
port the  structure,  the  walls  are  made  of  a 
small  tough  species  of  bamboo,  plastered  with 
a  mortar  made  of  clay,  straw,  and  cow-dung. 
One  India  rain  of  forty-four  hours,  such  as  I 
have  often  seen,  would  leave  nothing  of  these 
cities  but  canebrakes,  mud-holes,  and  mounds ; 
but  this  is  the  country  in  which  the  rains  de- 
scend not,  and  the  floods  never  come.  Nearly 
all  the  houses  of  this  city,  and  I  may  say  of 
all  South  American  cities,  except  the  English 
structures  of  Valparaiso,  are  built  on  the  Ori- 
ental plan.  We  enter  a  court  by  a  door,  or 
more  frequently  by  a  gateway,  through  which 
you  may  drive  a  two-horse  carriage.  The 
court  is  the  center  of  the  dwelling-place ;  from 
each  side  of  the  entrance-way,  and  on  all  sides 
of  the  inner  square,  is  a  continuous  veranda 
facing  the  court.  The  doors  of  nearly  all  the 
apartments  open  directly  on  to  the  veranda. 
Whether  the  house  has  one  or  two  stories 
the  plan  is  the  same,  above  and  below,  with 
stairways  leading  to  the  upper  veranda.  The 


92  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

court,  in  some  cases,  has  a  fountain  and  tank, 
generally  a  flower  garden,  with  orange  trees  and 
other  varieties  of  fruit.  At  night  the  court 
gate  is  shut,  and  the  whole  premises  are  in  the 
main  secure.  The  outside  walls  are  solid,  except 
the  break  of  small  windows,  to  admit  light  and 
air ;  they  are  all  fortified  by  iron  bars,  like  the 
windows  of  a  jail,  so  that  here  "  every  man's 
house  is  his  castle,"  in  which  he  must  be  ready 
to  stand  for  his  life,  or  the  lives  of  his  family, 
against  the  attack  of  thieves  who  may  attempt 
to  "  break  through  and  steal,"  or  revolutionists, 
who  may  come  to  contest  his  rights  to  property 
or  life. 

Lima  is  said  to  cover  fourteen  millions  of 
square  yards  of  ground.  About  one-half  of 
this  area  is  covered  by  private  dwellings,  the 
other  half  by  public  buildings,  churches,  pub- 
lic squares,  with  botanical  and  zoological  gar- 
dens that  would  do  credit  to  any  country,  and 
the  grand  plaza  which  is  five  hundred  feet 
square.  In  the  center  is  a  floral  garden,  and  a 
grand  bronze  fountain.  The  Cathedral  stands 
on  the  east  side,  the  most  imposing  structure 
in  Peru. 

Report  says  there  are  six  thousand  priests 
in  Lima,  but  I  have  not  counted  them.  There 


CALLAO — LIMA.  93 

is  but  one  Protestant  minister,  a  clergyman  of 
the  Church  of  England,  who  has  a  small 
following  of  English  residents,  and  conducts 
services  in  a  private  house.  From  the  great 
number  of  churches  we  see  in  these  cities  we 
might  conclude  that  our  cousins  are  decidedly 
religious.  The  women,  however,  are  the  prin- 
cipal worshipers  in  church.  There  are  no 
seats  here  in  churches  to  seat  a  congrega- 
tion. Each  woman  "  going  to  meeting  "  carries 
with  her  a  rug,  which  she  spreads  on  the 
floor  of  solid  bricks  or  cement,  and  kneels  on 
it.  Go  into  any  of  these  churches  at  the  hour 
for  "  mass,"  and  you  will  see  the  body  of  the 
church  more  than  half  full  of  women,  all 
kneeling  on  their  mats,  erect  as  statues,  with- 
out any  support  for  their  bodies,  except  their 
knees,  each  one  holding  a  little  prayer-book 
in  her  left  hand,  while,  at  every  jingle  of  the 
little  bell  at  the  altar,  she  crosses  her  fore- 
head, breast,  and  face,  and  kisses  her  hand  for 
its  cunning  in  the  ceremony.  There  is  not  a 
bonnet  among  them.  Each  one  wears  a  black 
shawl  of  silk  or  French  merino.  One  corner  is 
drawn  closely  round  the  neck,  making  a  close 
fit  to  the  shoulders,  with  a  hood  for  the  head, 
leaving  the  face  exposed,  and  the  whole  ex- 


94  OUK  SOUTH  AMERICAN"   COUSINS. 

tending  down  to  the  knees.  They  look  to  "  be 
all  in  mourning,"  and  yet  you  are  struck  with 
the  uniformity  and  neatness  of  their  appearance. 
Dr.  Adam  Clarke  speaks  of  a  bit  of  hard 
experience  he  suffered  once  at  a  prayer-meet- 
ing, where  he  kneeled  down  with  no  support 
but  his  two  knees,  and  he  said,  "The  unmer- 
ciful man  prayed  forty  minutes."  The  Doc- 
tor believed  in  penitence,  but  not  in  penance. 
But  these  female  cousins  of  ours  remain  from 
one  to  two  solid  hours,  erect  on  their  knees,  dis- 
playing the  patience  of  Job.  The  few  men  who 
attend,  usually  stand  about  the  door,  and  some 
alonor  the  side  walls.  A  few  are  sometimes 

O 

found  on  their  knees  for  a  few  minutes,  but 
they  can't  stand  it,  and  get  up — a  pity  that 
their  consciences  are  not  as  tender  as  their  knees. 
On  Christmas-eve  we  attend  an  anniversary- 
midnight  mass  to  commemorate  the  birth  of 
the  illustrious  Babe  of  Bethlehem  in  a  stable. 
The  night  is  far  spent,  the  great  audience- 
room  is  packed  almost  to  suffocation;  the 
priests  are  at  the  altar,  mid  the  blaze  of  con- 
secrated candles,  surrounded  by  pictures  and 
statues  of  dead  saints,  and  of  the  Virgin 
Mother  and  her  Son.  Now  an  organ  in  the 
front  gallery  peals  out  a  few  notes  and  rolls 


CALLAO — LIMA.  95 

off  a  tune,  accompanied  by  a  solo  in  a  mas- 
culine voice  of  some  feminine  cousin  of  ours. 
Now  silence  reigns,  except  the  priestly  mutter- 
ings  at  the  altar.  Suddenly  there  is  a  tre- 
mendous breaking  loose  in  the  gallery,  an  awful 
confusion  of  sounds — cymbals,  tin-pans,  horns, 
lowing,  cackling — a  barnyard  scene  imitated, 
a  surprise  at  midnight  among  the  men  and 
fowls  of  a  stable,  it  beggars  description.  It 
suddenly  ceases,  and  after  a  season  of  silence 
the  organ  and  a  solo  singer  take  their  turn ; 
then  a  repetition  of  the  awful  confusion  of 
sounds.  These  go  on  alternately  for  more  than 
an  hour.  Some  of  the  performers  in  the  stable 
scenes  behave  irreverently,  and  the  priest  at 
the  altar  rebukes  them  sharply,  and  troops 
of  them  suddenly  rush  down  the  gallery 
Stan's  like  so  many  horses,  and  leave  the 
premises.  I  hardly  knew  whether  that  was 
incidental,  or  the  closing  scene  of  the  comedy. 
All  the  while  the  women  remain  erect  on 
their  knees  looking  at  a  book  in  their  left, 
and  crossing  themselves  with  their  rio-ht  hands 

o  o 

at  every  signal  from  the  bell-boy  at  the  altar. 
In  front  of  us  stands  an  old  man  holding  a 
little  girl  by  the  hand.  He  looks  around 
about  him,  and  up  to  the  gallery,  and  seems 


96  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

to  take  note  of  everything  that  is  going  on, 
but,  alternately  with  his  general  observations, 
he  utters  his  "  Ave  Marias  "  in  weeping  tones ; 
I  cannot  be  quite  certain  whether  there  was 
a  flow  of  tears  or  not,  but  he  meant  well. 
He  is  evidently  calling  to  remembrance  his 
evil  deeds  and  misspent  hours  which  have 
so  contributed  to  swell  the  records  of  the 
year  just  passing  out.  Poor  old  coz. 

The  Foreigners'  Church  of  Callao  is  a  sub- 
stantial building,  containing  an  audience-room, 
40  by  60  feet,  a  vestry,  and  two  school-rooms. 
About  seventeen  years  ago,  William  Wheel- 
wright, the  founder  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.,  pass- 
ing through  Callao  on  his  way  to  New  York, 
heard  Rev.  J.  A.  Swaney,  an  agent  of  the 
American  Seamen's  Friend  Society,  preach  to 
his  edification,  in  an  inferior  "hired  house," 
and  proposed  that  if  Rev.  Swaney  would  fur- 
nish him  a  plan  and  specifications  of  a  church 
edifice  suitable  for  Callao,  he  would,  on  his 
own  account,  have  it  framed  in  New  York, 
and  send  it  out.  Mr.  Swaney  accordingly  got 
his  friend  Mr.  DeCoursey  to  furnish  the  design 
and  specifications,  and  in  due  time  the  frame 
was  duly  received.  The  friends  in  Callao, 
however,  having  bought  a  lot,  built  a  larger 


CALLAO — LIMA.  97 

and  more  substantial  edifice  than  the  one  con- 
templated, and  worked  all  the  materials  of  Mr. 
Wheelwright's  gift  into  it.  The  property  is 
deeded  to  the  British,  and  American  Consuls, 
and  the  manager  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.,  in  trust  for 
the  foreign  population  of  Callao.  The  man- 
agement is  intrusted  to  six  gentlemen,  elected 
annually  by  a  majority  of  the  subscribers  and 
pew-holders.  Unfortunately  for  the  cause  in 
Callao,  before  the  house  was  completed,  Mr. 
Swaney  returned  to  the  United  States.  He  is 
an  able  minister  of  the  Gospel,  a  prudent,  good 
man,  and  had  he  held  on  in  Callao,  as  Rev.  Dr. 
Trumbull  has  done  in  Valparaiso,  he  might 
have  done  the  great  preparatory  work  for  Peru, 
that  the  other  man  of  God  has  done  for  Chile. 
For  about  fifteen  years  the  Callao  church  has 
been  under  the  pastoral  care  of  different  clergy- 
men of  the  Church  of  England ;  but  on  our 
arrival,  it  was  vacant,  and  had  been  closed  for 
six  weeks.  For  many  years  a  sharp  contention 
has  been  kept  up  between  the  "  church  party  " 
and  the  "non-conformists."  At  the  annuM 
election  last  June,  a  non-conformist  committee 
was  elected,  and  they  opened  negotiations  with 
Dr.  Swaney  to  become  their  pastor,  but  owing  to 
various  unforeseen  causes  of  delay,  the  question 
5 


98  OUE   SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

has  been  in  suspense  ever  since.  Meantime, 
Dr.  Swaney  by  letter  informed  the  committee, 
one  mail  in  advance,  of  my  contemplated  visit, 
so  they  received  us  gladly,  and  I  served  them 
during  a  period  of  two  months.  In  that  time 
I  hunted  up  eighty-five  English-speaking  Pro- 
testant families,  and  made  a  pastoral  list,  and 
tried  to  pour  oil  on  the  troubled  waters. 
Under  very  great  discouragements  we  secured 
an  increase  in  numbers,  and  interest  in  the 
congregations,  and  some  good  was  done.  The 

committee  elected  Bro.  T ,  who  is  an  able 

minister  of  the  Gospel,  to  be  their  pastor  pro 
tern.  The  previous  negotiations  with  Dr. 
Swaney  still  pending,  we  would  not  interfere 
with  them,  except  to  see  that  the  pulpit  should 
not  be  left  without  a  minister. 

The  Pope's  Nuncio  arrived  a  few  days  after 
I  commencd  work  in  Callao,  and  promulgated 
an  order,  published  in  the  Spanish  papers,  to 
close  the  Callao  Protestant  Church.  We  paid 
no  attention  to  the  order,  nor  did  the  local  au- 
thorities, so  the  church  was  not  closed,  but  the 
Nuncio  soon  found  that  his  own  position  was 
not  quite  secure,  for  though  he  was  received 
by  the  Peruvian  Government,  the  "  diplo- 
matic corps"  of  other  nations  at  the  capital 


CALLAO — LIMA.  99 

refused  to  recognize  him.  The  point  they 
made  was,  that  since  the  Pope  had  lost  his 
temporal  power,  he  was  not  a  sovereign,  nor 
head  of  any  nation,  and  therefore  had  no 
right  of  representation  in  the  councils  of  any 
civil  government. 

Eight  thousand  persons  have  been  buried 
in  the  foreigners'  cemetery  during  the  last 
twelve  years — Protestants,  principally  English 
and  German.  What  a  body  of  buried  agency 
that  should  have  been  utilized  for  God  in 
"  spreading  scriptural  holiness  "  through  these 
lands ! 

Five  bulls  are  killed  in  Callao  every  Sunday, 
specially  in  the  interest  of  some  church,  or 
public  charity.  Each  bull-bait  is  placarded  on 
large  wall-papers,  with  highly-colored  pictures 
of  bulls  and  lions  engaged  in  mortal  combat. 
Shooting,  boat-racing,  cock-fighting,  and  mis- 
cellaneous pleasure-taking,  make  up,  for  the 
most  part,  the  exercises  of  the  Lord's  day  in 
this  country.  Unfortunately  the  foreigners, 
who  should  truly  represent  the  great  Chris- 
tian nations  to  which  they  belong,  are  too 
apt  to  slide  down  into  these  barbarous  cus- 
toms ;  but  they  have  been  as  sheep  without 
a  shepherd. 


100  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

I  will  tell  you  before  we  leave  Callao  how 
Satan  put  it  into  the  heart  of  one  of  his  ser- 
vants to  shoot  me,  and  put  a  stop  to  the  fur- 
ther extension  of  my  self-supporting  missions. 
Bro.  T is  a  practical  and  scientific  geolo- 
gist, and  for  our  needful  exercise  we  often 
strolled  on  the  south  beach,  gathering  rare  geo- 
logical specimens  of  volcanic  rocks. 

On  the  morning  of  December  17,  1877,  as 
we  sat  by  the  sea-shore,  we  saw  about  half  a 
mile  east  of  us  a  trooper  dash  up  to  the  bluff, 
followed  by  armed  foot-soldiers.  They  came 
by,  two  and  two,  about  every  hundred  yards, 
evidently  intending  to  cover  the  whole  line 
of  coast  back  to  the  city. 

As  we  sat  watching  their  movements,  not 
suspecting  personal  peril,  two  soldiers  with 
their  breech-loading  rifles  came  to  the  bluff 
opposite,  and  distant  from  us  about  forty 
yards.  They  halted  and  stood  looking  at  us. 
In  a  few  moments,  two  more  came  to  view 
west  of  us,  and  distant  about  seventy-five 
yards.  As  soon  as  they  caught  sight  of  us, 
one  of  them,  an  intoxicated  Indian,  cocked 
his  rifle,  and  in  a  half -bent  position,  with  his 
gun  elevated  ready  for  an  aim,  he  ran  down 
the  ridge  of  rubble  stones  toward  us,  till  he 


CALLAO — LIMA.  101 

reached  more  level  standing-ground,  and  then 
stopped  and  took  aim  at  us.  We  sprang  to 
our  feet,  and  held  up  our  hands  to  show  him 
that  we  had  nothing,  and  were  unarmed.  He 
then  ran  about  ten  steps  toward  us,  and  took 
aim  from  his  knee.  Not  satisfied  with  that 
chance  for  a  sure  shot,  he  ran  about  ten  steps 
nearer,  and  aimed  at  us  again,  and  then  about 
ten  steps  still  nearer,  bringing  the  savage 
within  thirty  steps  of  us.  There,  with  a  rest 
from  his  knee,  and  as  deliberate  an  aim  as  a 
soldier  maddened  with  rum  can  take,  he 
leveled  his  rifle  at  us.  His  fellow,  and  the 
two  soldiers  opposite,  stood  looking  to  see  him 
shoot  one  or  both  of  us.  I  saw  from  their  at- 
titude that  if  we  should  attempt  either  to  run, 
or  to  resist,  the  whole  quaternion  of  them 
would  fire  at  us.  This  was  all  the  work  of  a 
minute.  I  could  not  get  my  nerves  shaken  with 
fear  in  so  short  a  time,  but  I  thought  fast.  I 
did  not  believe  that  God  would  deliver  either 
of  us  to  the  "  bloody  and  deceitful  men,"  but 
I  had  to  do  something,  so  I  advanced  rapidly 
on  the  Indian  aiming  at  us.  I  curved  a  little 
to  the  left  to  avoid  his  direct  range,  and 
crossed  with  quick  steps  to  the  right,  passing 
the  muzzle  of  his  gun  but  a  few  feet  distant, 


102  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

to  give  me  vantage-ground  for  seizing  liim. 
When  nearly  within  arm's  length  he  sprang  to 
his  feet,  and  I  grasped  the  barrel  of  his  rifle. 
My  impulse  was  to  wrest  it  from  his  hands 
and  throw  it  into  the  sea,  and  lay  him  level 
with  the  ground,  and  I  knew  I  had  the  power 
to  do  it ;  but  I  felt  certain  in  such  a  defense  of 
myself  the  other  savages  would  fire  on  me ;  so, 
as  quietly  as  possible,  I  simply  controlled  his 
gun,  so  that  he  could  not  shoot  either  of  us. 
Meantime  I  said,  "  Amigos,  amigos," — Friends, 
friends.  He  then  trailed  his  gun  in  his  left 
hand,  and  shook  hands  with  me,  but  imme- 
diately drew  up  his  gun  to  get  a  pull  at  Bro. 

T ,  who  had  followed  close  after  me ;  but  I 

again  seized  the  barrel  of  his  rifle,  and  would 
not  allow  him  to  get  an  aim,  saying  to  him, 
"  Este  mi  hermano ;  este  mi  hermano," — That 
is  my  brother ;  that  is  my  brother.  He  then 
-sprang  back  and  tried  to  get  another  aim  at 
me,  but  I  closed  upon  him,  and  held  his  gun 
firmly,  saying,  "  Americanos  amigos,  Ameri- 
canos amigos," — American  friends,  American 
friends. 

He  seemed  intent  on  killing,  at  least,  one  of 
us,  especially  as  the  others  were  looking  to  see 
him  do  it ;  but  now  he  was  cornered,  and  shook 


CALLAO — LIMA.  103 

hands  with  us  both.  Then  he  let  down  the 
hammer  of  his  rifle,  and  began  to  jabber  to  us 
in  a  lingo  that  we  understood  not,  when  one 
of  the  soldiers  on  the  bluff,  who  had  watched 
the  whole  transaction,  called  him,  and  they 
all  marched  off  together.  We  sat  down  and 
waited  till  the  coast  was  all  clear,  and  returned 
to  our  quarters.  We  learned  afterward  that 
they  were  in  pursuit  of  thieves.  To  excite 
their  valor,  as  in  a  revolutionary  expedition, 
they  must  needs  get  furiously  drunk ;  and  not 
finding  any  thieves,  the  next  thing  was  to  kill 
an  honest  man  or  two.  If  they  could  have 
got  an  excuse,  by  our  resistance  or  attempt  at 
flight,  for  firing  on  us,  they  would  have  had  a 
great  story  to  tell  of  how  they  routed  and  dis- 
patched the  thieves.  No  thanks  to  them  that 
life  and  reputation  had  not  both  been  sacri- 
ficed together.  No  coroners  in  Peru.  It  is 
enough  to  know  there  that  a  man  is  dead.  If 
I  had  my  way  with  them,  I  would  have  them 
all  converted  to  God.  They  need  it. 

But  we  must  not  leave  Callao  yet,  as  though 
we  were  frightened  by  an  unseemly  use  of 
breech-loading  rifles. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Rev.  Padr6 
Vaughn  here.  He  belongs  to  a  high-class 


104  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

English  family  of  wealth,  but  is  a  humble,  hard- 
working man  of  God,  He  has  devoted  many- 
years  to  traveling  and  useful  labors  among  all 
the  various  nations  of  South  America.  Some 
years  since  he  collected  funds  there,  for  the 
purpose  of  printing  Bibles  and  Testaments  in 
the  Spanish  language,  for  circulation  among  the 
peoples  of  South  America.  The  Testaments 
have  been  issued  by  Samuel  Bagster  &,  Co., 
and,  under  the  sanction  of  the  Pope,  and  many 
bishops  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  are  for 
sale  to  the  natives  in  nearly  all  the  cities  of 
this  continent.  Five  thousand  copies  of  them 
have  been  brought  to  Callao  since  my  arrival. 
The  great  miraculous  events  recorded  are  illus- 
trated by  wood-cuts.  They  are  sold  at  a  very 
cheap  rate,  and  are  being  circulated  freely. 
We  have  a  Brother  and  Sister  Peterson  in  Cal- 
lao, humble  servants  of  God,  who  are  doing 
much  to  spread  the  Word  of  God,  and  to  bear 
witness  for  Jesus. 

Since  my  return  to  New  York,  I  have  re- 
ceived a  letter  from  Bro.  T ,  whom  I  left 

there  to  hold  the  fort,  in  which  he  says  :  "  When 
will  Christianity  in  its  purity  dawn  on  these 
lands  ?  A  person  cannot  help  liking  the  natives 
of  this  countiy,  notwithstanding  their  faults  and 


CALLAO — LIMA.  105 

vices.  In  the  name  of  humanity,  what  advan- 
tages have  they  had  ?  But  they  will  be  reached 
by  the  Gospel,  and  embrace  a  true  faith. 
Padre  Vaughn  has  done  a  good  work.  They 
read  his  Testaments  with  deep  interest.  The  de- 
mand is  greater  than  the  supply.  I  have  given 
all  mine  away.  The  natives  really  are  more 
accessible  than  the  foreigners.  Mrs.  Peterson 
is  a  missionary  among  the  natives.  She  visits 
the  nunneries  and  hospitals,  and  tells  them  all 
of  the  saving  power  of  Jesus.  She  went  to 
hear  the  bishop  last  Sunday,  and  had  a  long 
talk  with  him  on  experimental  religion.  He 
told  her  that  he  would  get  Padre  Vaughn  to 
supply  her  with  all  the  Testaments  she  could 
distribute.  A  brighter  day  is  dawning  for  the 
Eoman  Catholics  of  South  America."  The 
bishop  referred  to  is  a  Roman  Catholic ;  Padre 

Vaughn,  a  priest  of  that  church ;  Mrs.  P ,  a 

Scandinavian   Lutheran,   and  the  reporter  a 
Methodist  minister. 
5* 


V. 

MOLLEINDO. 

LEAVING  Callao,  January  3d,  1878, 1  embark- 
ed for  Mollendo  in  the  steamship  Aconcagua. 
This  floating  palace,  one  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.'s 
ships,  which  runs  from  Callao  to  Liverpool,  is 
431  feet  long,  42  feet  wide,  with  a  registry  of 
4,106  tons.  Her  time  from  Callao  to  Valpa- 
raiso, 1,500  miles,  is  about  ten  days,  stopping 
at  many  ports  for  freight,  principally  bar  silver 
and  copper.  From  Valparaiso  to  Liverpool, 
including  stoppages,  thirty-nine  days. 

We  have  among  our  passengers  the  wife  and 
four  little  daughters  of  President  Pardo,  of 
Peru,  going  to  join  him  in  Chile.  They  are 
sociable  and  sensible.  I  made  the  acquaintance 
on  this  trip  of  a  Peruvian  cousin  of  ours,  a  fine 
specimen  of  a  gentleman,  a  merchant  from 
Arequipa,  who  kindly  invited  me  to  go  home 
with  him.  He  had  been  recently  married  to  a 
Bolivian  lady,  and  was  on  his  way  to  meet  her 

106 


MOLLEXDO.  107 

for  the  first  time  as  his  wife.  It  is  lawful  in 
this  country  to  get  married  by  proxy ;  so  this 
gentleman,  not  having  time  to  travel  so  far  to 
participate  in  the  ceremony,  gave  a  gentleman 
friend  authority  to  get  married  for  him,  and 
send  the  lady  over  the  Andes  to  the  man  really 
meant. 

On  this  little  voyage  I  became  acquainted 
with  Mr.  H.  Parkman.  He  is  a  tall,  square,  no- 
ble-looking man,  a  Christian  of  the  Presbyterian 
school,  a  conscientious,  good  man,  and  a  tee- 
totaler. He  represents  twelve  Philadelphia 
hardware  manufacturing  establishments  of 
twelve  different  varieties  of  hardware.  They 
pay  him  two  thousand  dollars  per  month  to 
open  a  market  for  their  wares,  which  are  of 
the  latest  and  best  improvements,  and  all  of 
the  best  quality.  He  has  a  ton  of  specimens 
with  him.  He  has  spent  some  weeks  in  Lima, 
and  received  orders  for  fifteen  thousand  dollars' 
worth  of  his  wares,  cash  to  be  paid  into  the  bank 
on  receipt  of  the  invoices,  which  are  forwarded 
to  the  banker.  He  only  stops  in  the  large 
cities ;  I  stop  at  all  the  small  ones  as  well.  He 
gets  high  wages  to  put  in  the  hardware — a  good 
thing  in  its  way.  I  pay  my  own  expenses  and 
work  for  nothing,  for  the  love  I  have  for  my 


108  OUK  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

dear  cousins  who  sit  in  comparative  darkness. 
I  want  them  to  become  acquainted  with  the 
sinner's  friend,  my  loving  Saviour. 

Bro.  Parkman  was  asked  one  Sabbath  in 
Lima,  by  a  merchant  from  the  State  of  Maine, 
to  go  with  him  to  a  bull-bait. 

"I  am  astonished  and  horrified,"  replied 
Parkman,  "to  find  such  a  man  as  you,  with 
your  superior  Christian  education,  going  to  a 
bull-fight  on  the  Lord's  day." 

On  another  Sabbath  a  man  asked  him  to  ac- 
company him  to  a  masquerade  ball.  The  man 
from  Maine  spoke  up  and  said,  "  It's  no  use 
to  ask  Parkman  to  go  to  a  ball.  I  asked  him 
last  Sunday  to  go  with  me  to  a  bull-fight,  and 
he  gave  me  the  biggest  blowing  up  I  ever  got 
in  this  country." 

"  Go  to  a  masquerade  ball,"  responded  Park- 
man, "  among  a  lot  of  licentious  men  and  wo- 
men, so  corrupt  that  they  are  ashamed  to  let 
their  faces  be  recognized,  and  hence  mask  them. 
I've  got  a  wife  and  daughter  in  Philadelphia. 
Suppose  I  should  go  with  you  to  a  masquerade 
ball  and  get  into  collision  with  some  ruffian  and 
get  shot,  and  the  news  go  home  to  my  wife 
and  daughter !  not  to  speak  of  my  responsibility 
to  God." 


MOLLEXDO.  109 

I  was  glad  to  meet  such  a  man  as  that  from 
my  country ;  the  Lord  bless  him. 

Mollendo  is  300  miles  south  of  Callao,  ir- 
regularly built  on  hills  and  hollows,  faced  by 
precipitous  bluffs,  overlooking  the  rocks  and 
breakers  of  the  roadstead.  It  cannot  lay  claim 
to  be  a  harbor,  except  a  little  cove,  as  a  land- 
ing-place, formed  by  a  small  island  to  the 
south.  It  is  a  new  place,  without  pavement  or 
sidewalks,  and  just  like  a  pioneer  mining  town 
in  California.  The  mountains  in  the  back- 
ground are  covered  with  green  grass,  a  veiy 
unusual  sio;ht  in  Peru. 

O 

This  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  "Mol- 
lendo, Arequipa  and  Puno  "  railroad,  measur- 
ing from  Mollendo  to  Puno  a  distance  of  324 
miles.  The  road  to  Arequipa,  107  miles,  was 
built  by  Henry  Meiggs  in  less  than  three 
years'  time,  at  a  cost  of  thirteen  millions  of  sil- 
ver dollars.  The  road  thence  to  Puno,  217 
miles,  was  built  in  less  than  four  years,  at 
a  cost  of  twenty-seven  millions  of  dollars. 
Henry  Meiggs  was  contractor  for  this  also,  but 

sublet  it  to  Mr.  C ,  who,  'tis  said,  cleared 

eight  million  dollars  on  the  job.  To  give 
an  idea  of  this  stupendous  work,  the  blasting 
on  the  two  sections  of  the  road  through  to  Puno 


110  OTJE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

consumed  three  million  pounds  of  powder; 
not  a  tunnel  to  dim  the  prospect  on  the  whole 
line,  and  yet,  by  horseshoe  curves  and  zigzag 
climbing,  it  ascends  heavenward  to  the  alti- 
tude of  14,660  feet.  I  have  traveled  over  part 
of  the  road,  and  counted  from  one  standpoint 
four  ascending  tracks  on  a  single  mountain 

o  o 

face.  Troy  cars  and  New  Jersey  locomotives, 
it  seems  home-like. 

Arequipa  is  the  second  city  of  Peru,  with  a 
population  of  40,000,  at  an  elevation  of  7,560 
feet  above  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is  located  near 
the  base  of  Mount  Misti,  which  rises  to  the 
height  of  18,538  feet  above  sea  level.  Mount 
Misti  is  an  active  volcano.  Its  fires  for  many 
years  were  supposed  to  be  extinct,  but  now 
from  twenty-six  apertures,  down  at  the  bot- 
tom of  her  great  crater,  emissions  of  steam  ob- 
servable are  causing  great  apprehensions  of 
peril  among  the  40,000  denizens  below.  The 
sudden  flow  of  a  river  of  burning  lava,  with  a 
head  of  over  18,000  feet,  would  not  give  to 
the  people  of  Arequipa  half  the  chance  of  the 
people  of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  to  escape. 
Puno,  with  a  population  of  6,000,  occupies 
an  elevation  of  12,547  feet  above  the  sea,  on 
the  shore  of  Lake  Titicaca,  the  fabled  source 


MOLLENDO.  Ill 

of  the  Incas.-  Two  steamers  on  this  lake, 
which  is  120  miles  long,  with  an  average 
width  of  twenty-five  miles,  connects  part  of 
the  traffic  of  Bolivia  with  the  Pacific  Ocean  at 
Mollendo. 

A  railroad  from  Juliaca,  thirty  miles  this  side 
of  Puno,  to  Cusco,  a  distance  of  259  miles,  was 
contracted  by  Henry  Meiggs,  and  sublet  to  my 
friend,  Mr.  T—  — ,  who  has  completed  86  miles 
of  it,  and  is  now  proceeding  with  the  work. 

Among  the  wonders  of  this  place  is  an  aque- 
duct of  eight-inch  pipe  tapping  the  Arequi- 
pa  river,  thirteen  miles  below  the  city,  and 
extending  through  to  Mollendo,  a  distance  of 

O  O  7 

ninety-four  miles.  It  supplies  all  the  sta- 
tions on  that  stretch  of  line  with  water,  and  be- 
sides that,  deposits  daily  into  Mollendo  300,000 
gallons  of  delicious  water  fresh  from  Andes 
snow. 

This  great  work  also  was  undertaken  by 
Henry  Meiggs  for  the  sjim  of  $3,000,000,  and 

sublet   to   Messrs.   J's   and   Thos.    H at 

$2,800,000,  and  they  cleared  $800,000.  Mr. 
Meiggs  always  received  a  high  price  for  his 
work,  but  in  return  put  in  the  best  materials, 
and  executed  the  work  most  substantially 
and  elegantly. 


112  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

The  workshops  of  this  great  line  are  located 
at  Mollendo,  and  employ  a  large  number  of 
English  and  American  mechanics.  The  wages 
paid  are  as  follows:  Engineers,  $250  per 
mouth ;  machinists,  $150  on  an  average ;  fire- 
men, natives,  $90;  conductors,  $100;  clerks 
from  $100  to  $150;  treasurer,  $250.  My 
friend,  Mr.  S.  B.  Barnes,  superintendent  of 
motive-power  both  in  the  shops  and  on  the 
road,  receives  $450  per  month.  These  were 
the  prices  in  paper  currency  when  it  was  at  par 
in  the  market.  The  currency  has  depreciated 
more  than  one-third  from  par  value,  but  the 
wages  have  not  been  increased,  nor  have  the 
fares  on  the  road.  It  may  be  readily  seen  that 
this  little  town,  not  only  for  its  own  sake,  but 
as  a  strategic  base,  for  self-supporting  educa- 
tional and  evangelizing  work  in  regions  be- 
yond, is  a  point  of  great  importance. 

I  arrived  in  Molleudo,  Saturday,  January 

5th.  Mr.  R ,  the  British  Consul,  received 

me  very  kindly,  and  I  had  my  head-quarters 

with  him  at  the  house  of  my  friend,  Mr.  S , 

the  P.  S.  N.  Co.'s  agent,  who  has  recently  buried 
liis  wife,  leaving  him  and  "little  Pat,"  their 
youngest,  in  very  lonely  bereavement.  In 
company  with  Mr.  B ,  I  visited  most  of  the 


MOLLENDO.  113 

people  Saturday  night,  and  preached  to  a 
small  but  very  attentive  congregation  on  Sab- 
bath. On  Monday,  A.  M.,  assisted  by  my  friend 
M.  B ,  I  made  up  a  subscription  for  pas- 
sage and  guarantee  of  support  for  a  man  of 
God  from  the  United  States. 

I  had  brought  some  little  blank  books  with 
me  from  New  York.  In  one  of  these  I  wrote 
the  following  simple  proposal:  "Believing  a 
school  teacher,  and  a  Gospel  minister  to  be 
greatly  needed  in  Mollendo,  I  propose  to  send 
hither  a  competent  man,  combining  in  himself 
the  two-fold  character  of  teacher  and  preacher. 
The  first  engagement  to  cover  a  period  of 
at  least  three  years.  I  respectfully  ask  the 
friends  of  this  movement  to  contribute  the 
funds  for  passage  and  a  guarantee  for  support 
till  the  school  shall  become  self-supporting. 
It  will  require  $330  paper  currency  for  passage, 
and  at  least  $150  per  month  for  sustentation. 
"  Respectfully  submitted, 

"War.  TAYLOR. 

"MOLLEXDO,  June  7,  1877. 

"  We,  the  undersigned,  concur  in  Mr. 
Taylor's  proposal,  and  agree  to  pay  the  sums 
we  here  subscribe,  for  the  purposes  named, 


114  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

and  do  all  else  we  can  to  make  the  undertak- 
ing a  success."  Then  followed  the  double  list 
of  subscribers. 

My  first  call  was  on  an  American  railroad 
contractor. 

Said  he :  "  I  am  a  Roman  Catholic,  and  don't 
wish  to  put  down  my  name,  but  I  will  give 
$50  (soles)  to  bring  the  man  out,  and  $100 
(soles)  if  you  require  it,  and  $30  (soles)  per 
mouth  for  his  support."  (A  sole  is  a  Peruvian 
paper  dollar  as  good  as  gold  a  few  years  ago, 
but  now  worth  about  seventy  cents.)  That 
was  my  first  financial  strike  in  South  America. 
I  next  went  to  another  extensive  contractor, 
a  Scotchman,  in  whose  family  I  enjoyed  a  gen- 
erous hospitality. 

He  said:  "I'll  guarantee  $150  per  month 
to  support  a  man  of  the  right  sort,  myself." 

"  I  am  greatly  obliged  by  your  kind  offer, 
but  I  want  to  interest  all  the  people  of  the 
town  in  him ;  and  the  only  way  to  do  that  from 
the  start  is  to  let  them  take  stock  in  him.  The 
principle  may  be  illustrated  by  a  little  chimney- 
sweep running  down  street  in  New  York  in 
the  midst  of  a  furious  snowstorm.  Some  one 
shouted, l  Ho,  Jack  !  which  way  are  you  going  ? ' 
'  I,  going  to  the  missionary  meeting.  I've  got 


MOLLENDO.  115 

a  share  in  the  concern.  I  gave  a  shilling  last 
Sunday.'  So  we  want  every  person  available 
in  this  town  to  have  a  share  in  this  concern." 

We  then  called  on  shopkeepers,  railway 
men,  and  others,  who  subscribed  the  passage- 
money  required,  also  the  monthly  stipend, 
leaving  my  liberal  friend  but  $28  instead  of 
$150  per  month  to  pay.  I  wrote  in  the  little 
book  my  thankful  acceptance  of  their  liberality, 
and  the  closing  of  the  agreement,  naming  three 
gentlemen  as  a  committee  and  school-board  to 
collect  the  funds  and  make  all  necessary  ar- 
rangements for  carrying  our  plans  into  effect. 


VI. 

AEICA   AND   TACNA. 

ON  the  8th  of  January  we  sweep  through 
the  roaring  serf  at  Mollendo,  and  embark  on 
the  steamship  Ayacucho,  2,200  tons  register, 
and  in  fifteen  hours  we  cast  anchor  in  the 
roadstead  of  Arica,  560  miles  south  of  Callao. 
I  present  my  papers  to  Geo.  H.  Nugent  Esq., 
British  and  American  Consul,  a  tall,  command- 
ing, fine-looking  man.  He  receives  me  very 
kindly,  but  sees  no  hope  of  employing  either 
school-teacher  or  preacher  in  Arica,  and  thinks 
it  impossible  for  me  to  do  anything  in 
Tacna,  The  thought  strikes  me,  "I  had 
better  not  waste  time  here,  but  return  to  the 
steamer  and  proceed  to  Iquique,  the  next 
point  on  my  list  of  places  to  be  visited ; "  but 
having  heard  in  Callao  that  the  merchants  of 
Tacna  were  an  enterprising,  noble  class  of  men, 
I  could  not  consent  to  pass  them  without  an 
effort  to  do  them  good. 

116 


ABICA  A]STD   TACISA.  117 

'No  train  to  Tacna  till  3  P.M.,  and  with  sev- 
eral intervening  hours  on  my  hands,  I  must 
do  something ;  so  under  the  burning  heat  of  a 
tropical  sun,  the  hot  sand  almost  crisping  my 
shoe-leather,  I  climbed  a  mountain  overlook- 
ing the  sea.  Its  summit  brings  me  within  the 

O  O 

sweep  of  the  southwest  trade  winds  that  blow 
daily  along  this  coast.  How  refreshing  to  the 
wayworn  traveler !  Here  we  get  a  grand  view 
of  the  distant  Andes  heights,  and  the  inter- 
vening desert  wastes.  Beneath  our  feet  is  the 
town  of  Arica,  containing  a  population  of  about 
3,000  souls.  We  count  five  main  streets  at 
right  angles  from  the  shore,  intersected  by 
about  the  same  number.  About  three  miles 
north  we  see  on  an  arid  plain  the  United  States 
war-steamer  the  Wateree.  For  a  wonder  in 
this  desert  land,  we  see  on  the  north  border 
of  the  town  a  few  acres  of  garden  land  covered 
with  vegetable  products,  and  a  variety  of  trop- 
ical fruit-trees.  The  percolating  waters  of  an 
invisible  river,  seeking  an  underground  passage 
from  the  mountains  to  the  sea,  are  tapped  by 
means  of  wells,  and  utilized  by  the  gardeners. 

The  houses  and  courts  are,  as  usual  in  this 
country,  of  the  Oriental  style,  built  of  adobes, 
sun-dried  brick,  the  most  of  them  but  one 


118  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

stoiy  in  height.  Among  the  exceptions  to 
this  class  of  buildings  is  a  large  two-story 
mansion  of  Mr.  Alexander  McLean,  built  of 
dressed  stone.  Mr.  McLean  is  a  Scotch  gen- 
tleman, who  has  resided  here  over  forty  years ; 
his  wife  is  a  fine  specimen  of  a  native  lady,  of  a 
rugged,  hardy  type,  who,  though  an  old  grand- 
mother, wears  the  fresh  appearance  and  mani- 
fests the  vigor  of  a  young  woman  in  Scotland. 
These  are  the  honored  heads  of  a  large  re- 
spectable family  connection  residing  in  this 
region  of  country. 

The  principal  church  edifice  of  the  town  is 
an  iron  structure  from  New  York.  Some 
years  age  the  President  of  Peru,  His  Excel- 
lency Don  Balta,  dispatched  a  special  messen- 
ger to  the  United  States  with  an  appropriation 
of  $200,000  to  be  invested  in  the  construction 
of  a  church  of  the  best  style  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, to  be  shipped  and  put  up  at  Ancon,  a 
fashionable  watering-place  north  of  Lima. 

Poor  President  Balta  did  not  live  to  see  his 
beautiful  American  church.  His  Minister  of 
War,  and  two  of  his  brothers  who  were  colonels 
in  the  army,  had  been  taken  up  by  Senor  Balta 
from  a  low  station  in  life,  and  thus  promoted  to 
honor.  They  proved  themselves  to  have  been 


AEICA   AND   TACNA.  119 

frozen  snakes  warmed  into  life  in  the  bosom 
of  their  benefactor. 

They  concocted  a  revolution,  which  broke 
out  in  July,  1871.  The  said  Minister  of  War 
assassinated  the  President  as  he  sat  unarmed 
in  the  executive  mansion.  He  then  by  his  rebel 
troops  seized  the  garrison,  dispersed  the  Senate 
and  Congress  then  in  session,  and  put  a  heavy 
cannon  in  position  to  pour  a  deadly  volley 
upon  the  city.  One  of  his  officers,  shocked 
at  the  thought  of  the  promiscuous  slaughter 
of  unoffending  men,  women,  and  children, 
dared  to  remonstrate  against  the  order.  In- 
stantly the  arch  rebel  shot  him,  and  in  the 
next  moment  received  a  fatal  shot  himself 
from  an  unknown  aim.  The  murdered  and 
the  murderer  fell  dead  almost  in  the  same 
second  of  time, 

It  was  supposed  that  the  sudden  retribution 
was  occasioned  by  a  stray  shot  from  without, 
but  a  man  who  witnessed  the  tragedy  told  me 
that  one  of  his  own  soldiers  shot  him.  The 
rebellion  was  extinguished  during  the  night  of 
the  day  in  which  it  broke  out.  The  next  day 
the  dead  bodies  of  the  three  rebel  brothers 
were  exposed  in  the  streets  to  the  scorn  of  the 
populace,  and  then  were  burned. 


120  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICA^f   COUSINS. 

President  Balta's  fine  cliurcli  had  not  yet 
arrived.  The  ship  containing  it,  like  the 
Peruvian  ship  of  state,  suffered  a  reverse,  and 
had  to  return  to  New  York,  and  at  great  cost 
transfer  the  church  to  another  vessel.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  President's  untimely  death,  the 
church  was  not  taken  to  Ancon,  but  was  land- 
ed at  Callao,  and  thence  by  means  of  steamers 
brought  in  detached  parts  and  finally  erected 
here  in  Arica,  As  it  now  stands,  it  cost  the 
Government,  as  I  am  informed  by  a  resident 
who  knows  the  whole  history  of  it,  half  a 
million  of  dollars.  The  cost  of  such  an  edifice 
in  New  York  would  be  about  fifty  thousand. 
I  attended  mass  in  it  one  Sabbath  morning. 
In  the  midst  of  surrounding  darkness,  there  on 
my  knees,  I  had  sweet  communion  with  Him 
who  is  the  light  of  the  world.  About  sixty 
of  our  female  cousins  maintained  their  erect 
kneeling  posture  for  more  than  an  hour,  while 
a  few  men  stood  round  gazing  at  the  perform- 
ance. A  dear  feminine  cousin  near  me  sighed 
deeply,  and  to  relieve  her  weak  knees,  occasion- 
ally sat  on  the  floor,  but  resumed  her  kneeling 
posture  at  each  ringing  of  the  little  bell  at  the 
altar,  and  repeated  the  ceremony  of  "  crossing." 
I  repeated  the  twenty-second  Psalm,  and  got 


AEICA  AND  TACNA.  121 

through  with  my  prayers  in  less  than  half  the 
time,  and  got  a  comfortable  seat,  and  waited 
till  the  service  closed. 

It  is  said  that  one  night  Mr.  Wesley  chanced 
to  bed  with  a  fellow  clergyman.  Wesley  spent 
a  short  time  in  prayer,  retired,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  was  sound  asleep.  His  companion 
spent  an  hour  in  reading  his  lessons  and  pray- 
ers, and  then  roused  Wesley  from  his  slumbers, 
and  administered  to  him  a  reproof,  saying: 
"What  presumption  in  a  man  like  you  to 
make  such  a  show  of  piety  in  the  world  as 
you  do !  You  came  in  here,  and  got  into  bed 
in  five  minutes  and  went  to  sleep,  while  I  have 
been  engaged  in  my  devotions  for  an  hour." 

Wesley  replied,  with  a  smile,  "You  get  so 
far  behind  with  your  prayers,  it  takes  an  hour 
every  night  to  make  up  lost  time,  but  I  keep 
prayed  up."  I  find  it  a  good  thing  to  "  keep 
prayed  up,"  or  as  St.  Paul  puts  it,  to  "  pray 
without  ceasing ; "  such  live  in  the  spirit  of 
prayer,  and  abide  in  momently  union  with 
Jesus,  as  the  branch  in  the  vine,  and  they  are 
the  persons  who  most  delight  to  "enter  into 
their  closet  and  pray  to  their  Father,"  and  par- 
ticipate in  the  sacred  services  of  the  sanctuary. 
For  many  years  I  have  been  in  the  habit  occasion- 


122  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

ally  of  going  into  the  assemblies  of  our  Roman 
Catholic  brethren  and  sisters,  to  kneel  down 
with  them  to  pray  for  them  and  for  myself, 
and  if  they  had  the  freedom  of  the  Jewish  syn- 
agogue, where  "  the  Scriptures  were  read  every 
Sabbath  day,"  and  should  say  to  me,  "  If  you 
have  any  word  of  exhortation,  brother,  say 
on,"  I  should  be  glad  to  tell  them  that  the  per- 
sonal, living  Lord  Jesus  had,  according  to  the 
purpose  of  His  coming,  saved  me  from  my  sins. 

As  I  am  not  allowed  to  do  that,  I  can  only 
pray  for  them,  and  on  all  suitable  occasions 
show  them  the  sympathy  and  love  the  Saviour 
hath  put  into  my  heart  for  all  the  families  of 
the  earth.  "Why  should  not  the  warm  sym- 
pathy and  love  of  every  saved  one  go  with  the 
Saviour's  blessing  into  every  household  in  the 
world,  for  "in  Him  shall  all  the  families  of  the 
earth  be  blessed"?  Universal  kindness  to  all 
men  does  not  necessarily  mean  concurrence 
with  the  wrong  theories  or  practices  of  any 
man.  The  God-man  sat  down  and  ate  with 
publicans  and  sinners,  and  did  not  insult  them 
by  any  obtrusive,  untimely  attack  upon  their 
errors  and  wickedness,  and  yet  he  did  not  com- 
promise the  truth,  nor  endorse  their  errors,  but 
by  his  winning  ways  and  wisdom  he  induced 


ARICA  AND  TACNA.  123 

them  to  open  the  doors  of  their  hearts,  and 
light  from  heaven  entered,  and  thus  they  saw 
their  errors  and  their  sins,  and  felt  a  heaven- 
wrought  desire  to  be  led  to  a  better  life. 

Arica  is  a  place  greatly  distinguished  for 
its  sublime  earthquakes  and  tidal  waves. 
From  Mr.  Squier's  able  work  on  the  Incas, 
published  by  Harper  Brothers,  I  copy  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  the  earthquake  of  1868, 
written  by  an  officer  of  the  U.  S.  gunboat 
Wateree : 

"At  about  twenty  minutes  past  five  o'clock 
we  saw  immense  clouds  of  dust  some  ten  miles 
south  of  Arica,  which  came  nearer  and  nearer. 
Then  we  saw  the  peaks  of  the  mountains  begin 
to  wave  to  and  fro  like  reeds  in  a  storm.  As 
the  wave  approached  us  we  saw  great  rocks 
rent  from  the  mountain  heights,  and  with  large 
mounds  of  earth  they  rolled  down  their  sides. 
Very  soon  the  whole  earth  was  shaking. 
When  the  convulsion  reached  the  mole,  it  also 
began  to  move,  and  the  town  commenced  to 
crumble  into  ruins.  The  noise  was  like  the 
rumbling  echoes  of  thunder,  the  explosive 
sounds  like  those  of  the  firing  of  a  heavy 
battery,  terrific  and  deafening.  The  whole 
soil  of  the  country,  as  far  as  we  could  see,  was 


124  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

moving  first  like  a  wave  in  the  direction  from 
south  to  north ;  then  it  trembled,  and  at  last 
it  shook  heavily,  throwing  into  heaps  of  ruins 
two-thirds  of  all  the  houses  of  Arica.  Shock 
after  shock  followed.  In  several  places  sul- 
phurous vapor  issued  from  openings  in  the 
earth.  At  this  juncture  a  crowd  of  people 
flocked  to  the  mole,  seeking  boats  to  take 
refuge  on  the  vessels  in  the  harbor.  As  yet 
the  shipping  felt  not  the  least  commotion  from 
the  disturbances  on  the  land.  After  the  first 
shock  there  was  a  rest.  The  Wateree  and  the 
Fredonia  sent  their  surgeons  ashore  to  assist 
the  wounded.  Between  fifty  and  sixty  people 
of  the  town  had  reached  the  mole  by  this  time 
to  take  the  boats.  But  the  surgeons  had  hard- 
ly landed,  and  but  few  others  had  entered  the 
boats,  when  the  sea  quietly  receded  from  the 
shore,  leaving  the  boats  hard  aground.  When 
the  water  had  reached  the  depth  of  extremely 
low  tide,  then  all  at  once,  on  the  whole  levee 
of  the  harbor,  it  commenced  to  rise.  It  ap- 
peared at  first  as  if  the  ground  of  the  shore 
was  sinking.  The  mole  was  carried  away,  and 
the  people  on  it  were  seen  floating.  The  water 
rose  to  the  height  of  thirty-four  feet  above 
high-water  mark,  and  overflowed  the  town, 


AEICA  AND   TACNA.  125 

sweeping  down  what  the  earthquake  had  left. 
All  this  work  of  the  waters  was  done  in  five 
minutes.  Then  the  water  rushed  back  into 
the  ocean  more  suddenly  than  it  advanced 
upon  the  land.  This  awful  spectacle  of  de- 
struction by  the  receding  flood  had  hardly  been 
realized  when  the  sea  rose  again,  and  now  the 
vessels  in  port  began  dragging  their  anchors. 
The  water  rose  to  the  same  height  as  before, 
and  on  rushing  back,  it  brought  not  only  the 
debris  of  a  ruined  city  with  it,  but  even  a  loco- 
motive and  tender,  and  a  train  of  four  cars  were 
seen  carried  away  by  the  force  of  the  waters. 
During  the  advance  of  the  sea  inland,  another 
terrific  shock,  lasting  about  eight  minutes,  was 
felt.  At  this  time  all  around  the  city  the  dust 
formed  in  clouds,  obscuring  the  sky,  and  render- 
ing the  land  quite  invisible.  Then  was  heard 
the  thundering  approach  of  a  sea  wave,  then 
was  seen  a  sea  wall  of  perpendicular  height,  to 
the  extent  of  from  forty-two  to  forty-five  feet, 
capped  with  a  fringe  of  bright  glistening  foam, 
sweeping  over  the  land,  stranding  far  inland 
the  United  States  war-steamer  Wateree,  the 
Peruvian  frigate  America,  and  an  English  mer- 
chant ship  and  many  others." 

Mr.  Nugent  and  family  and    many   others 


126  CUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

fled  to  the  hills  after  the  first  shock,  before  the 
tidal  wave  came.  He  told  me  that  he  Avas  in- 
duced thus  to  flee  to  the  mountains  from  hav- 
ing read  an  account  of  the  earthquakes  in  the 
West  Indies  the  preceding  year,  and  that  there 
the  tidal  wave  immediately  followed  the  earth- 
quake shocks.  Thus  he  had  the  advantage  of 
the  wretched  people  who  did  not  read  the 
papers,  and  who,  in  their  ignorance,  rushed  for 
the  boats  to  seek  a  refuge  on  the  ships.  The 
Wateree  was  a  God-send  to  the  destitute  thou- 
sands who  had  lost  all  but  life.  She  had  all 
her  stores  in  perfect  order ;  having  been  built 
for  river  service  during  the  war,  and  drawing 
but  six  feet  of  water,  she  was  carried  on  the 
crest  of  the  waves  a  quarter  of  a  mile  inland, 
and  set  down  on  a  level  plain.  Not  a  man 
was  lost,  except  one  poor  fellow  who  was  in 
the  boat  when  the  ship  was  carried  ashore. 
The  captain  generously  supplied  the  sufferers 
with  blankets,  provisions,  and  whatever  the 
ship  contained  that  they  needed.  I  have 
heard  many  of  them  speak  gratefully  of  the 
relief  they  got  from  the  Wateree.  The  tidal 
wave  of  last  May  lifted  the  Wateree  from  her 
bed  and  carried  her  about  two  miles  north, 
broke  her  back,  and  set  her  down  much  nearer 


AKICA  AKD   TACNA.  127 

to  the  sea,  where  she  now  appears  to  be  "a 
vessel  of  wrath,  fitted  only  for  destruction." 
Thus  it  seems  that  the  tidal  wave  of  last  May 
was  as  high,  or  higher,  than  the  one  of  1868, 
which  sent  this  noble  ship  ashore.  We  walk 
over  many  acres  of  desolation  in  Arica,  Rail- 
way works,  workshops,  foundry,  freight  and 
engine-houses,  stores  and  dwellings  of  the  town, 
caught  up  from  their  foundations,  skaken  to 
fragments,  and  scattered  to  the  winds.  There 
are  heaps  of  rail-cars  upturned ;  here,  a  steam- 
ship in  pieces,  engine  there,  boiler  yonder. 
There  lies  a  great  iron  turning-lathe  thrown 
from  some  wreck,  and  a  war-ship's  supply  of 
cannon  balls,  all  discharged  at  one  shot,  lie 
in  a  pile  of  unnumbered  tons ;  further  on  a  lot 
of  mill-stones ;  and  there  are  twenty -four  beauti- 
ful truncated  iron  columns,  ship-loads  of  iron 
in  all  shapes,  to  tell  of  blasted  hopes  and  of 
fortunes  lost  in  Arica. 

At  3  P.M.  on  the  9th  of  January,  I  took 
the  rail  for  Tacna,  thirty-nine  miles  distant, 
at  an  elevation  of  2,000  feet  above  sea-level. 
A  hot,  dusty  travel  over  a  desert,  till  we  see  in 
the  distance  the  green  gardens  and  orchards  of 
Tacna, 

It  is  a  town  of  about   14,000  inhabitants. 


128  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

Living  streams,  fresh  from  the  Andes,  flow 
through  some  of  the  principal  streets,  and 
water  the  neighboring  vineyards  and  gardens ; 
It  is  an  oasis  in  the  desert. 

We  arrived  at  6  P.M.     I  had  a  letter  of  in- 
troduction from   our  Consul  at  Arica  to  Mr. 

A ,  of  Tacna,  so  I  engaged  a  boy  to  carry 

my  portmanteau  and  conduct  me  to  his  house. 
We  had  gone  but  a  few  rods,  when  my  porter 
employed  a  smaller  boy  to  do  the  carrying 
business,  while  he,  as  the  original  contractor, 
should  play  the  gentleman,  and  get  a  fee  for 
himself  and  another  for  the  little  Cholo  who 
carried  the  load.  Coming  to  a  hotel,  I  left  my 
luggage,  and  went  beyond  the  town,  and  found 
the  man  I  sought.  I  gave  him  the  letter,  and 
explained  to  him  the  object  of  my  mission. 
He  was  kind,  but  quite  unbelieving.  He  was 
quite  sure  that  I  could  do  nothing  in  Tacna,  so 
I  left  him,  and  returned  to  the  hotel.  At  the 
supper-table  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a 
young  English  gentleman,  and  tried  to  find 
out  how  many  English-speaking  families  re- 
sided in  the  town,  and  what  the  prospect  for 
educational  work.  He  could  give  me  no  en- 
couragement. Later  in  the  evening,  I  strolled 
down  town  to  the  plaza,  where  many  gentle- 


AEICA   AND   TACNA.  129 

men  and  ladies  were  promenading,  and  others 
reposing  on  the  public  seats  prepared  and 
waiting  for  the  weary ;  so  I  sat  down  on  one 
beside  a  German,  who  informed  me  that  there 
were  a  few  English  and  many  German  families 
in  Tacna,  and  he  believed  that  a  good  English 
school  was  one  of  the  great  needs  of  the  city. 
I  was  glad  I  met  with  that  German;  he  did  me 
good. 

I  returned,  and  retired  to  bed  at  9  P.M., 
but  not  to  sleep.  It  was  one  of  those  nights 
of  waking  visions  such  as  I  used  to  have  in 
Bombay,  when  God  made  known  His  way  to 
his  poor  ignorant  servant.  I  don't  mean  mirac- 
ulous visions,  but  an  intelligible  manifestation 
of  God's  will,  showing  me  my  path  of  duty 
through  unexplored  regions  where  there  were 
no  sign -boards  nor  blazed  trees  to  indicate 
the  right  way.  The  revealings  of  that  night 
widened  my  field  of  operations,  narrowed  my 
work,  and  shortened  my  stay  for  the  present 
in  South  America,  so  as  to  put  me  back  to 
New  York  early  in  May  of  this  year.  My 
way  was  widened  so  as  to  send  good  school- 
teachers where  preachers  would  not  be  received 
at  all;  my  work  narrowed,  so  that  instead  of 
staying  to  plant  churches,  as  I  did  in  India,  I 
6* 


130  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSLNS. 

was  first  to  send  men  to  lay  the  foundations ; 
then,  after  a  term  of  years,  return  to  build ; 
time  shortened  by  extending  my  preparatory 
work  rapidly  along  the  coast,  and  hasten  home 
to  find  and  send  the  workers. 

Tacna  was  to  be  my  first  departure  from  the 
old  line  of  purely  evangelistic  work,  to  the 
new  line  of  school-work  simply,  where  noth- 
ing more  is  at  present  possible.  I  had  it  all 
mapped  out  before  morning,  and  hence  the 
first  thing  was  to  write  my  proposal  for  the 
merchants  of  Tacna  to  found  an  English 
school.  I  had  it  clearly  stated,  so  that  they 
could  see  the  object,  and  the  way  to  attain  it, 
at  a  glance,  and  have  nothing  to  do  but  sub- 
scribe the  funds  and  sign  the  papers.  I  went 
into  the  coffee-room  and  sat  down  by  a  young 
man  who  I  thought  might  understand  the 
English  language.  I  found  him  to  be  an  in- 
teHigent  gentleman  of  French  extraction,  but 
a  native  of  Minnesota.  He  was  my  provi- 
dential man  for  the  moment. 

I  laid  my  case  before  him,  and  he  said : 

"I   don't   think   you    can   do   anything   in 

Tacna,  but  the  man  whom  you  should   see  is 

Mr.  Wm.  Hellman.     If  you  can  get  him  to  see 

as  you  do,  you'll   succeed.     He'll   not    come 


ARICA   AND   TACXA.  131 

to  his  office  till  11  A.M.  ;  but  I  am  just  now 
going  down  town,  and  will  show  you  his  place 
of  business." 

At  the  hour  designated,  I  presented  myself 
to  Mr.  Helhnan,  and  stated  my  object,  and 
showed  him  my  written  proposals. 

He  replied :  "  It  is  a  thing  very  much 
needed  here ;  but  this  whole  country  is  badly 
demoralized,  and  I  fear  that  nothing  can  be 
done." 

"  Well,  my  dear  sir,  you  are  hardly  prepared 
to  turn  them  all  over  to  the  '  old  scratch,'  with- 
out at  least  one  more  effort  for  the  education  of 
the  rising  generation.  If  you  can  succeed  in 
giving  a  good  education  and  a  good  moral 
training  to  one  boy  of  thousands  who  are 
running  wild  around  here,  he  may  be  the  com- 
ing man  of  mark  to  raise  this  country  to  a 
higher  level.  What  I  propose,  too,  is  not 
like  a  great  railroad  venture,  involving  a  haz- 
ardous outlay  of  funds,  but  a  very  economical 
enterprise,  with  promise  of  large  returns  for 
the  good  of  the  country." 

"  I  have  brought  out  governesses  at  different 
times  from  England,  but  they  get  discouraged, 
and  do  but  little  good." 

"  Now,  last  of  all,  you  had  better  try  one  live 


132  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

American  to  help  you  found  a  good  English 
school  in  Tacna." 

"  But,  I  am  not  the  man  to  lead  in  such  a 
movement ;  you  should  go  to  Mr.  Outram." 

"  Very  well ;  if  Mr.  Outram  leads,  will  you 
follow?" 

"  Yes,  I  will  do  my  part." 

"  Shall  I  go  alone,  to  wait  on  Mr.  Outram, 
or  will  you  go  with  me  ? " 

By  this  time  he  had  put  on  his  hat,  and 
said,  "  Come,  let  us  go." 

Just  outside  he  met  the  banker,  Seiior  Don 
Basadre,  and  began  to  explain  the  project  to 
him.  I  said,  "  Fetch  him  along."  So  on  they 
came,  and  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Outram,  a 

merchant  piince.  My  friend,  Mr.  H ,  saved 

me  the  trouble  of  telling  my  story,  by  stat- 
ing the  case  himself,  and  advocating  it  elo- 
quently. 

In  a  few  moments  Mr.  Jones  came  in,  and 
Mr.  H said  to  him :  "  Mr.  Jones,  you  re- 
member we  were  talking  the  other  day  about 
the  great  need  of  an  English  school  in  this 
town,  and  were  devising  how  it  could  be 
brought  about.  Now  here  is  a  benevolent 
gentleman,  who  has  come  to  help  us  in  this 
very  thing." 


ARICA   AND  TACNA.  133 

Mr.  O said :  "  How  long  can  you  re- 
main with  us  ? " 

"I  expect  to  return  to  Arica  to-morrow 
morning." 

"This  is  our  mail-day  for  Bolivia,  and  we 
are  all  extremely  busy,  but  we  think  well  of 
your  proposition,  and  I  think  we  will  write 
you  a  favorable  response  to  Valparaiso,  if  that 
will  do." 

"  Thank  you,  sir,  that  will  do,  if  you  cannot 
do  better ;  but  this  is  a  very  plain  case,  which 
need  not  consume  much  of  your  time,  and  my 
success  here  will  help  to  open  my  way  along 
the  coast." 

He  made  no  reply,  but  took  up  his  pen  and 
signed  the  articles  of  agreement. 

Then  Mr.  Jones  signed.  Meantime  Mr. 

H made  some  allusion  to  California, 

and  said  that  he  lived  in  San  Francisco  in 
1853. 

"Do  you  remember  a  man  called  Father 
Taylor,  who  preached  every  Sabbath  after- 
noon on  the  plaza  to  the  masses  ? " 

"Yes,  I  remember  Father  Taylor  very 
well." 

"  That  same  Father  Taylor  has  come  now  to 
help  you  here  in  Tacna."  We  both  rose  up 


134  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

and  shook  hands  as  old  friends.  So  we  pro- 
ceeded and  completed  our  preparatory  business 
in  about  half  an  hour  more.  I  asked  for  a 
subscription  of  £30  sterling  to  pay  passage  of 
a  single  man  from  New  York  to  Tacna,  and 
the  guarantee  of  $100  per  month  for  his  sup- 
port till  the  school  could  be  made  self- support- 
ing to  the  extent  of  at  least  that  amount. 
Eight  generous  gentlemen  signed  the  papers, 
obliging  themselves  voluntarily  tt>  give  £90 
sterling  for  passage,  and  $200  per  month 
guarantee  for  a  male  and  female  teacher,  a 
good  man  and  his  wife — our  engagement  to 
cover  a  period  of  at  least  three  years. 

Tacna  carries  on  a  large  trade,  principally  of 
wool  and  copper,  with  Bolivia,  transported 
across  the  near  range  of  the  Andes  on  the 
backs  of  llamas  and  mules.  The  llama  carries 
a  burden  of  one  hundred  pounds,  the  mule 
three  hundred  pounds.  Arica  is  the  port  of 
entry,  and  its  lists  of  imports  and  exports  will 
convey  an  idea  of  the  strength  of  this  current 
of  commerce. 

Her  imports  consist  of  cottons,  woolens, 
linens,  silks,  furniture,  hardware,  earthen- 
ware and  glassware,  oilman's  stores,  wines, 
malt  liquors  and  spirits,  and  medicines. 


AKICA  ATsTD  TACNA.  135 

The   sources  and  value  of   these  imports  for 
1876  are  as  follows,  in  silver  coin : 


Chile, 
France, 
Germany,  . 
Great  Britain, 

United  States, 


$116,652  48 
545,995  99 
455,325  35 

686,800  77 
116,652  48 


Total, $1,854,171  08 

The  exports  of  Arica  consist  principally  of 
Peruvian  bark,  copper  ore,  tin  ore,  bar  tin  and 
bullion,  sheep's  wool,  alpaca,  llama  and  vicuna 
wool,  coffee,  tobacco,  brandy,  hides  and  skins 
in  great  variety,  etc.  Total  value  in  silver 
dollars  for  1876,  amounts  to  the  sum  of 
$4,816,686.09;  more  than  one-half  of  this 
amount  was  in  gold  and  silver  bullion  and 
coin.  I  am  indebted  to  the  kindness  of  our 
Consul  for  these  facts.  He  lost  $50,000 — his 
all,  except  a  town  lot — by  the  earthquake  of 
1868.  Having  a  large  family  to  support  and  to 
educate,  now  numbering  twelve  robust,  healthy 
children,  he  determined  to  dig  a  hole  in  the 
ground,  on  his  own  town  lot,  and  "make  by 
fresh  water  what  he  had  lost  by  salt."  He  hap- 
pily struck  the  "invisible  river,"  which  sent 
forth  copious  supplies  of  clear  pure  water 


136  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

already  filtered  by  its  percolation  through  the 
rubble  and  sand.  He  got  up  a  water  company, 
with  capital  to  the  amount  of  $200,000.  They 
employ  two  steamers  to  carry  water  one  hun- 
dred and  eight  miles  south  to  Iquique,  and  to 
other  dry  ports  still  more  remote.  Prior  to 
this,  Iquique  had  to  depend  on  distillation  of 
fresh  water  from  salt,  which  was  sold  at  eight 
cents  per  gallon.  Arica  delivers  it  to  the  Iqui- 
que people  for  two  cents  per  gallon. 

The  water-tank  at  Iquique  has  an  elevation 
of  sixty-seven  feet,  and  contains  one  thousand 

tons  of  water.     Though  Mr.  N gets  the 

water  out  of  his  own  land,  he  has  to  pay  the 
municipality  a  tax  of  $4,000  per  year,  and  $964 
port  dues,  to  get  it  out,  and  pays  Iquique 
$1,200  per  year  duty  to  get  it  in,  and  yet  the 
business  pays  a  good  dividend.  I  had  the 
promise  of  a  passage  in  the  water  steamer, 
Maria  Louisa,  Captain  Wm.  Taylor,  to  Iqui- 
que, on  Friday  the  llth,  and  hence  my  haste 
to  return  from  Tacna ;  but  the  said  steamer  did 
not  get  off  till  Monday  P.  M.,  so  I  had  to  pay  $1 
per  night  for  poor  lodgings,  and  wait  patiently. 
I  was,  however,  made  welcome  at  the  table  of 
our  consular  friend  and  his  kind  family.  The 
Lord  bless  them.  The  railway  works  of  the 


AEICA  AND  TACNA.  137 

Arica  and  Tacna  railroad,  twice  torn  to  pieces 
within  nine  years  by  tidal  waves,  have  recently 
been  removed  to  Tacna,  two  thousand  feet 
above  ordinary  sea-level,  where  they  hope  to 
have  no  further  annoyance  from  the  sea. 

P.  S.— New  York,  June  5th,  1878.  True  to 
their  engagement,  my  merchant  princes  of 
Tacna  f orwarded  the  passage  funds,  and  I  have 
appointed  Professor  Alexander  P.  Stowell, 
Mrs.  Stowell,  and  a  music-teacher  besides,  to 
found  the  school.  They  are  to  sail  from  New 
York  for  Tacna  on  the  30th  of  this  month. 


vn. 

IQUIQUE. 

ON  Monday,  January  the  14th,  as  the  sun  in 
grand  reflected  radiance  was  sinking  beneath 
the  horizon  of  the  great  waters  of  the  West, 
we  embark  on  Captain  Taylor's  steamer  Maria 
Louisa. 

She  has  a  freight  of  85,000  gallons  of  pure 
water  from  Arica  wells,  bound  for  Iquique, 
distant  one  hundred  and  ei«;ht  miles.  She  has 

O 

in  tow  the  San  Carlos,  containing  200,000  gal- 
lons of  water,  bound  for  Pasagua,  which  is  an 
important  port  for  the  saltpeter  trade,  a  little 
over  half-way  to  Iquique. 

Captain  Taylor  is  a  very  gentle,  kind  Scotch- 
man, and  son-in-law  of  Captain  Wilson,  Brit- 
ish Vice-Consul  of  Callao.  When  I  informed 
the  captain  of  our  contemplated  school  in 
Tacna,  the  tears  seemed  to  fill  his  eyes. 

138 


IQUIQUE.  139 

"  Ah,  that  touches  me !  I  sent  my  wife 
and  four  children  to  Scotland,  three  years  ago, 
for  the  children's  education.  Our  oldest  is 
but  twelve  years  old  now.  To  endure  this 
wretched  separation  from  one's  family  till  they 
all  get  their  education,  is  a  long,  lonesome  lane 
to  travel.  I  do  hope  you  will  succeed  in  found- 
ing a  good  school  in  Tacna.  I  will  bring  my 
wife  and  children  back,  and  settle  them  there, 
and  have  my  children  educated  where  I  can 
see  them  every  week." 

Within  the  last  forty  years,  thousands  of 
cases  of  this  sort  have  transpired  along  the 
coast.  Many  hundreds  of  children  have  been 
educated  in  Valparaiso,  but  the  board  and 
tuition  of  a  pupil  there  for  one  year  costs 
about  $800.  A  man  with  a  large  family  and 
small  means  cannot  stand  that  rate  of  ex- 
penditure. Others  send  their  children  to  the 
United  Kingdom  and  to  Europe  for  their  edu- 
cation. Some  return  and  do  well,  but  a  very- 
large  number,  freed  from  the  wholesome  checks 
of  parental  influence,  not  to  speak  of  the 
molding  power  of  the  parent  in  the  develop- 
ment of  a  child's  character,  fall  into  bad  asso- 
ciations, and  form  habits  which  ruin  them  for 
life.  I  met  a  gentleman  of  fortune  a  few  days 


140  OUK  SOUTH   AMEEICAN   COUSIXS. 

ago,  who  spent  a  large  sum  of  money  on  the 
education  of  his  two  sons  in  London.  They 
returned  to  their  kind,  hopeful  father  last  year. 
To  the  great  grief  of  the  father,  he  soon  found 
that  his  elder  son,  instead  of  being  a  gen- 
tleman and  a  competent  business-man  as  he 
hoped,  was  a  confirmed  drunkard,  and  died  in 
delirium  tremens  before  the  year  was  out. 

The  younger  proved  to  be  a  worthless 
spendthrift,  unfit  for  any  business.  Many 
others  send  their  wives  and  children  home  to- 
gether, that  the  mother  may  superintend  the 
education  of  the  children.  In  some  cases  this 
works  well,  but  in  most  cases  disastrously,  at 
least  to  the  parents. 

To  found  a  good  English  school,  therefore, 
in  eveiy  English-speaking  community  on  this 
coast,  and  that  by  a  liberally  educated  Gospel 
minister,  who  can  exercise  a  pastor's  care  over 
the  people  also,  is  the  blessed  work  which  God 
has  sent  me  to  initiate  in  this  land. 

Yet,  blessed  as  that  may  be  in  itself,  it  is  not 
the  end  of  my  mission  to  South  America,  but 
simply  a  means  of  blessjng  to  the  thirty-eight 
millions  of  the  Latin  races  who  are  our  kin- 
dred and  near  neighbors,  from  whom  we  should 
withhold  no  good  thing. 


IQUIQUE.  141 

Iquique  is  the  principal  port  of  the  province 
of  Tarapaca,  the  native  province  of  General 
Castillo,  the  Abraham  Lincoln  of  Peru ;  slavery 
expired  at  the  edge  of  his  sword;  a  great 
general  in  the  field,  a  wise  statesman,  one  of 
the  best  administrators  that  ever  filled  the 
presidential  chair  of  that  republic,  and  withal, 
a  full-blooded  Indian,  one  of  the  old  Incas 
risen  from  the  dead. 

As  we  near  our  anchorage  at  Iquique  on 
Tuesday  morning,  the  15th  of  January,  Captain 
Taylor  points  to  the  wreck  of  a  ship  he  lost 
there  last  year.  This  can  hardly  be  called  a 
harbor ;  it  is  a  roadstead,  protected  on  the 
south  by  a  little  island,  on  which  a  steamship 
lies  high  on  the  rocks.  She  was  anchored 
there,  quite  unbroken,  by  the  tidal  wave  of 
the  9th  of  last  May. 

Captain  T introduced  me  to  half  a 

dozen  leading  gentlemen  of  Iquique,  who  gave 
me  but  little  encouragement.  All  admitted 
the  great  need  of  a  school,  and  some  thought 
a  preacher  might  do  some  good ;  but  the  thing 
had  been  tried  in  good  times,  and  the  result 
was  utter  failure,  and  now,  in  these  hard 
times,  it  was  all  nonsense  to  attempt  such  a 
thing.  I  had  met  that  objection  at  all  preced- 


142  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

ing  ports,  and  had  become  somewhat  familiar 
iwith  the  facts,  and  with  both  sides  of  the 
argument. 

A  very  good  and  able  doctor  of  divinity 
from  Liverpool  visited  this  coast  some  years 
ago,  to  find  out  from  personal  observation  its 
spiritual  requirements,  and  devise  means  to 
meet  them.  He  meant  well,  but  did  not  adopt 
the  right  method.  He  did  not  commit  the 
people  here  in  any  way,  but  committed  himself 
by  the  promise  of  help  from  a  generous  people 
at  home.  His  plan  was  defective,  in  that  he 
was  aiming  to  apply  the  missionary  principle 
of  dependence  to  a  people  who  were  as  able  to 
support  school-teachers  and  Gospel  ministers 
as  the  average  of  people  who  give  missionary 
money  at  home.  To  treat  such  either  as  paupers 
or  heathens  is  an  insult :  though  they  may  ap- 
preciate the  motive  and  receive  the  misdirected 
effort  with  thanks,  the  result  is  failure.  A  thing 
to  live  must  embody  a  sound  vital  principle. 

Later  still  a  learned  bishop  traversed  the 
coast  from  Panama  to  Patagonia.  In  some 
places  he  got  large  sums  of  money  subscribed. 
In  such  places,  and  in  others  where  he  hoped 
that  the  people  would  raise  the  funds  to 
support  a  clergyman,  the  bishop  appointed 


IQUIQUE.  143 

"  councils  "  to  co-operate  with  Mm  in  carrying 
out  his  pious  pui-pose.  He  "  struck  the  lead," 
but  his  machinery  was  too  unwieldy  and  too 
costly  for  this  coast,  and  was  entangled  with 
too  much  tape  for  the  times  here.  The  sup- 
plies of  men  had  to  come  through  another 
bishop  eight  thousand  miles  away.  Here  in 
Iquique  the  good  bishop  got  four  thousand 
dollars  subscribed,  and  the  people  really 
thought  it  meant  business.  After  many 
months  of  suspense,  the  "  council "  received 
a  letter  from  the  great  metropolitan  master, 
stating  that  he  had  given  due  consideration  to 
their  case,  and  could  only  state,  that  unless 
the  people  of  Iquique  would  pledge  themselves 
to  build  a  church,  and  guarantee  a  salary  of 
$5,000  per  year,  he  could  not  send  them  a 
clergyman.  The  people  were  neither  able  nor 
willing  to  assume  such  a  responsibility. 

The  chaplain  in  Callao  for  a  few  years 
past  received  a  salary  of  $4,000  in  gold,  and 
his  perquisites,  it  is  said,  exceeded  another 
thousand,  for  he  made  a  charge  for  every 
baptism,  and  for  reading  the  funeral  service 
over  a  poor  dead  sailor  he  presented  his  bill 
for  sixteen  dollars  to  the  Consul,  who  paid 
it.  I  don't  pen  these  facts  invidiously,  but 


144  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

to  show  how  impossible  it  appears  to  the 
people  in  smaller  towns  to  have  a  preacher. 
If  I  had  the  men  at  command  at  once,  I 
could  station  forty  of  them  where  they  could 
do  a  great  educational  and  evangelical  work, 
and  get  a  support,  in  no  place  less  than 
$100  per  month;  but  I  have  to  get  a  people 
whose  confidence  has  been  broken  down  to  sub- 
scribe funds  to  pay  the  passage  and  guarantee 
the  support  of  men  yet  to  be  selected  and  sent 
out  after  a  period  of  six  months  or  more.  It 
requires  great  presumption,  or  great  faith  in 
God  and  man,  to  undertake  such  a  work.  I 
have  great  faith  in  God,  and  great  faith  in 
man,  and  in  the  past  both  have  exceeded  my 
expectations. 

Nevertheless,  coming  as  an  unofficial  stran- 
ger, my  nationality,  my  church  relations,  and 
the  prospect  of  supplies  of  men  from  my  coun- 
try are  urged  as  a  serious  ground  of  objection 
to  the  undertaking,  by  some  moneyed  men 
whose  influence  falls  into  the  opposite  scale; 
my  success  will  be  a  providential  miracle,  and 
I  will  give  all  the  glory  to  God.  The  great 
risk  at  the  start  is  the  raising  of  the  passage- 
money.  All  admit  that  if  a  good  man  was  on 
the  ground  there  would  be  no  difficulty  at  all 


IQUIQUE.  145 

about  getting  all  the  funds  required  for  his 
support.  The  English-speaking  people  of  this 
coast  are  very  much  like  the  pioneer  Cali- 
fornians,  they  make  and  spend  their  money 
freely,  and  give  liberally  to  any  worthy  object. 
I  could  collect  the  passage-money  as  I  proceed, 
but  it  is  too  long  to  hold  it.  The  oppo- 
sition would  laugh  at  the  men  giving  it 
with  an  innuendo  remark  and  shrug  of  the 
shoulder  to  the  effect  that  the  man  they 
trusted  had  run  away  with  their  money. 
Hence,  I  would  not  handle  a  dime  of  their 
funds.  The  sweep  of  counter  currents  for  six 
months  imperils  their  confidence.  The  danger 
is  that  doubt  may  predominate,  and  prevent 
them  from  collecting  and  forwarding  the 
funds  ;  but  I  will  trust  and  work,  and  win,  by 
the  mercy  of  God,  and  the  surviving  faith  and 
liberality  of  the  people. 

Well,  here  we  are  in  Iquique,  the  place  we 
have  read  about,  that  "was  swallowed  up  by 
an  earthquake  in  1868."  It  was  not  "  swallow- 
ed up,"  but  it  was  terribly  shaken  to  pieces ; 
the  tidal  wave  swept  over  a  large  portion  of 
it,  and  of  its  13,000  people,  it  was  supposed 
that  one-half  of  them  were  drowned.  The 
town  suffered  terribly  also  by  the  earthquake 
7 


146  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

of  last  May.  The  people  fled  to  the  hills  and 
escaped  the  tidal  wave,  but  the  kerosene  lamps 
left  burning  in  their  houses  were  upset  by  the 
violence  of  the  shocks,  and  set  the  town  on 
fire.  There  were  three  fire-companies  in  the 
town,  two  German  and  one  English.  They 
rushed  out  with  their  engines  to  quench  the 
flames.  The  tidal  wave  saved  them  that 
trouble,  but  swept  away  the  engines  and  hose 
of  both  the  German  companies,  and  the  Eng- 
lish company  made  a  very  narrow  escape. 

Iquique  has  a  population  of  about  12,000. 
Its  principal  export  is  nitrate  of  soda  or  salt- 
peter. It  is  brought  from  the  coast  range  of 
mountains  back  of  the  town.  The  villages  of 
Limena  and  La  Noria,  thirty -four  miles  distant, 
are  large  sources  of  supply.  I  visited  those 
diggings,  and  the  rocks  that  cover  hundreds  of 
acres  of  those  dry  mountains  are  of  pure  white 
salt.  The  saltpeter  is  found  in  loads  a  few 
feet  below  the  surface.  Much  of  it  is  dug  out 
in  a  pure  crystallized  form,  but  it  is  boiled, 
filtered,  and  dried,  and  then  put  into  sacks 
containing  about  three  bushels  each.  Those 
deposits  are  connected  with  Iquique  by  rail- 
way. The  main  track  is  seventy  miles  in 
length,  with  side  tracks,  making  a  total  of 


IQUIQUE. 


147 


about  one  hundred  miles.  This  road  was  built 
by  a  native  company,  with  borrowed  English 
capital.  The  company  could  not  meet  their 
obligations,  and  the  road  and  running  stock 
were  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  capitalists 
whose  money  built  it,  to  be  run  by  them  till 
the  whole  debt,  with  interest,  shall  be  paid. 
In  their  hands,  it  is  a  paying  concern.  The 
railroad  works  in  Iquique  constitute  a  very 
important  part  of  the  town. 

The  following  brief  exhibit  will  convey  an 
idea  of  the  commercial  importance  of  this 
town  and  its  chief  industry.  Forty  ships 
were  at  anchor  in  its  harbor  when  I  was  there. 
I  boarded  twenty-eight  of  them  one  morning 
before  breakfast.  I  can't  say  that  I  breakfast- 
ed very  early  that  day.  Most  of  them  were 
large,  first-class  iron  ships.  The  number  and 
nationality  of  the  ships  freighted  here  last 
year,  1876,  were  as  follows  : 


English, 

242 

German, 

58 

French, 

53 

Norway, 

8 

North  America, 

17 

Italy, 

4 

Belgium, 

\ 

Holland, 

1 

148  OUR  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

Chile,  1 

Russia,  1 

Nicaragua, 2 

Denmark,  .......  1 

Total, 389 

The  aggregate  quantity  and  value  of  the 
saltpeter  thus  exported  in  1876,  was  7,050,764 
quintals,  valued  at  thirteen  shillings  per  quin- 
tal, a  round  sum  of  over  twenty- two  million 
of  hard  dollars  (822,033,637).  The  national- 
ity of  the  ships  will  give  an  approximate,  but 
not  an  entirely  accurate  idea  of  the  markets 
of  the  world  to  which  this  product  of  Iqui- 
que  has  been  shipped,  and  is  being  shipped 
continually. 

Mr.  Ralph  Garratt,  a  kind-hearted  Canadian 
gentleman,  the  station-master,  secured  for  me, 
through  the  obliging  disposition  of  Mr.  Row- 
land, the  manager,  the  free  use  of  a  well-fur- 
nished upper  room  in  the  company's  large  two- 
story  building.  Mr.  Garratt  also  gave  me  a  free 
welcome  to  his  table.  His  family  consists  of  a 
kind,  gentle  Peruvian  wife,  four  children,  an 
African  nurse,  a  Chinese  cook,  and  seven  dogs. 

Mr.  G ,  with  a  religious  education,  had  not 

heard  preaching  for  sixteen  years  prior  to  my 
visit ;  not  unwilling  to  hear,  but  how  could  he 


IQUIQUE.  149 

"  hear  without  a  preacher  "  ?  He  was  anxious 
for  a  school,  and  for  preaching  as  well,  and 
offered  to  subscribe  liberally  at  the  first  men- 
tion of  rny  mission.  I  was  advised  to  secure 
the  co-operation  of  John  Nairn,  Esq.,  a  reliable 
Presbyterian  gentleman  from  Liverpool,  who 
has  resided  in  this  country  ever  since  the  year 
1841.  He  is  married  to  a  native  lady,  and 
has  brought  up  his  family  on  this  coast. 

Mr.  N received  me  very   kindly,  and 

was  quite  willing  to  assist  in  any  way  possible. 
By  his  advice  we  got  the  British  Vice-Consul 
to  issue  a  circular  inviting  the  principal  men 
of  the  town  to  a  meeting  at  the  Consulate  that 
evening,  Tuesday  the  15th.  We  had  a  fail-  at- 
tendance, but  not  many  of  the  "  men  of  means." 
I  first  submitted  to  them  the  proposal  to  send 
out  a  man  and  his  wife  to  found  a  male  and 
female  school,  the  man  to  be  pastor  as  well, 
for  the  English-speaking  people.  The  question 
was  discussed,  and  the  conclusion  was  reached 
that,  however  desirable,  they  could  not,  these 
hard  times,  raise  so  much  money  as  would  be 
required  for  so  large  a  venture.  I  then  sub- 
mitted an  alternate  proposal,  which  I  had 
previously  written,  to  send  a  single  man  who 
should  be  qualified  to  teach  and  preach.  They 


150  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

cheerfully  concurred  in  that,  and  appointed 
John  Nairn,  Esq.,  to  accompany  me  to  call  on 
the  people  for  subscriptions. 

The  simple  proposition  I  had  written  in  my 
little  book,  accepted  by  the  meeting  at  the 
British  Consulate,  was  as  follows :  "  The  city 
of  Iquique  being  in  need  of  an  English  school 
of  high  grade,  for  the  education  of  the  children 
of  English,  German,  and  the  better  class  of 
Peruvian  families  in  all  the  branches  of  a  good 
English  education,  and  the  classics,  and  also 
of  a  good  Gospel  minister  for  the  English- 
speaking  population,  travelers,  and  seamen  in 
this  port,  I  propose  to  send  hither  a  compe- 
tent man  combining  in  himself  the  twofold 
character  of  school-teacher  and  pastor.  Re- 
ligious creeds  not  to  be  interfered  with,  nor 
taught  in  the  school. 

"  I  therefore  respectfully  ask  gentlemen  in- 
terested in  this  good  enterprise,  to  subscribe 
the  sum  of  £35,  sterling,  to  pay  his  passage  to 
Iquique,  and  a  monthly  subscription  amounting 
to  an  aggregate  of  one  hundred  silver  dollars 
per  month  for  his  support,  until  the  school 
shall  become  self-supporting.  Passage  sub- 
scription to  be  paid  by  the  middle  of  April  of 
this  year,  the  other  monthly,  after  the  arrival 


IQUIQUE.  151 

of  the   teacher.     This  agreement  to   cover  a 
period  of  at  least  three  years. 

"  Respectfully  submitted, 

"WM.  TAYLOR. 

"  IQUIQUE,  January  17,  1878. 

"  We  the  undersigned  concur  in  Mr.  Taylor's 
proposal,  and  agree  to  pay  the  sums  we  here 
subscribe,  and  do  all  else  we  can  to  make  the 
undertaking  a  success. 

"IQUIQUE,  January  17,  18T8." 

This  was  followed  by  a  record  of  fifty  names, 
with  subscriptions  exceeding  the  amount  re- 
quired. The  committee  elected  at  a  public 
meeting  of  the  people  were  J.  N.  Satler,  Ger- 
man Consul,  treasurer;  J.  Martin,  secretary; 
J.  Nairn,  Esq.,  collector  for  the  city;  Thomas 
Greenwood,  collector  in  railway  works  and 
the  harbor ;  Ralph  Garratt  to  provide  a  place 
for  religious  services.- 

At  our  meeting  at  the  British  Consulate,  Mr. 
Garratt  was  appointed  to  provide  a  preaching 
place  for  me  during  my  sojourn  in  the  town. 
He  furnished  the  railway  station  with  seats 
and  lights,  and  I  preached  there  on  Wednes- 
day and  Thursday  evenings  of  that  week,  and 


152  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

at  one  and  half-past  seven  p.  M.  the  following 
Sabbath.  Our  congregations  did  not  exceed 
forty  persons,  but  were  very  attentive,  and 
there  was  some  awakening  of  real  religious  in- 
terest, like  the  outside  melting  of  an  iceberg. 
It  required  more  time  than  I  could  command 
to  secure  a  thorough  soul-converting  work. 

We  had  no  public  services  after  Sabbath,  as 
I  expected  to  leave  on  Monday,  by  the  coast- 
ing steamer  Ballistas,  Captain  Perrot ;  but  by 
detention  of  the  steamer  I  did  not  get  a  pas- 
sage until  the  following  Thursday.  I  had 
some  trying  delays  and  discouragements  in 
Iquique,  with  many  encouragements.  I  found 
one  young  man  in  Iquique  who  appears  to  be 
decidedly  religious,  Thomas  Greenwood,  from 
London.  He  has  been  in  this  desert  land 
nearly  four  years.  A  Mr.  Reader  for  a  year 
or  two  had  held  small  meetings  in  a  read- 
ing-room in  the  railway  company's  works. 

When   he  left  some  months  ago,  Mr.  G 

took  his  place,  and  has  kept  up  the  meetings 
of  about  half  a  dozen  persons,  but  had  be- 
come so  discouraged  that  he  sent  his  wife 
home  to  London,  and  was  arranging  to  give  up 
his  place  as  a  foreman  in  the  railway  work- 
shops, worth  350  soles  per  month,  and  return 


IQUIQUE.  153 

to  London  to  work  as  a  common  mechanic  for 
less  than  half  that  amount  of  pay,  just  to  be 
with  God's  people ;  but  when  he  saw  what  I 
was  doing  he  was  filled  with  joy,  and  took  my 
book  to  the  men  in  the  shops  and  got  sub- 
scriptions amounting  to  100  soles  per  month. 
He  at  once  wrote  requesting  his  wife  to  return 
to  Iquique,  where  he  now  expects  to  devote 
his  life  to  business  and  to  the  work  of  God. 
I  found  a  man  in  those  shops  who  told  me 
that  he  was  four  years  a  minister  in  the  Wes- 
leyan  Conference,  but  got  out  daring  the  ex- 
citement of  "the  Reform  movement,"  and 
came  to  this  coast  in  1837.  He  has  had  a 
dreary  time,  but  is  feeling  his  way  back  to 
the  "old  paths,  and  the  good  way,"  with  a 
sincere  intention  to  "  walk  therein." 

I  found  in  Mr.  J.  M.  Nicholls,  head  foreman 
in  the  railway  works,  a  true  friend  of  our  en- 
terprise. 

The  most  striking  incident  of  my  visit  to 
Iquique  occurred  on  the  evening  of  the  23d  of 

January.  Mr.  G ,  a  young  Englishman, 

who  was  somewhat  awakened  at  my  meetings, 
came  at  different  times  to  talk,  and  get  me  to 
advise  him  what  to  do  to  be  saved.  His  wife 
is  a  Chileuo  lady,  and  in  getting  married,  as 
7* 


154  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

usual  in  such  cases,  the  priest  obliged  him  to 
sign  an  obligation  to  be  a  Roman  Catholic. 
That  being  against  his  conscience,  he  had  been 
burdened  with  it  during  all  the  intervening 
years,  and  was  anxious  to  see  his  way  out. 
Well,  on  the  evening  of  the  23d,  he  was  in  niy 
room ;  I  talked  to  him  about  an  hour  and  then 
prayed  with  him.  Just  as  I  was  closing  my 
prayer,  while  yet  on  my  knees,  the  bottom 
seemed  to  be  going  out  generally.  The  foun- 
dations of  the  earth  were  shaken,  and  it  ap- 
peared as  though  "the  mountains  might  be 
carried  into  the  midst  of  the  sea." 

My  man  sprang  to  his  feet,  saying,  "  We 
must  get  out  of  this." 

"  Never  mind,  I   suppose  it  will  be   over 


soon." 


"  No,  if  we  don't  get  out  at  once  the  door 
will  be  jammed,  and  then  we  can't  get  out." 

With  that  he  went  and  tried  to  open 
the  door.  It  was  already  jammed,  but  by 
pulling  and  jerking  he  got  it  open,  and  went 
out.  I  looked  about  the  room,  and  got  my 
hat,  and  was  going  out  of  the  door,  when  I 
remembered  what  my  friend  had  told  me,  half 
an  hour  before,  about  the  earthquake  of  last 
May  overturning  the  lamps  and  setting  the 


IQUIQUE.  155 

town  on  fire ;  so  I  returned  and  blew  out  my 
candle.  The  motion  meantime  was  that  of 
sudden  jolting,  like  a  wagon  on  a  corduroy 
road.  When  I  got  out  into  the  veranda,  I 
had  to  go  a  distance  of  fifty  feet  to  get  to  the 
stairs  leading  down  and  out.  I  could  hardly 
keep  on  my  feet.  It  was  like  walking  the 
deck  of  a  ship  in  a  chopping  sea  in  the  Bay 
of  Biscay.  Descending  the  stairs  I  held  on  to 
the  railing,  and  thus  kept  up.  My  friend  was 
waiting  for  me  below.  By  the  time  I  got  on 
to  the  ground  the  violent  shocks  abated,  fol- 
lowed by  vibrations  every  few  minutes.  We 
already  saw  lights  on  the  hills,  and  others  mov- 
ing rapidly  up.  Every  dog  in  town  seemed 
to  expect  the  engulphing  sweep  of  the  tidal 
wave,  and  with  the  people  ran  to  the  hills, 
making  the  darkness  hideous  by  their  barking. 

Mr.  G said,  "Excuse  me,  I  must  go 

and  look  after  my  wife  and  children." 

I  then  walked  up  to  Mr.  Garratt's.  He 
and  his  family,  with  the  help  of  some  of  his 
watchmen,  were  busily  engaged  providing  bed- 
ding, water  and  provisions  for  lodging  on  the 
hills. 

Said  Mr.  G ,  "  This  is  heavier  than  the 

earthquake  of  last  May,  and  the  sea  will  be 


156  CUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

upon  us  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  if  we  don't 
get  away  to  the  hills.  So  I  got  my  Bible  and 
a  wrapper  and  went  with  them.  It  was  very 
dark,  and,  except  the  hideous  barking  of  the 
dogs,  awfully  quiet. 

"Ah,"  said  Mr.  G ,  "this  dreadful  still- 
ness precedes  the  tidal  wave.  It  will  sweep 
this  town  in  ten  minutes."  It  was  awful  to 
think  of  forty  ships  grinding  each  other  to 
pieces,  and  be  dashed  and  broken  up  amid  the 
ruins  of  the  town.  Never  having  had  my 
nerves  shaken  by  such  scenes  before,  I  did 
not  feel  half  the  alarm  that  the  residents  mani- 
fested, but  I  quietly  prayed  to  God  to  spare 
the  town  and  the  shipping.  I  thought  of 
Abraham  pleading  for  Sodom,  and  begged  the 
Lord,  if  there  were  not  ten  righteous  men  in 
the  place,  possibly  there  might  be  three,  and 
to  spare  it  for  their  sake,  and  if  not  three, 
then  in  mercy  to  give  the  place  a  chance  to 
benefit  by  the  ministry  of  the  man  of  God 
to  be  sent  to  Iquique.  We  waited  on  the 

hill  about  an  hour,  when  Mr.  G and  I 

walked  back.  He  stopped  at  his  house,  and  I 
went  to  his  office,  and  met  a  number  of  leading 
gentlemen  of  the  town.  The  earthquake  had 
stopped  the  clock  in  the  railway  office  at  three 


IQUIQUE.  157 

minutes  to  8  P.M.,  so  we  tlms  knew  the  exact 
time  of  the  shocking  event. 

About  10  P.M.  I  went  to  my  room  and  retired 
to  bed.  Happily  the  sea  remained  quiet,  but  all 
seemed  to  be  painfully  apprehensive  of  a  recur- 
rence, and  perhaps  the  next  time  the  earth  might 
open  her  mouth  and  swallow  the  whole  town. 

I  searched  to  see  that  I  was  wholly  submit- 
ted to  God,  and  quietly  entrusted  soul  and 
body  to  the  care  of  my  Saviour.  I  could  not 
call  to  mind  one  act  of  my  life  on  which  I 
could  base  any  hope  of  heaven,  but  sweetly 
resting  my  all  in  the  hands  of  Jesus,  I  had 
sweet  assurance  that  all  was  well.  As  I  was 
dropping  off  to  sleep  I  counted  ten  shocks 
that  caused  a  creaking  of  the  timbers  of  the 
building,  but  I  soon  fell  asleep,  and  waked  up 
in  the  clear  light  of  a  peaceful  morning. 

P.  S.— New  York,  June  5th,  1878.  I  will 
add  that  the  secretary  of  our  committee  in 
Iquique,  J.  Martin,  Esq.,  has  duly  forwarded 
the  passage-money,  and  I  have  appointed  Pro- 
fessor J.  "W.  Collier,  B.A.,  to  that  important 
station,  and  he  is  to  sail  from  New  York  for 
Iquique  on  the  31st  day  of  July,  proximo. 


vrn. 

PABELLON   DE   PICA. 

BY  the  kind  invitation  of  Captain  Perrott,  I 
took  passage  on  his  little  coasting  steamer,  the 
JBaUstm,  from  Iquique,  fifty-five  miles,  to  the 
guano-loading  port  bearing  the  above  hard 
name,  pronounced  Pahbelyone  da  Pecah.  Our 
very  small  craft  was  loaded  down  to  her  lowest 
safe  depth.  The  deck  was  piled  up  with 
lumber,  pine  boards  from  Oregon,  and  with 
baled  hay.  Mr.  White,  the  kind-hearted 
Scotch  engineer,  offered  me  his  bunk  below 
for  the  night,  but,  with  thanks  for  his  kindness, 
I  preferred  the  soft  side  of  a  pile  of  boards  on 
the  deck,  where  I  could  enjoy  the  breeze.  My 
deck  companions  were  three  Cholo  cousins  of 
ours ;  one,  an  old  man,  pretty  drunk.  He 
went  to  sleep  on  a  bale  of  hay,  and  by  a  lurch 
in  the  night,  was  thrown  headlong  on  boxes 
and  boards  piled  up  level  with  the  top  of  the 
bulwarks ;  six  inches  further  he  would  have 
gone  overboard.  He  cut  his  head  badly,  and 
lost  his  hat.  Poor  old  coz  ! 

158 


PABELLOX  DE  PICA.  159 

No.  2  was  a  very  rotund,  well-conditioned- 
looking  man,  wlio  could  speak  a  few  words  of 
English.  He  was  full  of  bad  rum  and  nonsense. 

O 

His  capacious  pockets  contained  each  a  bottle  of 
"  evil  spirits,"  and  in  one  of  them  a  six-shooter. 
He  seemed  to  have  a  musical  turn  of  mind,  and 
occasionally  entertained  us  by  blowing  a  child's 
musical  instrument.  He  had  with  him  his 
little  son  of  about  seven  years.  The  dear  little 
fellow  was  fearful  for  himself  and  for  his 
father,  and  tried  to  keep  him  from  going  to 
sleep,  often  fretting,  and  begging  his  father  to 
sit  up.  He  seemed  to  dread  what  so  nearly 
happened  to  the  old  man — a  struggle  in  a 
drunken  dream  that  might  tumble  him  into 
the  sea.  Poor  little  fellow,  with  such  a  father, 
what  will  be  his  life-course  and  end  ?  Cousin 
John  Chinaman  served  us  with  good  coffee — a 
genial,  manly  fellow  was  he. 

Next  morning,  within  a  mile  of  our  port, 
Mr.  White  pointed  to  a  small  lone  dwelling  on 
the  rocky  shore  of  a  little  bay,  said :  "  Do  you 
see  that  house  ? " 

"Yes." 

"  That  is  all  that  remains  of  the  town  of 
Cheneviye.  It  contained  a  population  of 
about  400,  and  the  tidal  wave  of  last  May 


160  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

swept  it  clean,  and  most  of  its  inhabitants 
were  carried  clear  away  into  the  ocean." 

Some  of  the  people  fleeing  to  the  hills  call- 
ed to  a  German  merchant  as  they  passed  his 
door,  saying :  "  Get  your  family  out  quickly, 
and  run  for  your  lives." 

He  shouted :  "  Go  about  your  business,  you 
want  me  to  run  away  that  you  may  steal  my 
goods."  He  went  in  and  barred  his  doors. 
Poor  man  !  daring  thieves  on  some  former 
occasion  had  doubtless  closed  his  ears  against 
the  timely  warning  of  his  friends.  In  a  minute 
after,  his  house,  with  himself  and  family  all 
locked  in,  was  carried  into  the  sea  and  crushed 
to  pieces.  They  were  seen  no  more.  Severe 
earthquakes  on  this  coast  occur  once  in  a  hun- 
dred years,  but  a  second  destructive  visitation  of 
that  sort  within  nine  years  is  quite  excep- 
tional. 

Pabellon  de  Pica  is  one  of  the  great  guano- 
loading  ports  of  Pern.  There  are  here  and 
at  Haunillos,  22  miles  south,  including  a  few 

7  7  O 

vessels  at  Point  Labos,  one  hundred  and 
three  ships.  My  work  is  to  follow  the  cur- 
rents of  English  commerce  along^  the  dark 

o  o 

coasts  of  heathenism  and  of  semi-Christian 
lands,  to  help  to  prevent  the  wreck  of  Chris- 


PABELLON   DE  PICA.  161 

tian  character  on  those  foreign  reefs  and  rocks, 
and  to  secure  those  already  wrecked,  and  to 
utilize  men  and  money  for  missionary  evangel- 
izing purposes,  instead  of  quietly  allowing 
Satan  to  monopolize  these  resources  and  array 
them  against  the  cause  of  God.  Hence,  it  is 
quite  in  my  line  to  enlist  the  men  of  the 
sea  in  this  great  work.  I  thought,  possibly,  I 
rniovht  arrange  to  send  a  man  to  labor  in  the 

O  O 

hundred  ships  always  to  be  found  along  the 
coast  embracing  these  three  great  guano-loading 
stations.  The  difficulty  of  this  undertaking  is 
to  find  a  man  on  the  shore  whom  the  captains 
and  crews  can  trust  with  the  funds  they  may 
be  willing  to  give  to  initiate  and  support  the 
work.  Of  course  I  was  not  acquainted  with 
the  few  men  residing  on  the  shore,  but  suppos- 
ing the  captains  to  know  them,  I  left  that  mat- 
ter with  them,  and  to  select  a  secretary  and 
treasurer  whom  they  could  trust. 

I  arrived  in  this  port  on  Friday,  the  25th  of 
January.  The  surf  was  terrific ;  the  roar  and 
vibrations  of  the  quaking  earth  occurred  about 
every  hour,  day  and  night.  I  was  baffled  in 
my  arrangement  for  a  boat  on  Saturday,  and 
did  not  get  into  the  fleet  till  Sabbath  morning. 
It  was  a  gloomy  prospect,  but  I  hailed  a  ship's 


162  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSIXS. 

boat  that  was  passing,  and  asked  them  to  put 
me  aboard  the  ship  Prime  Umberto.  I  had 
thought  of  trying  to  get  the  seamen  together 
in  some  central  ship  in  the  fleet  and  preach  to 
them,  but  as  I  ascended  the  ship's  ladder,  it 
struck  me,  "  Too  late  for  that ;  better  have  in- 
formal services  on  as  many  ships  as  possible 
for  the  captains,  mates,  and  men  of  each  ship." 
Happy  thought.  I  introduced  myself  to  Cap- 
tain Robert  Scott,  and  he  introduced  me  to  his 
wife  and  sister.  I  explained  the  object  of  my 
visit,  and  showed  the  proposal  I  had  written 
in  a  little  book  for  subscriptions,  and  said: 
"  Now,  Captain,  if  it  is  your  pleasure  to  call 
your  men  aft,  where  they  can  get  seats  under  the 
awning,  we  will  have  an  informal  religious  ser- 

o*  o 

vice,  and  then  I  will  submit  this  matter  to  the 
whole  ship's  company  together." 

"  Very  good,"  said  he,  and  gave  the  order  to 
the  mate  to  "  call  the  men  aft." 

In  about  two  minutes  I  had  a  congregation 
of  about  twenty.  Many  of  the  men  bare-foot- 
ed, and  in  their  shirt-sleeves,  just  as  they  were 
at  their  ease,  when  called. 

I  said :  "  Men,  I  am  glad  to  see  you  this 
bright  Sabbath  morning.  I  am  glad  you 
didn't  get  swallowed  up  by  that  big  earth- 


PABELLOiN   DE   PICA.  163 

quake  the  other  night.  That  would  have 
been  a  bad  job  for  some  of  us,  wouldn't  it  ? 
Well,  this  is  not  like  Sunday  at  home,  along 
with  father,  and  mother,  and  sisters,  still  it  is 
the  Lord's  blessed  day  of  rest,  and  now  I  want 
you  to  join  with  me  in  singing  His  praise."  I 
passed  round  and  put  a  copy  of  "  Hymns  New 
and  Old  "  into  each  sailor's  hand.  We'll  sing 
the  first  hymn,  "  Oh  for  a  thousand  tongues  to 
sing  my  great  Redeemer's  praise."  They  all 
joined  in  singing ;  those  who  knew  the  tune, 
and  those  who  did  not,  all  sang  with  a  will. 
We  then  sang  two  or  three  others,  among  which 
was  that  sweet  hymn,  "  What  a  friend  we  have 
in  Jesus,"  from  which  I  struck  out  and  preached 
to  them  for  half  an  hour  about  the  sinner's 
Friend.  The  Holy  Spirit  manifestly  touched 
many  hearts.  I  am  sure  He  touched  mine,  and 
filled  it  with  love  and  sympathy  for  my  dear 
seafaring  brethren.  We  then  united  in  prayer 
to  God,  and  no  service  in  Gothic  structures 
could  have  been  more  solemn,  for  lo,  God  was 
in  that  place.  I  then  stated  to  them  my  wish 
to  send  a  man  to  labor  in  these  fleets. 

The  captain  said,  "  Men,  if  you  wish  to  con- 
tribute, I  will  pay  the  amount  you  put  down 
and  keep  account  with  you." 


164  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

He  then  signed  his  name  for  20  soles;  the 
mates  and  men  followed,  and  footed  up  the 
aggregate  sum  of  78  soles.  The  Captain  or- 
dered his  men  to  send  me  to  the  ship  P.  G. 
Carville,  Captain  McFee ;  and  I  had  a  similar 
preaching  service  there. 

3.  In  the  ship  ElUrsly,  Captain  Mowat. 

4.  In  the  ship  Adria,  Captain  Weiss. 

5.  In  the  ship  Herman,  Captain  Dingle. 

6.  In  the  ship  Queen  of  the  Mersey,  Captain 
Sinclair. 

7.  In  the  ship  Orosfeld,  Captain  Thompson. 
Several  captains  had  their  families  aboard. 

The  singing  in  some  of  the  ships  was  grand, 
and  the  services  in  all  well  received. 

The  next  day,  Captain  Thomson,  an  earnest, 
Christian  man  accompanying,  we  had  seven 
preaching  services  aboard  of  seven  other  ships. 
On  Tuesday,  the  29th  of  January,  we  had  a 
meeting  of  the  captains  at  the  British  Consul- 
ate, and  adopted  articles  of  agreement  for  the 
organization  of  a  Seamen's  Evangelical  Society 
for  the  port  of  Pabellon  de  Pica.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  copy  :  "  At  a  meeting  of  captains  and 
other  subscribers  concurring  in  Rev.  Wm. 
Taylor's  proposal  to  send  a  preacher  to  labor 
in  the  port  of  Pabellon  de  Pica  and  vicinity, 


PABELLOX   DE  PICA.  165 

the  following  articles  of  agreement  were  unani- 
mously passed : 

I.  That  the  two  hundred   and   twenty-two 
subscribers  to  the  fund  be  hereby  constituted 
an  association  for  the  support  of  a  minister  of 
the  Gospel,  to  labor  among  seamen  in  this  port 
and  vicinity. 

II.  That  all  future  contributors  to  this  fund 
shall  thereby  become  members  of  this  association. 

III.  That  the  captains  of  ships,  being  sub- 
scribers to  the  fund,  shall,  while  at  anchor  in 
this  port,  be  a  committee  to  co-operate  with 
the  secretary,  the  treasurer,  and  the  minister, 
in  securing  the  object  of  this  association. 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  committee : 
1st.  To  elect,  and  re-elect  when  necessary,  a 
secretary  and  treasurer. 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  secretary : 
1st.  To  call  a  meeting  of  the  committee,  ac- 
companied by  a  statement  of  the  main  object 
of  the  meeting,  as  occasion  may  require ;  after 
which  general  notice,  five  ship-masters  meet- 
ing and  voting,  in  conjunction  with  the  secre- 
tary and  treasurer,  shall  constitute  a  quorum 
for  the  transaction  of  business. 

2d.  To  pay  over  immediately  to  the  treas- 
urer all  funds  coming  into  his  hands  for  the 


166  OUB  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

association,  except  200  soles  to  be  kept  in 
Land  for  incidental  expenses. 

3d.  To  keep  an  accurate  record  in  a  suitable 
book  of  all  the  official  doings  of  the  committee, 
and  of  all  receipts  and  expenditures  of  the 
funds  of  the  association. 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  treasurer  to  de- 
posit all  the  funds  paid  over  to  him  in  safe 
keeping,  and  pay  it  out  only  on  checks  signed 
by  the  secretary,  and  countersigned  by  two 
members  of  the  committee. 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  committee : 

1st.  To  fix  the  amount  to  be  paid  monthly 
for  the  support  of  the  preacher,  at  a  rate  not 
lower  than  £20  sterling,  or  its  equivalent  in 
currency,  nor  higher  than  £25  sterling  per 
month.  In  case  of  the  preacher's  marriage,  an 
additional  sum  to  be  allowed  for  family  ex- 
penses, not  exceeding  in  all  £40  sterling  per 
month,  for  himself  and  family. 

2d.  To  select  one  or  more  of  their  number 
to  go  alone,  or  in  company  with  the  minister, 
as  may  seem  best,  to  visit  all  the  incoming 
ships,  and  inform  the  masters,  mates,  and  men 
of  this  association,  invite  them  to  subscribe  to 
its  funds,  and  participate  in  its  work. 

3d.  To  designate  a  suitable  vessel  as  Bethel 


PABELLOX   DE  PICA.  167 

flag-ship,  pro  tern.,  give  due  notice  of  the  time 
of  service,  and  invite  their  men  to  attend. 

4th.  To  afford  facilities  aboard  their  ships 
on  Sabbath  days,  or  on  week  evenings,  for  in- 
formal services  for  singing,  prayer,  and  preach- 
ing, and  for  the  organization  of  Bible-reading 
classes  and  Christian  fellowship  bands,  as  the 
work  may  progress  in  a  ship's  company. 

5th.  To  see  that  the  funds  of  the  association 
shall  not  be  appropriated  for  the  building  of 
Bethels,  nor  for  any  other  purpose  than  that 
for  which  they  were  contributed,  viz. :  the 
traveling  expenses  and  support  of  the  minister, 
and  the  incidental  expenses  necessarily  incurred 
in  the  work. 

Finally,  the  committee  shall  have  power  to 
change  the  location  of  the  work,  north  or  south 
on  this  coast,  if  required  by  change  in  the 
guano-loading  ports. 

Besides  passing  the  foregoing  articles  of 
agreement,  the  meeting  elected  Mr.  John 
Pennington  as  secretary,  and  Mr.  East  as 
treasurer,  and  an  executive  committee,  as  in- 
dicated in  No.  3,  to  visit  ships,  etc.,  of  which 
Captain  Thompson,  of  the  ship  Crosfield,  was 
the  chairman. 


168  CUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

The  aggregate  sum  subscribed,  meantime, 
amounted  to  947  soles,  worth  about  $600  in 
silver.  The  ships  lie  in  that  port  from  three 
to  six  months ;  no  attractions  on  the  land  to 
entice  the  seamen,  no  land-sharks  in  those 
waters,  a  needy  and  grand  field  for  service 
among  the  men  of  the  sea.  The  captains  and 
men  felt  the  importance  of  the  movement,  and 
have  subscribed  cheerfully  and  liberally,  but 
the  weak  point  was  the  want  of  confidence  for 
the  security  of  their  funds  ashore.  They  offer- 
ed to  pay  the  money  to  me,  but  I  was  on  the 
wing  like  themselves,  and  moreover  did  not 
wish  to  handle  it.  However  that  may  turn 
out,  a  man  of  God  will  be  duly  sent  to  that 
needy  field. 


IX. 

HUAJOLLOS. 

THIS  guano-loading  port,  with  a  fleet  of 
about  fifty  ships,  is  twenty -two  miles  distant 
from  Pabellon  de  Pica,  I  came  hither  by  the 
same  little  steamer,  Batistas,  on  Wednesday, 
the  30th  of  January.  Our  cargo  consisted  prin- 
cipally of  hay  and  blasting-powder. 

"  No  smoking  allowed  on  deck.  There  are 
a  hundred  barrels  of  powder  all  around  you," 
shouted  the  captain.  He  could  not  command 
the  sparks  of  the  low  smoke-stack  of  his 
steamer.  I  noticed  that  the  head  of  the  next 
barrel  to  the  one  on  which  I  sat  had  been 
broken  in,  and  thought,  "  well,  one  spark 
striking  into  that  opening  would  relieve  us  of 
any  further  apprehension  of  earthquakes  and 
tidal  waves."  On  examination,  however,  I 
found  that  the  powder  was  contained  in  a  bas^ 
and  the  bag  was  protected  by  the  barrel.  This 
was  part  of  a  cargo  of  powder  from  America 

169 


170  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

which  arrived  in  Pabellon  de  Pica  last  Satur- 
day. It  was  the  boat  of  the  powder-ship  that 
conveyed  me  into  the  fleet  at  Pabellon  last 
Sunday. 

The  captain  says  he  was  three  hundred 
miles  from  land  on  the  23d  instant,  when  the 
earthquake  occurred.  Said  he  :  "I  was  lying 
down  in  my  cabin  reading,  and  was  startled  by 
a  roaring  sound  and  terrible  pitching  of  the 
ship,  and  thought  it  an  explosion  of  the  pow- 
der. I  rushed  for  the  deck,  expecting  to  see 
the  ship  in  flames,  but  to  my  surprise  and  joy 
the  ship  was  all  right.  Then  I  knew  what  it 
was,  and  thought  of  the  peril  of  the  people  on 
the  land." 

We  reached  Huanillos  just  as  the  sun  was 
beginning  to  dip  into  the  western  waters. 

On  the  recommendation  of  two  of  my  liberal 
subscribers  and  friends  at  Pabellon  de  Pica, 
Captain  Edwards  of  the  True  Briton,  and 
Captain  Jones  of  the  ship  Callao,  I  hired  a 
boatman  on  my  arrival  at  Huanillos  to  pull 
me  directly  to  the  ship  Naval  Reserve,  Captain 
Morgan,  a  Christian  gentleman.  I  had  but 
one  day  to  devote  to  that  great  fleet  of  ships, 
or  else  be  detained  a  week,  which  my  work 
and  limited  time  would  not  allow.  So  I  pre- 


HUANILLOS.  171 

pared  my  subscription  book  and  articles  of 
agreement  to  be  adopted  at  a  meeting  of 
captains,  before  I  should  leave,  organizing  an 
association  similiar  to  that  in  Pabellon  de  Pica. 
It  was  too  large  an  undertaking  for  one  day, 
but  I  believed  it  possible,  by  the  help  of  the 
Lord,  and  we,  hence,  proceeded  with  the  work. 
We  began  Thursday  morning  with  a  service 
on  the  Naval  Reserve.  After  the  preaching,  I 
explained  the  plan  of  sending  a  man  of  God 
to  labor  in  the  fleet,  and  Captain  Morgan  and 
his  crew  subscribed  102  soles.  During  the 
day  we  held  nine  services  on  nine  different 
ships:  the  Moss  Hose,  Captain  J.  McNair; 
Corsica,  of  Glasgow,  Captain  A.  Nichall ;  bark 
Mary,  of  Glasgow,  Captain  Thomas  Davis ; 
Emma  Ives;  ship  Governor  Wilmore,  Captain- 
G.  P.  Low ;  ship  British,  Empire,  Captain 
Riches ;  ship  Peter  Young,  Captain  Cain ; 
ship  Eastern  Liglit,  Captain  Evan  Jones. 
The  captains,  mates,  and  men  of  those  ships, 
with  great  cheerfulness  and  good  will,  sub- 
scribed an  aggregate  sum  of  592  soles,  value 
nearly  $400.  We  announced,  as  we  went 
along,  a  meeting  of  captains  to  be  held  at  the 
British  Consulate  at  5  P.M.  We  held  our 
meeting  accordingly,  with  about  eighteen 


172  OTTE   SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

captains.  The  meeting  adopted  the  articles  of 
agreement  to  organize  The  Huanillos  Seamen's 
Evangelical  Society,  and  elected  an  execu- 
tive committee,  but  could  not  agree  on  the 
selection  of  a  resident  secretary  and  treasurer, 
which  seems  essential,  at  least  in  the  absence 
of  a  minister.  If  I  had  the  right  preacher  on 
board,  then  we  should  be  safe  enough  in  all 
our  arrangements.  The  captains  hoped  they 
might  be  able  to  arrange  it  in  the  fleet,  trans- 
ferring the  books  and  money-box  as  each 
secretaiy  and  treasurer  should  sail.  I  don't 
jet  know  what  they  did,  but  the  probability 
is  that  in  the  hurry  of  their  business,  the 
matter  of  completing  the  organization  and 
collecting  and  depositing  the  funds  would  be 
postponed  till  the  day  of  sailing,  and  then  with 
no  time  left,  they  one  by  one  would  be  off. 
So  I  hope  against  fear  for  both  those  fleets.  I 
have  not  the  slightest  distrust  of  the  men  who 
subscribed.  I  know  they  would  not  willingly 
be  parties  a  f arse  and  a  failure,  but  unless  they 
could  satisfy  themselves  of  the  safety  of  the 
fund  subscribed,  the  only  thing  I  should  ad- 
vise them  to  do  would  be  to  keep  it  in  their 
own  pockets.  I  did  not  receive  a  cent  of  it, 
though  I  perhaps  made  a  mistake  in  not  re- 


HTJANILLOS.  173 

ceiving  sufficient  for  the  passage  of  tlie  men ; 
still,  if  the  Lord  has  the  right  men  available, 
and  I  can  find  them,  I  must  get  the  passage 
funds  elsewhere,  and  send  them.  I  have  suffi- 
ciently prospected  the  field.  I  am  safe  in  tying 
on  to  the  seamen  who  do  business  in  those 
waters,  and  I  can't  consent  to  a  failure  at  all. 

Thursday,  9  P.M.,  Captain  Morgan  took  me 
in  his  boat  to  the  steamship  Lima,  of  the  P.  S. 
N.  Co.,  on  which  I  leave  the  coast  of  Peru. 
We  steam  along,  and  touch  at  the  four  ports 
of  Bolivia. 

1.  Tocopilla,  great  copper  mines  and  works. 
One  hundred  and  twenty  Cornishmen  at  work 
there,  and  no  man  to  care  for  their  souls.     A 
few  of  them  hold  a  meeting  every  Sabbath  in 
a  private  house.     I  saw  a  few  leading  men, 
and   proposed  to  send  them  a  preacher,  but 
could  not  stay  to  enlist  sufficient  interest  to 
secure  certainty  of  success. 

2.  Cobija, 

3.  Mejillones — two  guano-loading  ports. 

4.  Antofagasta,  my  next  field  for  work. 


ANTOFAGASTA,    BOLIVIA. 

LAKDED  here  Saturday  A.M.  the  2d  of  Feb- 
ruary. Was  generously  entertained  by  the 
P.  S.  N.  Co.'s  Agent,  E.  W.  Foster,  Esq.,  and 
his  widowed  mother.  I  was  pleased  to  meet 
here  an  old  friend  from  Australia,  a  genial 
gentleman,  Dr.  Neill,  the  physician  of  Anto- 
fagasta.  The  principal  exports  of  this  town, 
of  about  10,000  population,  are  saltpeter,  sil- 
ver, and  copper. 

The  great  industries  of  the  place  are,  first, 
extensive  railway  works,  under  the  general 
supervision  of  George  Hicks,  Esq.  Mr.  Clem- 
ison  has  charge  of  the  machine  shops.  There 
is  a  main  line  of  railroad  extending  back 
seventy  miles  to  Salinas,  which  with  various 
branches  makes  an  aggregate  of  about  one 
hundred  miles  of  railway,  doing  an  immense 
business. 

174 


ANTOFAGASTA,    BOLIVIA.  175 

J.  G.  Adamson,  Esq.,  has  charge  of  the  salt- 
peter works,  which  are  of  vast  proportions. 

John  Tonkin,  Esq.,  has  charge  of  the  silver- 
smelting  works. 

The  "plant"  of  these  silver  works  cost 
$450,000.  They  have  been  in  operation  four 
years.  The  yield  of  bar  silver  is  in  value 
about  $300,000  per  month.  They  have  reached 
as  high  as  half  a  million  of  dollars  per  month. 
The  steam  that  has  done  its  work  in  the  silver 
smelting,  and  would  be  wasted,  is  utilized  for 
condensing  water  for  the  use  of  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  town.  Mr.  Tonkin  turns  out 
24,000  gallons  per  day,  for  which  the  people 
pay  him  seven  cents  per  gallon.  The  fol- 
lowing exhibit,  by  the  favor  of  the  British 
Consul  of  Antofagasta,  H.  R.  Stevenson, 
Esq.,  will  tell  its  own  story  about  the  Boliv- 
ian resources  in  this  dry  region.  We  present 
here  the  exports  for  the  four  last  months  of 
1877,  multiplied  by  three,  giving  approxi- 
mately the  exports  for  the  past  year,  as  fol- 
lows : 

Of  saltpeter,  1,015,290  quintales,  worth  about 
83  per  quintale— $3,045,870. 

Of  silver,  446,250  marks,  worth  about  $10 
per  mark,— $4,462,500. 


176  OUK  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  COUSINS. 

Of  copper,  52,800  quintales,  worth  about 
$2.50  per  quintale — $132,000. 

Making  an  aggregate  mineral  export  value 
of  87,640,370. 

All  the  men  named  are  to  my  mind  liberal, 
generous-hearted  gentlemen,  and  most  of  the 
men  employed  by  them  seem  to  be  a  rough- 
and-ready,  generous  class  of  men.  I  made  to 
them  the  following  proposal : 

Antofagasta  being  in  need  of  a  school, 
in  which  the  children  of  English,  German, 
and  the  better  class  Bolivian  families  may 
obtain  a  good  English  education,  I  propose  to 
send  a  competent  teacher  to  supply  this  de- 
mand. 

As  the  residents,  travelers,  and  seamen  in 
this  town  would  be  benefited  by  religious  ser- 
vices in  the  English  language,  I  engage  that 
the  teacher  shall  be  qualified  to  conduct  them, 
and  do  the  work  of  a  pastor,  religious  creeds 
not  to  be  interfered  with  nor  taught  in  the 
school.  It  will  require  two  hundred  dollars  to 
pay  passage  of  the  teacher  hither,  and  at  least 
one  hundred  dollars  per  month  to  support  him. 
Passage  funds  will  be  required  in  April  of  this 
year,  the  other  monthly,  as  the  work  shall  pro- 
gress. The  school  to  be  made  self-supporting  as 


AXTOFAGASTA,    BOLIVIA.  177 

soon  as  possible,  and  thus  relieve  the  monthly 
subscribers. 

"This  agreement  to  cover  a  period  of  at 
least  three  years. 

"  Respectfully  submitted, 

"W.  T. 

"  ANTOFAGASTA,  February  2,  1878." 

Tli is  was  concurred  in  by  forty-seven  sub- 
scribers, with  an  aggregate  subscription  of 
four  hundred  and  ninety-five  dollars,  instead 
of  the  two  hundred  asked,  and  one  hundred 
and  forty-five  dollars  monthly  subscription, 
instead  of  one  hundred. 

This  may  illustrate  the  statement  made  by 
the  people  at  all  the  places  in  which  I  have 
wrought  on  this  coast :  "  There  will  be  no 

O 

difficulty  about  getting  all  the  money  you 
need  here,  if  you  can  give  us  the  right  sort  of 
men."  I  say  to  them,  "  I  have  no  hope  of 
finding  men  who  can  please  everybody,  but 
I  expect,  for  each  place,  to  find  a  man  compe- 
tent to  perform  all  that  his  engagement  re- 
quires— a  man  of  God,  who  will  do  his  duty 
conscientiously.  You  may  not  like  him  at 
first,  but  with  patience  and  further  acquaint- 
ance, you  will  find  him  to  be  the  right  man  in 
the  right  place." 


178  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

Among  many  new,  cherished  friendships 
formed  during  my  brief  sojourn  in  Antofa- 
gasta  was  an  acquaintance  with  Senor  Don  E. 
Villena,  Peruvian  Consul  for  Bolivia.  He  was 
Peruvian  Minister  in  Washington  for  some 
years,  speaks  our  language  well,  and  highly 
appreciates  our  country,  its  government,  its 
schools,  and  its  Gospel  ministry  for  the  intelli- 
gible instruction  of  the  people.  I  have  trav- 
eled in  company  with  him  many  days,  en- 
joyed his  genial  conversation,  and  got  much 
valuable  information  from  him  in  regard  to 
his  own  country. 

Took  passage  from  Antofagasta  on  Wednes- 
day noon,  the  6th  of  February,  for  Caldera, 
Chile,  in  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.'s  steamship  Potosi. 
Owing  to  extraordinaiy  tides  in  the  harbor 
of  Callao,  sweeping  away  a  great  deal  of  prop 
erty,  and  suspending  all  shipping  business 
for  a  time,  the  Potosi  was  a  day  behind  her 
time,  and  in  consequence  did  not  stop  at  Cal- 
dera ;  so  I  had  to  change  at  Chanaral  to  the 
steamer  Itata  of  the  Chile  line. 

The  first  mate  of  the  Itata,  George  Burton, 
showed  me  great  kindness.  His  father,  Col. 
Burton  of  the  Madras  army,  devoted  many 
years  of  his  life  to  Christian  work  as  an  evan- 


ANTOFAGASTA,    BOLIVIA.  179 

gelist.  George  is  a  noble,  energetic  fellow,  and 
if  converted  to  God,  and  called  by  the  Spirit, 
would  make  a  grand  missionary. 

Chanaral  is  the  most  northerly  port  of  Chile. 
Our  ship  Potosi  took  aboard  on  this  trip  250 
tons  of  copper  at  this  port.  It  is  cast  here 
into  solid  bars  of  300  Ibs.  each. 

The  steam  winch  winds  up  a  sling  load  of 
1,200  Ibs.  every  minute  and  a  half — a  very 
different  process  from  the  weighing  and  load- 
ing of  these  300-lb.  bars  which  I  saw  at  the 
smelting  works.  Two  men  with  great  iron 
tong-claws  clutch  a  bar  and  lay  it  on  the  scales. 
When  weighed,  two  other  men  with  their 
hands  lay  each  bar  on  the  shoulders  of  one 
of  our  burden  -  bearing  cousins,  who  receives 
it  in  a  kind  of  open  knapsack,  so  adjusted  as 
to  divide  the  weight  between  the  two  shoul- 
ders and  head  a  peculiar  cap  or  band  attached 
to  the  upper  side  of  the  sack  passes  round  the 
forehead.  In  this  Cousin  Cholo  carries  a  bar, 
and  tumbles  it  into  a  railway  car  that  conveys 
the  cargo  to  the  lighter  which  conveys  it  to 
the  ship. 

The  manager  of  the  copper  smelting  works 
informed  me  that  the  establishment  cost  two 
and  a  half  millions  of  dollars.  It  was  founded 


180  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

and  owned  ten  years  ago  by  our  cousin  Don 
Federica  Varela,  and  sold  by  him  in  1873  to 
the  English  company,  to  which  it  now  belongs. 

Chanaral  has  a  population  of  3,500,  1,200 
of  whom  are  miners.  The  total  exports  of 
this  center  of  commerce  for  1876  amounted 
in  value  to  $4,581,855. 

Chanaral  was  not  on  my  list  of  places  to  be 
visited,  and  I  had  never  heard  of  the  place  till 
I  got  nearly  to  it,  but  happily  a  young  minister, 
Rev.  Mr.  Langbridge,  and  his  wife,  had  arrived 
there  from  England  but  a  month  before,  to 
teach  and  to  preach,  and  had  commenced  their 
work  with  encouraging  prospects  of  success. 

The  P.  S.  N.  Co.'s  agent  in  Chanaral  received 
me  with  great  cordiality.  He  is  the  son  of  a 
minister  of  the  Scotch  Kirk,  who,  as  chaplain 
in  the  Indian  army,  resided  many  years  in 
Bombay  ;  hence  the  fact  that  I  am  a  minister 
of  the  Gospel  and  a  missionary  from  India 
allied  him  to  me  strongly.  The  Lord  bless 
him  and  his  family.  I  had  a  letter  of  commen- 
dation from  the  manager  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.  for 
the  Pacific  Coast — Noel  West,  Esq. — to  all  his 
agents  along  my  line  of  travel,  and  they  all 
showed  me  great  kindness,  which  I  am  glad  to 
acknowledge  ;  but  such  as  had  been  in  some 


AXTOFAGASTA,    BOLIVIA.  181 

way  allied  to  missionary  work  were  more 
especially  affectionate  in  their  attentions  to 
me. 

A  Eussian  fellow-passenger  on  the  Itata  had 
seen  me  in  Iquique,  where  he  has  a  wife  and 
two  children.  The  poor  fellow  was  suffering 
a  recovery  from  a  drunken  debauch — a  fine- 
looking,  capable  man.  He  took  me  into  his 
room  to  tell  me  about  his  father  and  mother, 
now  over  eighty  years  old,  who  were  daily 
praying  for  him,  and  writing  him  to  come 
home  and  see  them  before  they  shall  depart 
from  this  world. 

He  exclaimed  many  times,  "  Oh,  this  accursed 
drink !  I  shall  never  see  my  fader  and  mudder 
any  more  !  I  shall  go  down  to  hell !  I  can't 
quit ;  I  try,  but  the  very  first  day  I  meet  some 
old  friend  who  says,  *  Come  and  take  a  drink.' 
He  think  me  mean  and  stingy  if  I  no  drink 

o«/ 

with  him,  and  I  go  and  drink."  I  talked  to 
him,  and  prayed  for  him,  and  while  on  my 
knees  he  got  under  the  bunk,  with  his  face 
on  the  floor,  and  roared  in  the  agony  of  de- 
spair. Drinking  and  drunkenness  have  swept 
away  thousands  of  such  men  on  this  coast, 
and  not  one  teetotal  minister  of  the  Gospel 
between  California  and  Valparaiso,  a  distance 


182  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

of  six  thousand  miles.  Dr.  Trumbull  and  a 
few  of  his  earnest  men  have  lifted  up  the 
only  total-abstinence  flag  that  ever  floated 
on  this  coast. 

Never  a  country  known  in  greater  need  of 
Christian  workers  than  this  West  Coast  of 
South  America. 

I  have  put  a  godly  man  and  a  stanch  total 
abstainer  in  Callao,  and  by  the  grace  of  God 
we  shall  man  this  whole  coast  with  them. 

Let  us  thank  God,  and  unite  in  singing, 

"There's  a  better  day  a-coming." 

P.  S.— NEW  YOEK,  June  20th,  ,  1878.— I 
have  appointed  Prof.  A.  T.  Jeffreys,  B.A.,  ac- 
cording to  the  foregoing  agreement,  to  labor 
as  teacher  and  preacher  in  Antofagasta. 


XI. 

THE   LOira   STAB  EEPTIBLIC. 


THE  lower  half  of  their  national  flag  is  red. 
The  inner  square  of  the  upper  half  contains 
the  great  star,  on  a  ground  of  blue  ;  the  re- 
mainder of  the  upper  half  of  their  flag  is  white. 
The  tradition  is  cherished  by  our  Chileno 
cousins,  that  their  star  belongs  to  the  galaxy 
displayed  on  the  national  emblem  of  the 
"  Great  Eepublic."  They  are  pleased  thus  to 
designate  our  nation,  and  to  emulate  us  in  all 
that  pertains  to  good  government  and  progress. 

They  commenced  under  great  disabilities; 
they  have  passed  through  many  revolutionary 
struggles  ;  but  for  a  long  time  past  they  have 
enjoyed  peace  and  prosperity,  and  with  a  lib- 
eral provision  for  public  instruction  for  the 
rising  generation,  increasing  light,  religious 
liberty,  and  an  open  Bible,  they  are  bound  to 
develop  a  grand  nationality.  But  it  cannot 
reasonably  be  expected  that  their  growth  can 

183 


184  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICATf   COUSINS. 

at  any  time  be  so  rapid  as  that  of  any  of  our 
great  States,  even  if  the  internal  conditions 
essential  to  national  growth  were  alike  equal 
in  both,  for  they  have  no  such  streams  of 
foreign  immigration  as  pour  continually  upon 
our  shores.  In  a  population  of  2,319,266  only 
26,635  are  set  down  as  foreigners,  and  one- 
third  of  these  belong  to  other  South  American 
States.  Seven  hundred  and  seventy-eight  are 
from  North  America.  There  are  from  Europe 
13,147  males  and  3,828  females,  making  a  to- 
tal of  Europeans  amounting  to  16,975,  which 
are  subdivided  as  follows  :  —  Great  Britain, 
3,261  ;  Germany,  2,926  ;  France,  2,425  ;  Italy, 
1,670;  Spain,  1,029;  Portugal,  279;  Austria, 
203,  and  a  sprinkling  from  seventy  -  two 
smaller  nationalities.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind,  however,  that  by  the  laws  of  the  com' 
monwealth  all  the  children  of  foreigners  born 
in  Chile  are  born  to  citizenship,  and  hence  are 
not  noted  in  the  national  census  as  foreigners. 
Most  of  the  aforesaid  4,000  European  and 
North  Ameiican  women  are  mothers,  and 
many  of  them  have  large  families.  Suppose 
they  should  each  count  an  average  of  three  chil- 
dren, we  should  then  have  12,000  young  people 
and  children,  who  are  not  set  down  as  foreign- 


THE  LOXE   STAR  REPUBLIC.  185 

ers  ;  and  besides,  from  the  13,147  men,  discount- 
ing from  the  census  3,000  as  probable  hus- 
bands of  the  aforesaid  mothers,  we  have  10,000 
men,  from  whom  we  may  fairly  presume  there 
would  be  an  offspring  greatly  exceeding  12,000 
more,  for  a  very  large  number  of  those  men 
are  married  to  native  ladies,  of  every  grade 
of  society,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest ; 
so  that  the  whole  number  of  foreigners  put 
down  in  the  census,  multiplied  by  three,  will 
give,  approximately,  the  numerical  strength  of 
the  foreign  element  in  the  population  of  the 
State. 

The  total  number  of  deaths  in  Chile  for  ten 
years,  from  1865  to  1874,  was  506,011.  Of 
these  294,559 — more  than  one-half — were  under 
seven  years  of  age,  and  were  landed  safely  in 
heaven.  The  increase  of  population  in  that 
period  was  fourteen  per  centum.  There  are  in 
Chile,  according  to  the  census,  one  hundred  and 
one  women  for  every  one  hundred  men. 

"  In  the  besrinninff  God  made  man  male  and 

O  O 

female,"  and  paired  them  in  marriage  union 
with  each  other,  and  through  all  the  ages,  and 
amono;  all  nations  of  men,  He  maintains  His 

O 

original  plan  of  bringing  them  into  the  world, 
male  and  female,  in  about  equal  numbers  of 


186         OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  cousnsrs. 

each  sex.  The  British  Government,  in  the  sup- 
pression of  the  cruel  infanticide  of  the  Hin 
dus,  by  which  millions  of  female  babes  have 
been  put  to  death  by  their  parents,  orders  a 
census  of  every  suspected  district  yearly,  and 
if  the  male  largely  exceed  in  number  the 
female  children,  relying  on  this  great  law  of 
Providence,  she  proceeds  at  once  to  make 
inquisition  for  blood,  and  executes  summary 
justice  upon  the  guilty.  In  some  countries 
the  equipoise  of  the  two  sexes  is  disturbed  by 
emigration,  but  that  fact  rather  confirms  than 

O  ' 

contradicts  the  primal  law.  God  thus  in  ac- 
cordance with  His  written  laws  pertaining  to 
His  institution  of  marriage  maintains  a  stand, 
ing  protest  against  polygamy,  adultery,  and 
every  infringement  of  His  provision  for  the 
propagation  and  development  of  the  human 
race.  When  we  remember  that  w^e  are  "the 
offspring  of  God,"  and  that  "  according  to  His 
purpose  "  our  probation  in  this  world  is  simply 
preparatory  to  a  standing  in  the  royal  family 
of  heaven,  heirs  of  God  and  joint  heirs  with 
Jesus  Christ  "  to  an  incorruptible  inheritance," 
we  need  not  wonder  that  God  should  reveal 
the  laws  and  maintain  the  government  essen- 
tial to  a  realization  of  His  grand  ideal  of  glori- 


THE  LOXE  STAB  REPUBLIC.  187 

fied  men  and  women ;  hence  the  dreadful  con- 
demnation and  curse  entailed  by  a  violation  of 
God's  laws  pertaining  to  marriage,  or  the  abuse 
of  any  resource  essential  to  the  purposes  of  His 
marriage  institution.  The  wickedness  of  such 

o 

sinners  is  not  that  they  possess  a  sexual  appe- 
tite, which  is  common  to  the  race,  and  within 
the  limitations  of  His  laws  as  legitimate  as 
any  other,  but  that  they  allow  it  to  enslave 
the  noble  attributes  of  their  higher  "  soul  and 
spirit"  nature,  and,  thus  debased,  proceed  in 
defiance  of  God  to  destroy  the  essential  founda- 
tions of  good  society,  and  defeat  the  realization 
of  His  grand  purpose  in  giving  life  and  being 
to  man,  and  in  continuing  his  existence  in  the 
world. 

As  an  index  to  the  industries  of  Chile,  I 
may  mention  that  there  are  engaged  in  farm- 
ing, mining,  and  merchandise  570,599  men  and 
316,146  women. 

Professors  in  medicine  and  artists,  13,464 
men  and  5,550  women. 

Journalists  and  writers,  7,354  men. 

Sailors,  4,724 ;  and  soldiers,  6,838. 

As  far  back  as  1850,  under  the  administra- 
tion of  President  Mont,  the  government  initi- 
ated, and  has  ever  since  been  developing,  a  free- 


188  OUR   SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

school  system  of  different  grades,  drawing  its 
support  from  the  national  treasury,  to  tlie 
annual  amount  of  about  $800,000. 

Nothing  worthy  of  note  has  been  done  to 
found  English  schools  in  Chile,  except  in  Val- 
paraiso, the  Athens  of  the  Republic.  Rev. 
Dr.  Trumbull  and  his  friends  founded  a  good 
English  school  in  that  city  about  a  quarter  of 
a  century  ago,  which  under  the  able  manage- 
ment of  Prof.  Mackay  has  done  a  great  edu- 
cational work  for  the  country.  Many  other 
schools  there,  also,  have  contributed  to  supply 
the  growing  demand  of  the  people  for  educa- 
tion, among  which  is  a  good  German  school, 
under  the  direction  of  an  able  German  Protest- 
ant minister. 

27ie  climate  of  Chile  in  excellence  cannot  be 
surpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world,  and  is 
equaled  only  by  that  of  California, 

In  agriculture,  its  productions  of  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  and  other  cereals  and  vegeta- 
bles correspond  in  quality  with  the  same  prod- 
ucts in  California,  but  not  quite  equal  in 
quantity  per  acre.  Its  fruits,  too,  in  variety 
and  quality,  correspond  with  the  fruits  of  the 
Golden  State. 

The  following  table  of  Chilean  exports,  ex- 


THE  LO1STE  STAB  REPUBLIC.  189 

tending  from  1844  to  1875,  will  convey  an  idea 
of  the  variety  and  relative  values  of  their  prod- 
ucts. This  is  for  the  eye  of  the  statistician, 
and  hence  the  common  reader  may  skip  it,  and 
pass  on. 

CLASSIFICATION.  VALUATION. 

Wheat, $61,830,650 

Flour, 51,726,391 

Barley, 16,421,646 

Hides, 10,536,475 

Wool, 10,099,6:!5 

Timber, 5,261,749 

Cattle, 3,321,784 

Leather, 2,938,810 

Jerk  beef, 2,872,932 

Beans, 2,646,581 

Potatoes, 2,394,178 

Nuts 2,091,742 

Honey, 1,549,543 

Hay, 1,263,062 

Sheep,  Mules,  and  Horses,          .         .  1,252,630 

Suit  Meat, 1,181,588 

Linseed,      1,128,915 

Bran, 1,106,516 

Cheese, 1,067,927 

Butter, 867,434 

Lard, 808,430 

Beeswax,              745,015 

Common  Grease,         ....  702  080 

Indian  Corn, 501,597 

CSscara  Bark, 350,795 


Total $184,668,108 


190  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

The  Cuscara  bark  is  used  for  making  a 
cleansing  and  medicinal  wash  for  the  skin. 

Mineral  products  in  Chile,  minus  the  large 
yield  of  gold,  correspond  with  those  of  Cali- 
fornia, with  such  an  excess  of  copper  over  any 
other  country  as  to  supply,  until  within  a  few 
years,  two-thirds  of  the  whole  demand  of  the 
markets  of  the  world.  Her  supply  is  exhaust- 
less,  but  the  competition  of  Wisconsin  and  of 
South  Australia  has  sadly  depreciated  its  mar- 
ket value. 

The  following  table  of  the  export  of  the 
mineral  products  of  Chile,  from  1844  to  1875, 
I  insert  simply  for  those  specially  interested 
in  statistics : 


Bar  Copper, $155,077,806 

Copper,  partly  smelted,       .         .  84,515,195 


Copper  Ore,         . 

Ha  If -smelted  Silver  and  Copper, 

Bar  Silver,  . 

Silver  and  Gold  Coin, 

Silver  Ore,  .        .         .        . 


33,553,903 
13,189,958 
71,544,629 
21,263,964 

15,708,542 


Gold  Dust, 2,017,164 

Stone  Coal, 6,089,632 


Total,       ....  $402,960,793 


THE   LONE   STAR  REPUBLIC. 


191 


The  following  table  of  Chilean  imports  from 
foreign  countries  will  tell  its  own  story : 


Sources  of  Suj>ply  for  1875  and  1876. 

Increase. 

Diminu- 
tion for  '76 

England  .   .   . 
France  .... 
Germany  .  .  . 
Argentina    .   . 
United  States. 
Peru  

$15,702,808 
7,814,811 
4.162,138 
2,727,262 
2.133,443 
2,410,637 
786,804 
329,879 
492,776 
283,015 
198,615 
98,  780 
133,098 

$12,625,728 
7,503,498 
3,729,651 
3,097.736 
2,626,055 
2,480,323 
740,444 
733,855 
478,320 
453,168 
254,311 
115,464 
96,548 
62,613 
61,307 
55,522 
28,218 
25.080 
6,238 

$370,474 
492,612 
69,686 

'403,976 

'170.153 
55,696 
16,684 

62,613 
5,057 

$3,077,080 
311.313 
432,487 

46,360 
14,456 

36,550 

'522,934 
29,176 
14,008 
9,751 
25,316 

Belgium   .  .  . 
Spain  

Brazil  .  .     .  . 
Italv  

Ecuador  .  .  . 
Uruguay  .  .  . 
Cent.  America 
India  ... 

Portugal  .  .  . 
Bolivia  .... 
Polynesia.  .  . 
Paraguay  .  .  . 
China  

56,250 

578,456 
57,394 
39,088 
15,989 
25,316 
90,941 

Colombia  .  .  . 
Undesignated. 

Total.  .  .  . 

116,962 

26.021 

$38,  137,  500  $35,  291,  041 

$1,672,972 

£4,  519,431 

Diminution  in  1876 $2,846,459 

So  you  may  see  that  our  cousins,  in  this  salu- 
brious climate,  enjoy  the  good  things  of  other 
nations,  and  are  willing  to  pay  a  fair  price  for 
them;  but  for  a  few  years  past,  in  common 
with  the  rest  of  mankind,  they  have  been 


192  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

spending  too  freely,  and  now  they  are  curtail- 
ing expenses.  May  our  fair  cousins  pardon 
me,  if  I  suggest  that  they  could  help  to  relieve 
the  exchequer  of  their  husbands  or  fathers  if 
they  should  put  into  their  skirts  a  few  yards 
less  of  foreign  silks  and  satins,  or  else  not  fray 
them  out  by  trailing  them  along  the  dusty 
streets ;  and  then  it  would  be  such  a  relief  to 
pedestrians.  To  come  within  the  sweep  of  a 
lot  of  the  beautiful  creatures  of  a  dry  day,  why 
you  might  as  well  encounter  a  small  whirlwind 
on  a  dusty  plain. 

I  am  aware  that  ordinary  readers  do  not 
relish  statistics,  and  find  them  very  indigesti- 
ble, but  such  will  pardon  me  for  setting  before 
them  another  dish  of  the  dry  things,  for  the 
pleasure  of  those  who  like  them.  We  are 
not  bound  to  eat  every  thing  that  is  set  be- 
fore us. 

There  is  a  story  told  of  an  Indian  chief  in 
Oregon  who  was  invited  to  dine  with  a  colonel 
in  the  United  States  Army,  and  took  note  of 
the  number  of  courses  served  at  the  table  of 
his  host.  Soon  after  he  invited  the  colonel  to 
dine  with  him.  The  first  course  was  roast 
horse.  After  they  had  partaken  pretty  freely, 
the  chief  gave  orders  to  his  servant,  saying : 


AEICA   AND   TACNA. 


193 


"Take  him  off."  After  the  due  interval  he 
said  :  "  Fetch  him  on  again,"  and  it  was  "  take 
him  off  and  fetch  him  on  "  till  the  full  number 
of  his  white  brother  had  been  served,  but  it 
was  roast  horse  all  through ;  not  so  with  my 
courses  of  statistics. 

The  following  is  an  exhibit  of  Chilean  ex- 
ports to  foreign  markets. 


Nations  receiving  in  1875  and  1876. 

Increase, 

Decrease 
for  1876. 

England    .  .  . 

$21.033,490 

$21,380,322 

$346,832 

France   .... 

3,006,850 

4,449,866 

1,443,016 

.  .  . 

Peru       .... 

5,441,641 

4,449,923 

.  .  . 

$991,718 

Bolivia  .... 

2,228,875 

2,429,701 

140,826 

... 

United  States 

417,816 

1,085,602 

667,786 

... 

Germany  .  .  . 

927,810 

1,066,509 

138,699 

.  .   . 

Uruguay    .  .  . 

1,176,286 

746,383 

.  .  . 

429,30 

Argentina  .  .  . 

421,314 

474,579 

233,265 

.   .   . 

Ecuador    .  .  . 

175,728 

326,677 

150,949 

.  .  . 

Brazil     .... 

286,234 

281,984 

.  .  . 

4,250 

Cent.  America 

77,568 

195,142 

117,574 

.  .  . 

Colombia  .  .  . 

54,286 

109,171 

54,885 

Polinesia  .  .  . 

100,164 

89.133 

11,031 

Portugal    .  .  . 

2,668 

2,085 

.  .  . 

583 

Cuba    

1,300 

1,300 

Mexico  .... 

12,006 

1,000 

Yl,006 

Australia  .  .  . 

19,966 

.  .  . 

.  .  . 

19,996 

Belgium    .  .  . 

1,754 

.   .  . 

.  .  . 

1,754 

Unnamed  .  .  . 

663,136 

681,762 

18,632 

Total  .... 

$35,927,592 

$37,771,139 

$3,335,145 

$1,491,598 

Increase  for  the  year  1876, $1,843,547 


Chile  has  a  standing  army  of  3,000  men,  with 


194  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

a  national  guard  of  25,000,  and  a  navy  of  ten 
steamships,  manned  by  450  men.  The  Chilean 
statistics  I  have  inserted  may  serve  as  an  illus- 
trative sample  of  the  international  commercial 
relations  of  all  the  Republics  of  South  America, 
and  of  the  Empire  of  Brazil  as  well.  It  seems 
a  pity  that  their  commerce  with  "  the  Great  Re- 
public "  is  so  small,  but  it  is  owing  to  no  fault 
of  our  cousins.  Like  everybody  else,  they 
have  to  buy  and  sell  where  they  can  do  the 
best  for  themselves ;  but  they  are  anxious  for  a 
closer  alliance  with  us,  and  we  should  appre- 
ciate and  love  them  more  than  we  have  hith- 
erto done.  May  the  Lord  cause  His  face  to 
shine  upon  them,  and  bless  them. 


xn. 

CALDEKA. 

Tins  is  a  town  of  twelve  hundred  in- 
habitants, of  whom  157  are  English,  27 
North  Americans,  and  76  Germans.  It  is 
the  port  of  entry  for  a  vast  silver-mining 
district.  Its  commercial  importance  may  be 
perceived  by  a  glance  at  the  footings  of  a 
single  column  of  her  statistics.  Total  of  sail 
vessels  that  cleared  from  this  port  in  1876 
were  154,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  61,783  ; 
steamers  298,  with  a  tonnage  306,941.  Only 
about  half  the  sail  vessels  were  destined  to 
foreign  ports.  The  same  steamers,  about  sixty 
in  number,  touch  here  many  times  in  the  year. 

J.  C.  Morong,  Esq.,  the  American  Consul  at 
Caldera,  a  prominent  merchant  of  the  town,  is 
a  gentleman  worthy  of  a  hundred  times  more 
commercial  business  than  our  marine  service 
has  ever  furnished  him.  I  found  a  very  hospi- 
table home  at  his  house  during  my  brief  so- 
journ in  Caldera. 

195 


196  CUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

There  were  more  English-speaking  people  here 
a  quarter  of  a  century  ago  than  now,  but  they 
have  never  had  English  preaching,  except  once 
in  a  few  years  a  preacher  happened  to  spend 
a  Sabbath  in  passing.  Naturally  enough,  the 
most  of  the  people  have  lost  nearly  all  relish 
for  such  things,  but  are  nevertheless  kindly 
disposed  toward  good  men,  and  would  be  glad 
to  have  an  English  school.  In  consultation 
with  Mr.  Morong,  Mr.  Jacques,  manager  of  the 
railway  works  of  Caldera,  and  Mr.  Jack,  the 
British  Consul  for  that  port,  it  was  agreed  that 
the  Consul  should  issue  a  circular,  calling  a 
meeting  of  the  leading  citizens  for  that  night, 
Friday,  the  8th  of  February.  Mr.  Jack  kindly 
introduced  me  to  most  of  the  English-speaking 
families,  and  we  tried  to  prepare  their  minds 
for  the  work  contemplated.  About  fifteen  or 
more  attended  the  meeting,  which  was  held  in 
the  parlor  of  a  beer  saloon,  for  the  reason,  it 
was  alleged,  that  the  people  would  be  more 
likely  to  assemble  there  than  in  a  private 
family  parlor.  The  landlord,  of  course,  was 
very  attentive  and  kind.  No  one  patronized 
his  bar  while  I  remained,  but  what  they  did 
in  gratitude  for  his  kindness  after  I  left,  I  can- 
not say.  I  only  know  that  the  ardor  I  had 


CALDEEA.  197 

succeeded  in  kindling  in  some  hearts  for  the 
reception  of  a  man  of  God  to  teach  their  chil- 
ren  and  preach  to  the  people,  had  abated  con- 
siderably by  the  next  morning.  I,  however, 
visited  a  few  families,  and  was  teaching  some 
children  to  sing,  and  could  have  turned  the 
tide  that  day  and  made  a  success,  but  receiving 
a  letter  of  invitation  from  Mr.  John  Rosser  and 
Richard  Tonkin  to  spend  the  Sabbath  in 
Copiapo,  I  thought  it  my  duty  to  take  the 
train  that  morning  in  response  to  their  call. 
A  Rev.  Mr.  Sayre  had  served  the  Copiapo 
people  for  a  year  or  two,  but  went  to  America 
about  two  years  since,  so  I  would  not  go  to 
that  field  till  I  could  learn  certainly  that  Mr. 
Sayre  did  not  intend  to  return  to  it,  and  that 
the  people  were  not  in  negotiation  for  any 
other  minister.  So,  on  arrival,  I  got  Mr. 
Morong  to  write  Mr.  Rosser,  and  I  wrote  Mr. 
Tonkin.  Their  prompt  answer  was  that  the 
coast  was  all  clear,  and  they  were  anxious  to 
have  me  visit  them.  I  had  offered  my  services 
for  Sabbath  in  Caldera  at  our  meeting  last 
night,  but  no  motion  was  made  for  or  against 
my  preaching  to  them,  which  I  should  have 
taken  the  responsibility  of  doing  in  some  shape, 
had  I  not  received  this  call  to  Copiapo.  So  the 


198  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

people  of  Caldera  were  left  to  their  reflections 
till  the  following  Wednesday  A.M.,  wlieu  I  re- 
turned from  Copiapo.  Having  to  take  steamer 
that  afternoon  for  Valparaiso,  I  had  but  a  few 
hours  to  spend  with  them.  I  wTas  very  sorry, 
for  the  dear  neglected  people  of  Caldera  need 
help,  and  it  is  a  hopeful  field.  There  would 
be  no  difficulty  in  raising  a  school  of  thirty 
scholars  of  the  English-speaking,  and  it  was 
asserted  confidently  by  old  residents  that  the 
better  class  natives  would  patronize  it  largely. 
Accompanied  by  an  earnest  railway  engineer, 
I  spent  iny  few  remaining  hours  in  calling  on 
the  people  for  their  pledges  in  subscription  to 
bring  out  a  man,  and  nearly  the  amount  re- 
quired was  put  down  on  our  paper.  So  I  left 
the  work  in  the  hands  of  my  earnest  engineer. 
A  few  weeks  later,  on  my  return  north,  I 
made  a  hasty  visit  ashore  while  our  ship  was 
discharging  Caldera  freights,  and  found  that 
they  had  obtained  pledges  sufficient  to  bring 
out  a  single  man,  and  that  a  number  of  native 
families  wished  to  share  in  the  enterprise,  but 
specially  desired  a  female  teacher  for  their 
daughters.  The  general  conclusion  then  was 
that  anything  short  of  a  man  and  his  wife, 
both  competent  teachers,  would  not  fill  the 


CALDEEA.  199 

bill.  I  hope  they  will  succeed,  but  in  attempt- 
ing too  much  at  once,  they  may  fail  in  that 
which  is  quite  practicable.  Their  desire,  how- 
ever, is  not  in  excess  of  their  need,  nor  of 
the  resources  of  the  school  to  support  a  man 
and  his  wife  adequately,  being  first-class  teach- 
ers ;  and  I  don't  propose  nor  intend  to  send  any 
who  are  not  first-class ;  but  the  only  hitch  is 
the  want  of  a  small  amount  of  ready  money  to 
pay  their  passage  hither. 

P.  S.—  NEW  YOEK,  June  21,  1878.  — Have 
not  yet  heard  from  Caldera,  but  have  already 
ordered  school  furniture  for  that  with  the  rest 
of  the  places,  and  expect  to  send  them  teachers 
before  the  year  is  out,  if  the  Lord  will  have  it 
so,  and  I  believe  that  to  be  His  purpose. 


xm. 

COPIAPO. 

FOE  more  tlian  a  quarter  of  a  century  this 
has  been  the  central  resort  of  the  silver  miners 
and  traders,  attracted  to  this  region  by  the 
rich  silver  mines  in  this  district.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  20,000,  of  whom  there  are 
157  English,  27  North  American,  and  76  Ger- 
mans. There  are  in  this  town  and  vicinity 
many  Cornish  miners,  as  indeed  in  the  min- 
ing region  of  this  and  all  other  countries.  A 
very  large  proportion  of  these  are  tradition- 
ally Wesleyans.  Not  many  of  them  show 
signs  of  spiritual  life  now.  A  fossil  will  re- 
main the  same  in  any  country.  It  is  a  dead, 
unfeeling  thing,  and  can't  appreciate  moisture, 
nutrition,  and  cultivation,  so  essential  to  life. 
But  a  Cornish  Christian  has  a  religion  of  sap 
and  joyous  emotion.  He  must  assemble  with 
the  saints,  and  with  them  sing  and  shout  the 

200 


COPIAPO.  201 

praises  of  God.  He  must  sit  "  under  the  drop- 
pings of  the  sanctuary,"  and  be  well  watered, 
or  he  will  wither  and  die.  "  Planted  by  the 
rivers  of  water,  he  is  an  evergreen  ;  will  bring 
*  forth  his  fruit  in  his  season,'  and  abide  for- 
ever." But  plant  such  a  man  down  in  this 
great  "Atacama  desert,"  which  has  not  been 
watered  since  the  days  of  Noah,  and  he  dies. 

If  ministers  of  God  had  come  with  them,  as 
they  should  have  done,  and  opened  the  wells 
of  salvation  along  this  coast,  we  should  now 
behold  everywhere  streams  in  the  desert  and 
the  country,  foreign  and  native  alike,  set  with 
fruitful  trees  of  righteousness  planted  by  the 
Lord ;  too  much  "  red  tape  "  binds  unduly  the 
home  church  organizations. 

We  have  this  vision  verified  in  a  small  de- 
gree here  in  Copiapo.  A  few  years  ago  an 
earnest  Cornish  blacksmith  by  the  name  of 
Uhren  went  to  work  and  got  his  people  to- 
gether, sang  to  them  the  hymns  they  used 
to  hear  in  Gwenep  pit,  and  preached  the  Gos- 
pel to  them.  Many  were  revived,  a  Sunday- 
school  was  commenced,  and  although  Brother 
Uhren  went  away  to  California  years  ago,  regu- 
lar preaching  services  and  the  Sunday-school 
have  been  kept  up  ever  since.  To  be  sure,  two 
9* 


202  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSESTS. 

missionaries  in  succession  have  spent  a  few 
years  here  since  this  work  was  commenced, 
affording  them  some  help,  but  devoting  their 
time  principally  to  the  natives.  But  the 
Cornish  work,  conducted  by  laymen  before  the 
missionaries  came  and  went,  has  kept  steadily 
on  its  way.  John  Rosser,  Richard  Tonkin,  and 
Thomas  Mitchell  are  the  present  leaders  of  the 
movement. 

On  the  invitation  of  Bros.  Tonkin  and  Rosser 
I  came  on  Saturday  by  rail,  forty  miles,  from 
Caldera  to  Copiapo,  and  remained  three  days. 
On  Sabbath  A.  M.  and  night  I  preached  to  the 
people,  and  addressed  the  Sunday-school  of 
about  thirty  in  the  afternoon.  On  each  occa- 
sion their  room  for  worship  was  crowded 
inside  with.  English  people  and  a  sprinkling  of 
natives,  with  a  greater  crowd  of  natives  about 
the  doors  and  windows.  After  preaching  in 
the  evening  we  had  a  meeting  to  consider  the 
question  of  having  me  send  them  a  minister. 
Mining  here  is  very  dull  now,  and  the  people, 
both  in  numbers  and  ability,  have  been  reduced 
by  one-half  within  a  few  years,  and  hence  they 
have  only  half  the  ability  for  assuming  such  a 
responsibility  as  they  formerly  had.  The  same 
is  true  all  along  the  coast.  But  the  need  of 


COPIAPO.  203 

the  people  and  their  desires  are  such  that  they 
entered  into  an  agreement  to  raise  the  funds 
requisite,  and  requested  me  to  send  two  teachers, 
a  man  and  his  wife,  to  found  a  male  and  female 
school,  the  man  to  be  their  pastor  as  well.  It 
is  a  very  heavy  lift  for  them,  but  all  together 
they  can  do  it. 

Copiapo  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  of  the 
province  of  Atacama.  The  whole  province 
contains  a  population  of  69,000  natives,  547 
English,  and  52  Americans.  The  desert  of 
Atacama  extends  far  into  Bolivia  and  Peru. 
Copiapo  has  a  small  river  from  the  mountains 
passing  through  it,  hence  surrounded  by  farms, 
orchards,  vineyards,  ornamental  shrubbery  and 
flowers.  It  is  indeed  an  oasis  literally,  as  it  is 
in  religious  interest  and  organization.  It  has  a 
large  and  beautiful  plaza,  densely  shaded  with 
pepper-trees,  not  a  useful  variety  of  pepper, 
but  grandly  suited  to  the  purpose  for  which 
it  is  used.  A  plaza  with  a  fountain,  shrubbery, 
and  flowers  is  an  essential  in  the  make-up  of  a 
South  American  town.  Even  in  Antofagasta, 
where  water  costs  seven  cents  per  gallon,  they 
have  their  fountain  and  shrubbery  and  floral 
garden. 


XIV. 

COQUTMBO. 

THIS  is  the  next  port  south  of  Caldera,  and 
the  principal  commercial  center  of  the  province 
of  Coquirnbo. 

The  population  of  the  province  is  officially 
put  down  at  58,000,  over  800  of  whom  are 
English.  The  city  of  Coquimbo  contains 
12,650  inhabitants;  23  are  set  down  as 
North  Americans,  and  416  as  English. 

The  city  of  Serena,  nine  miles  distant,  has  a 
population  of  29,000  thousand.  Ovalle,  forty 
miles  away  by  railroad,  has  4,000.  There 
are  many  Cornish  and  Welsh  miners  in  this 
province.  Nearly  all  these  eight  hundred  for- 
eigners speak  the  Spanish  language,  and  this  is 
the  native  language  of  their  children  born  in 
this  country — a  body  of  agency  sufficient  to  re- 
flect the  light  of  a  pure  Gospel  to  all  the  native 
denizens  of  this  province,  if  they  themselves 
were  saved  and  endowed  with  the  pentecostal 
power  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

204 


COQUIMBO.  205 

The  value  of  exports  from  Coquimbo  for 
1876  aggregates  the  amount  of  $15,989,263. 

lu  the  same  time  there  were  cleared  from 
this  port  479  sail  vessels,  with  a  total  regis- 
try of  93,186  tons;  steamers,  498,  tonnage, 
498,360.  These  figures  represent  both  the 
foreign  and  coast  trade.  Many  of  the  same 
vessels  on  the  coast  trade,  especially  the  steam- 
ers, have  been  cleared  many  times  during  the 
year.  I  have  simply  selected  from  elaborate 
tables  of  statistics  a  few  index  facts  to  give  an 
idea  of  the  importance  of  Coquimbo  as  a  cen- 
ter for  evangelistic  work. 

About  one  hundred  and  sixty-nine  Welsh 
and  Cornish  people,  besides  a  few  natives,  live 
at  Guayacan,  nearly  two  miles  distant  from 
Coquimbo. 

Thomas  Francis,  the  manager  of  the  exten- 
sive copper  smelting  works  there,  is  also  a  sort 
of  bishop  of  the  town,  and  has  for  many  years 
kept  up  religious  services,  and  kept  up  also 
among  the  people  the  habit  of  a  regular  attend- 
ance at  the  house  of  the  Lord.  I  addressed  his 
large  Sundaj^-school  on  Sabbath  P.M.,  the  24th 
of  March,  and  preached  in  his  chapel  that  night. 
The  place  was  crowded  with  attentive  hear- 
ers. They  have  had  a  minister  for  about  four 


206  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

years  past — Rev.  Mr.  Jones,  a  Welsh  Pres- 
byterian. He  taught  school  week-days  and 
preached  on  the  Sabbath — the  only  English- 
speaking  minister  for  years  past  between 
Valparaiso  and  Callao,  a  distance  of  1,500 
miles.  *• 

Not  wishing  in  any  way  to  interfere  with 
this  dear  brother's  work,  I  did  not  expect  to  at- 
tempt anything,  even  in  Coquimbo,  and  hence, 
on  my  southward  voyage,  did  not  tarry  here. 
But  on  my  return  north,  Brother  Jones  met 
me  at  the  ship,  and  begged  me  to  do  what  I 
could  for  Coquimbo,  as  he  had  arranged  to  sail 
for  England  the  26th  of  April. 

So  I  stopped  a  couple  of  days,  and  made 
arrangements  with  the  leading  people  of  Co- 
quimbo to  supply  them  with  a  minister  of  the 
Gospel,  to  devote  his  whole  time  to  preaching 
and  pastoral  work  for  that  city  and  the  towns 
adjacent.  The  funds  for  passage,  and  over 
$1,000  toward  his  support,  were  subscribed 
before  I  left,  and  a  committee  organized  to  pro- 
ceed with  the  work. 

Captain  Grierson,  English  and  American 
Consul,  gave  me  valuable  help.  My  home 
was  in  the  family  of  Mr.  Robert  John.  I 
found  the  people  very  home-like  and  kind, 


COQUIMBO.  207 

and  was  sony  to  part  with  them,  but  expect, 
the  Lord  willing,  to  see  them  again. 

A  sad  occurrence  cast  gloom  over  the  minds 
of  the  people  during  my  short  sojourn  with 
them.  A  well-known  and  much  -  respected 
watchmaker  and  jeweler,  by  the  name  of  Wil- 
liams, was  traveling  on  horseback  in  the  night, 
near  Serena  City,  where  he  lived,  and  was 
found  dead  by  the  roadside  in  the  morning, 
his  head  badly  bruised.  It  was  supposed  that 
he  was  thrown  from  his  horse.  He  leaves  a 
wife  and  eight  or  nine  children  to  mourn  his 
loss. 

He  belonged  to  the  fraternity  of  Freemasons. 
About  one  hundred  and  fifty  persons  attended 
his  funeral;  a  large  number  of  them  were 
natives  belonging  to  the  order.  Rev.  Mr.  Jones 
read  a  funeral  service,  followed  by  the  Ma- 
sonic funeral  ceremonies.  One  English  and 
two  native  gentlemen  delivered  addresses  on 
the  occasion.  The  ceremony  was  closed  by  a 
native,  whose  last  utterance  was,  "  Adios,  her- 
niano,  Weelyams,  adios." 

The  Freemasons  have  lodges  in  all  towns  of 
note  on  this  coast,  among  which  are  many 
native  lodges,  though  interdicted  by  their  pa- 
dres. 


208  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

P.  S. — NEW  YOEK,  June  6th.  —  Passage 
money  has  been  duly  forwarded  by  the  Sec- 
retary of  our  Committee,  Thomas  J.  W.  Millie, 
Esq.;  and  I  have  appointed  Rev.  J.  "W.  Hig- 
gins,  B.A.,  as  pastor  of  Coquimbo  and  neigh- 
boring cities.  He  will,  D.  V.,  set  sail  from 
this  city  for  his  important  field  of  labor  on  the 
29th  instant. 


XV. 

VALPAEAISO. 

THIS  is  the  great  commercial  emporium  of 
Chile.  It  is  a  city  set  on  more  than  "  seven 
hills  "  and  precipitous  bluffs  facing  the  ocean. 
The  hills  are  in  semi-circular  position,  corre- 
sponding with  the  curve  of  the  bay.  The  city 
has  but  two  or  three  level  streets ;  but  these 
are  furnished  with  "lower  and  upper  deck" 
street  cars,  on  which  we  can  traverse  its  whole 
length.  This  level  land,  on  which  stand  all  the 
public  buildings  and  most  of  the  business  houses, 
was  mainly  recovered  from  the  sea.  Many  years 
ago,  as  I  was  told  here  on  my  way  to  Cali- 
fornia, the  ocean  made  a  desperate  effort  to 
repossess  its  old  claims.  It  sent  out  a  tre- 
mendous tidal  wave,  which  carried  a  number 
of  ships  into  this  part  of  the  city.  They  were 
laid  up  high  and  dry,  but  the  great  waters 
retired,  and  our  cousins  have  held  an  undis- 
puted right  to  the  soil  ever  since.  The  great 

209 


210  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

tidal  waves  of  1868  and  of  1877,  which 
wrought  such  devastation  in  Peru,  did  not 
trouble  this  city ;  and  the  great  blocks  of 
two  and  three  story  warehouses  and  stores, 
all  along  these  level  streets,  seem  to  be  indif- 
ferent alike  to  tidal  waves  and  earthquakes. 
Most  of  the  dwellings  and  the  school-houses 
are  located  on  the  hills,  many  of  them  on 
narrow  terraces  dug  out  irregularly  along  the 
brow  of  the  precipitous  bluffs.  We  reach 
these  partly  by  ascending  steep  zigzag  paths, 
and  partly  by  climbing  long  nights  of  stone 
steps.  A  night  view  of  the  city  from  the 
harbor,  when  all  the  dwellings  on  these  cir- 
cling hills  are  lighted  with  gas  or  kerosene,  is 
exquisitely  beautiful. 

By  previous  invitation,  I  enjoyed  a  welcome 
happy  home  at  the  residence  of  Rev.  D.  Trum- 
bull,  D.D.  The  Doctor  and  his  accomplished 
lady  and  family  received  and  treated  me  as  a 
brother  beloved,  and  laid  me  under  lasting 
obligations  by  their  great  kindness.  When  I 
preached  for  Dr.  Trumbull  in  this  city,  nearly 
thirty  years  ago,  he  was  an  unmarried,  ruddy, 
youthful-looking  man,  residing  in  the  family  of 
Mr.  Wheelwright,  the  founder  of  the  P.  S.  N. 
Co.  I  remember  my  surprise  at  that  time 


VALPARAISO.  211 

when  Mr.  Wheelwright  told  me  of  the  number 
and  tonnage  of  the  steamships  which  had  for 
several  years  been  plying  regularly  from  this 
city  along  the  coast  for  3,000  miles  to  Panama. 
Dr.  Tranibull,  though  venerable  in  years,  of 
rich  experience,  and  grand  achievement  as  a 
Christian  minister,  is  still  young  in  appearance, 
and  sprightly  as  a  college  Freshman.  His 
wife,  who  in  abounding  works  of  mercy  has 
been  climbing  these  hills  for  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  century,  has  become  very  corpu- 
lent, but  is  unceasing  in  trying  to  make  every- 
body about  her  happy,  and  hence  seems  al- 
ways to  walk  in  the  bright  sunlight  of  happi- 
ness herself.  They  have  four  daughters,  with 
one  adopted,  making  five,  and  they  treat  all 
alike.  Two  of  their  daughters  and  their  two 
sons  are  receiving  their  education  in  New 
Haven,  Connecticut. 

The  parents  are  giving  a  liberal  education 
to  their  children  with  the  hope  that  they 
will  use  it  all  for  God,  in  the  further  develop- 
ment of  His  work  in  the  Republic  of  Chile. 
Their  adopted  daughter  is  married  to  a  most 
loving  Christian  gentleman,  Mr.  Gomien.  The 
Doctor,  in  addition  to  all  his  varied  educational 
and  pastoral  work,  is  editor  and  publisher  of  a 


212  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

monthly  periodical,  a  royal  octavo  of  sixteen 
pages — The  Record  ;  also  a  similar  one  in  the 
Spanish  language — ThePiedra.  Both  are  gra- 
tuitously circulated,  but  are  supported  by  the 
voluntary  donations  of  friends.  The  history  of 
Dr.  Truinbull's  years  of  toil  here  is  nearly  iden- 
tical with  the  history  of  the  reformed  type  of 
Christianity  in  Chile. 

At  an  annual  meeting  of  the  Union  Church 
Society,  held  on  the  31st  of  last  October,  Dr. 
Trumbull  gave  an  historical  summary  of  the 
work  in  connection  with  his  Union  Church, 
which  I  copy  from  the  Record  of  November 
16,  1877: 

"  The  society  has  passed  •  to  a  corporate, 
chartered  form.  It  has  been  recognized  by  the 
Supreme  Government  and  for  the  first  time 
legalized.  It  will  be  a  fitting  occasion  for  re- 
cording some  of  the  more  salient  points  of  our 
history. 

"In  1844  a  request  was  forwarded  to  New 
York  that  a  minister  might  come  to  this  city 
to  gather  a  congregation  of  English  and  Ameri- 
can residents  and  seafaring  men.  The  Eng- 
lish Consular  Chaplaincy  had  been  estab- 
lished nine  years  previous.  With  a  hope  of 
benefiting  foreigners,  as  well  as  of  ultimately 


VALPARAISO.  213 

reaching  by  such  means  the  native  population, 
a  society  called  the  Foreign  Evangelical  took 
up  this  request,  offering  their  commission  just 
as  I  was  terminating  my  studies  in  preparation 
for  the  ministry.  I  had  asked  to  be  guided  in 
selecting  a  field  of  Christian  effort,  and  con- 
sidered the  indication  providential.  Being 
ordained  for  the  ministry  in  Valparaiso  in 
June,  1845,  I  sailed  in  August,  and  arrived 
here  on  the  25th  of  December,  Christmas 
Day. 

"  The  prospect  was  anything  but  encourag- 
ing. It  was  impossible  for  six  months  to  se- 
cure a  room  for  a  chapel,  until  at  last  we  ob- 
tained a  dark  and  diminutive  bodega  in  the 
Quebrada  Almendro.  At  the  end  of  a  month, 
however,  the  dining-room  of  the  Chile  Hotel  was 
offered,  which  was  commodious  for  an  audience 
of  a  hundred.  At  the  ,end  of  a  year  orders 
came  from  the  owners  in  Santiago  to  vacate  the 
place  on  religious  grounds.  Ere  another  loca- 
tion could  be  had  months  elapsed,  but  we  were 
allowed  to  remain,  until  at  last  we  were  settled 
for  six  or  seven  years  at  24  Calle  Aduana.  In 
1854,  returning  to  the  Quebrada  and  finding 
the  bodesra  too  strait  for  the  conorefration,  we 

O  o       O 

resolved  to  subscribe  funds  to  buy  land  and 


214  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

build.  The  task  seemed  herculean,  first  to 
obtain  the  means,  and  next  to  get  permission. 
The  result,  however,  was  that  in  April,  1856, 
the  church  we  now  call  the  old  one — that  sold 
to  the  Germans — was  dedicated  to  the  worship 
of  God,  the  first  Protestant  church  that  was 
ever  erected  on  the  West  Coast  of  Spanish 
America,  from  California  to  Cape  Horn.  We 
had  to  erect  a  board  fence  twelve  feet  high  in 
front  of  it. 

"  When  the  land  was  purchased,  a  question 
arose  as  to  how  the  title  should  be  vested ; 
and  a  legal  friend  (Dr.  Alberdi)  advised  nam- 
ing as  trustees,  or  fideicomisarios,  the  British 
and  American  Consuls  and  others.  In  1869 
that  building  had  become  too  small,  and  the 
present  edifice  in  Calle  San  Juan  de  Dios  was 
provided. 

"The  land  of  that  first  church  built  in  1855 
cost  $7,500,  and  the  edifice  $8,000;  of  this 
the  American  Seamen's  Friend  Society  gave 
$1,000,  and  the  rest  was  given  here.  The 
Society  immediately  became  self-supporting. 

"  In  1864  the  Union  Hall  was  provided  for 
Sunday-school  and  Union  meetings,  at  a  cost 
of  813,000. 

"  Four  years  later,  in  1868,  the  assistance  of 


VALPARAISO.  215, 

the  Rev.  Mr.  Guy  was  secured  as  co-pastor, 
until  his  decease,  which  occurred  five  years 
later,  in  1873. 

"The  present  church,  built  in  1869,  cost  for 
land  $26,000,  and  for  the  building  $31,000. 
On  this  day  our  indebtedness  is  $6,000. 

"  While  we  may  claim  the  credit  of  having 
been  the  first  to  build  and  occupy  a  church  in 
opposition  to  an  intolerant  law  of  the  republic, 
the  Anglican  congregation  was  formed  first. 
It  has  also  recently  been  in  advance  of  us  in 
active  and  successful  measures  to  secure  incor- 
poration. In  securing  our  charter,  we  had 
little  to  do  beyond  adapting  their  statutes  to 
our  rules  and  methods.  The  government  in 
Santiago,  without  suggesting  a  single  altera- 
tion, passed  the  statutes  as  they  were  pre- 
sented. 

"  At  the  close  of  thirty-two  years  it  may  be 
added  that,  while  we  have  here  assembled, 
gathered  from  different  portions  of  the  earth, 
and  differing  nationally  as  well  as  denomination- 
ally, yet  a  remarkable  measure  of  harmony  has 
characterized  our  history.  And  if  the  past  has 
not  Droved  a  failure,  there  is  no  reason  to  ap- 
prehend a  less  measure  of  success  in  the  future. 
The  principles  of  our  fathers  have  been  crowned 


216  OUE   SOUT1I   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

with  good  results  during  a  score  and  a  half  of 
years,  and  they  require  nothing  but  energy 
and  consistency  on  our  part  to  have  them 
serve  the  same  purpose  for  a  century.  AVe 
personally  may  pass  away,  but  others  will  rise 
up  to  take  our  places. 

"  Another  peculiarity  of  this  congregation 
has  been  the  frequency  of  the  changes  taking 
place  in  it.  There  may  not  be  ten  persons 
connected  with  it  to-day  who  belonged  to  it 
thirty  years  ago.  Often,  as  soon  as  persons  have 
come  to  be  interested,  they  have  moved  away. 
Although  this  has  in  it  a  measure  of  discour- 
agement, still  it  has  an  advantage ;  the  influ- 
ence of  the  church  is  felt  by  a  larger  number 
than  could  be  the  case  in  a  more  stationary 
community.  I  judge  that  2,500  persons  have 
been  connected  with  the  congregation  from 
the  first  day  until  now,  600  belonging  to  it  at 
the  present  time  ;  while  the  number  of  com- 
municants during  the  same  period  will  have 
ranged  between  400  and  500  :  to-day  150  are 
upon  the  roll.  From  these  facts  the  impor- 
tance of  our  enterprise  is  evident  to  all.  This 
society  occupies  a  position  that  can  be  made 
one  of  widely  extending  influence.  It  stands 

•  O 

at  a  point  where  there  is  an  ebb  and  flow 


VALPARAISO.  217 

People  coine  and  depart.  It  is  for  us  to  cast 
our  bread  oft  times  upon  the  waters ;  we  shall 
find  it  after  many  days." 

I  will  here  insert  an  additional  chapter  of 
history  from  the  pen  of  Dr.  Trumbull : 

THE   EPISCOPAL    CHURCH. 

"  Having  given  in  the  last  number  of  the 
Record  a  notice  of  the  growth  of  the  Union 
congregation  from  its  first  besnnninsf  we  have 

O        C  O  O7 

been  requested  to  furnish  some  items  bearing 
on  the  more  general  subject  of  the  develop- 
ment here  of  the  Protestant  interest,  and  take 
up  the  pen  now  to  answer  this  friendly  sug- 
gestion. 

"In  1823  the  Protestant  Cemetery  was  pro- 
vided. Land  was  then  bought  and  inclosed. 
There  were  at  the  period  a  larger  number  of 
Protestants  resident  than  one  might  have  sup- 
posed. In  that  year  twenty-four  subscribers 
gave  $1,138  for  the  object ;  of  these  subscrip- 
tions, two  only  were  from  commercial  firms. 

"In  1823  an  attempt  was  made  by  two  Con- 
gregational missionaries  from  Boston,  Rev. 
Messrs.  Parvin  and  Brigham,  to  inaugurate 
evangelical  work  here  under  the  American 
10 


218  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

Board,  but  for  some  unfortunate  reason  they 
became  disheartened  and  relinquished  the  task 
as  impossible  or  else  desperate  within  a  year 
or  two. 

"In  1825  a  Mr.  Kendall  is  reported  to  have 
conducted  the  Anglican  worship  at  the  house 
of  the  British  Consul ;  for  how  long  time  is 
not  quite  certain,  but  the  deceased  Mrs.  Fro- 
mont  said  that  when  she  arrived  here,  in  1828, 
her  husband  rented  the  house  which  Mr. 
Kendall  had  just  vacated  on  leaving  the  coun- 
try. 

"  After  that  Mr.  Sewell,  a  merchant,  used  to 
read  prayers  at  a  private  house  on  the  Cerro 
Alegre,  until  1837,  when  the  Rev.  John  Row- 
landson,  private  tutor  in  the  family  of  the  late 
Richard  Price,  Esq.,  being  a  presbyter  of  the 
Church  of  England,  was  requested  to  commence 
regularly  the  services  of  the  Church  of  Eng- 
land. His  term  of  pastorate  seems  to  have 
been  about  two  years.  Existing  records  show 
a  marriage,  No.  1,  solemnized  by  him,  July 
5th,  1838,  and  another,  No.  7,  June  20th,  1839  ; 
but  none  later.  The  first  baptism  on  rec- 
ord by  Mr.  R.  is  dated  December  17th,  1837, 
and  the  last  June  23d,  1839.  Twenty  baptisms 
then  are  entered,  nineteen  of  them  administered 


VALPAEAISO.  219 

by  the  Eev.  Alexander  Hy.  Small,  B.  D.,  chap- 
lain of  H.B.M.S.  President,  and  one  by  Hy.  W. 
Rouse,  Esq.,  H.B.M.S.  Consul;  ranging  from 
July  28th,  1839,  to  April  23d,  1841. 

"At  that  period  the  Rev.  William  Arm- 
strong came  to  Valparaiso ;  he  remained  ten 
years.  Chilian  ladies,  married  with  English- 
men during  his  time,  attempted  to  attend  ser- 
vice in  the  English  Church,  and  were  notified 
by  the  authorities  that  it  could  not  be  per- 
mitted. 

"  The  service  was  held  in  a  chapel  far  up  on 
the  Cerro  Alegre,  in  a  hall  attached  to  a  private 
residence.  The  Union  congregation,  called 

o      o  / 

then  at  first  the  Free  Chapel,  was  gathered  in 
1846,  likewise  in  a  private  dwelling.  The  law 
did  not  allow  the  public  worship  of  dissenters. 
"When  Mr.  Armstrong  left  in  April,  1852,  the 
Rev.  Benjamin  Hill  succeeded  him  until  April, 
1856,  when  the  Rev.  Richard  Dennett  entered 
on  the  duty  as  chaplain,  performing  it  (save 
an  interval  of  nine  months,  during  which  the 
Rev.  John  Buncher  served  as  his  substitute  in 
1867)  until  the  end  of  1869.  The  Rev.  Wm. 
H.  Lloyd,  the  present  incumbent,  became  pastor 
in  1870.  During  his  absence  the  Rev.  W.  B. 
Keer  officiates. 


220  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

"In  1858  the  present  English  church  was 
erected.  It  drew  the  angry  fire  of  the  Arch- 
bishop in  Santiago,  who  protested  to  the  gov- 
ernment against  the  infraction  of  the  Constitu- 
tion ;  his  friends  of  the  laity  petitioning  the 
President  to  have  the  edifice  l  razed  from  the 
surface  of  the  republic  which  it  dishonored.' 
This  firing  was  perfectly  harmless.  It  had  no 
effect,  unless  it  were  by  recoil,  for  in  1865  the 
article  of  the  Constitution  on  which  the  prel- 
ate sought  to  impale  the  administration  was 
explained  away,  and  so  interpreted  as  to  allow 
Protestants  to  have  as  many  churches  for 
public  worship  as  they  might  choose. 

"From  this  historic  sketch  one  or  two  valu- 
able points  merit  attention  : 

"  1.  The  first  form  of  religious  liberty  that 
was  obtained  in  this  country  for  those  not 
Roman  Catholics  was  connected  with  the 
burial  of  the  dead.  That  amount  of  freedom 
had  to  be  granted  from  the  moment  when 
Spanish  restrictions  were  removed  and  Prot- 
estants allowed  and  invited  to  come  hither  to 
reside. 

"  2.  The  first  effective  attempt  to  care  for 
the  religious  welfare  of  foreign  Protestants 
living  in  this  city  was  made  by  adherents  of 


VALPARAISO.  221 

the  Church  of  England.  Parliament  at  that 
period  aided  by  law  in  the  support  of  Anglican 
chaplains  in  foreign  parts,  and  by  that  benign 
provision  helped  pious  men  to  care  for  Scots- 
men, Englishmen,  Germans,  and  Americans 
who  were  scattered  as  sheep  without  a  shep- 
herd on  this  coast. 

"  3.  The  history  of  the  Protestant  enterprise 
in  this  part  of  the  world  shows  that  one  success- 
ful method  of  securing  religious  freedom  has 
been  to  go  forward  and  assert  it.  By  taking 
it,  Protestants  have  secured  it.  Burials,  bap- 
tisms, marriages,  and  gatherings  for  worship  in 
chapels  and  churches  may  all  have  been  illegal 
enough  at  one  time,  because  in  dissent  from 
the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  Chile ;  but 
as  the  number  of  persons  claiming  these  rights 
has  augmented,  and  through  courage,  become 
respectable,  they  have  come  to  be  respected, 
until  finally  public  opinion  and  national  legis- 
lation are  at  one  in  guaranteeing  religious 
liberty  to  all. 

"  There  is  only  one  point  remaining  in  this 
connection  now  to  the  dishonor  of  the  law- 
makers of  Chile,  and  the  annoyance  of  the 
people,  and  that  is  the  disability  laid,  in 
obedience  to  the  demands  of  the  Roman 


222  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

Church,  on  men  and  women  about  contracting 
lawful  marriages  when  not  of  the  same  creed. 
Let  this  be  provided  for,  and  the  country  will, 
legally  at  least,  be  free." 

The  disability  is  that  if  one  party  is  a 
Roman  Catholic,  the  other  must  become  one 
also,  unless  by  special  permission  of  the  Pope, 
which  is  expensive,  and  involves  the  obligation 
of  training  the  children  to  be  Roman  Catholics. 
Even  when  both  parties  are  Protestants  they 
can  only  be  legally  married  by  a  Roman 
Catholic  priest. 

The  "  Episcopal  Church,"  thus  early  planted 
in  Valparaiso,  was  not  by  the  Protestant  Epis- 
copal Church  of  the  United  States,  but  by  the 
Mother — the  Established — Church  of  England, 
which,  though  suffering  from  fossilization,  and 
from  internal  strifes  and  divisions,  excels  all 
other  churches  in  her  arrangements  for  ap- 
pointing ministers  to  needy  outposts  of  the 
earth.  The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  in 
common  with  others,  has  two  methods  of  ex- 
tending her  work  into  new  fields :  the  one  is 
a  consecutive  advance  of  the  regularly  organ- 
ized work;  remote,  needy  fields,  as  in  South 
India  and  in  South  America,  are  entirely  be- 
yond the  radius  of  this  method :  the  other  is 


VALPARAISO.  223 

by  order  of  the  "Mission  Committee;"  but  the 
neglected  people  of  those  remote  coasts  are 
neither  paupers  nor  heathens,  and  hence  don't 
come  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Committee 
on  Foreign  Missions.  But  the  "Church  of 
England"  never  seems  to  have  any  difficulty 
in  appointing  a  clergyman  to  any  place  on  this 
planet,  where  his  services  are  called  for ;  and 
until  very  recently  the  government  made  lib- 
eral appropriations  of  money  to  subsidize  any 
subscription  of  funds  from  any  part  of  the 
world  accompanied  by  a  call  for  a  minister. 
Hence,  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  earth,  where 
there  is  an  English  community  sufficient  to 
support  a  blacksmith  shop  and  keep  up  a  post- 
office,  we  will  find  a  clergyman  of  this  Church, 
doing  good  in  his  way,  though  not  generally 
very  spiritual,  as  seen  from  our  standpoint, 
and  will  by  all  possible  means  preclude  from 
his  field  any  minister  who  represents  what  he 
is  pleased  to  call  "  a  sect." 

Among  many  charitable  institutions  in  this 
city,  both  of  English  and  German  resident*,  I 
will  only  insert  a  notice  of  one  for  the  distri- 
bution of  the  Holy  Scriptures  and  other  relig- 
ious books.  Their  agent,  Mr.  Miiller,  is  a  Ger- 
man, and  was  converted  to  God  in  his  "Fader- 


224  OCR  SOUTH  AMEEICAX   COUSIN'S. 

land,"  through  the  agency  of  the  founder  of 
Methodism  in  that  land,  Mr.  Jacoby.  Bro. 
Mtiller  speaks  English  and  Spanish  fluently, 
and  is  an  earnest  Christian  worker.  The  fol- 
lowing notice  will  convey  an  idea  of  what  is 
being  done  to  scatter  leaves  from  the  tree  of 
life  for  the  healing  of  the  nation : 

BEBLE    SOCIETY. 

The  Valparaiso  Bible  Society  has  just  cele- 
brated its  seventeenth  annual  meeting.  The 
total  sale  of  Scriptures  during  the  year  termi- 
nating January  31st,  1878,  has  been  upward  of 
1,670  copies.  Of  these  more  than  200  have 
been  Spanish  Bibles,  550  Spanish  Testaments, 
and  593  Gospels.  English  and  German,  French 
and  Swedish  Scriptures  have  also  been  circu- 
lated through  its  agency. 

Respecting  other  volumes,  the  aim  is  to  dis- 
tribute such  as  may  serve  to  call  attention  to 
the  Holy  Scriptures,  or  to  explain  and  enforce 
the  truths  revealed  in  them.  The  total  distri- 
bution of  books,  not  including  the  Scriptures, 
has  been  upward  of  3,600.  Of  these  the  larger 
portion  have  been  books  in  English,  something 
more  than  1,800  in  all ;  though  upward  of 
1,500  Spanish  books  have  been  circulated.  Con- 


VALPARAISO.  225 

siclering  how  few  suitable  volumes  have  been 
published  in  Spanish,  adapted  to  the  use  and 
aims  of  the  society,  this  is  not  an  unsatisfac- 
tory account. 

Of  German  Scriptures  we  have  to  notice  sale 
of  45  copies  ;  of  volumes  in  German,  177. 

The  total  sales  during  the  twelve  months, 
in  money  value,  have  amounted  to  upward  of 
83,000. 

The  subscriptions  for  the  year  have  been 
82,500. 

Valparaiso  contains  a  population  of  about 
80,000.  It  is  the  great  commercial  emporium 
of  Chile.  The  number  of  sailing  vessels  en- 
tered in  this  port  for  the  year  1876  was  784  ; 
and  of  steamers,  449,  representing  an  aggre- 
gate capacity  of  815,139  tons.  It  should  be 
observed  that  many  of  the  same  vessels,  espe- 
cially of  the  steamships,  are  entered  a  number 
of  times  during  the  year. 

The  number  of  passengers  arriving  in  this 
port  during  the  year  1876  was  20,278;  depart- 
ures, 17,849,  showing  a  gain  of  2,429.  Arrivals 
in  1877  were  19,317;  departures,  15,133;  ex- 
cess of  arrivals,  4,186. 

10* 


XV. 

TALCAHUANA. 

THIS  noted  whale  -  fishing  station  is  240 
miles  south  of  Valparaiso.  I  arrived  on  Friday, 
the  22d  of  February. 

The  whale-catching  business  here,  as  every- 
where else,  has  greatly  diminished,  though  some 
are  still  taken  in  these  waters,  and  I  saw  a  few 
the  day  before  my  arrival  here  that  have  not 
been  caught  yet,  but  they  are  scarce  and  hard 
to  catch ;  and  now  that  we  can  strike  rivers  of 
oil  at  home  by  boring  a  hole  in  the  ground, 
the  grand  old  business  of  New  Bedford  is 
nearly  played  out. 

A  few  American  families  still  reside  here, 
prominent  among  whom  are  J.  H.  Trunibull, 
M.D.,  brother  of  Kev.  D.  Trunibull,  D.D. ;  the 
widow  Crosby,  from  Ohio,  and  her  son  Wm. 
Crosby,  who  is  the  American  Consul  for  this 
port ;  S.  J.  Stanton,  and  John  F.  Van  Ingen, 
and  others  who  are  merchants.  I  presented  a 

226 


TALCAHUAXA.  227 

letter  to  Mr.  Van  Ingen  from  Eev.  Dr.  Swaney, 
and  lie  entertained  me  most  cordially  as  his 
guest  during  my  sojourn.  He  is  my  right- 
hand  man  as  collector  and  secretary  of  the 
school  board  we  organized  in  Talcahuana.  Dr. 
Trumbull  is  our  most  liberal  patron,  but  Mr. 
Van  Ingen  is  the  more  available  for  the  hard 
work  requisite  for  such  an  undertaking. 

Rev.  Dr.  Swaney  resided  several  years  in 
this  town,  and  gathered  a  fellowship  band  of 
about  a  dozen.  They  are  scattered  now,  but 
so  far  as  I  could  learn  they  cherish  the  mem- 
ory of  their  departed  pastor,  and  are  trusting 
in  the  Saviour.  One  of  them,  Mrs.  Berry,  died 
in  the  Lord  a  year  ago.  I  met  three  of  them, 
one  of  whom  is  a  native,  who  wept  as 
I  talked  to  him  about  Jesus  and  his  love. 
Another  was  an  old  American  ship -master 
whom  Bro.  Swaney  had,  by  the  mercy  of  God, 
hauled  up  from  the  gutter  when  he  was  a 
poor  stranded  inebriate.  My  host  told  me 
about  the  reformation  and  steadfast  life  of  the 
old  captain. 

.   One  morning,  walking  along  the  beach,  I 
saw  a  sober-looking  old  skipper,  and  said, 

"  Good -morning,  sir." 

"  Good-morning." 


228  OUR   SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

"  Have  you  lived  long  in  this  port  ? " 
"Yes,  sir,  over  twenty  years." 
"  I  suppose  you  knew  Mr.  Swaney  ?  " 
"  Yes,  indeed  I  did.  He  came  to  me  when 
I  was  nearly  dead.  I  was  run  down  with 
drink,  and  given  up  by  the  doctor  to  die.  But 
I  had  a  dream  some  time  before  that  I  was 
drowning  in  the  bay.  The  surf  was  very  high. 
I  made  many  desperate  efforts  to  reach  the 
shore,  but  was  swept  back  by  the  receding 
sea.  Finally,  when  I  was  sinking  into  hell,  a 
great  wave  earned  me  to  the  land,  and  some 
one  lent  a  hand,  and  I  was  saved ;  so  I 
knew  froAn  that  dream  that  I  would  not  die 
at  that  time,  and  my  hope  helped  me  to  live, 
when  everybody  thought  I  ought  to  die. 
Then  Dr.  Swaney  came  and  told  me  about 
Jesus  Christ,  the  Friend  and  Saviour  of  sin- 
ners. I  was  instructed  by  my  parents  when  a 
child,  but  had  apparently  forgotten  all  these 
most  important  things.  So  I  put  my  case 
wholly  into  the  hands  of  Jesus,  and  he  cured 
me,  soul  and  body,  and  he  has  kept  me  ever 
since.  Dr.  Swaney  left  soon  after.  I  was  very 
sorry.  I  wonder  that  he  has  never  written 


me." 


"  Have  you  no  religious  associates  ? " 


TALC  All  U  AX  A.  229 

"  No,  I  have  nobody  to  tell  my  feelings  to 
but  Jesus.  I  am  talking  to  the  captains  and 
sailors  here  every  day ;  I  tell  them  about  this 
great  salvation,  and  give  them  some  books  to 
read,  and  pray  for  them.  I  do  not  see  the  fruit 
of  it,  but  Jesus  tells  me  to  do  it,  and  I  know 
it  will  do  good  to  some  of  them.  The  Bible  is 
my  constant  study,  and  Jesus  is  my  constant 
companion.  Dr.  Swaney  gave  me  a  Bible.  I 
have  read  the  Old  Testament  through  four 
times  in  the  four  years  since  he  left,  and  have 
read  the  New  Testament  through  forty-six 
times.  It  is  more  and  more  interesting  every 
time  I  read  it,  and  God  explains  it  to  me  in 
dreams.  When  I  am  on  shore  I  go  to  church 
every  Sunday,  and  worship  God  with  the  na- 
tives. I  talk  to  many  of  them  about  Jesus, 
and  they  seem  glad  to  learn  these  things.  I 
am  not  a  Roman  Catholic,  but  there  is  no 
other  worship  here,  since  Mr.  Swaney  left, 
and  I  never  debate  with  them,  and  God  blesses 
me  in  talking  to  them  and  in  worshiping  with 
them." 

I  spent  two  pleasant  hours  with  him,  hear- 
ing his  tales  of  varied  experience  and  extraor- 
dinary dreams,  and  opening  to  his  thirsty 
heart  the  fountains  of  Scripture  truth.  This 


230  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

is  the  kind  of  men  whom  the  Holy  Spirit 
teaches  by  "  dreams  " — persons  not  quite  able 
to  grasp  the  statement  and  spiritual  mean- 
ing of  God's  truth,  nor  to  discern  the  lead- 
ings of  his  Providence,  and  no  man  to  explain 
them. 

One  night,  during  my  brief  sojourn  in 
Talcahuana,  I  preached  twice  in  the  fleet. 
The  first  service  was  in  the  ship  commanded 
by  Captain  Landsay,  who  is  a  Christian  man, 
and  regularly  on  the  Sabbath  conducts  services 
with  his  men.  Our  meeting  was  so  interesting 
that  the  whole  ship's  company  of  officers  and 
men  accompanied  me  to  the  next  service,  which 
was  on  the  vessel  of  another  noble  Christian 
gentleman,  Captain  Jeffreys.  At  the  close  of 
each  service  I  stated  that  I  purposed  to  send 
a  2X>od  man  to  Talcahuana  to  found  a  school, 

O  / 

and  hoped  that  he  might  also  hold  informal 
services  for  the  seamen  in  this  port,  and  that 
they  might  assist  in  raising  a  fund  for  his 
passage  from  New  York,  if  they  so  desired. 
Without  any  begging  beyond  the  simple  state- 
ment of  the  case,  they  cheerfully  subscribed 
fifty  -  two  dollars  at  the  two  services.  Dr. 
Swaney's  old  captain  was  with  us  at  those 
services,  and  professed  to  be  greatly  refreshed. 


TALCAHUANA.  231 

Mr.  Van  Ingen,  who  also  was  with  us,  was 
astonished  at  the  lively  interest  manifested  by 
the  seamen  in  the  sendees. 

Said  he  :  "I  once  went  with  a  seamen's 
preacher  to  visit  some  ships,  and  the  preacher, 
after  talking  a  few  minutes  with  the  officers, 
said  in  the  hearing  of  the  common  sailors, 
"If  any  of  the  men  here  are  under  serious 
concern  about  their  souls,  and  wish  to  have 
a  conversation  with  me,  I  shall  be  glad  to 
talk  to  them.'  Of  course  no  one  was  dis- 
posed to  confess  there  that  he  was  in  distress 
about  his  soul,  and  the  visit  of  the  preacher 
did  not  amount  to  much,  so  it  seemed  to  me." 

I  find  wherever  there  has  been  any  earnest 
Christian  work  done  on  this  coast,  some  life 
and  verdure  remain.  Dr.  Swaney  is  held  in 
grateful  remembrance  here  by  hundreds  of 
people.  He  is  a  superior  preacher,  and  a 
sympathizing,  winning  man  of  God.  I  think, 
however,  he  has  made  three  great  mistakes  in 
his  ministerial  life :  1st,  when  he  left  Cali- 
fornia in  1853,  whither  he  had  been  sent  by 
the  Missionary  Society  of  the  M.  E.  Church ; 
2d,  when  he  left  Callao,  about  1860  ;  and  3d, 
when  he  left  this  coast  again  about  four  years 
ago.  I  don't  know  the  standpoint  from  which 


232  CUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

he  viewed  these  fields ;  that  he  acted  con- 
scientiously in  leaving,  and  that  he  did  good 
whither  he  went,  I  have  not  a  doubt,  but  the 
killing  need  of  the  fields  he  left  without  supply 
is  what  strikes  me.  When  a  man  of  God  is 
put  into  a  most  difficult  unpromising  field  of 
labor,  he  should  stick  to  it  till  he  works  out  a 
grand  self-sustaining  success,  or  till  he  can  see 
a  better  man  for  the  work  put  in  his  place. 

Talcahuana  is  the  sea  terminus  of  the 
"Talcahuana,  Conception  and  Santiago  E  ail- 
road,"  running  a  distance  of  365  miles,  through 
the  great  agricultural  valleys  of  Chile,  from 
Talcahuana  to  Santiago.  The  railway  works 
are  located  at  Concepcion,  and  most  of  the 
commercial  business  of  this  port  is  transacted 
in  that  city,  which  is  ten  miles  inland. 

The  following  partial  exhibit  will  convey  an 
idea  of  the  commerce  of  this  port  :  The  num- 
ber of  sail  vessels  clearing  the  customs  here 
in  1876,  coasting  vessels  and  foreign,  was  182, 
with  a  tonnage  of  38,428.  Steamers,  163,  con- 
taining an  aggregate  registry  of  134,086  tons. 

Value  of  exports  for  1876— $8,613,164. 

We  cannot  hope  for  a  large  number  of  Eng- 
lish -  speaking  scholars  in  our  contemplated 
school  in  Talcahuana,  but  hope  to  get  many 


TALCAIIUANA.  233 

natives.  One  native  gentleman  gave  us  fifty 
dollars  to  help  initiate  it,  and  it  is  believed 
many  of  the  higher-class  natives  will  patronize 
it.  It  is  a  very  needy  field,  which  must  grow 
into  great  importance,  commanding,  as  it  does, 
such  superior  transportation  facilities  both  by 
sea  and  land. 

P.  S. — JTT^TE  llth. — Mr.  Van  Ingen  has  duly 
forwarded  the  passage  funds,  and  I  have  ap- 
pointed a  thoroughly  competent  man,  Prof. 
Haylett,  B.  A.,  to  found  the  school  in  Talca- 
huana. 

God  bless  the  teacher,  his  pupils,  and  his 
patrons ! 


XVI. 

CONCEPCIOX. 

THIS  is  a  neat,  compact  town  of  about  20,000 
inhabitants.     I   presented  letters   to   William 

L ,  Esq.,  a  very  influential  resident  of  this 

city.  He  and  his  accomplished  lady  entertained 
me  cordially.  They  emigrated  from  the  city 
of  London  to  this  coast  about  thirty  years  ago. 
Their  children,  all  except  one  daughter,  have 
received  their  education  in  England.  They 
could  hardly  consent  to  part  so  long  with  their 
last,  and  at  once  expressed  a  great  desire  for  a 
good  English  school,  requiring  both  a  male 
and  a  female  teacher.  Previous  abortive  at- 
tempts, however,  cast  dark  shadows  over  our 
path.  Moreover  many  of  their  best  citizens 
had  not  returned  from  their  summer  "  watering- 
places,"  and  all  the  merchants  were  absorbed 
in  the  wheat  trade.  Owing  to  a  partial  failure 
of  the  wheat  crop  in  California,  and  a  greater 
failure  in  North  Chile,  flour  had  risen  to  $13 

234 


CCXXCEPCIOX.  235 

per  barrel,  and  hence  a  great  rush  in  the  wheat 
market. 

The  following  Sabbath,  the  24th  of  Febru- 
ary, offered  the  only  apparent  opportunity  of 
finding  the  business  men  at  leisure,  and  even 
then  they  would  most  likely  be  off  on  tours  of 
recreation.  So  I  had  my  subscription-book 
ready,  proposing  to  bring  out  two  teachers — a 
man  and  his  wife. 

I  depended  on  Mr.  L to  introduce  me 

to  the  people.  Noonday  came,  and  he  was 
not  available.  A  grand  specimen  of  an  old- 
time  London  gentleman,  overworked  with  ex- 
cessive business  as  a  merchant,  and  not  hope- 
ful of  my  success,  he  seemed  reluctant  to 
"  come  to  the  scratch."  But  soon  after  noon 
he  returned  to  his  house  where  I  was  waiting, 
and  with  him  came  Henry  Bunster,  Esq.,  to 
whom  I  had  letters  also.  Bunster  was  my 
providential  man  for  that  moment,  and  had 
come  sixty  miles  from  his  home,  on  other  busi- 
ness, to  be  sure,  but  the  Lord  arranged  to  have 
him  help  me.  I  gave  him  my  letters,  and  he 
at  once  recognized  me.  He  was  an  old  Cali- 
fornian,  and  had  heard  me  preach  on  the 
plaza  in  San  Francisco  many  times,  and  could 
never  forget  the  scenes  of  those  pioneer  days 


236  OUR  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

in  the  history  of  San  Francisco.  I  showed 
him  nay  book,  and  he  at  once  put  down  his 
name  for  $50.  That  struck  a  spark  of  hope 
in  the  heart  of  nay  kind  host,  and  in  ten 
minutes  we  were  off  to  see  what  could  be 
done.  We  called  first  on  the  "  Inteudente"- 
the  Mayor — a  noble  native  gentleman,  and  he 
unhesitatingly  signed  his  name  for  $50. 

Several  leading  native  gentlemen  subscribed 
each  $50,  and  we  should  have  easily  raised 
$1,000,  the  amount  we  asked  to  bring  out  the 
teachers,  and  initiate  the  school  work,  but 
most  of  the  men  were  absent. 

Mine  host  could  not  command  much  more 
time  for  me,  and  through  the  ensuing  week  I 
could  do  but  little,  except  to  return  to  Talca- 
huana  and  raise  nearly  $400  and  organize  a 
school  board  there. 

The  next  Sabbath,  the  only  day  we  could 
get  at  the  business  men  in  Concepcion,  John 
Slater,  Esq.,  one  of  the  American  railway  kings 
of  the  country,  helped  me,  and  by  Monday 
morning  our  list  exceeded  $800.  Many  liber- 
al men  being  absent,  it  was  considered  a  sure 
thing.  I  appointed  a  small  committee  of  three 
to  proceed  with  the  preparatory  work. 

This  is  a  country  of  plentiful  rains,  verdant 


COXCEPCIOX.  237 

hills,  fine  orchards,  vineyards,  and  farms.  I 
was  glad  to  meet  with  an  old  friend  in  Concep- 
cion,  Captain  W.  S.  Wilson,  and  make  the  ac- 
quaintance of  his  family.  He  is  a  nephew  of 
Captain  Wesley  Wilson,  who  commanded  the 
ship  Andalusia,  on  which  I  and  mine  went  to 
California  in  1849.  Captain  W.  S.  Wilson  ran 
the  first  sail  vessel  that  ever  went  to  Sacra- 
mento City;  and  on  his  second  trip  to  that 
city  took  thither  from  the  deck  of  the  Anda- 
///*/</,  the  "  Baltimore  California  chapel,"  which 
my  Baltimore  friends  had  framed  and  sent  with 
me.  The  captain  is  married  to  a  Baltimore 
lady,  who  came  with  her  parents  to  Chile 
when  a  child.  They  have  a  large  family,  and 
are  liberal  patrons  of  our  school. 

The  one  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  birth 
of  "  San  Martin  "  was  celebrated  with  great 
display  of  flags  in  the  day,  and  illuminations 
at  night,  while  I  was  in  Concepcion. 

What  saint  was  he  ? 

What  little  I  have  learned  about  him  may 
be  summed  up  in  a  few  historical  facts. 

The  war  of  independence  for  the  South 
American  Republics  commenced  in  1810. 
After  four  years  of  skirmishing,  and  some 
hard  fighting,  the  Spaniards  subdued  and 


238  OUK   SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSLNS. 

scattered  the  patriots.  In  1817  San  Martin,  a 
native  of  Argentina,  organized  an  army  in  his 
own  country  made  up  of  both  Argentine  and 
Chileno  soldiers.  The  great  Andes  ranges  of 
eternal  snow,  like  the  Alps  before  the  Cartha- 
ginian, stood  between  him  and  his  oppressed 
brethren,  but  he  brought  his  hardy  men  across 
the  snow  mountains,  conquered  the  Spaniards 
and  drove  them  out  of  the  country.  San 
Martin,  and  his  brave  officers  and  men,  then 
marched  up  the  coast,  and  rekindled  the 
patriotism  of  Peru.  After  a  struggle  there 
of  about  four  years,  Peruvian  independence, 
under  the  chieftainship  of  Simon  Bolivar,  was 
gained. 

On  the  29th  of  last  December  I  visited  the 
statue  of  that  hero  in  the  city  of  Lima.  He 
is  represented  in  a  commanding  attitude  on 
horseback.  I  penned  from  the  pedestal  of  the 
statue  the  following  brief  inscription,  all  in 
capital  letters ; 

A-SIMON-BOLIVAR- 

LIBERATOR- 
LA  NACION-PERUANA- 
ANO-DE-MDCCCLVIir 


COXCEPCIOX.  230 

The  date  simply  indicates  the  time  when 
the  monument  was  erected. 

On  the  centennial  birthday  of  General  San 
Martin,  Seilor  M.  L.  Amimategui,  Minister 
of  Justice  and  of  Public  Instruction,  made 
a  public  address  extolling  his  services  in 
the  great  achievement  of  emancipation  in 
1817.  He  said:  "Our  republic  has  not 
found  traces  of  its  origin  among  the  tablets 
and  parchments  of  ancient  historic  records, 
mounting  to  the  gods  as  its  progenitors,  but 
finds  restrictive  laws  that  hindered  industry, 
prohibited  commerce,  dulled  intelligence,  and 
declared  it  the  colony  of  an  absolute  and  des- 
potic monarchy :  the  slave  of  a  slave.  .  .  . 
Besides  the  Spaniards,  the  Chilians  had  to 
contend  with  three  formidable  enemies,  that 
counted  more  than  lesrions  numerous  and  well 

o 

disciplined :  these  were  prejudices,  poverty, 
and  ignorance.  They  could  rely  only  on  their 
own  heart  and  arm." 

Speaking  of  the  battle  of  Chacabuco,  in  which 
San  Martin  defeated  the  Spanish  army,  Febru- 
ary 12th,  1817,  after  crossing  the  Andes,  Senor 
Amunategui  said  :  "  For  my  part,  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Cordillera  was  an  achievement  still 
more  astonishing  than  those  two  days  of  bat- 


OUK  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

tie  crowned  with  glory.     The  leading  of  an 
army  among  the  rocks  and  precipices, 
that  we  call  the  Andes,  is  a  deed  of  daring 
and  energy  that  few  generals  have  to  show  in 
their  record  of  service." 

The  Spanish  Government  never  acknowl- 
edged the  independence  of  the  Republic  of 
Peru,  though  it  did  of  Chile.  In  1866,  when 
the  Spaniards  were  greatly  in  need  of  funds, 
they  remembered  the  Chincha  Islands  as  a 
paying  concern,  so  they  fitted  out  a  fleet  of 
seven  war  ships  to  proceed  to  the  Pacific 
coast,  and,  under  a  show  of  law,  which  they 
termed  "  re- vindication,"  to  take  possession  of 
the  Chincha  Islands.  The  results  of  that  ex- 
pedition against  our  cousins  may  be  summed 
up  in  a  few  words : 

1st.  The  fleet  came  to  Valparaiso,  and  the  offi- 
cers were  f  Gted,  and  grand  entertainments  were 
given  to  the  admiral  at  the  Chilean  capital. 

2d.  The  fleet  weighed  anchor  and  left,  but 
the  next  news  told  the  story  that  the  Span- 
iards were  in  possession  of  the  Chincha  Islands. 

3d.  The  Chilean  newspapers  took  sides 
with  Peru,  and  spoke  out  very  freely. 

4th.  The  fleet  returned  to  Chile  and  de- 
manded reparation  for  the  insult.  The 


COKCEPCIOX.  241 

Chilenos  maintained  their  ground,  but  tried 
to  explain,  and  to  vindicate  their  position. 
Their  explanations  were  accepted  by  the 
Spanish  minister  of  state,  and  it  was  supposed 
that  they  would  hear  no  more  about  it,  but  in 
due  time  orders  came  from  Spain,  demanding 
the  government  authorities  of  Chile  to  salute 
the  Spanish  flag,  and  then  treat.  They  refused 
to  do  anything  of  the  sort. 

5th.  The  Spaniards  blockaded  the  Chilean 
ports,  but  a  Chilean  corvette  captured  one  of 
the  Spanish  war  vessels,  which  Cousin  Chileno 
holds  to-day. 

6th.  The  Spanish  fleet  fired  into  the  city  of 
Valparaiso  for  three  hours,  burned  the  custom 
house  and  a  few  million  dollars'  worth  of  pub- 
lic property,  and  then  sailed  for  Callao,  Peru. 

7th.  The  Peruvian  batteries  gave  them  a 
warm  reception,  and  poured  a  hail-storm  of  can- 
non-balls into  them,  and  it  is  said  tore  a  hole 
twelve  feet  long  in  one  of  their  ships.  The 
fleet  was  thus  kept  so  distant  that  not  much 
damage  was  done  to  the  town,  and  after  nearly 
a  day  of  mutual  salutations  of  that  sort,  the 
Spanish  fleet  departed,  and  has  not  been  seen 
in  these  waters  since.  There  has  been  no 
reconciliation,  and  no  friendly  intercourse  be- 


242  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

tween  these  nations  since,  except  that  through 
the  friendly  mediation  of  our  government  they 
have  agreed  not  to  renew  hostilities  on  either 
side  without  timely  notice.  The  thing  resulted 
in  great  damage  to  Spanish  commercial  in- 
terests on  this  coast.  Our  South  American 
cousins  are  tremendous  fellows  to  fight  when 
their  patriotic  fire  gets  to  a  white  heat.  Their 
great  weakness  is  in  fighting  each  other. 

In  Concepcion  we  arranged  to  open  a  school, 
to  commence  with  forty  scholars,  with  good 
prospects  of  increase  and  permanence. 

I  had  to  leave  on  Monday  morning,  the  24th 
of  March.  I  was  sorry  I  could  not  remain 
longer  to  cultivate  the  acquaintance  of  the 
very  intelligent  and  kind  gentlemen,  both  for- 
eign and  native,  whom  I  met  in  Concepcion, 
and  who  are  the  patrons  of  our  contemplated 
school. 

P.  S. — JUNE,  1878. — I  have  secured  for  Con- 
cepcion three  thoroughly  good  teachers — 
Prof.  W.  A.  Wright,  Miss  Sarah  E.  Longley, 
and  Miss  Lelia  H.  Waterhouse,  who  are  to  sail 
from  New  York  on  the  1st  of  July  proximo. 

HOW    OUR    COUSESTS    ARE    C01STVERTED. 

I   said  to  a  lady  on   this  coast,  "  I   knew 


HOW   OUR  COUSINS   ARE   CONVERTED.         243 

many  of  your  people  in  the  United  States,  and 
I  think  they  were  all  earnest  Methodists." 

"  Yes,  they  were  Methodists  of  the  strict- 
est sort,  and  my  parents  also.  They-  came  to 
Chile  when  I  was  a  child.  My  youngest  sister 
was  not  baptized  till  she  was  seven  years  old, 
when  Mr.  Swaney  came.  My  mother  never 
would  consent  to  let  her  be  baptized  by  a 
priest.  But  when  she  grew  up  she  became 
eu2rao;ed  to  a  native  gentleman,  and  could  not 

o    o  o  / 

be  married  till  she  consented  to  be  a  Roman 
Catholic,  and  in  the  process  of  converting  her 
they  greased  her  with  oil  and  salted  her. 

"  So  as  niy  children  are  growing  up  in  this 
country,  and  will  probably  spend  their  lives  in 
it,  rather  than  have  them  subjected  to  all  that 
nonsense  after  they  are  grown  up,  I  have  them 
all  baptized  while  little  children  by  the  Roman 
Catholic  priest. 

"  When  they  grow  up,  they  can  choose  for 
themselves." 

The  following  notice  of  the  baptism  in  San- 
tiago of  two  English  converts  to  the  Roman 
Church  from  Protestantism,  says  the  Record,  we 
find  in  one  of  the  daily  papers,  and  translate  it, 
omitting  the  names  of  those  concerned.  Of 

O 

these  special  instances  we  know  nothing,  only 


244  OUR   SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

in  many  similar  cases  marriage  has  been  the 
converting  ordinance : 

"The  neophytes,  who  know  very  few  words 
of  the  Spanish  language,  sought  the  Rev. 
Father  P.  A.  Valenzuela,  friar  of  the  order  of 
Mercy,  who  is  a  complete  polyglot,  possessing 
about  twenty  languages,  ...  a  Chilian 
priest  lately  arrived  from  Ecuador.  .  .  . 
The  ceremony  of  baptism  of  adults  is  very 
curious.  The  postulants  remained  outside  the 
church,  and  the  priest  from  the  threshold 
asked  them  what  they  desired. 

"'The  faith,'  they  replied. 

" l  The  faith  will  give  you  life  eternal,7  an- 
swered the  priest. 

"Afterward  he  breathed  three  times  in  the 
faces  of  the  neophytes,  saying,  l  Come  out,  un- 
clean spirit,  and  give  place  to  the  Holy  Spirit. 
Peace  be  with  you.' 

"Then  he  made  the  sign  of  the  cross  on 
their  ears,  mouth,  eyes,  nose  and  hands.  Next 
he  put  salt  in  their  mouths,  as  is  done  with 
infants,  saying  to  them,  'Receive  the  salt  of 
wisdom.'  The  catechumens  knelt  and  repeated 
the  Lord's  Prayer.  Father  Valenzuela,  taking 
them  by  the  right  hand,  led  them  into  the 
church,  saying,  '  Enter  into  the  Church  of  God, 


HOW   OUE   COUSIXS   ARE   CONVERTED.         245 

that  ye  may  have  right  to  life  eternal.'  The 
Protestants  cast  themselves  upon  the  ground 
and  repeated  the  Creed.  This  done,  the  priest 
placed  his  thumb  on  the  tongue  and  next 
passed  it  over  the  noses  and  ears  of  the  cate- 
chumens. Finally  he  anointed  their  breasts 
with  oil,  he  cast  water  on  their  heads,  he  put  a 
candle  in  their  hands  and  a  white  cloth  on 
their  heads,  and  after  various  prayers  con- 
cluded the  ceremony." 

In  Peru  foreigners  wishing  to  get  married 
must  have  the  legal  ceremony  performed  by 
the  diplomatic  minister,  or  a  consul  of  their  own 
country,  and  then  they  can  take  their  papers  to 
a  clergyman,  and  get  an  ecclesiastical  marriage. 

In  Chile,  however,  though  in  advance  of 
Peru  in  granting  religious  liberty,  the  foreign- 
ers are  obliged  to  go  to  a  Roman  Catholic 
priest  for  the  legal  marriage,  and  then  go  to 
their  own  preacher.  But  in  neither  country 
is  a  foreigner  allowed  to  marry  a  native,  except 
by  vowing  to  become  a  Roman  Catholic,  or  by 
obtaining  a  special  dispensation  from  the  Pope. 
In  the  latter  case  bonds  are  given  to  bring  up 
the  children  resulting  from  the  marriage  in 
the  Roman  Catholic  faith.  I  heard  of  one 
exceptional  case  in  Callao.  A  Russian  German 


246  OUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSIXS. 

whom  I  visited  in  Callao,  told  me  a  part  of 
his  matrimonial  experience. 

Said  lie,  "I  became  engaged  to  many  a 
Roman  Catliolic  girl.  I  asked  the  priest  if  he 
would  marry  me. 

"  He  said,  '  I  must  consult  the  bishop  first ; 
come  to-morrow.'  So  I  called  upon  him  at 
the  time  appointed,  and  he  said,  'I  have  got 
the  consent  of  the  bishop,  so  if  you  will  come 
to-morrow,  I  will  many  you.' 

"  So  I  went  next  day  to  get  married,  but  he 
said,  '  I  can't  many  you  to-day ;  come  again  to- 


morrow.' 


"  I  went  again,  and  he  said,  '  I  am  not  ready 
yet ;  come  to-morrow.' 

"It  was  enough  to  make  a  good  man  swear, 
but  I  took  it  as  patiently  as  I  could. 

"  I  went  again  at  the  time  appointed,  and  the 
priest  said,  '  I  can't  many  you  at  all  unless 
you  sign  an  agreement  to  become  a  Roman 
Catholic.' 

"  I  said,  l  All  right,  I  must  get  married  at  any 
cost.'  He  said,  'Very  well,  I'll  have  every- 
thing ready  for  you  to-morrow.'  I  took  with 
me  some  of  my  own  people  as  witnesses  of  the 
marriage.  The  papers  designed  to  bind  me 
to  Romanism  were  all  ready  for  my  signature, 


HOW   OUR  COUSINS   ARE   CONVERTED.         247 

but  lie  proceeded  with  the  ceremony,  and 
afterward  said,  '  Now  sign  these  papers.' 

"  I  said,  '  I  am  a  Protestant.' 

"'But  did  not  you  promise  to  become  a 
Roman  Catholic  ? ' 

" '  Yes,  but  with  a  mental  reservation.  I  am 
nothing  but  a  rough  sailor,  and  don't  make 
much  pretension  to  religion  ;  but  you  profess 
to  be  a  minister  of  God,  and  yet  you  broke 
your  promise  to  me  four  times,  and  I  will  break 
my  promise  to  you  only  once.' 

" '  Ah,  you  villain  !  I  am  not  going  to  let  you 
off  that  way ;  you  shall  not  have  this  woman 
for  your  wife.' 

"  I  said  to  the  girl,  '  Are  you  not  my  wif e  ? ' 

" '  Yes,  we  have  been  pronounced  husband 
and  wife  by  the  priest.' 

"  I  said  to  my  companions,  l  Shipmates,  are 
you  not  witnesses  that  I  have  been  well  and 
truly  married  to  this  woman  ? ' 

"'Yes,  we  are  witnesses;  we  are  ready  to 
swear  to  that  any  day.' 

"Then  I  said,  'Come,  wife,  let  us  go,'  and 
away  we  went. 

"  I  never  troubled  the  woman  about  her  re- 
ligion, and  she  was  a  most  amiable  and  kind 
wife  to  me  for  seventeen  years,  when  she  died." 


XVII. 

MY   CHILEAN   RAILROAD   TOUR. 

take  the  cars  in  Concepcion  Monday 
morning,  the  4th  of  March.  The  skies  are 
bright,  the  air  balmy  and  bracing.  The  wheat 
harvests  have  been  gathered,  and  the  dry  stub- 
ble fields  give  the  country  a  barren  appearance, 
but  this  is  relieved  by  the  orchards  and  vine- 
yards opening  to  view  on  every  hand,  loaded 
with  fruit. 

For  forty  miles  our  course  is  north-easterly, 
along  the  banks  of  the  river  Bia  Bia,  navigable 
for  fifty  miles  by  small  steamers.  Now  we 
leave  the  river  and  strike  northerly  through 
the  great  valley  of  the  Republic  lying  between 
the  coast  range  of  mountains  and  the  Andes. 
It  varies  in  width  from  fifteen  to  forty  miles, 
with  innumerable  right- angular  valleys  extend- 
ing far  into  the  glens  of  the  mountains.  This 
is  a  great  wheat-producing  country.  The  fact 
is,  with  this  climate  and  soil  and  the  abundant 

248 


MY   CHILEAN   KAILBOAD  TOUE.  249 

rainfall  of  every  year  in  this  latitude,  they 
can  grow  everything  that  any  market  could 
desire.  But  from  all  we  can  see  along  this  line 
of  travel  the  cultivation  is  poor.  Just  look  at 
those  plows,  two  sticks  of  wood  partly  mor- 
tised and  partly  tied  together  with  rawhide 
ropes.  To  this  ancient  contrivance  a  pair  of 
oxen  are  attached,  with  the  yoke  tied  fast  to 
their  horns.  There  are  no  handles  by  which 
to  steady  and  guide  the  plow.  Our  farmer 
cousin  simply  holds  on  to  the  top  of  the  up- 
right beam,  and  guides  the  point  of  the  lower 
end,  which  is  supposed  to  do  the  execution  in 
the  soil.  American  plows  have  been  intro- 
duced, and  used  in  moderation  in  some  parts, 
but  they  cost  money,  both  to  import,  and  to 
keep  them  in  repair.  This  old  Roman  model, 
the  same  which  is  used  in  India,  is  a  simple 
construction  that  Cousin  Chileno  can  make, 
and  repair  himself,  at  no  cost,  scarcely,  but  a 
little  time,  and  that  is  of  but  little  value  to 
him. 

Moreover,  Cousin  Chileno  says  his  plow  suits 
the  clay  soil  of  this  country  better  than  ours. 
It  can't  turn  the  sod,  but  it  cuts  its  little  fur- 
row trenches  over  six  inches  deep,  through 
which  the  rains  penetrate  the  soil  readily. 
11* 


250  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

But  our  plowshare  makes  a  smooth  hard  pan 
at  the  bottom  of  every  furrow,  which  inter- 
feres both  with  the  deep  percolation  of  the 
water,  and  the  penetration  of  the  top  roots  of 
the  grain. 

And  see  those  wagons,  or  rather  carts.  The 
wheels  are  simply  six-inch  cuts,  sawn  from  a 
large  log,  and  an  axle  hole  bored  in  the  center. 
The  hole  enlarges  with  use,  sometimes  more  on 
one  side  than  on  the  other,  and  such  a  creak- 
ing noise  ! — files  and  saws,  or  uugreased  friction 
of  hard  substances  of  every  sort — we  can't  get 
a  figure  of  comparison  to  convey  the  idea;  why, 
anywhere  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  it  is 
enough  to  frighten  the  horses.  I  remember 
how  the  old  carts  of  Valparaiso,  twenty-nine 
years  ago,  made  me  stare  and  wonder.  When 
I  recently  returned  to  Valparaiso  and  saw  the 
fine  carnages,  street  and  rail  cars,  and  not  the 
track  of  one  of  these  old  wheelers  left,  I 
thought,  Well,  those  old  carts  have  had  their 
day,  and  disappeared  before  the  rolling  advance 
of  modem  improvement;  but  here  they  are 
squeaking  away,  as  in  the  olden  time.  Cousin 
Chileno  says  he  can't  afford  to  buy  our  big 
wagons,  but  he  can  go  into  the  woods,  cut  down 
a  big  tree,  saw  off  his  wheels,  and  make  a 


MY   CHILEAN   RAILROAD   TOUR.  251 

wagon  to  suit  himself,  and  lie  likes  it,  so  "  every 
man  to  his  liking,  as  said  the  old  woman  when 
she  kissed  the  calf." 

On  and  on  we  go  for  one  hundred  miles, 
and  put  up  for  the  night  in  Chilian.  The 
town,  with  its  22,000  people,  is  half  a  mile 
distant  from  the  railway  station,  and  here  are 
a  line  of  veritable  four-wheel  carnages  waiting 
for  passengers,  so  we  take  passage  in  one  of 
them.  They  will  charge  a  dollar  most  likely. 
We  drive  up  to  a  French  hotel. 

"  Driver,  what's  your  charge  ? " 

"  Ten  cents,  senor." 

Ah  !  this  is  the  old-time  country,  where  the 
people  earn  their  bread  by  the  sweat  of  their 
brows,  and  have  not  yet  seen  enough  of  this 
fast  age  in  which  we  live  to  learn  how  to 
charge  exorbitant  prices,  and  spend  more  than 
all  they  can  make  in  "  keeping  up  appearances." 
A  stroll  through  the  town  brings  us  to  the 
esplanade,  where  our  cousins  come  out  for  an 
airing  in  the  cool  of  the  evening.  It  is  a  large 
and  beautiful  plaza  with  a  fountain  in  the 
center,  laid  out  with  circular  avenues,  deep- 
ly shaded  with  a  variety  of  ornamental  and 
orange  trees,  and  beautified  by  floral  gardens. 
All  the  avenues  are  provided  with  plain,  but 


252  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

comfortable  seats  with  backs.  Here  they  are, 
our  strange  kindred,  some  in  fine  attire,  especi- 
ally the  ladies  with  their  long  trails.  Many  of 
the  men  and  women  are  dressed  in  European 
costume,  but  a  majority  of  them  in  the  plainest 
native  style.  There  a  group  of  farmers  from 
the  country,  and  there  a  group  of  mountaineers 
from  the  Andes.  We  fall  in  with  a  few  En^- 

o 

lish  railroad  men,  and  among  them  our  friend, 
Mr.  Mero,  the  Canadian  with  whom  we  trav- 
eled from  Panama  to  Callao.  He  recently  re- 
moved from  Concepcion  to  this  place,  being 
more  convenient  to  his  section  of  the  railroad 
as  an  engineer.  A  few  English  people  reside 
here,  but  not  enough  to  sustain  an  English 

/  O  O 

teacher  or  preacher. 

No  regular  train  to  Talca  to-morrow,  but 
my  time  is  too  precious  for  delay,  and  the 
paymaster,  my  young  friend  C.  H.  Laurence, 
has  given  me  permission  to  go  with  his  assist- 
ant, Seiior  Cheveiia,  who  goes  through  to 
Talca — one  hundred  miles — with  ensine  and 

O 

tender,  to  pay  monthly  dues  to  all  the  em- 
ployes on  that  section  of  the  road.  He  leaves 
at  5  A.M.,  so,  to  be  ready  for  that  hour  of  de- 
parture, I  settled  with  my  host — $1.50 — for 
supper  and  bed  before  retiring  for  the  night. 


MY   CHILEAN   RAILROAD  TOUR.  253 

Being  rather  anxious,  lest  I  should  not  come 
to  time  in  the  morning,  I  lighted  my  candle 
four  times  during  the  night.  We  get  to  the 
station  ten  minutes  before  time,  and  walk  and 
wait  for  forty  minutes.  Mr.  Mero  came  to  see 
me  off,  and  I  presented  him  with  a  copy  of 
"  Hymns,  new  and  old."  If  truly  saved,  he 
would  be  a  means  of  great  good  to  our  cousins. 
I  hope  yet  to  see  him  working  for  Jesus. 

Tuesday  morning,  the  5th,  we  roll  out  about 
three  miles  to  the  river  Nuble.  The  railway 
bridge  across  it,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
length,  was  swept  away  by  the  great  floods 
from,  the  Andes  last  June  ;  indeed  they  swept 
away  all  the  bridges  on  the  line  from  this 
place  to  Santiago.  The  Nuble  is  not  large 
enough  for  steamboat  navigation,  but  at  its 

O  O  ' 

flood,  too  large  for  the  safety  of  any  improve- 
ments within  the  breadth  of  its  sweep.  The 
new  bridge  is  nearly  finished.  We  walk 
across  it,  amid  a  crowd  of  workmen  hastening 
its  completion.  Here  we  go  again  on  a  much 
larger  tender,  run  before  the  engine,  so  that 
we  escape  the  sparks  and  smoke.  Our  driver 
is  a  Mr.  Allen  from  Paterson,  New  Jersey. 
He  has  his  wife  and  four  children  residing  at 
Linaris,  a  town  of  6,000  people,  on  the  line. 


254  CUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSIXS. 

He  was  taking  his  tea  as  we  came  up,  and 
kindly  gave  me  "  a  horn,"  literally  a  pint  of 
tea  in  a  cow's  horn.  He  kindly  offered  me 
bread,  but  having  a  supply,  I  simply  accepted 
the  horn  of  tea  with  thanks.  Now  the  real 
interest  of  the  day  begins,  the  payment  of  dues 
to  the  railway  employe's.  About  every  ten 
miles,  where  gangs  of  men  are  at  work,  the 
tender  stops.  The  men  come  running,  and 
stand  ready.  As  each  man's  name  is  called, 
he  responds  and  walks  up,  his  money  is  count- 
ed audibly  before  him,  and  put  into  his  hands. 

Common  laborers  receive  twelve  dollars  and 
sixty  cents  per  month.  A  grade  higher  receive 
fifteen  dollars.  Foremen  of  gangs,  nineteen ; 
firemen,  sixty ;  and  drivers,  one  hundred  and 
twenty. 

On  we  go  for  another  ten  or  twelve  miles, 
whistle,  and  stop.  Here  the  hardy  fellows 
come  and  hear  their  names  called,  and  receive 
"  every  man  his  penny." 

On  we  go  again.  Its  a  grand  holiday  excur- 
sion. I  have  seen  nothing  lately  so  interesting. 
The  scene  can't  be  transferred  to  paper.  There 
stands  close  by  the  paymaster  a  vulture-eyed- 
looking  fellow  watching  his  chance.  His  name 
is  not  called,  but  he  grabs  a  lot  of  the  money. 


MY  CHILEAN   RAILKOAD   TOUR. 


Just  as  it  passes  into  the  hands  of  the  hardy 
son  of  toil  who  earned  it,  that  fellow  lays  his 
hands  upon  it,  and  puts  it  into  his  own  pocket. 
There's  one  who  has  but  two  dollars  of  his  fif- 
teen left  in  his  hands.  There's  another  who 
stands  with  empty  hands,  and  gazes  at  the 
man  who  pocketed  his  pay.  His  eyes  say, 
"  It  is  too  bad,  but  what  can  I  do  ? " 

"Mr.  Allen,  who  is  that  man  who  is  gob- 
bling the  pay  of  these  poor  fellows  ?" 

"  He  is  the  boarding-house  master." 

"  Oh  yes,  I  see.  He's  the  man  who  gets  the 
workmen  round  the  '  board,'  ostensibly  to  eat, 
but  really  to  drink  up  their  wages  before  they 
are  earned." 

Our  seeming  thing  of  life  blows  its  great 
whistle  again,  and  we  are  off  for  another  stage. 
The  interest  keeps  up  all  the  way.  The  most 
popular  man  on  the  road  is  the  paymaster. 
They  all  seem  so  delighted  to  see  him.  We 
cross  some  of  the  rivers  on  a  temporary  side- 
track, to  be  used  till  the  bridges  shall  be  rebuilt ; 
others  which  are  larger  we  have  to  cross  in 
boats,  and  take  another  tender  and  engine  wait- 
ing for  us  on  the  farther  side.  We  reach  Talca 
about  three  P.M.,  and  put  up  at  Hotel  de  Colon. 

Talca  is  a  pretty  town,  near  to  a  river.     It 


206  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

contains  a  population  of  25,000.  There  are 
a  number  of  American  and  English  families 
residing  here.  I  called  on  Mr.  Holmau,  the 
miller,  an  American,  and  Mr.  Bennett,  the 
banker,  an  Englishman. 

Eev.  Mr.  Curtis,  of  the  American  Presby- 
terian Board,  is  stationed  here.  He  has  in 
the  cool  season  an  English  congregation  of 
about  forty  persons.  His  native  following,  Mr. 

B says,  "  numbers  six,  and  they  are  no 

credit  to  him."  It  is  a  hard  field,  but  as  needy 
as  it  is  hard. 

The  plaza  in  front  of  our  hotel  is  very  beau- 
tiful. In  the  center  is  a  broad,  nicely-rounded 
plateau,  covered  with  shrubbery  and  flowers, 
leaving  space  for  an  inner  circular  avenue  fur- 
nished'with  seats,  and  a  fountain  sending  up 
eight  streams  of  water — four  in  the  midst  of  a 
group  of  bronze  statuary,  aftd  four  more  on  the 
outer  edge  of  the  group,  two  from  sea-shells, 
and  two  from  pitchers,  each  held  in  the  hand 
of  the  statue  of  a  boy.  About  twenty  yards 
north  is  another  fountain  and  tank,  another 
south,  another  east,  equidistant  from  each 
other  and  from  the  central  group,  and  on  the 
west  is  an  elevated  stand  for  a  band  of  music. 
Some  of  the  tunes  played  in  the  evening  soothed 


MY   CHILEAN  RAILEOAD   TOUR.  257 

my  weary  spirit  greatly ;  one  tune  especially, 
soft  and  plaintive,  flowed  upon  me  as  I  reclined 
in  a  conscious  yet  dreamy  state,  and  it  seemed 
to  come  away  from  beyond  the  clouds;  I  seemed 
to  be  quite  on  the  verge  of  heaven. 

Wednesday  morning,  the  6th,  I  took  a  third- 
class  ticket  165  miles  to  Santiago.     The  hisvh- 

O  O 

caste  ideas  of  the  people  of  this  country  are 
such  that  a  gentleman  would  forfeit  his  social 
standing  in  polite  society  if  he  should  be  seen 
traveling  third-class.  For  the  sake  of  my  in- 
fluence for  good  among  such,  I  would,  as  far 
as  practicable,  shun  the  appearance  of  evil  in 
their  eyes ;  but  here  I  was  unknown,  short  of 
funds,  and  anxious  to  see  the  country  and  the 
country  people,  so  the  third-class  was  just  the 
thing  to  my  suiting.  The  cars  were  very  long, 
a  seat  two  feet  broad,  for  a  double  sitting  in 
the  center,  extending  from  one  end  of  the  car 
to  the  other,  and  a  seat  along  each  side.  In- 
stead of  windows  to  obstruct  the  view  and 
the  fresh  air,  both  sides  were  open,  with  a 
canvas  covering  to  draw  down  in  case  of  rain. 
When  not  too  crowded,  I  had  a  good  prome- 
nade of  about  sixty  feet.  A  few  miles  out 
from  Talca  we  get  out  and  descend  the  steep 
bluffs  of  the  river  Claro,  and  cross  on  a  foot- 


258  OUK  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

bridge  and  ascend  the  steeps  on  the  northern 
shore.  Four  arches  of  the  wrecked  bridge  are 
still  standing,  but  the  remains  of  two  or  three 
central  arches  and  their  pillars  lie  in  great 
blocks  of  ruined  masonry  down  the  stream. 
The  bridge  was  at  least  ninety  feet  high.  It 
will  perhaps  cost  a  million  dollars  to  repair  it. 
The  work  is  in  progress. 

Here  we  are  on  another  train,  steaming  away 
to  the  north.  Such  a  crowd  of  our  country 
cousins!  It  is  surpassed  only  by  a  Pacific 
steamship  load  of  the  same  sort.  Every  one 
seems  to  have  all  his  personal  property  about 
him — bags,  boxes,  baskets  and  bundles  of  every 
shape;  crowds  of  men,  women  and  children, 
apparently  emigrating,  with  all  their  effects,  to 
climes  remote.  At  every  station,  however,  we 
part  with  many  of  them,  and  get  their  places 
filled  up  at  once  with  new-comers.  There 
comes  a  man  with  a  basket  of  little  chickens. 
He  sits  in  a  corner,  and  his  chirpers  keep 
up  a  perpetual  complaint  of  hard  times. 

There  conies  the  shoe  and  boot  maker  with 
a  dozen  pairs  of  his  own  make,  with  heels 
about  two  inches  high.  The  people  here  seem 
to  have  a  great  ambition  to  rise  in  the  world, 
and  the  bootmaker  gives  them  an  extra  lift. 


MY   CHILEAN   RAILROAD   TOUR.  259 

On  we  go  from  town  to  town.  Yesterday 
we  passed  San  Carlos,  5,000  population;  Par- 
ral,  5,000  ;  Lineris,  6,000  ;  Talca,  25,000.  To- 
day we  pass  Curilo,  6,000;  San  Fernando, 
6,000 ;  Kaneaugna,  4,000 ;  San  Barmida,  5,000 ; 
and  heave  to  in  Santiago,  which  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  200,000. 

My  friend  John  Slater  says,  "With  some 
one  speaking  the  Spanish  language  to  go  with 
you,  and  introduce  you  to  the  people,  you 
could  found  a  self-supporting  English  school 
in  every  one  of  those  towns."  I  should  not  be 
surprised  if  the  Lord  shall  give  me  an  order  to 
do  that  thing  one  of  these  days. 

A  jolly  set  of  people,  these  country  cousins 
of  ours,  all  in  high  glee,  eating  watermelons, 
apples,  peaches,  grapes,  cakes  and  candies. 
We  live  well  here  at  a  very  small  cost. 

Here  they  come  again,  crowding  in,  old  men 
and  maidens.  "  Give  place  to  that  dear  woman 
with  her  child."  She  gets  a  good  seat  near  the 
preacher.  As  we  rush  on  her  shawl  parts,  and 
the  baby —  No,  it  is  a  goose,  with  her  long  neck 
stretching  out  to  see  what  it  is  all  about. 

There  is  a  woman  in  the  corner  with  great 
bundles  of  stuff,  a  little  two-year-old  girl,  and 
a  parrot.  She  appears  to  have  a  goose  or  a 


260  OUR   SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

gobbler  covered  up  under  her  shawl.  Hours 
elapse,  and  not  a  quack  from  beneath  the  cov- 
ering. Then,  instead  of  another  goose,  a  cun- 
ning-looking little  cousin  looks  out  on  the 
scene  with  perfect  composure.  The  dear  little 
thing  never  cried  a  bit  all  the  hot,  weary  way. 

There  comes  a  blooming  "  gushing  girl  from 
the  country."  She  is  dressed  in  a  suit  of 
nankeen,  and  wears  a  broad-brim  straw  hat. 
She  gets  her  seat,  and  has  a  hearty  cry  to  her- 
self. Dear  young  cousin,  she  is  thinking  of  the 
one  she  left  behind  her — perhaps  her  moth- 
er. Her  tears,  like  the  early  dew,  soon  pass 
away,  and  now  she  is  as  jolly  as  her  neighbors. 

The  great  valley  narrows ;  the  snow  peaks 
of  the  Andes  stand  out  to  view  in  solemn 
grandeur. 

At  sunset  we  fetch  up  in  the  de"pot  of 
the  capital  of  the  countiy.  I  pay  two  and  a 
half  cents  in  solid  cash,  and  get  an  upper  seat 
on  a  two-story  street-car,  where  I  can  see  all 
that  comes  within  the  rano;e  of  vision  as  we 

O 

drive  a  couple  of  miles  through  the  city.  We 
alight  on  the  grand  plaza,  and  put  up  at  the 
"  Hotel  Oddo." 

At  the  dinner-table  Mr.  Parkman,  the  asrent 

/  O 

of  the  Philadelphia  hardware  merchant,  with 


MY  CHILEAN  RAILROAD  TOUR. 


whom  I  traveled  from  Callao  to  Mollendo,  sat 
down  beside  me.  I  was  glad  to  see  liim  again 
and  liear  that  the  merchants  of  Santiago  had 
patronized  him  liberally,  and  had  the  night  be- 
fore given  him  a  grand  entertainment,  largely 
attended  by  the  merchants  and  other  most 
respectable  men  of  the  city,  many  of  whom, 
in  their  speeches  on  the  occasion,  expressed  a 
great  desire  for  enlarged  fraternal  and  com- 
mercial intercourse  with  the  "Great  Repub- 
lic." 

After  dinner  I  mounted  the  upper  story  of 
a  street-car,  and  went  for  a  call  on  Hon. 
Thomas  A.  Osborn,  American  Minister  to 
Chile,  who  received  me  cordially.  He  was 
formerly  Governor  of  the  State  of  Kansas. 
He  combines  good  abilities  as  a  statesman 
with  the  modest,  genial  qualities  of  a  gentle- 
man and  friend.  He  was  well  acquainted 
with  Rev.  D.  P.  Mitchell,  of  the  South  Kan- 
sas Conference,  and  other  ministers  who  were 
particular  friends  of  mine ;  so  I  spent  a  very 
pleasant  hour  with  him. 

Thursday,  7th,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Osborn, 
I  went  to-day  to  call  on  His  Excellency  Senor 
Annibal  Pinto,  the  President  of  the  Republic, 
and  also  on  Senor  Miguel  Louis  Amunategui, 


262  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSIXS. 

Minister  of  Justice  and  of  Public  Instruction. 
Being  in  advance  of  the  time  for  our  reception, 
we  visited  several  departments  of  State,  and 
were  entertained  by  their  heads,  who  kindly 
showed  us  objects  of  interest  in  the  "  great 
house."  We  were  then  conducted  to  the  de- 
partment of  the  Minister  of  Justice  and  of 
Public  Instruction,  and  introduced  to  Seiior 
Amunategui.  He  is  about  five  feet  ten,  lean 
and  slender,  with  a  broad,  high  forehead.  His 
appearance  and  address  indicate  a  man  of  the 
type  of  our  Secretaiy  Evarts.  Seiior  Amun- 
ategui is  believed  to  be  the  coming  man  for  the 
Presidency  of  the  Republic  at  the  next  election. 
I  told  him  of  my  self-supporting  economical 
arrangements  for  founding  schools  in  Con- 
cepcion,  Talcahuana,  and  along  the  coast  of 
Chile,  north,  and  in  Peru.  He  said  he  was 
very  glad  indeed  to  hear  of  my  purpose,  and 
the  success  of  preparation  for  its  accomplish- 
ment, and  said  he  would  be  most  happy  to  ren- 
der every  assistance  we  might  require,  or  in  his 
power  to  give.  A  considerable  conversation 
ensued  on  the  subject  of  education  in  North 
America  and  in  Chile. 

He  asked  me  if  my  wife  was  engaged  in 
educational  work,  adding,  "If  so,  we  should 


MY  CHILEAN  EAILEOAD  TOTTE.  263 

like  to  have  her  take  charge  of  a  ladies'  institu- 
tion in  this  city." 

I  replied  that  my  wife  was  fully  occupied 
with  her  boys,  and  with  her  own  household 
duties,  but  if  I  could  be  of  any  service  to  him 
in  selecting  and  recommending  for  his  school 
competent  professors  from  the  United  States, 
it  would  be  my  pleasure  to  do  so.  He  ex- 
pressed thanks,  and  said  he  would  consider  the 
suggestion,  and  if  he  should  find  it  practicable, 
he  would  communicate  with  me  through  Mr. 
Osborn. 

"We  were  next  conducted  to  the  department 
of  the  chief,  and  introduced  to  His  Excellency 
Annibal  Pinto.  He  is  a  man  of  medium  size, 
not  corpulent,  but  in  good  condition,  with 
smooth  round  features,  keen  black  eyes,  with 
an  appearance  of  great  amiability  and  kindliness 
of  heart,  and  a  model  of  simplicity.  He  was 
seated  at  his  desk,  examining  some  documents 
as  we  entered,  but  arose  and  shook  hands  with 
us  very  cordially. 

Mr.  Osborn  told  him  about  me,  and  my 
mission  to  his  country,  and  that  I  had  a  letter 
of  commendation  from  President  Hayes.  His 
expressions  of  pleasure,  congratulation,  and 
assurance  of  support  in  regard  to  the  English 


264  DUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN   COUSINS. 

schools  I  was  preparing  to  found  on  the  coast 
were  as  emphatic  as  those  of  the  Minister  of 
Public  Instruction. 

He  inquired  particularly  about  Sr.  Gmo. 
Laurence,  of  Concepcion,  and  other  patrons  of 
my  work  there.  That  is  the  city  to  which  the 
president  belongs,  and  his  cousin,  Major  Pinto,  is 
the  treasurer  of  my  school  fund  in  Concepcion. 
After  this  conversation,  His  Excellency  asked 
to  see  my  letter  from  President  Hayes,  and  read 
it  over  with  close  attention,  evidently  not  .on 
tny  account,  but  because  it  was  from  the  hand 
of  the  "  President  of  the  Great  Republic."  AYe 
did  not  ask  nor  desire  any  government  funds 
for  our  school  work,  but  thought  it  well  to 
secure  for  it  the  friendship  and  moral  support 
of  those  distinguished  men ;  they  both  belong 
to  the  "  Liberal  party,"  and  meant  all  that  they 
said  about  our  schools,  in  which  religious  creeds 
would  "  not  be  interfered  with,  nor  taught." 

Both  of  the  two  great  political  parties  of  the 
country  are  nominally  Roman  Catholics,  but  the 
Liberals  are  working  for  a  divorce  of  Church  and 
State  and  release  from  the  controlling  power 
of  the  priesthood,  especially  in  the  departments 
of  education,  and  of  the  government,  and  to  cur- 
tail their  monopoly  of  so  much  of  the  real  estate 


MY   CHILEAN   EAILEOAD   TOTJE.  265 

and  moneyed  resources  of  the  country.  The 
Liberals  are  growing  into  power  more  and 
more,  and  as  they  drift  from  Rome  it  is  a 
matter  of  the  greatest  moment  to  them  and  the 
peoples  of  their  countiy  that  the  clear  light  of 
a  pure  Gospel  shall  shine  upon  them,  and  en- 
able them  to  keep  off  the  fatal  reefs  and  rocks 
of  infidelity  and  atheism.  Voltaire's  works 
have  recently  been  printed  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage, and  are,  I  am  told,  extensively  read  by 
the  people  of  Chile.  Satan's  missionaries  are 
not  trammeled  by  any  conventional  rules,  nor 
tied  down  by  the  red  tape  of  perfunctory  au- 
thority, but  proceed  in  their  diabolical  work 
on  eveiy  breeze  and  by  every  current  of  com- 
merce to  the  ends  of  the  earth.  The  organiza- 
tion of  the  Church  of  Christ,  and  of  its  benevo- 
lent societies,  and  its  administration  of  law  and 
discipline,  and  its  various  orders  of  ministers 
are  all  of  Divine  appointment,  to  facilitate,  but 
in  no  way  to  retard,  the  spread  of  the  glorious 
Gospel  of  Jesus  "  to  the  uttermost  parts  of  the 
earth."  In  utilizing  indigenous  resources  for 
the  advancement  of  the  kingdom  of  Jesus 
Christ,  we  may  learn  useful  lessons  from  "  the 
children  of  this  world,  who  are  in  their  genera- 
tion wiser  than  the  children  of  light." 


266  OUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

A  letter  of  commendation  from  the  President 
of  the  United  States  was  of  value  to  me  as  a 
stranger  in  a  strange  country.  It  came  to  me 
in  an  emergency  when  I  needed  a  friend,  just 
the  time  I  always  get  special  help  from  God, 
often  from  an  unanticipated  source.  I  never 
thought  of  applying  to  the  President  of  the 
United  States  for  a  letter.  I  applied  to  our 
Church  authorities  on  behalf  of  South  America, 
and  tendered  my  services  without  any  cost  to 
the  Church ;  but  they  seemed  to  think  that  the 
time  had  not  come,  and  I  had  to  proceed  wholly 
on  my  own  responsibility,  as  I  had  done  in 
India,  not  breaking  any  law  of  the  Church,  but 
proceeding  so  far  beyond  organized  lines  or 
established  precedent  as  to  be  considered  "  out 
of  order."  Having  no  authority  from  Church 
or  State  to  proceed  on  a  mission  to  South 
America,  this  unofficial  letter  of  friendship 
came  to  me  in  this  wise : 

My  old  friend,  Chauncey  Shaffer,  Esq.  (of 
New  York),  was  pleading  a  case  before  the 
United  States  Supreme  Court,  in  Washington, 
and  meeting  with  President  Hayes,  told  him 
of  my  contemplated  visit  to  South  America 
to  open  fields  for  educational  and  evangelical 
work.  The  President  replied  that  he  had  been 


MY   CHILEAN   RAILROAD   TOUR.  267 

"  well  acquainted  with  Mr.  Taylor's  work  for 
many  years  past,"  and  gave  Bro.  Shaffer  the 
letter  commending  me  and  my  work  in  South 
America. 

On  Friday,  the  8th  of  April,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Parkman,  I  came  first-class  across  the 
mountains  and  down  the  valleys,  over  one 
hundred  miles,  to  Valparaiso,  where  an  un- 
doubted welcome  awaited  me  at  the  home  of 
my  dear  friends,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  TrumbulL 


XIX. 

COISTVEESATIO^   WITH  A   KOMAN   CATHOLIC. 

TRAVELING  in  the  rail-cars  in  India,  on  one 
occasion,  I  spoke  to  a  gentleman  seated  beside 
me,  and  soon  discovered  that  he  was  a  Roman 
Catholic.  I  said  to  him,  "As  I  am  an  older 
man  than  you  are,  and  have  seen  much  of  the 
world,  there  may  be  portions  of  my  experience 
that  would  be  interesting,  and  perhaps  prof- 
itable to  you.  If  it  is  your  pleasure  to  hear 
me  talk,  I  will  not  require  a  reply  nor  ask  you 
any  questions." 

"  Very  good,  sir ;  I  will  listen  with  pleasure." 
"  When  a  boy,  I  learned  to  earn  my  living  on 
my  father's  farm,  and  had  fair  educational  ad- 
vantages and  good  religious  training.  As  I 
grew  to  maturity  I  became  greatly  impressed 
by  facts  like  these :  the  Maker  and  Preserver  of 
this  world  is  a  great  king.  I  know  not  the  ex- 
tent of  His  kingdom,  but  this  world  is  a  part 

268 


CONVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHOLIC.      269 

of  it,  and  He  daily  manifests  the  great  interest 
He  feels  in  it — He  cares  for  oxen,  feeds  the 
sparrows,  and  the  fish  of  the  sea,  from  the 
minnow  to  the  leviathan,  get  their  food  from 
His  bountiful  storehouse :  '  He  openeth  His 
hand  and  satisfieth  the  desire  of  every  living 
thing,  as  a  farmer  gives  food  to  his  fowls.'  If 
He  takes  such  interest  in  His  live  stock,  what 
must  be  His  love  for  His  subjects  and  children  ! 

"  In  analyzing  my  own  conscious  being,  I  ob- 
served, 1st.  That  I  had  an  animal  nature  with  its 
appetites  adapted  to  my  material  relations  to 
this  world. 

"  2d.  A  soul  nature  with  its  instincts  and 
appetences  adapted  to  the  body,  and  its  pur- 
poses and  relationships  to  the  present  life. 

"3d.  A  higher  spirit  nature  with  a  capacity, 
powers,  and  aspirations  adapted  to  my  civil  re- 
lations to  God  as  my  king,  and  filial  relations 
to  God  as  my  Father.  As  He  has  provided  so 
munificently  for  the  wants  of  our  bodies,  surely 
He  would  not  fail  to  provide  for  the  wants  of 
our  higher  spirit  nature.  First,  as  a  foundation 
of  all  right  loyalty  to  my  king,  and  fair-dealing 
with  my  fellow-subjects,  He  would  certainly 
give  us  plain  laws  defining  the  relations  we 
sustain  to  God,  and  to  each  other,  and  the 


270  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

duties  growing  out  of  them.  I  liad  some 
skeptical  thoughts  discrediting  the  authority 
of  the  Bible  as  God's  book  for  man's  instruc- 
tion in  these  things ;  but  it  seemed  to  me  as  in- 
credible that  God  would  give  us  eyes  and  give 
no  light  adapted  to  their  purpose,  as  that  He 
would  give  us  a  conscience,  and  furnish  no  au- 
thoritative reliable  standard  of  right  for  its  guid- 
ance. However  emphatically  the  heavens  may 
declare  the  glory  of  God,  and  the  book  of  nature 
all  around  us  show  forth  His  marvelous  works, 
they  do  not  give  us  the  moral  laws  essential  to 
the  instruction  of  the  human  conscience.  The 
demand  is  imperative,  and  nothing  in  the  book 
of  nature  is  taught  more  manifestly  than  God's 
adequate  provision,  and  marvelous  adaptation 
of  supply  to  demand — light  for  the  eye,  air  for 
the  lungs,  the  modulations  of  sound  for  the  ear, 
water  for  thirst,  food  for  hunger,  and  so  on. 
In  correspondence  with  all  this  there  must  be 
a  supply  equally  adequate  and  available  for 
our  higher  spirit  nature.  That  nature  is  in- 
visible, God  is  invisible,  His  spiritual  supplies 
must  be  invisible,  but  we  require  a  visible  book 
of  instructions — a  book  containing  a  revelation 
of  God  to  man,  and  a  revelation  of  man  to  man, 
intelligibly  manifesting  the  information  con- 


CONVEKSATION  WITH  A  EOMAN  CATHOLIC.      271 

cerning  God  and  man  essential  to  good  citizen- 
snip  as  His  subjects,  and  to  the  realization  of 
His  higher  purposes  in  regard  to  us. 

"  I  found  that  the  Bible  was  the  only  book 
that  could  set  up  any  tenable  claim  to  be  of 
Divine  authority.  It  has  its  vulnerable  points, 
but  that  is  what  we  might  expect  from  the  fact 
that  human  agency  has  been  employed  in  its 
primal  revelation  and  record,  and  its  trans- 
mission from  first  to  last.  Hence  while  its 
essential  truth  is  retained  in  all  its  entirety 
and  harmony,  its  drapery,  in  passing  through 
the  ages,  has  been  somewhat  soiled  and  marred, 
but  for  practical  purposes  it  is  clearly  intel- 
ligible, and  immutably  reliable,  as  God's  au- 
thoritative book  for  man's  instruction. 

"  I  got  the  idea  early  in  life  that  it  is  not  the 
medical  book  that  cures  the  patient,  but  the 
medicine ;  not  the  documentary  credentials,  but 
the  doctor — in  short,  that  the  Bible,  in  its  rela- 
tion to  God  and  man,  and  the  whole  breadth 
of  its  teachings,  bears  a  similar  relation  to  the 
subjects  of  which  it  treats,  to  that  of  any  other 
book.  A  book  on  astronomy,  for  example,  does 
not  contain  beneath  its  lids  the  planetary  sys- 
tem. I  hence  perceived  that  possibly  the  essen- 
tial truth  of  the  Bible  was  demonstrable  consci- 


272  CUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

ously  in  human  experience  as  really  as  books  on 
mechanics  and  navigation.  All  such  books  are 
studied,  not  for  speculative,  but  for  practical 
purposes.  There  may  be  a  hundred  diagnostic 
delineations  of  a  hundred  diseases  in  the  medi- 
cal book  that  a  sick  man  cannot  understand. 
His  only  concern  is  to  find  his  own  case  de- 
scribed, and  to  verify  the  truth  of  the  book  by 
a  successful  application  of  the  prescribed  rem- 
edy. So  the  mariner  studies,  and  applies  his 
books  on  navigation ;  so  the  mechanic  verifies 
daily  the  truth  contained  in  his  books  along 
the  line  of  demonstration. 

"  Thus  in  the  practical  study  of  the  Bible  I 
became  more  and  more  impressed  with  the  fact 
that  God  is  a  sovereign,  and  that  I  am  a  re- 
sponsible subject  of  His  realm,  and  as  such, 
bound  to  study  His  laws.  His  synoptical  ex- 
hibit of  the  moral  law — the  ten  commandments 
impressed  me  much.  Addressing  the  human 
race  individually,  He  says  to  me, 

" '  I  am  the  Lord,  thy  God.'  My  sovereign, 
my  Father,  the  only  object  worthy  of  my 
supreme  confidence,  loyalty,  and  love,  and  the 
only  supply  for  the  demands  of  the  capacity 
and  powers  with  which  He  has  endowed  me, 
and  which  are  essential  to  my  eternal  relations 


CONVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHOLIC.      273 

to  Himself.  Hence,  His  second  command, 
'Thou  slialt  have  no  other  gods  before  me.' 
Could  He  consent  to  such  seditious  dishonor  to 
His  government,  and  such  debasement  and  ruin 
to  me  as  a  subject  ?  Hence,  in  the  third  com- 
mandment He  guards  the  gates  against  rebellion 
by  a  warning  not  to  take  His  name  in  vain,  or 
injure  His  reputation  in  the  minds  of  others,  or 
lessen  the  weight  of  its  influence  in  my  own. 

"As  he  had  given  me  the  mental  appetence 
for  property,  had  given  me  the  right  to  accu- 
mulate it,  and  the  right  to  have  and  to  hold  it, 
with  a  profusion  of  property  resources  worthy 
of  Himself,  He  kindly,  in  ihefowth  command- 
ment, adjusts  the  division  of  time  between  the 
demands  for  toil  and  the  recuperative  rest  es- 
sential to  the  life  and  continued  working  effect- 
iveness of  the  toiler.  He  gave  us  six  days  out 
of  seven  for  all  the  purposes  of  secular  work, 
and  in  mercy  to  man  and  all  beasts  of  burden, 
retained  in  His  own  right  one-seventh  of  time, 
and  set  it  sacredly  apart  as  a  day  of  rest. 
The  Sabbath  is  doubly  freighted  with  blessing 
to  man ;  to  secure  more  certainly  the  needed 
rest  of  his  active  mental  powers  from  the  care 
of  secular  associations,  and  to  have  his  spirit 
specially  refreshed  by  undisturbed  communion 


274  OPE  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

with  his  Creator,  He  has  appointed  the  rest 
day  of  each  week  as  a  holy  day — a  levee  day 
of  the  king,  when  He  is  delighted  to  see  us  with 
clean  hands  and  clean  clothes,  with  our  wives, 
children  and  friends,  come  into  His  courts,  and, 
in  blessed  intercourse  with  Him  and  each  other, 
receive  His  smile  and  special  benediction. 

"  To  encourage  our  obedience  to  his  Sabbatic 
law,  He  assures  us  that  He  Himself,  after  the 
work  of  six  days,  '  rested  the  seventh ; '  so  that 
we  should  not  think  it  a  matter  of  small  im- 
port, but  a  physical  necessity  for  man  and 
beast,  and  spiritually  the  highway  to  honor 
and  bliss  traveled  by  the  king. 

"  The  fifth  commandment  is  to  protect  the 
honor  of  father  and  mother,  addressed  to  eveiy 
child — 'Honor  thy  father  and  mother,'  with 
the  promise  of  length  of  days,  and  a  land  of 
plenty,  to  make  long  life  a  blessing  to  us. 

"The  sixth  commandment  is  to  protect  life 
—'Thou  shalt  not  kill.' 

"  The  seventh  is  to  protect  an  institution  of 
pristine  Eden,  under  the  divine  sanctions  of 
which  the  human  race  was  to  be  propagated, 
and  every  resource  belonging  to  it  conserved 
for  its  legitimate  purpose — '  Thou  shalt  not 
commit  adultery.' 


CONVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHOLIC.      275 

• 

"  Tlie  eighth,  is  to  protect  our  property  rights. 
Having  given  us  property  rights  and  resources, 
and  six  working  days  per  week  in  which  to 
accumulate  property,  how  Godlike  and  kind 
to  take  an  inventory  of  our  effects,  and  set 
upon  them  the  broad  seal  of  His  protective 
law,  backed  by  penal  sanctions  which  ought  to 
make  the  bones  of  every  thief  and  defrauder 
rattle  in  their  sockets ! 

"  The  ninth  commandment  is  to  protect  our 
reputation,  the  most  valuable  possession  per- 
taining to  this  life  that  we  can  acquire — '  Thou 
shalt  not  bear  false  witness  against  thy  neigh- 
bor.' 

"  The  five  commands  of  the  second  table  of 
the  law  just  named  notes  each  the  highest 
offense  against  those  varied  God-given  rights 
of  man. 

"  The  tenth  commandment  strikes  at  the  low- 
est. It  is  designed,  on  the  principle  that  *  an 
ounce  of  prevention  is  better  than  a  pound  of 
cure,'  to  nip  the  first  bud  of  lust  in  the  soul 
that  would  lead  to  a  violation  of  any  of  them. 

"  These  laws  are  equitable,  reasonable,  right, 
essential.  They  pertain  to  eternal  relationships 
between  God  and  man,  and  between  man 
and  man,  and  hence,  of  perpetual  obligation 


276  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

through  all  time  and  through,  all  eternity. 
They  breathe  naught  but  love  and  good- will 
to  man,  and  all  men  should  honor  God  and 
keep  His  commandments.  I  always  admitted 
the  obligation,  but  unhappily  when  about  five 
years  old  I  commenced  breaking  the  command- 
ments of  God,  and  went  on  for  fifteen  years  in 
wicked  rebellion.  I  often  tried  to  do  better, 
but  encountered  two  difficulties :  First,  as  a 
rebel,  I  had  forfeited  all  the  rights  of  citizen- 
ship, and  had  become  obnoxious  to  penalty. 
The  law  was  all  right,  but  I  was  all  wrong. 
Everything  depends  on  which  side  of  the  law 
we  are  on,  the  protective  side  of  loyal  obedi- 
ence, or  the  penal  side  of  disobedience.  I 
found  that  the  law  can  do  nothing  for  the  law- 
breaker but  execute  its  penalties  upon  him  in 
the  interest  of  society.  It  was  of  no  use  to 
hope  in  God's  mercy,  for  He  is  not  simply  a 
Father,  but  a  king,  and  I  was  a  rebel,  and  He 
is  bound  to  execute  penalty,  maintain  law, 
and  protect  society.  So  all  my  attempts  at 
obedience  were  like  a  felon  under  sentence  to 
be  hung,  trying  to  repair  his  felonious  breach 
upon  society  till  the  day  of  his  execution,  and 
then  the  sheriff  takes  him  out  and  hangs  him. 
Another  difficulty  in  niy  case  was  that  my 


CONVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHOLIC.      277 

nature  was  so  corrupt,  I  could  not  reform  my- 
self. My  attempts  were  as  futile  as  those  of 
an  Ethiopian  to  wash  himself  white.  So  I 
was  in  a  sad  state.  I  saw  clearly  that  there 
was  no  power  in  any  human  resource  to  meet 
my  case.  Then  on  the  great  divine  principle 
of  demand  and  supply,  I  searched  the  Bible 
more  carefully  to  see  if  God  had  revealed  a 
provision  by  which  He,  as  a  righteous  judge, 
could  acquit  a  guilty  man,  and  whether  he  had 
a  provision  by  which  a  nature  so  perverted 
and  so  polluted  could  be  purged  and  purified, 
and  brought  back  to  filial  union  with  Himself. 
Seeking  light  with  a  sincere  purpose  to  walk 
in  it,  the  mysteriously  wonderful,  but  glori- 
ous provision  of  salvation  for  sinners,  through 
the  incarnation  and  blood-shedding  of  Jesus 
Christ,  opened  up  to  my  mind  as  the  only 
provision  that  could  by  any  possibility  meet  the 
case.  As  a  basis  of  faith  I  read  the  prophetic 
record  of  God  concerning  His  Son.  I  found 
that  hundreds  of  years  before  He  was  manifested 
in  the  flesh,  the  holy  men  of  old  who  had  been 
saved  by  Him,  and  inspired  by  His  Holy  Spirit, 
had  foretold  His  incarnation,  and  described 
His  humiliation  most  minutely,  so  that  there 
should  be  no  mistake  in  identifying  the  long- 


278  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSIXS. 

expected  Saviour  of  sinners.  They  wrote  out 
plainly  where  He  should  appear  in  the  world 
as  a  babe,  and  develop  manhood  among  men, 
that  he  might  on  the  plane  of  human  experi- 
ences and  within  the  radius  of  human  percep- 
tions manifest  God  to  the  world — the  mind  of 
God,  the  feelings,  the  love,  the  sympathy  of 
God  to  men ;  also  the  principles  of  God's  im- 
mutable truth  and  justice  as  applied  to  men  in 
His  providential  government,  and  God's  methods 
of  dealing  with  all  classes  of  men,  and  espe- 
cially His  method  of  saving  sinners  from  their 
sins,  which  was  the  great  object  of  His  mission 
into  the  world.  So  I  found  those  old  prophets 
had  foretold  all  the  great  events  of  His  life, 
and  of  His  death,  and  of  His  resurrection  from 
the  dead ;  and  of  His  mediatorial  mission  in 
heaven  and  His  soul-saving  mission  on  earth,  to 
be  maintained  till  the  day  of  final  judgment.  I 
then  read  carefully  the  historic  record  of  God 
concerning  His  Son,  and  found  an  exact  cor- 
respondence between  the  prophecies  and  the 
facts  as  they  transpired  in  the  Person  and  sur- 
roundings of  Jesus  of  Nazareth.  It  was  a 
satisfaction  to  find  that  the  documentary  cre- 
dentials of  this  .great  Redeemer  of  mankind 
were  so  clear  and  credible,  but  to  me  in  my 


COISTVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHOLIC.      279 

carnal  darkness,  they  seemed  like  the  creden- 
tials of  an  old  medical  doctor  long  since  de- 
ceased. The  papers  are  all  right,  but  where  is 
the  man  to  answer  to  them.  ?  Thus  I  groped 
in  the  dark  for  a  long  time,  but  finally  I  be- 
came associated  with  intelligent  godly  men 
and  women  whose  testimony  would  stand  in 
any  court  in  the  nation,  who  solemnly  testified 
that  they  knew  Jesus  Christ;  that  though 
'  He  was  dead,  He  is  alive  again  for  ever- 
more ; '  that  He  is  a  real  Person,  and  as  acces- 
sible now  as  when  manifest  in  the  flesh,  though 
invisible  like  the  air  we  breathe,  yet  none  the 
less  real,  and  as  truly  the  Saviour  of  sinners 
now  as  He  was  eighteen  hundred  years  ago : 
that  all  we  read  of  His  saving  acts  are  re- 
corded teaching  facts,  which  are  an  index  to 
His  immutable  character,  and  to  the  methods 
of  His  saving  work  among  men  to  the  end  of 
the  world.  Thus,  by  the  word  of  God  which 
I  had  read,  and  by  the  testimony  for  Jesus 
which  I  heard  from  these  witnesses,  I  ob- 
tained a  reliable  basis  of  faith  in  the  Lord  Jesus 
as  the  Saviour  of  sinners ;  and  on  these  evi- 
dences, I  consented  to  take  His  easy  yoke,  and 
received  Him  as  my  Saviour,  and  trusted  Him 
to  do  for  me  all  that  was  in  His  heart  to 


280  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

do  for  ine.  It  was  on  the  28th  of  August, 
1841,  that  I  fully  surrendered  myself  to  God, 
and  accepted  Christ. 

"  The  great  Redeemer  took  my  case  in  hand 
at  once,  and  through  His  merits  and  mediation 
I  was  acquitted  from  the  penalties  of  the  laws 
I  had  broken,  pardoned  for  all  my  sins,  notified 
of  the  great  transaction  by  God's  Spirit  in  my 
heart,  and  had  my  vile  nature  changed — the 
lusts  of  the  flesh  purged  out,  and  the  fruits  of 
the  Spirit  put  in.  I  was  so  filled  with  love  to 
God,  and  sympathy  for  man,  that  I  began  the 
next  day  to  tell  all  whom  I  met  about  the 
Saviour  whom  I  had  found.  From  that  time 
to  the  present  I  have  been  traversing  con- 
tinents, crossing  oceans,  and  witnessing  to  a 
personal  verification  of  the  truth  of  the  Bible 
record  concerning  Jesus  Christ,  to  a  personal 
demonstration  of  the  fact  that  He  is  alive,  and 
the  Saviour  of  sinners,  and  that  He  saved  me 
from  sin,  and,  in  spite  of  all  temptations  and 
trials,  preserves  me  from  sinning.  Thus  I 
have  been  all  these  years,  cultivating  a  per- 
sonal acquaintance  with  Jesus,  so  that  I  know 
Him  better  than  I  know  any  man  in  the  world, 
and  have  seen  many  thousands  of  sinners  in 
all  the  zones  of  this  globe,  test  and  verify 


CONVERSATION  WITH  A  ROMAN  CATHOLIC.      281 

these  truths  and  facts,  in  like  manner.  He  is 
no  respecter  of  persons,  hence  what  He  has 
done  for  nie  He  is  anxious  to  do  for  everybody, 
and  for  you,  my  dear  brother." 

At  that  point  the  train  stopped  at  the 
station  at  which  I  had  to  leave  it.  As  I  rose 
to  start,  my  Roman  Catholic  friend  grasped 
my  hand  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  and  said :  "  It 
is  a  most  fortunate  circumstance  that  I  came 
011  this  train  and  fell  in  with  a  man  like  you. 
I  never  heard  such  good  news  before.  I  am 
sure  I  shall  never  forget  your  words,  and  I  am 
greatly  obliged  by  your  kindness  in  telling  me 
these  things."  My  heart  was  full  of  love  and 
sympathy  for  him.  I  learned  afterward  that 
he  received  Jesus  and  spoke  of  this  conver- 
sation, and  testified  to  a  personal  experience 
of  salvation  in  Jesus. 


XX. 

POOR   OLD    SAN   SEBASTIAN. 

THE  recent  tribulations  of  the  patron  saint 
of  Yumbel  in  South  Chile,  and  of  his  friends, 
are  graphically  set  forth  in  the  Chilean  daily 
papers,  as  follows : 

The  Record  says :  "  A  letter  appears  in  the 
1  Hevista  del  Sur"1  of  Concepcion,  which  may 
interest  some  of  our  readers  who  are  unfamiliar 
with  the  extent  to  which  the  religious  sim- 
plicity of  the  Chilean  people  is  carried,  and  the 
way  in  which  their  credulity  is  exercised.  The 
letter  refers  to  the  robbery  of  the  image  of  San 
Sebastian  from  the  church  of  Yumbel. 

"You  are  aware  that  St.  Sebastian  is  the 
patron  saint  of  this  town,  and  by  his  numerous 
miracles,  which  amount  to  not  less  than  fifteen 
or  twenty  thousand  a  year,  has  achieved  a  fame 
rivaling  that  of  Our  Lady  of  Andacollo. 

"Every  year,  on  the  20th  of  January,  a  grand 
mass  is  sung,  a  sermon  preached,  and  proces- 
sions formed  in  his  honor. 

282 


POOK   OLD   SAN   SEBASTIAN.  283 

"  On  the  19th,  20th,  and  21st  of  January  the 
people  repay  the  saint  for  his  miracles — pay- 
ments which  have  reached  the  enormous  sum 
of  $11,000,  but  have  this  year  only  amounted 
to  $5,600,  doubtless  owing  to  the  general 
scarcity. 

"The  usual  manner  of  making  offerings  to 
the  image  of  St.  Sebastian,  is  for  the  giver  to 
advance  on  his  knees  for  a  distance  of  two  or 
three  cuadras,  the  blood  streaming  forth  and 
the  pilgrim  fainting  at  every  step. 

"  Somebody  formed  the  idea  of  stealing  him, 
and  yesterday  a  door  of  the  church  was  found 
open.  On  the  sacristan  being  informed,  he 
went  and  made  a  search,  and  found  that  the 
image  of  the  glorious  Sebastian  had  disap- 
peared. 

"  As  it  was  Sunday,  there  were  people  in  the 
church,  who  before  mass  was  celebrated  heard 
these  terrible  words  from  the  priest : 

" '  With  the  profoundest  sorrow  I  have  to  an- 
nounce that  last  night  the  most  horrible  sacri- 
lege was  committed.  Our  patron  saint  San 
Sebastian  has  been  stolen,  and  I  beg  my  be- 
loved flock  to  denounce  to  justice  or  to  me  the 
names  of  the  guilty  parties.' 

"  The  people,  on  hearing  this,  cried  out,  burst 


284  OUR  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  COUSINS. 

into  tears,  and  exclaimed  against  the  heretics, 
who  they  said  were  doubtless  the  robbers. 

"About  10  A.M.  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
city  were  in  the  streets,  weeping  and  lament- 
ing. At  last  an  attempt  was  made  to  discover 
the  hiding-place  of  the  saint,  with  which  object 
about  three  hundred  persons  went  to  the  river 
and  the  neighboring  fields. 

"  About  three  in  the  afternoon  a  man  arrived 
at  full  speed  with  the  information  that  the 
diadem  or  crown  of  the  saint  had  been  found. 
The  man  was  quite  smothered  with  questions, 
and  a  new  army  was  speedily  on  the  march  to 
the  place  indicated,  where  they  found  a  fire 
had  been  kindled.  There  the  pedestal  was 
found,  and  a  bottle  which,  from  the  smell,  had 
evidently  contained  paraffine. 

"At  nightfall  the  people,  excepting  a  few 
who  remained  to  watch  suspected  places,  re- 
turned to  the  city  with  great  rejoicings  for  the 
discovery  of  the  pedestal,  which  they  kissed, 
shedding  abundant  tears,  and  cursing  the  here- 
tics. 

"  That  night  nothing  else  was  spoken  of  but 
the  saint,  and  the  savages  who  had  stolen 
him. 

"  About  eight  o'clock  next  morning  it  was 


POOR  OLD   SAX   SEBASTIAN. 


cried  aloud  in  the  streets  that  the  saint  had  ap- 
peared, half  burnt,  and  buried  in  a  sand-drift, 
at  a  distance  of  some  twenty  cuadras  from  the 
town.  Then  there  was  nobody,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  heretics,  who  refrained  from 
going  to  the  blessed  place.  Men  and  women 
fought  for  the  privilege  of  kissing  the  charred 
lump  of  wood.  Thus  they  arrived  at  the 
church." 

Another  witness,  writing  to  the  Mevista  del 
Sur,  says : 

"You  are  aware  that  Sebastian  is  the  pa- 
tron saint  of  Yunibel,  and  for  his  numerous 
miracles,  numbering  not  less  than  fifteen  or 
twenty  thousand,  rivals  Our  Lady  of  Andacollo. 
Every  year,  on  the  20th  of  January,  mass  is 
sung,  a  sermon  preached,  and  booths  erected. 
On  the  19th,  20th,  and  21st  'the  people  pay 
the  saint  for  the  miracle ; '  payments  have 
amounted  to  the  large  sum  of  $11,000.  This 
year,  however,  they  have  only  reached  $5,600 ; 
the  falling  off  is  due  to  the  prevailing  scarcity. 
People  come  approaching  the  saint  on  their 
knees  a  distance  of  three  or  four  hundred  yards, 
leaving  tracks  of  blood,  and  frequently  faint- 
ing. 

"  Some  one  took  a  notion  to  steal  him ;  yes- 


286  DUE  SOUTH   AMEKICAN   COUSINS. 

terday  a  door  of  the  church  was  found  open, 
and  the  sexton,  making  search,  missed  the  im- 
age of  the  glorious  Sebastian.  It  was  Sunday ; 
some  people  came  to  the  church  and  heard 
from  the  curate  these  terrible  words :  A  most 
horrible  sacrilege  has  been  perpetrated!  Our 
patron  St.  Sebastian  has  been  stolen,  and  I  be- 
seech my  beloved  flock  to  inform  the  courts,  for 
me,  as  to  loJw  may  have  been  the  offenders  ! 

"  Hearing  this  the  people  shouted,  burst  into 
tears,  and  declaimed  against  the  heretics,  who, 
they  said,  had  doubtless  done  it.  By  10  A.M. 
the  inhabitants  of  the  town  were  all  in  the  street 
crying  and  shouting.  An  effort  was  made  to 
find  the  saint,  and  three  hundred  persons  went 
in  search.  About  three  o'clock  a  person  came 
at  full  run,  bringing  word  that  the  crown  had 
been  found.  He  was  overwhelmed  with  ques- 
tions. A  new  crowd  went  to  the  place  where 
the  crown  had  been  discovered  and  found  that 
fire  had  been  burning.  The  pedestal  of  the 
image  was  discovered,  and  an  empty  bottle 
that  had  contained  turpentine.  Night  came 
on,  and  almost  everybody  returned  to  town 
with  great  joy  at  having  found  the  pedestal, 
which  they  kissed,  shedding  tears  and  cursing 
the  heretics.  That  night  nothing  was  talked 


POOR  OLD   SAX   SEBASTIAN.  287 

of  but  the  loss  of  the  saint  and  the  savages 
who  had  stolen  him ;  more  than  one,  it  is  said, 
called  on  the  judge  to  indicate  to  him  the  per- 
sons they  suspected.  About  eight  o'clock  this 
morning  it  was  announced  with  loud  cries 
through  the  streets  that  the  saint  had  been 
found  half  burned  and  buried  in  a  sand-bank 
half  a  mile  from  the  town !  Every  one  then, 
except  the  heretics,  went  out  to  the  sacred 
spot.  Men  and  women  contended  for  a  chance 
to  kiss  the  burnt  block  of  wood.  Thus  they 
reached  the  church." 

The  curate  of  Yumbel  speaks  as  follows  of 
this  affair  in  his  note  to  the  Bishop  of  Con- 
cepcion,  dated  February  3d :  "  With  profound 
SOITOW  I  inform  your  Grace  that  last  night 
there  has  been  perpetrated  the  most  scandal- 
ous and  sacrilegious  robbeiy  in  the  parish 
church.  Thieves  entering  the  church  through 
the  vestry  climbed  to  the  altar  of  our  Father 
St.  Sebastian,  and  bore  away  the  saint  with 
his  pedestal,  weighing  not  less  than  sixty 
pounds.  .  .  .  The  tracks  on  the  altar  cloth 
Avere  evidently  made  by  a  foot  wearing  a  fash- 
ionable boot,  and  this,  coupled  with  the  fact 
that  nothing  was  taken  except  the  saint,  leads 
me  to  believe  this  scandalous  thing  has  been 


288  OUR  SOUTH   AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

done  by  people  of  good  standing.  .  .  .  The 
state  of  my  mind  does  not  permit  me  to  enter 
into  further  details ;  but  to-morrow  I  will  give 
your  Grace  further  facts.  I  simply  inform  you 
of  the  calamity  which  has  imbittered  my  heart 
on  the  very  day  of  my  coming  into  the  curacy. 
"  BALDOMEKO  PKADENAS,  Curate." 

Two  days  afterward  the  bishop  sent  the 
following  in  reply,  dated  February  4th,  Con- 
cepcion :  "  Your  note,  giving  account  of  the 
impious  and  sacrilegious  robbery  of  the  statue 
of  St.  Sebastian,  has  been  received. 

"The  act  is  horrible,  and  the  idea  that  it 
could  be  perpetrated  in  a  Christian  commu- 
nity, leaves  intense  sorrow  in  the  soul.  Im- 
piety, however,  ruling  in  the  miscreants  that 
have  perpetrated  this  crime,  knows  no  limits 
in  its  excessive  perversity.  Not  only  as  the 
bishop  of  the  diocese,  but  also  as  a  citizen  of 
Chile,  I  deplore  this  savage  and  odious  sacri- 
lege which  shames  and  disgraces  my  country. 
Oh  that  justice  may  display  all  its  zeal  and  ac- 
tivity in  discovering  and  punishing  the  evil- 
doers !  I,  for  my  part,  will  do  what  is  possi- 
ble in  my  sphere  of  action,  and  to  that  end 
send  a  judge,  appointed  to  institute  the  appro- 


POOR  OLD   SAN   SEBASTIAN.  289 

priate  investigation  touching  the  fact  and  the 
incidents  connected  with  it.  Do  you,  for  your 
part,  convoke  the  people,  that  they  may  offer, 
in  the  Lord's  temple,  humble  petitions  in  ex- 
tenuation of  the  offense  which  has  been  done 
to  His  Supreme  Majesty.  Repeat  with  the 
people  for  three  days  the  Litanies  of  all  the 
Saints,  with  the  Prayers  of  the  Ritual,  For 
Whatever  Tribulation  ;  expose  for  an  hour  the 
most  Sacred  Host,  and  ask  and  seek,  with  the 
faithful,  mercy  and  pardon  for  this  most  grave 
scandal.  Have  confidence,  and  God  will  re- 
turn for  the  honor  of  His  cause  humbling  the 
wicked.  May  God  keep  you. 

"JOSEPH  HIPPOLYTUS, 

"Bishop  of  Concepcion." 

In  a  note  to  the  bishop  of  February  5th,  the 
curate  gives  the  following  further  details: 
.  .  .  "  The  theft  of  the  statue  of  the  glorious 
martyr  St.  Sebastian  took  place  on  the  night  of 
the  2d  in  the  church  itself.  As  was  to  be  ex- 
pected, the  people  of  Yumbel  were  profoundly 
alarmed,  and  on  the  3d  inst.,  Sunday,  com- 
menced search  for  the  beloved  image.  Fortu- 
nately some  ornaments  of  silver  were  left  on 
the  road.  These  ornaments,  illustrious  sir, 
13 


290          OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

served  to  guide  the  people  in  their  search. 
Divine  Providence  aimed  once  more  thus  to 
defeat  the  hateful  and  cowardly  plans  of  im- 
piety. In  fact  the  people,  in  their  distressful 
anxiety,  followed  the  road  toward  the  south- 
west, and  after  finding  in  the  public  square  a 
silver  bracelet  which  the  saint  wore  on  one  of 
his  arms,  and  in  the  suburbs  his  crown,  dis- 
covered also,  half  a  mile  from  the  town,  the 
pedestal  of  the  image,  the  girdle,  and  a  bottle 
that  contained  a  residuum  of  paraffine.  Two  of 
these  things  had  been  scorched  with  fire.  .  .  . 
The  day  following  the  statue  was  found  with 
one  arm  broken,  and  the  rest  of  the  body 
charred.  It  was  brought  back  by  the  people 
to  the  church,  where  I  received  it  -with  the  re- 
ligious ceremonies  that  seemed  befitting.  The 
occurrence  has  filled  my  heart  with  sadness, 
and  a  religious  people  with  consternation  and 
alarm.  .  .  .  It  is  a  sacrilegious  profana- 
tion of  our  churches,  a  brutal  attack  on  our 
worship,  a  mockery  of  our  beliefs ;  the  work 
of  shameless  impiety  peculiar  to  that  Satanic 
hate  which  the  enemies  of  the  Catholic  Church 
have  to  the  religion  we  profess.  The  authors 
of  this  crime  cannot  be  common  thieves,  but 
must  be  men  of  more  elevated  position,  im- 


POOE  OLD   SAN  SEBASTIAN.  291 

moral,  impious  miscreants,  and  this  explains 
all.  .  .  .  The  image  of  the  saint  was  found 
with  a  rope  round  the  neck,  which  seems  to 
show  that  these  new  iconoclasts  dragged  it, 
even,  on  the  ground,  in  the  sacrilegious  frenzy 
of  their  rage." 


XXI. 

OTJE  GERMAN  COUSINS. 

THERE  are  many  thousands  of  these  indus- 
trious, thrifty  people  in  South  America. 

In  Chile  according  to  census  returns  there 
are  nearly  3,000;  but  that  estimate  does  not 
include  their  children.  As  a  rule,  a  German 
has  a  wife,  as  every  competent  man  ought ;  and 
the  Germans  generally  have  large  families,  so 
that  the  children  born  in  Chile  of  German  pa- 
rents would  largely  outnumber  the  old  stock 
from  "  de  faderland."  There  are  two  principal 
German  colonies  in  Chile,  the  larger  is  in  the 
Province  of  Valdevia.  The  city  of  Valdevia 
is  its  largest  center  of  population  and  com- 
merce. I  was  very  anxious  to  visit  those  Ger- 
man settlements  in  that  province,  and  made 
partial  arrangements  to  have  Brother  Mliller 
accompany  me,  but  found  that  it  would  re- 
quire more  time  than  I  could  possibly  com- 
mand. Brother  Miiller  visits  them  frequently, 
and  is  just  the  man  to  introduce  Christian 

292 


OUR  GERMAN  COUSINS.  293 

ministers  among  those  of  them  who  have  none. 
The  following  is  substantially  his  statement, 
the  result  of  his  frequent  visits  among  them : 

In  Valdevia  there  are  over  2,000  Germans, 
only  about  one-eighth  of  whom  are  Roman  Cath- 
olics. The  other  seven-eighths  are  nominally 
Lutherans.  They  are  a  well-to-do  people  and 
have  good  schools,  but  no  minister,  and  have 
no  special  desire  for  one.  They  are  positively 
opposed  to  religion,  according  to  their  concep- 
tion of  it. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Valdevia  there  are 
about  1,000  more  Germans;  three-fourths  of 
whom  are  Lutherans,  but  not  much  inclined  to 
be  religious.  There  are  only  about  a  dozen 
English-speaking  people  in  Valdevia. 

Las  Ulmos,  five  hours  ride  from  Valdevia, 
contains  about  a  dozen  German  families. 
Three  of  those  families  only  are  Roman  Catho- 
lics, and  they  seem  more  hungry  for  the  Gos- 
pel than  their  Protestant  neighbors. 

There  is,  however,  a  German  school  there, 
in  which  the  Bible  and  Catechism  are  used. 
There  is  no  pastor  to  look  after  these  few 
sheep  in  the  desert. 

La  Union,  about  a  day  from  Valdevia,  on 
horseback  or  cart,  contains  about  700  Germans ; 


294  OUK  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  COUSIXS. 

there  are  about  300  more  within  an  hour  from 
the  town.  These  are  a  very  amiable  people, 
and  ready  to  receive  the  truth,  but  have  no 
minister  to  impart  it. 

Osorno  contains  a  large  German  population, 
about  2,000  in  the  town,  and  500  more  in  the 
neighborhood.  They  have  an  ultra  Lutheran 
minister.  There  are  two  principal  merchants 
there  who  speak  English,  and  who  are  the 
leading  supporters  of  the  church.  Three- 
fourths  of  these  people  are  Protestants.  A 
day's  journey  from  Osorno  brings  us  to  Lak$ 
Llanquihue.  It  takes  about  five  hours  by 
steamer  to  cross  the  lake.  Around  this  lake 
there  are  160  German  families.  Two-thirds  of 
them  are  Protestants ;  they  all  seem  hungry  for 
the  Gospel,  and  greatly  desire  to  have  a  minis- 
ter. "  I  have  meetings  in  their  houses,"  says 
Miiller,  "  and  they  keep  me  singing  and  explain- 
ing the  Word  of  God,  and  praying  with"  them, 
till  one  o'clock  at  night.  They  are  a  very  kind 
people.  It  would  cost  a  minister  nothing,  be- 
yond a  moderate  rate  of  traveling  expenses,  to 
live  among  them.  His  regular  board  any- 
where in  this  region  would  only  be  $10  per 
month,  but  here  in  the  country  he  would  pay 
nothing." 


OUR  GERMAN  COUSINS.  295 

There  are  eight  families  living  south  of  the 
lake  who  have  a  little  church  and  an  old  min- 
ister, Rev.  Mr.  Godfrey,  who  is  also  a  farmer. 
Puerto  Montt,  on  the  coast,  south  of  Valdevia, 
contains  about  1,800  Germans.  They  have  a 
Lutheran  minister,  Rev.  Mr.  Schenk,  who  also 
teaches  a  school.  Ancoot,  a  port  about  four 
hours  of  steamboat  travel  north  of  Puerto 
Montt,  contains  about  a  dozen  German  families. 
The  port  for  Valdevia,  Corral,  contains  also 
about  a  dozen  German  families.  The  large 
majority  of  these  people  are  farmers,  and  well- 
to-do  traders,  and  able  to  support  Gospel 
ministers  and  churches,  if  godly  men  could  be 
sent  to  them  who  could  command  their  con- 
fidence and  do  them  good. 

The  other  German  colony  embraces  two 
towns,  Angol  and  Los  Angule^Sj  containing 
about  500  Germans  each,  besides  many  more 
in  the  surrounding  country.  Mr.  Miiller  has 
not  visited  these,  and  they  have  no  minister  or 
spiritual  guide  of  any  sort.  Besides  these 
colonies  there  are  many  Germans  in  every 
large  town  in  the  republic,  and  the  same  is 
true  of  all  the  republics  of  South  America, 
especially  in  Brazil,  with  fifty  German  colo- 
nies, which  contain  a  German  population  of 


296  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

40,000.  Most  of  the  English  people  of  South 
America  will  live  and  die  in  it,  and  their  chil- 
dren after  them,  but  they  don't  mean  to.  They 
came  to  make  money  and  return  to  England  or 
Scotland  to  enjoy  it.  The  mass  of  them  fail  to 
save  enough  to  enable  them  to  realize  their 
dream  of  home  life ;  and  many  of  those  who 
make  a  fortune  and  return  to  England,  find 
everything  so  changed,  and  they  are  themselves 
so  changed,  that  they  soon  become  dissatisfied 
and  return  to  their  more  congenial  clime  in 
South  America.  But  the  Germans  come  to 
South  America,  just  as  they  go  to  North  Ameri- 
ca, to  stay  and  make  a  permanent  home  for  them- 
selves and  for  their  children,  and  are  becoming, 
and  must  more  and  more  become,  a  potent  homo- 
geneous element  of  South  American  society. 
Their  industry,  economy  and  intelligence,  with 
good  schools  everywhere  for  their  children, 
will  make  them  an  influential  and  powerful 
people  in  all  these  republics.  If  supplied 
with  thoroughly  godly,  evangelical  ministers 
now  in  their  forming  state,  now  while  more 
accessible  than  they  are  ever  likely  to  be  in 
later  years,  a  large  proportion  of  them  can 
be  won  for  Jesus.  They  will  thus  constitute 
a  grand  medium  of  access  to  masses  of  the 


OUR  GERMAN   COUSHSTS.  297 

natives,  and  a  powerful  self-supporting  work- 
ing agency  to  enlighten  and  save  them.  If 
we  can  find  young  German  ministers  in 
America,  suited  to  this  great  pioneer  work, 
the  whole  cost  would  not  exceed  $500  each, 
to  pay  passage  and  initiate  them  in  their  work. 
I  would  agree  to  put  in  a  dozen  of  the  right 
men  at  that  cost.  It  is  an  insult  to  these 
people  to  offer  by  charity  to  supply  any  of 
their  wants.  They  are  able  to  provide  for 
themselves  so  far  as  funds  are  concerned,  but 
they  have  not  the  knowledge  of  the  men  they 
need,  nor  the  desire  for  them  sufficiently  strong 
to  lead  them  to  seek  shepherds.  They  are 
wandering  sheep  far  out  in  the  desert,  and 
need  true  self-denying  shepherds,  led  by  the 
great  good  Shepherd  Himself,  to  go  out  and 
seek  them.  If  they  should  go  with  plenty  of 
missionary  money  and  educate  the  people  into 
the  habit  of  receiving  it,  and  of  having  very 
much  done  for  them  that  they  ought  to  (Jo  for 
themselves,  some  good  would  result,  no  doubt, 
but  a  much  higher  class  of  agency  can  be  en- 
listed, and  a  much  greater  work  accomplished 
on  the  self-supporting  principle  from  the  start, 
except  a  small  amount  for  the  transportation 
of  the  ministers  to  these  needy  fields, 
13* 


XXII. 

VALPAEAISO  SEAMEN'S  EVANGELICAL  SOCIETY. 

ON  my  way  south,  Rev.  Dr.  Trumbull  called 
my  attention  to  the  great  need  of  a  seamen's 
preacher  for  this  port.  His  church  and  others 
had  always  been  open  for  all  classes,  yet  but 
few  sailors  attended.  Twice  for  a  short  time, 
many  years  ago,  they  had  a  preacher  for  sea- 
men who  did  a  good  work,  but  did  not  remain 
to  carry  it  on.  Rev.  Mr.  Lloyd,  a  couple  of 
years  ago,  fitted  up  a  hulk  as  a  Bethel  for  sea- 
men, and  held  two  services  in  it,  when  a  gale 
sent  the  hulk  to  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and 
seven  persons  living  aboard  of  it  were  drowned. 

Mr.  Miiller,  the  Bible  agent,  when  able  to 
command  time  from  his  extensive  agency 
through  the  country,  visits  the  shipping,  talks 
to  the  seamen,  and  sells  them  books. 

Two  laymen  also  go  occasionally  and  hold 
little  sen-ices  in  the  forecastle  of  some  of  the 
ships,  but  we  greatly  need  a  man  who  knows 

298 


VALPARAISO  SEAMEN'S  SOCIETY.         299 

how  to  adapt  himself  to  sailors  to  come  and 
devote  his  time  to  them.  "Now,"  continued 
the  Doctor,  "if  you  will  open  a  subscription 
for  funds  to  bring  out  a  good  man  to  labor 
among  the  seamen  of  this  port  I  will  head  the 
list" 

I  am  sure,  from  what  he  said,  that  he  meant 
to  give  us  a  hundred  dollars. 

I  thanked  him  for  his  liberal  proposal,  but 
replied,  "Doctor,  the  seamen  are  neither  pau- 
pers nor  heathens.  If  they  want  a  preacher, 
they  are  able  to  pay  all  the  expenses  involved, 
both  in  his  transit  and  support. 

"  The  way  to  interest  seamen  really  in  such 
an  enterprise,  and  have  a  thing  that  will  live,  is 
to  have  it  originate  with  them,  and  be  run  by 
them.  All  we  want  on  the  land  is  a  resident, 
trustworthy  committee,  consisting  simply  of  a 
president,  secretary,  and  a  safe  deposit  for  their 
funds,  as  an  anchorage  for  sea-faring  workers 
while  in  port."  By  this  time  I  was  rather  com- 
mitted to  a  test  of  the  principle  of  utilizing 
the  indigenous  resources  available  in  the  fleet 

O 

of  Valparaiso. 

On  Friday  P.M.,  March  15,  Mr.  James  Blake, 
an  earnest  Wesleyan,  but  a  member  and  worker 
in  Dr.  TruinbulTs  church,  got  a  boat  and  put 


300  OUK  SOUTH  AMEKICAN   COUSINS. 

me  aboard  the  ship  Santiago,  Captain  Mills, 
but,  under  a  press  of  business,  he  immediately 
returned  to  the  shore,  so  I  was  in  the  fleet,  but 
knew  nobody  in  it. 

On  inquiry  I  learned  that  the  master  of  the 
vessel  was  absent.  The  first  mate,  however, 
said  that  I  was  welcome  to  hold  a  service  if  I 
desired  to  do  so. 

He  called  the  men  aft,  and  I  preached  to 
them  in  the  cabin,  but  the  captain  not  being 
aboard,  I  did  not  present  my  subscription-book. 
It  was  now  getting  dark,  and  they  having  but 
recently  arrived  in  port,  could  give  me  no  in- 
formation in  regard  to  other  ships.  I  wanted 
to  make  a  sure  strike  at  the  start,  as  much  de- 
pends on  a  good  beginning.  It  is  said  "  a  bad 
beginning  makes  a  good  end."  That  is  true  in 
some  cases,  but  a  good  beginning,  well  con- 
ducted, is  better.  The  mate  of  the  Santiago  had 
the  boat  lowered  subject  to  my  order. 

I  said,  "  Men,  pull  me  to  the  ship  Eden 
Home? 

"  Ay,  ay,  sir,"  and  the  hardy  fellows  very 
soon  sent  me  up  the  ladder  of  the  Eden 
Home.  I  introduced  myself  to  the  captain, 
and  he  introduced  me  to  his  wife.  The  cap- 
tain consented  that  I  should  preach  after  tea  to 


VALPARAISO  SEAMEN'S  SOCIETY.         301 

his  men  on  the  deck, — a  quiet,  kind  gentleman, 
Captain  J.  H.  Randolph.  On  their  invitation 
I  took  tea  with  them.  Meanwhile  Captain 
W.  T.  Ditchburn,  of  the  bark  Egremont 
Castle,  and  his  wife,  came  aboard  on  a  visit, 
and  were  delighted  to  hear  of  the  contem- 
plated service,  and  suggested  that  it  should  be 
held  in  the  cabin,  where  "we  can  have  good 
seats  and  good  lights."  The  master  at  once 
cheerfully  consented.  Tea  over,  the  men  were 
invited,  and  filled  the  cabin.  We  had  some 
hearty  singing,  and  I  preached  to  the  small, 
but  very  attentive  company.  Afterward  I  told 
them  what  I  proposed  to  do,  and  presented 
my  subscription-book.  Times  hard,  freights 
veiy  low,  and  no  better  prospect  ahead,  but 
the  captain  headed  the  list  with  five  dollars 
and  the  crew  added  fifteen — twenty  dollars. 

Captain  Ditchbum  invited  me  to  preach 
aboard  his  ship  the  following  evening,  which 
I  did,  and  he  and  his  men  subscribed  twenty- 
six  dollars. 

On  week-days  the  sailors  are  at  work,  so 
that  we  cannot,  ordinarily,  have  a  service  for 
them  till  after  they  get  their  supper,  so  my 
hope  of  success  was  in  the  services  of  the  en- 
suing Sabbath,  March  17th. 

CJ  * 


302  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

Captain  Ditchburn  met  me  with  his  boat  at 
the  pier  Sabbath  morning.  The  wind  blew 
heavily,  and  rendered  it  very  difficult  to  get 
about  in  the  shipping.  The  gale  however, 
blew  from  the  land,  otherwise  the  sea  would 
have  been  too  rough  for  small  boats.  It  was 
a  dark  morning  for  my  enterprise,  and  I  was 
strongly  tempted  to  give  it  up. 

We  boarded  the  bark  Mary  Moore,  Cap- 
tain W.  A.  Nelson.  He  had  only  a  few 
men  aboard  but  received  me  very  kindly,  and 
I  spoke  to  him  and  his  men  in  the  name  of  the 
Lord.  At  the  close,  I  could  but  tell  them 
what  I  had  thought  of  trying  to  do,  and  they 
responded  cheerfully,  and  subscribed  nineteen 
dollars. 

Captain  Nelson  then  ordered  his  boat  to  take 
me  to  the  ship  Coronilla,  Captain  AVm.  Davis. 
He  had  but  a  small  crew ;  but  we  had  a  good  ser- 
vice, and  they  subscribed  nineteen  dollars.  By 
invitation  of  Captain  Davis  I  dined  with  him, 
and  then  he  sent  me  to  the  bark  Santiago, 
Captain  Wm.  Moffat,  and,  after  preaching,  he 
and  his  crew  subscribed  thirty-five  dollars. 

I  preached  next  on  board  the  ship  Valpa- 
raiso, Captain  Alexander  Mills,  and  they  sub- 
scribed twenty-four  dollars. 


VALPAEAISO  SEAMEN'S  SOCIETY.         303 

I  had  an  appointment  to  preach  for  Dr. 
Trumbull  at  half-past  seven  that  evening,  and 
my  dear  friends,  Captains  Moffat  and  Mills, 
accompanied  me  to  the  shore.  The  spray 
swept  over  the  boat's  company,  and  had  not 
Captain  Mills  wrapped  me  up  in  a  large  oil- 
cloth cloak,  I  should  have  been  in  a  bad  pickle 
for  an  appearance  in  the  Union  Church.  It 
was  so  rough  my  friends  simply  put  me  safely 
on  land,  and  at  once  returned  to  their  ships. 
We  had  a  fine  audience  in  the  evening,  and 
a  gracious  illumination  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

On  Monday  evening  I  conducted  a  service 
on  board  the  B.  JBalmore,  Captain  John  Davis, 
and  twenty  dollars  were  subscribed. 

On  Tuesday  P.M.,  we  held  a  meeting  of  the 
captains,  whose  interest  we  had  enlisted  in  the 
work,  in  the  upper  room  of  Williamson,  Bal- 
four  &  Co.'s  store.  Dr.  Trumbull  presided. 
After  due  deliberation  they  all  agreed  that  my 
plan  was  perfectly  plain  and  practicable,  and 
unanimously  adopted  the  articles  of  agree- 
ment I  had  submitted  constituting  THE  VAL- 
PARAISO SEAMEN'S  EVANGELICAL  SOCIETY.  They 
elected  Rev.  Dr.  Trumbull  President,  and  Mr. 
James  Bloke  Secretary,  and  voted  that  the 
funds  should  be  deposited  with  the  house  of 


304  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

Williamson,  Balfour  &  Co."  Captain  Ditch- 
burn  and  Captain  Mills  were  appointed  collec- 
tors while  they  should  remain  in  port,  which 
office  they  cheerfully  consented  to  fill. 

The  meeting  voted  an  appropriation  of  funds 
for  the  passage  of  the  minister  whom  I  shall 
select  and  send,  and  that  till  further  order,  he 
shall  be  paid  one  hundred  dollars  per  month 
for  his  support.  They  wished  to  give  more, 
but  I  preferred  to  have  all  my  men  commence 
as  low  in  the  scale  as  one  hundred  dollars  per 
month.  There  are  over  twelve  hundred  arri- 
vals of  ships  in  that  port  annually.  If  only 
ten  per  month  will  pay  twelve  dollars  each, 
they  would  sustain  this  simple  economical  plan 
of  work.  We  don't  propose  to  buy  any  hulks, 
nor  build  anything  on  the  land.  Every  ship 
under  this  kind  of  ministry  becomes  a  Betlid : 
every  ship's  company  a  congregation  within 
hailing  distance,  which,  at  any  hour  between 
meals  on  Sabbath,  or  on  any  evening  in  the  week, 
can,  in  one  minute  and  a  half,  be  assembled  for 
an  informal  religious  service.  I  bade  adieu  to 
my  loving,  earnest  co-workers — the  captains  and 
men  who  are  pioneers  in  this  work  of  God  for 
the  seamen  of  those  waters — and  on  Wednesday 
the  20th  of  March,  1878,  I  set  my  face  home- 


VALPAKAISO  SEAMEN'S  SOCIETY.         305 

ward  to  find  the  men  whom  God  has  selected 
for  my  various  fields  in  South  America  —  a 
dozen  men  and  about  half  a  dozen  ladies. 

P.  S.  —  I  may  add  that  the  Lord  had  them  in 
readiness  on  my  arrival,  and  the  man  for  Valpa- 
raiso turns  out  to  be  a  young  man  combining 
rare  scholarship  with  all  other  qualities  suited 
for  that  work  —  a  classical  and  theological  gradu- 
ate of  the  Boston  University  —  Rev.  Ira  H.  La 
Fetra,  B.A.,  B.D.  The  idea  has  obtained 
rather  extensively  that  an  old  condemned  hulk 
in  a  harbor,  or  some  old  barn  in  an  obscure 
alley  of  a  port  city  is  the  place  in  which  the 
men  of  the  sea,  the  bravest  men  in  the  world, 
"  ought  to  worship."  I  have  in  mind  now  an 
old  shell  of  a  frame  and  board  house,  better 
suited  for  a  stable,  bearing  on  the  unplaned 
surface  of  one  of  its  boards,  in  large  letters, 
this  appeal  to  the  affectionate  consideration  of 
the  men  of  the  sea  —  "  Sailors,  this  house  is  for 


Many  seem  to  think  also,  that  the  best 
preacher  for  seamen  is  some  old  blunderbuss 
no  longer  fit  for  use  on  the  land  ;  especially  if 
in  his  early  life  he  had  been  before  the  mast  a 
voyage  or  two.  I  would  not  at  all  underrate  the 
good  accomplished  in  the  past  or  that  may  be 


306  OTJK  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

done  in  the  future  by  any  variety  of  means  or 
agency;  nor  would  I  fora  moment  discourage  the 
use  of  hulks  or  barns  as  places  of  worship,  alike 
for  seamen  or  landsmen,  nor  the  employment 
of  any  suitable  agency,  however  humble  ;  but 
I  do  emphatically  enter  my  protest  against 
any  invidious  distinction  between  ladies  and 
gentlemen  of  the  land,  and  gentlemen  of  the 
sea  and  their  families.  On  the  water,  the 
home  of  the  sailor  aboard  a  modern  clipper 
ship  is  equal,  in  the  style  and  finish  of  its 
architecture,  to  anything  on  the  land ;  no  bet- 
ter place  afloat  for  a  seamen's  Bethel. 

When  the  Lord  Jesus  dwelt  visibly  among 
men  He  exhibited  a  special  interest  in  seamen. 
He  explored  the  globe  to  find  a  dozen  men  on 
whom  He  could  confer  the  exclusive  responsi- 
bility and  honor  of  apostleship  in  His  kingdom, 
and  one-third  of  His  selection  were  fishermen- 
sailors;  and  they  became  the  most  distin- 
guished of  His  apostles.  Every  sailor  ought 
to  take  to  this  old  friend  of  the  seamen,  sign 
His  "articles,"  and  be  loyal  to  Him  to  the 
death.  His  grand  work  of  bringing  all  nations 
into  His  kingdom  challenges,  and  should  enlist 
the  heroic  adventurous  spirit  of  every  sailor. 
The  men  of  the  sea  truly  converted  to  God, 


VALPAEAISO  SEAMEN'S  SOCIETY.         307 

and  purified  from  sin,  would  constitute  a  grand 
body  of  missionary  agency  which,  led  by  the 
Holy  Spirit,  would  soon  carry  the  Gospel  tes- 
timony "  to  all  nations." 

In  our  great  work  among  seamen  in  Calcut- 
ta, every  ship's  company  saved  by  the  Lord 
Jesus  are  at  once  organized  into  a  church  on 
their  own  ship,  just  as  St.  Paul  organized 
churches  in  the  dwellings  of  the  people — the 
church  in  the  house  of  Stephanus,  in  the  house 
of  Gains,  in  the  house  of  Aquila  and  Priscilla, 
of  the  Elect  Lady,  and  others.  We  have  about 
fifty  such  organizations  on  that  number  of 
ships  that  voyage  to  and  from  Calcutta.  On 
every  departure  their  preacher  writes  to  minis- 
ters residing  in  the  port  to  which  such  ships 
are  bound,  and  bespeaks  their  attention  and 
interest  in  the  floating  church  on  its  arrival. 

Thus  a  year  ago,  when  I  was  laboring  in  San 
Francisco,  I  received  a  letter  from  Rev.  Dr. 
Thobum,  in  Calcutta,  saying  that  the  ship 
Knifjlit  Commander,  from  Calcutta,  with  twen- 
ty-two converted  seamen  aboard,  would  be 
due  in  San  Francisco  in  June,  etc.  Such  or- 
ganized bands  of  godly  seamen  escape  the 
landsharks,  and  receive  a  welcome  by  Christian 
ladies  and  gentlemen  in  every  port,  and  mix 


308  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

freely  in  their  assemblies  in  blessed  fraternity. 
It  is  not  money  as  a  charity  that  the  sailor 
needs  nor  desires.  He  earns  his  money  by  the 
sweat  of  his  brow,  and  can  pay  his  own  way, 
and  is  willing  to  do  it,  and  do  as  much  to  help 
the  needy  according  to  his  means  as  any  class  of 
landsmen ;  but  the  sailor  needs  the  same  kind 
of  sympathy  and  wise  winning  attentions  of  in- 
telligent Christian  agency  which  is  necessary  to 
win  any  other  class  of  persons  to  Jesus ;  and 
the  general  treatment,  according  to  character, 
to  which  landsmen,  by  the  rules  of  good  so- 
ciety are  entitled. 


XXIII. 

GLIMPSES   OF   MY   HOMEWAKD   VOYAGE. 

I  BADE  adieu  to  dear  friends  in  Valparaiso 
011  Wednesday  morning,  the  20th  of  March, 
and  embarked  on  the  steamship  Itata.  One 
day's  steaming  brought  me  to  Coquimbo,  where 
I  opened  a  field  for  a  minister,  as  before  stated. 
On  the  night  of  the  24th  I  embarked  on  the 
P.  S.  N.  Co.'s  steamer  Lontue,  1,848  tons  reg- 
ister. She  has  five  powerful  steam  "  winches," 
two  on  each  side,  fore  and  aft,  and  the  an- 
chor winch,  all  worked  from  the  steam  boiler 
of  the  ship.  The  four  freight-lifting  winches 
can  all  be  worked  at  once.  They  sling  twelve 
bags  of  flour  every  time,  containing  2,400 
pounds,  and  anything  above  that  weight  up 
to  ten  tons,  so  that  loading  and  discharging  is 
executed  with  great  dispatch. 

Now  let  us  take  a  view  of  the  ship.  The 
hold  is  full  of  heavy  freight — flour,  sugar,  salt, 
and  all  sorts  of  merchandise  and  timber.  The 

309 


310  DUE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

main  deck  is  packed  with  live  stock.  Near 
the  forecastle  on  the  "  starboard "  side  is  a 
flock  of  sheep.  From  the  space  occupied  by 
the  sheep  back  to  the  stern  of  the  ship  there 
are  130  mules,  wedged  in  as  closely  as  they 
can  stand.  On  the  "larboard"  side  are  30 
or  40  mules  and  about  100  bullocks.  On 
the  upper  deck,  aft,  is  the  dining  saloon ; 
and  forward  of  the  smokestack,  on  each  side, 
are  the  cabins  of  the  first-class  passengers,  and 
all  the  rest  of  the  deck  is  occupied  by  the 
coast  traders — consisting  of  half  a  dozen  pro- 
vision merchants,  male  and  female,  with  a 
large  following  of  clerks  and  servants.  Their 
stores  consist  of  cheese,  butter  and  bacon, 
watermelons,  squashes  and  pumpkins,  turnips, 
potatoes  and  onions,  and  such  onions  as  never 
were  seen  anywhere  else,  except  possibly  in 
California;  apples,  pears,  and  grapes;  some 
also  have  boots,  shoes,  and  dry  goods.  At 
every  port  their  customers  come  aboard  to  buy, 
and  for  hours  the  deck  is  one  great  bazar,  and 
many  boats  are  loaded  with  those  Chilean  pro- 
ducts. The  traders  are  generally  very  quiet, 
glad  to  see  their  old  customers,  and  conduct 
themselves  very  creditably,  and  are  a  very  use- 
ful class  of  people.  They  pay  large  freight 


GLIMPSES   OF  MY  HOMEWARD  VOYAGE.      311 

bills  to  the  steamship  companies,  and  supply 
tens  of  thousands  of  people  in  the  dry  ports  of 
Bolivia  and  Peru  with  the  necessaries  and  the 
luxuries  of  life.  The  company  has  recently 
passed  an  order,  for  the  safety  of  their  ships, 
to  clear  the  upper  deck,  and  confine  the  traders 
to  the  main  deck.  The  steamship  Tacna  a 
few  months  ago  left  Valparaiso  with  about  a 
hundred  passengers  and  a  full  freight,  and 
when  but  a  few  miles  out,  there  being  a  heavy 
swell,  her  top  load  so  far  exceeded  her  ballast 
that  she  rolled  over  and  sank.  She  had  on 
her  upper  deck,  thirty-three  thousand  water- 
melons and  a  freight  of  pumpkins,  and  all 
else  in  proportion.  Only  three  persons  of  the 
whole  ship's  company  were  rescued. 

This  order  to  clear  the  upper  deck  was  to 
take  effect  on  the  first  day  of  April.  On  that 
day  the  traders  on  our  upper  deck  having 
nearly  sold  out  their  stock  were  removed,  and 
crowded  along  the  outside  and  rear  of  the 
dining-room.  It  looked  like  a  prompt  execu- 
tion of  the  order,  but  the  fact  is  the  removal 
of  the  traders  was  to  make  room  for  beef  cat- 
tle and  bulls  for  baiting  in  Callao.  Two 
hundred  and  fifty  bullocks  and  bulls  were 
hauled  in  by  the  horns  at  a  single  port,  and 


312  CUE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

when  there  was  not  space  on  the  main  deck 
into  which  to  shove  another  one  edgewise,  a 
hundred  of  them  were  slung  up  and  landed 
on  the  upper  deck  to  take  their  place  with 
the  first-class  passengers,  and  I  must  say  to 
their  credit  that  they  behaved  themselves 
well. 

We  have  been  looking  at  the  main  and  up- 
per decks,  but  still  higher  we  ascend  to  the 
hurricane  deck.  Here  we  have  the  highest  seats 
in  the  synagogue,  for  such  as  are  inclined  to 
sit  on  the  deck,  or  on  a  box  or  bundle.  This 
deck,  save  "  the  bridge  "  of  the  officer  on  watch, 
is  from  stem  to  stern  crowded  with  the  deck 
passengers. 

At  one  port  one  hundred  and  thirty  came 
aboard  in  one  gang.  They  were  "  miners  on  a 
rush  for  new  diggings,"  a  thousand  miles  up  the 
coast  from  where  they  embarked.  Ninety  tick- 
ets had  been  issued  for  eighty  men  and  ten 
of  their  wives,  but  it  was  found  that  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  were  in  the  crowd.  The  first 
mate,  a  tall  determined  New  Yorker,  is  ferreting 
out  "  the  stowaways."  They  are  all  round  him, 
and  all  talking  at  once,  and  swinging  their 
arms  about  him,  but  he  never  flinches  for  a 
moment,  and  now  he  marches  thirty  aft  in  spite 


GLIMPSES   OF   MY   HOMEWARD   VOYAGE.     313 

of  all  their  remonstrances  and  sends  them 
ashore. 

A  difficult  task,  executed  with  great  tact. 
Not  a  blow  was  struck,  from  either  side.  If  one 
had  been  struck  no  one  could  have  counted  the 
number  that  would  have  followed,  for  they 
were  all  at  the  white  heat  of  unreasoning 
passionate  excitement.  Next  day  ten  more 
stowaways  were  detected  and  sent  ashore. 

The  remaining  crowd  were  rather  sulky,  till 
the  New  Yorker  set  them  to  remove  a  few 
cords  of  cabbage  from  one  part  of  the  "upper 
deck  "  to  another.  He  thus  won  their  confi- 
dence, and  with  something  to  do,  the  spell  was 
broken,  and  from  this  time  they  were  the  jolli- 
est  lot  on  the  ship. 

I  spent  a  few  days  of  successful  toil  in  Callao 
and  on  the  13th  of  April  took  passage  for 
Panama,  with  our  old  American  friend  Capt. 
Hall,  the  Commodore  of  the  P.  S.  N.  Co.'s  fleet. 
In  Panama  I  was  well  entertained  at  the 
Grand  Hotel  at  a  cost  of  three  dollars  per  day. 
Spent  one  day  in  Aspinwall  and  got  a  subscrip- 
tion of  $56,  payable  monthly,  for  the  support 
of  a  minister  to  labor  in  that  needy  town.  I 
left  the  subscription  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  Peter 
Austin,  who  wrote  me  by  the  following  mail 


314  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN   COUSINS. 

that  the  subscription  had  grown  to  $86  per 
month,  and  that  he  expected  further  success, 
so  that  I  shall  D.  V.  send  a  minister  of  the 
Gospel  next  September  to  labor  there. 

Mr,  Mosely,  the  P.  M.  S.  S.  Company's 
agent,  and  manager  of  the  Panama  Railroad, 
kindly  gave  me  a  passage  first-class  thence  to 
NCAV  York  at  half  fare.  I  did  not  ask  nor  ex- 
pect such  a  favor,  but  was  thankful,  though 
for  five  nights  I  encroached  on  the  reserve 
space  of  the  steerage  passengers,  and  slept  on  a 
pile  of  sails  near  the  fore  peak  where  I  got  the 
full  force  of  the  breeze.  My  whole  fare  home, 
first-class,  cost  a  little  less  than  my  outward 
passage  in  the  steerage.  Arrived  in  Xew  York 
on  the  third  day  of  May,  six  months  and  six- 
teen days  from  the  date  of  my  departure  for 
South  America,  and  found  a  joyous  welcome 
awaiting  me  at  the  home  of  my  dear  brother 
Chauncey  and  sister  Shaffer.  During  my  brief 
absence,  by  the  miraculous  mercy  of  God,  I 
traveled  about  11,000  miles,  and  opened  the 
twelve  centers  of  educational  and  evangelizing 
work  described  in  these  pages,  to  which  I  am 
appointing  eighteen  earnest  workers,  twelve 
men  and  six  ladies.  On  my  visit  to  the  Bos- 
ton University,  a  few  days  before  my  departure, 


GLIMPSES   OF  MY  HOMEWARD   VOYAGE.     315 

I  requested  Alexander  P.  Stowellj  one  of  the 
graduating  students,  to  act  as  my  recruiting 
sergeant  for  the  enlistment  of  first  -  class 
workers  for  South  America,  During  the  first 
week  after  my  arrival,  Prof.  Stowell  sent 
me  the  names  of  eight  candidates  who  were 
ready  for  orders.  I  felt  a  desire  that,  in  addition 
to  all  other  qualifications  for  their  work,  they 
should  be  singers  and  teachers  of  vocal  music. 
It  turns  out  that  they  all,  in  that,  as  in  every- 
thing else,  are  just  the  men  whom  God  has 
selected  for  this  most  delicate  and  difficult 
work.  The  ladies  too,  are  well  educated,  ex- 
perienced teachers  in  all  desired  branches  of 
education,  including  instrumental  music. 

I  said  to  one  of  our  elect  ladies,  "Are  you 
willing  to  go  to  Panama,  and  teach  school  for 
the  Jamaica  people  ? " 

"  Yes,  Bro.  T ,  I  will  go  anywhere." 

They  are  a  people  despised  by  some  white 
folks,  who  derisively  call  them  "Jamaica  nig- 
gers." 

"  Will  you  share  their  reproach,  and  teach 
their  children  ? " 

"  Certainly  I  will,  if  you  decide  to  send  me 
there." 

I  added,   "But,  my  dear  sister,  it  has  the 


316  OUK  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  COUSINS. 

reputation  of  being  a  very  sickly  place.  In 
the  construction  of  the  Panama  Railroad  'tis 
said  that  three  thousand  workmen  died  in 
making  the  first  seven  miles  of  the  road. 

"In  attempting  to  drive  piles  to  secure  a 
foundation  for  the  road  they  dropped  in  a 
shipload  before  they  found  occasion  to  use 
the  hammer  of  the  pile-driver.  Each  pile  as  it 
was  let  go  slipped  through  out  of  sight ;  they 
could  scarcely  see  the  place  where  it  went 
through,  so  I  don't  know  how  many  mission- 
aries may  have  to  be  dropped  in  there  in  pre- 
paring the  way  of  the  Lord.  Can  you  risk 
your  life  in  such  a  place  ? " 

"  Yes,  Bro.  T I  am  not  afraid ;  I  will  go 

to  Aspinwall,  or  Panama,  or  to  any  place  to 
which  you  may  assign  me." 

I  arranged  to  have  her  accompany  Prof. 
Wright  to  a  most  healthy  climate  in  Chile. 

Miss  L.  H.  W.,  the  young  lady  who  accom- 
panies her,  is  also  a  highly  educated  accom- 
plished lady,  and  daughter  of  one  of  our  minis- 
ters. I  wrote  her  explaining  that  in  our  pov- 
erty of  financial  resource,  my  workers  would 
have  to  go  as  steerage  passengers  as  far  at  least 
as  Callao,  a  distance  of  three  thousand  five 
hundred  miles,  and  in  answer  received  the  fol- 


GLIMPSES   OF   MY  HOMEWARD   VOYAGE.     317 

lowing  letter  from  her,  which  I  take  the  lib- 
erty of  inserting  as  an  illustrative  specimen  of 
the  spirit  of  the  workers  God  has  given  me  for 
His  South  American  mission : 

"  I  am  very  glad  that  Jesus  is  so  kind, 

for  I  am  very  strengthless.  He  will  never 
break  the  bruised  reed.  He  surrounds  my  life 
with  His  love  as  with  a  mantle.  He  fills  my 
heart  with  His  abiding  presence.  I  have  con- 
sciously given  myself  to  Him,  and  am  con- 
sciously accepted  of  Him.  In  all  my  experi- 
ence He  has  never  allowed  anything  to  come 
upon  me  more  than  I  could  bear,  but  sometimes 
all  that  I  can  bear.  He  knows  how  to  adjust 
everything  so  nicely.  I  go  forward  to  my  seed- 
sowing  work  without  a  shadow  of  fear  in  my 
heart.  Doth  not  perfect  love  cast  out  fear? 
Does  this  seem  like  boasting  ?  I  do  not  mean 
it  so. 

"  God  is  very  great,  I  am  very  small.  In  spite 
of  my  frailty  it  is  easy  for  Him  to  save  and 
keep  me.  I  dare  not  go  one  step  alone,  but 
with  Him  at  my  side  and  my  hand  clasped  in 
His  why  need  I  fear  ?  It  is  blessed  to  trust. 

"My  box  leaves  to-day  for  New  York,  directed 
as  you  requested.  I  shall  certainly  hope  to  see 
you  when  I  arrive  there.  I  do  not  think  that 


318  OUR  SOUTH  AMERICAN  COUSINS. 

God  chides  me  because  my  heart  aches  so,  and 
the  tears  come  at  thoughts  of  leaving  every 
friend.  It  only  shows  that  I  love  them  well, 
and  yet  I  love  Him  more.  Why  should  I  fear 
hardships  ?  My  Jesus  had  not  where  to  lay 
His  head.  I  have  always  fared  better  than 
that.  He  became  poor,  and  I  through  His 
poverty  became  rich  ;  He  wandered  foot-sore 
and  weary,  with  no  resting-place,  and  through 
those  wanderings  millions  have  found  rest. 
Do  you  suppose  that  He  is  sorry  now  as  He 
sits  by  His  Father  and  sees  throng  after  throng 
of  white-robed  ones  kneel  before  Him  ?  Is  He 
sorry  that  He  knew  what  it  was  to  be  poor 
and  hungry  and  tired  and  misunderstood  and 
mocked  and  crucified  ?  He  groaned  beneath  a 
weight  of  sin  that  I  might  go  sinless  and  free. 
He  had  no  home  in  order  that  I  might  have  a 
shining  mansion.  It  seems  to  me  that  if  I  had 
ten  thousand  lives  they  would  be  none  too 
many  to  consecrate  to  His  service.  I  do  not 
say  this  to  boast.  It  comes  from  a  full  heart. 
'  My  highest  place  is  lying  low  at  my  Eedeem- 
er'sfeet.'" 

THE   END. 


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